Bullet 212 custom cargo carrier

[Mastrblastr]

Built a folding custom cargo carrier for my TT that has a unique purpose. I have an aluminum tub walking beam axle trailer that I pull behind my atv that I want to take with me when we go off the grid camping, which is pretty much the only kind of camping I do! Built this carrier specifically to fit my walking beam trailer which is why it is the length it is. Designed a pivot system that also uses bolts instead of pins to hold it in the down or upright positions. Is rock solid in either position! Not gonna bounce around back there at all. Still have to clean up everything and paint it all, but very happy with how it turned out.

https://img.techpowerup.org/200407/83a56561-10ad-435b-a102-ccb709f7dc8b.jpg

https://img.techpowerup.org/200407/b5044cde-ee86-4b29-9e1d-5fbfbf3416d5.jpg

https://img.techpowerup.org/200407/ef6058fc-964f-4989-8687-424371cd5fae.jpg

https://img.techpowerup.org/200407/3e39d840-01b9-4b6b-aa05-48af4a449844.jpg

[flybouy]

First off very nice looking work but....... the bumper is very thin metal. Anything placed on that will "bounce around" and have the potential to eventually Crack and split the metal like a can opener. Spare tire carriers on bumpers place the load on top of the bumper, you have a lever force that will greatly increase the applied force on that bumper.

[cavediver]

Very nice work. I have a Bullet 26 RBRP that I am building a rear rack for. I believe that I'll change the pivot to the one that you built. If you don't mind. Have you considered using shoulder bolts for the pivot?

[Mastrblastr]

Flybouy, the metal is thin, but it is a solid HSS bumper, not the welded together one you sometimes see on TT’s. I made my brackets wrap around the bumper and are welded to the back as well as the top to try to limit any tearing. Also, having it bolted and not pinned will keep any slamming action that you see when guys have those carriers in a hitch tube mounted on the bumper. Also, the pivots are mounted to the bumper in 2 spots closer to where the bumper welds to the frame and not in the center of the bumper where it is it’s weakest. If it starts to tear, I’ll chop the whole bumper off and weld on a heavier tube.

Cavediver, you go ahead and use whatever you see there that you figure will work for you. That’s the great thing with these forums! Getting ideas and help from other members! Shoulder bolt will work for the pivot as it is a little nicer looking than a common bolt so I might go that route. My walking beam trailer is about 300lbs so I figure if I take the tires off while transporting it, it should be around 200lbs.
https://img.techpowerup.org/200407/d0a591d9-80e3-4ece-8d7d-07106d039520.jpg

[hornet28]

Nice job. I know I'm being picky but. Wouldn't it have been a bit more able to hold the weight if the expanded metal went to the inner edge of the angle rather than just over the outer edge? Also to have the middle angle iron support turned so it was a V giving a wider area of support

[Mastrblastr]

The middle support is a 2 X 2 HSS, not an angle iron as it is what I had in the yard when I built this. The expanded metal has no structural strength so it doesn’t really matter where it is welded in. Too be honest, I didn’t even need it in there for what it was designed for, but I figured I might as well put some in there in case I want to carry something else.

[Ken / Claudia]

I highly suggest that you load up and drive on the highway while you video the rack/load or have someone follow you a few miles and report on the bounce. It hopefully does not bounce independently of the bumper. Until you watch it you will never know.

[Mastrblastr]

Ken, that’s a great idea. Once I get everything finished I will get my wife to follow or put my GoPro back there so I can check it out. Thanks.

[notanlines]

I'm very wary of this as a whole (although, very nice work). Along with the other suggestions, I would be happier if you also welded a 1/4 inch steel plate on top where the bumper is attached to the frame. Remember that 200# is a lot of torque/tension/leverage on that bumper.

[flybouy]

One could climb up on it and start jumping. Keep that up for a couple of hours and see if anything gives. The rear of any towed trailer is the most affected area from road vibrations, potholes, etc. The fact that the load may be "strapped down tight" only partially mitigates the affect.

[Mastrblastr]

Thanks for the advice guys. It is appreciated. Like I said before, if it starts to tear, I will cut it off and weld on a heavier HSS tube. Another way that I can reduce the weight is to remove the entire walking beam axle on either side as it is only one bolt holding it on. Will drastically reduce the weight of the atv trailer.

Flybuoy, you are exactly correct with your "strapped down tight" comment. Ive seen a ton of those bike racks mounted on the back of RV's and the bikes are rock solid on the rack. However, the rack itself is slamming back and forth in the hitch mount which is one of the main reasons stuff like this fails. Keep everything tight and the movement is more linear instead of abrupt.

[flybouy]

We are all just trying to help. We have seen this done many times, often with the same outcome. Those bumpers are so thin and welding anything to them often creates an issue where the heat weakens the metal and with the weld being stronger than the steel in the bumper it just opens it up like a can opener.

While I can't speak for Keystone it would make sense to me that they use this very thin steel to reduce cost, reduce weight, and make a sacrificial component if you happen to "bump into something". They are not engineered to hold much, if any weight. The typical "spare tire carrier" you see on trailers mounted to the bumper is in my thinking the limit of weight and that's only because they exert the fore directly above the bumper where the center of gravity is.

Nifty inventions such as yours and many others applies a "lever force" that multiplies the weight applied. Think of it this way, when you weld a mount to the 3 surfaces and "hang" the weight on the lever it's like placing a large pipe wrench on top of the bumper and bouncing X amount of weight on the handle. A great deal of torque (one side pulling, one side pushing ) on the front and back surfaces.

This would work well I'd think if you replaced the thin wall bumper with a thick walled 4 X 4 steel box.

[JRTJH]

Our Springdale fifth wheel had a bumper similar to the OP's bumper. When we installed a trailer hitch on the rear, the understanding between me and the welding shop was that NO WELDING would be done to attach the hitch to that thin metal bumper... When I walked up to look at the finished product, I nearly went ballistic !!! The hitch was welded to the bumper !!!!! Well, not really, the hitch was welded to the trailer frame and the shop had welded two 4" L angles to the bumper, completely encasing it with 1/8" steel. Then they welded the receiver to the bottom of those "L angles" to prevent the torque/rotation of the "lever" from twisting the bumper or the hitch cross member....

You might consider welding a "thicker steel L angle bar" behind/below (or behind/above) the existing bumper and then connecting that, at the bumper attachment points by beefing them up where they connect to the trailer frame rails....

There's lots of quality weld beads in your photos, I only wish mine looks as smooth and even.... Great work, the welding looks awesome, but it's only as strong as the material it's connected to..... I'm definitely not criticizing the work, in fact, I wish I could weld that precisely....

[Ken / Claudia]

Just my years spend traveling/working n the highways and freeways. When approaching and RV that had stuff mounted to its bumper. I see some looking like a yo-yo of gear bouncing, some not. I have made 3 distinctions. 1 solid as a rock, the stuff of held/straped down correctly. Than pass the rig, that is found to be normally a motorhome. 2 The load is bouncing some what, it maybe strapped on great, but just hanging on a rear bumper it is a normally bouncing location. (Many long time RVers do not like rear kitchen models for a reason it is bouncy back there). When you pass those are TT and 5ers.
3 is the pull trailers with stuff strapped on with rubber straps or other poor methods. Those are accidents waiting to happen. I have found bikes, bikes with bikes racks, fire wood, several bumpers either dragging or broken off and all kinds of debris left on the road. That was called into 911 as fallen off the rear, that includes from the ladder. BTY, check those spare tires and mounts they get loose.

[RVGator]

Nice handiwork. I have a different question than most. What is a walking beam axle trailer? Looks cool, but no idea what it does? Just curious.

[Mastrblastr]

Thanks for the insight guys. After reading all your posts I will probably just replace my bumper. Too much info and wealth of knowledge here to not take that into consideration. Will more than likely have to find another spot for my septic hose as an HSS with a 3/16 or 1/4 wall will not accommodate the hose. Either that or build an HSS with an inside diameter closer to the original bumper. A ton of welding if you manufacture a bumper! Easier to buy a 4x4x3/16 or 1/4 HSS and weld it on.

RVgator, a walking beam axle atv trailer has no suspension but it has a main pivot point on either side for the tandem axle. They glide over everything and keep the bouncing you see with a lot of single axle atv trailers down to a minimum. I have had 2 different single axle atv trailers over the years and they were always in the air every time I looked back to see if the trailer was OK. Built a walking beam trailer and never looked back. It goes over anything!
Not my video but it shows how a walking beam works.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_t7DmNB_0k

[flybouy]

You'll do yourself a favor by moving the sewer hose. Those cheap bumpers rust on the inside and every time you drag it in or out the rust damages the hose.

There are some very good posts on how some folks use a 5" Sq. PVC post cover. A PVC rain gutter fits inside and acts as a sliding tray to make storing/retrieving easy. The 5" size also accommodates the hose fitting as well.

There are also manufactured "tubes" for that purpose as well.

[cavediver]

I watched the video for the trailer looks like a good solution to keep some of the wheels on the ground. I just finished the hinges. Now to redo the rack. Mine is 6 foot wide and the hinges will weld to the frame and the box tubing. So it will be plenty strong. Again thanks for the idea.

[Mastrblastr]

Flybuoy, I checked out a few threads on doing the pvc fence post mod for the sewer hose storage. I’ll more than likely just buy the Valterra one, bolt it on and be done with it. $87 on Amazon.ca. Will do the bumper re & re next days off (weather permitting).

Cavediver, let’s see some pictures when you get it done!

[flybouy]

Flybuoy, I checked out a few threads on doing the pvc fence post mod for the sewer hose storage. I’ll more than likely just buy the Valterra one, bolt it on and be done with it. $87 on Amazon.ca. Will do the bumper re & re next days off (weather permitting).

Cavediver, let’s see some pictures when you get it done!

The Valtera is the one I ended up with. Found it at a deep discount online and got lazy. Post some pics when you get that new bumper finished, look forward to seeing it!

[Nitehawk]

[QUOTE=Mastrblastr;385152]Thanks for the advice guys. It is appreciated. Like I said before, if it starts to tear, I will cut it off and weld on a heavier HSS tube. Another way that I can reduce the weight is to remove the entire walking beam axle on either side as it is only one bolt holding it on. Will drastically reduce the weight of the atv trailer.


I had two bikes(127lbs total) on a swag bike rack last season halfway to my destination cars were honk and pointing when i pulled over and looked My bicycle were dragging along the ground, unfortunately I could not as you say cut it of and weld a new heavy bumper on since my equipment was 200 miles away .
bikes ended up in the trailer and when i did get home I did the cut and replace .. if you think you are going to do it If it happens , just do it now and avoid the problem .. Just my opinion..

[kaju65]

Mastrblastr, sorry to hijack your thread but I noticed you and I have the same Bullet and I had a question for you. I assume you have the outside kitchen with the large door that opens upwards? Have you ever had an issue with the strut mount on the door side? The screws on mine started pulling out so I built a new larger mounting plate using tips from this site but eventually the whole mount pulled off the door. I discovered the wood frame was rotten from water getting into the door so I've had to order a replacement door.

[Mastrblastr]

Kaju, I did have a problem with that door. We were out camping and I went to close it and it tore the screws out of the back side strut mount. They pulled out fairly cleanly and since we were way in the bush, I found some bigger screws and screwed the mount back on. Haven't had trouble with it since but I did find that part of the problem was human error. When I went to close the door I grabbed it by one corner and pushed it down. Thats when the screws popped out. I now make sure I grab it in the center of the door so the pressure is equal between the two struts. Seems to work fine but time will tell.

Oh, and I bought some 4x4x3/16 HSS for the bumper so just need some decent weather to get it done. Supposed to rain here for the next 2 days.

[cavediver]

26627I hope this works. I took pictures of the hinges and frame. The outer hinges are 1/4" the centers are 1/2" I used shoulder bolts for the pivot. When it's down it will have three bolts including the pivot. Up just two. The back section of the outers will be welded to the trailer frame it will also be welded to the bumper. The six inches of the hinge welded to the frame will take the stress. As you said bolted tight there will be very little movement. Everything that goes in the frame will not bounce. Now to wait for Monday to finish it rain tomorrow.

[cavediver]

Well the weather held off so I welded the hinges on. They came out ok. Now to get them painted. Thanks again for the idea.

[Mastrblastr]

Looks great Cavediver! 👍🏻

[Mastrblastr]

Weather was good so decided to get this job done. Pulled out all the tools I needed and went to work. Chopped off the bumper with my plasma cutter. Nothing fancy, just hacked it off.
https://img.techpowerup.org/200421/23b29506-c13e-4453-8862-14943b6331b8.jpg
Once I got the bumper off I recut the end of the frame and ground it clean.
https://img.techpowerup.org/200421/bdfb49e2-a449-4762-95f4-023086630a37.jpg
I cut the cargo carrier mounts off the old bumper, cleaned them up with a grinder and remounted them on the cargo carrier. Put the whole assembly on the new bumper and tacked the mounts.
https://img.techpowerup.org/200421/dad38722-5453-4faf-8827-939681cc1e14.jpg
Welded everything together and put the new end doors and latches on.
https://img.techpowerup.org/200421/f22e9a77-9798-4842-8daf-62d309cca023.jpg
Put the whole assembly on the trailer and welded it up. Came up with a top fishplate idea to strengthen the top of the frame and welded that on too. Added an extra tie down spot as well.
https://img.techpowerup.org/200421/102cb4ee-358b-4d07-800b-2019cb2878d9.jpg
Welded everything else I needed to and that was that! Done! Just need to paint it tomorrow and remount my propane quick connect.
https://img.techpowerup.org/200421/de19532c-0497-4104-82ec-29886c31c560.jpg

[flybouy]

Looks fantastic! Great job.

[travelin texans]

Now there's a RV bumper you can use for something other than the sewer hose.
Nice job!

[cavediver]

Nice job on the doublers where it welds to the frame. You could pick the whole trailer off the ground by the bumper. I just use my bumper to hold my drying rack and TV antenna pole, the ends of my sewer hose don't fit.

[Nitehawk]

You will have no regrets with that mod

[Mastrblastr]

Ya, there's no way you can get a sewer hose in there now. Gonna order a Valterra hose storage tube and mount it under the trailer (thanks Flybuoy!) for storing my hose. Don't know what I'm gonna store in the bumper now but I'll figure something out! Will try to find something that will slide into the new bumper to make a long drawer, like the PVC hose storage mod some guys have done. Lots of small things a guy can store in there. I found some stainless bolts for bolting everything together, so I'll use those to keep the rusting down. Plus, it's shiny and looks good!!

Very grateful for the information you guys gave me concerning this! I've been building things for a long time and after cutting that original bumper off, I have no idea what I was thinking when I welded those mounts on that stock bumper. Too much on my mind I guess, what with the world falling apart and all. anyways, thanks for the insight guys! I'm confident this will give me years of worry free use.

[flybouy]

The end result looks good and should serve you well for the duration. I use my bumper storage (factory) to store the collapsible flag pole.

[notanlines]

First class, fella! Your welds somehow look a lot better then mine!

[Mastrblastr]

Couple of pictures with everything painted up.
https://img.techpowerup.org/200423/b4fdac49-c0e7-43f3-a43a-58d881b8036c.jpg

https://img.techpowerup.org/200423/73f8c254-1996-4909-85da-5ba98bfe0d98.jpg

[RVGator]

Looks amazing. When can I back mine up to your garage for same mod? :)

[Mastrblastr]

Hahaha!! If you were close and had a fat enough wallet, I'd probably do that!!:lol:

[Mastrblastr]

First good pull with the walking beam trailer on the new carrier. Worked fantastic with being able to tie it down to the carrier as well as the bumper. Couldn’t be happier with how this turned out.
https://img.techpowerup.org/200702/91b7df39-24ed-4381-8101-a1729eb8c432.jpg

Also found it was a great place to put my barbecue as it is perfectly level and a lot easier than trying to setup the table where I usually put it!!
https://img.techpowerup.org/200702/96694c06-19b6-49a1-805d-7ae74f399ea0.jpg

[JRTJH]

Looks good.... When are you going to start taking orders for the first production ????

[Mastrblastr]

:lol: I'll just use this prototype for a couple years to see if there's any problems I have to iron out. You know---------just to be safe. :D:D