New Rig Setup (Raptor 356)

[Dennis852]

Finally got everything set up for the tow rig. Yes I know a dually will tow this better/safer but I am 100% comfortable with my set up and know where I am with limits so please save the comments. 2018 Ram 6.7 leveled with full kelderman rear air ride and onboard compressor. Method 305 HD wheels (4500 lb per wheel) wrapped in toyo 285/75/18 (4080 lb per tire). I am using the pull rite #2900 20k rated slider hitch.

My question is how to I get the trailer to set a little more level? There is nowhere to lower the 5th wheel hitch from what I can see and the pin box is as Low as it could go. Just to see it I raised the pin box and dropped the air pressure in the bags but it’s almost identical to higher pressure and the pin box being lowered. It’s not a terrible angle I just want it perfect.

Here are some photos pre and post bags. Is this a disadvantage of the pull rite hitch? Also this is fully loaded minus food and 2 dirtbikes in the garage. 110 gallons of fresh water, 60 gallons
of fuel ext.

[CedarCreekWoody]

Those Ram 4x4s sit high. Mine does the same. You can't lower the trailer nose much without being too close to the truck bed. Raising the trailer over the axles may be an option, but not my area of expertise. Maybe someone else can comment. Being a bit nose high is not unusual, does it cause you problems towing?

[chunker]

What is the overhang to truck bed rail clearance? Looks like 6+" which isn't bad. Since you are going with that truck add some Ari to the bags, it's squatting too much. It appears the front is too high and rear squatted.

You don't say which Ram but I suspect a 2500 which probably isn't quite enough truck for the 356. Mine I just got and weighed had a pin of 3660# empty. Loaded with the bike and tools in the garage it should lighten a few hundred # but I also had very little fluid in any tank. I suspect if you take it to the scales you will embarrass yourself.

[rhagfo]

Finally got everything set up for the tow rig. Yes I know a dually will tow this better/safer but I am 100% comfortable with my set up and know where I am with limits so please save the comments. 2018 Ram 6.7 leveled with full kelderman rear air ride and onboard compressor. Method 305 HD wheels (4500 lb per wheel) wrapped in toyo 285/75/18 (4080 lb per tire). I am using the pull rite #2900 20k rated slider hitch.

My question is how to I get the trailer to set a little more level? There is nowhere to lower the 5th wheel hitch from what I can see and the pin box is as Low as it could go. Just to see it I raised the pin box and dropped the air pressure in the bags but it’s almost identical to higher pressure and the pin box being lowered. It’s not a terrible angle I just want it perfect.

Here are some photos pre and post bags. Is this a disadvantage of the pull rite hitch? Also this is fully loaded minus food and 2 dirtbikes in the garage. 110 gallons of fresh water, 60 gallons
of fuel ext.

What is the overhang to truck bed rail clearance? Looks like 6+" which isn't bad. Since you are going with that truck add some Ari to the bags, it's squatting too much. It appears the front is too high and rear squatted.

You don't say which Ram but I suspect a 2500 which probably isn't quite enough truck for the 356. Mine I just got and weighed had a pin of 3660# empty. Loaded with the bike and tools in the garage it should lighten a few hundred # but I also had very little fluid in any tank. I suspect if you take it to the scales you will embarrass yourself.

OP stated he wasn't looking for comments on weight, he has plenty of tire and rim.

Leveling the 5er, if you don't have more than 8" of bed rail clearance, the only thing you can do to level is raise the frame at the axles. Best solution for that size 5er is to have a correct height sub-frame built.

[flybouy]

OP stated he wasn't looking for comments on weight, he has plenty of tire and rim.

Leveling the 5er, if you don't have more than 8" of bed rail clearance, the only thing you can do to level is raise the frame at the axles. Best solution for that size 5er is to have a correct height sub-frame built.

Chunker has every right to express his/her opinion as you do. Statements like "he has plenty of tire and rim" can be very misleading to someone new to the rv towing world. You can put a tire/rim from a tractor trailer under a bicycle but that doesn't mean it increases the weight carrying capacity.

[Fishsizzle]

:popcorn:

Haven’t had one these in awhile

[MerlinB]

Please tell me that is a 350/3500 model truck and not a 250/2500.

[rhagfo]

What is the overhang to truck bed rail clearance? Looks like 6+" which isn't bad. Since you are going with that truck add some Ari to the bags, it's squatting too much. It appears the front is too high and rear squatted.

You don't say which Ram but I suspect a 2500 which probably isn't quite enough truck for the 356. Mine I just got and weighed had a pin of 3660# empty. Loaded with the bike and tools in the garage it should lighten a few hundred # but I also had very little fluid in any tank. I suspect if you take it to the scales you will embarrass yourself.

Chunker has every right to express his/her opinion as you do. Statements like "he has plenty of tire and rim" can be very misleading to someone new to the rv towing world. You can put a tire/rim from a tractor trailer under a bicycle but that doesn't mean it increases the weight carrying capacity.

Please tell me that is a 350/3500 model truck and not a 250/2500.

I am going to digress a bit to when I was towing out 2005 Keystone Sprinter Copper Canyon with our 2001 Ram 2500 CTD.
The 5er scaled 12,500# with a 2,700# pin putting the 8,800# GVWR TV at 10,500# or 1,700# over GVWR, but under both axle ratings, and well under the 13,660# of tire capacity 3,415# ea.

Now to my point Dennis852 and Chunker basically have the same TV as Dennis852 stated that he has a 17,000# max tow, so likely a Ram 2500 CTD with 3.42's and 68RFE trans. He has added highly rated air suspension and wheels and tires rated at 4,000# ea. Yes, he is over his GVWR, but might be within or close to to rear axle rating, but for safety enough suspension, wheel and tires.

Chunker has posted his empty weights and when all is said and done he will likely also be over GVWR and axle rating with his 2017 Ram 3500 SRW.

This is exactly why when we got our new TV I didn't even look at SRW 3500's, didn't see as being any better than our old 2500. We now have a 2016 Ram Laramie 3500 6.7/Aisin with 3.73's with a sticker payload of 5,411#.

The weight Police can attack me saying that a 2500 and a 3500 are same, same except for springs and possibly tires, but Chunker has those bases covered. I wish both would do it right and get DRW TV's.
:hide:

[sourdough]

I am going to digress a bit to when I was towing out 2005 Keystone Sprinter Copper Canyon with our 2001 Ram 2500 CTD.
The 5er scaled 12,500# with a 2,700# pin putting the 8,800# GVWR TV at 10,500# or 1,700# over GVWR, but under both axle ratings, and well under the 13,660# of tire capacity 3,415# ea.

Now to my point Dennis852 and Chunker basically have the same TV as Dennis852 stated that he has a 17,000# max tow, so most likely a 2013 ot newer Ram 2500 CTD with 3.42's and 68RFE trans. He has added highly rated air suspension and wheels and tires rated at 4,000# ea. Yes, he is over his GVWR, but might be within or close to to rear axle rating, but for safety enough suspension, wheel and tires.

Chunker has posted his empty weights and when all is said and done he will likely also be over GVWR and axle rating with his 2017 Ram 3500 SRW.

This is exactly why when we got our new TV I didn't even look at SRW 3500's, didn't see as being any better than our old 2500. We now have a 2016 Ram Laramie 3500 6.7/Aisin with3.73's with a sticker payload of 5,411#.

The weight Police can attack me saying that a 2500 and a 3500 are same, same except for springs and possibly tires, but Chunker has those bases covered. I wish both would do it right and get DRW TV's.



Russ, you struggled for a long period trying to get to a truck that would carry your load and you said so. Good on you.

I know for a long period you focused on tires and wheels because your payload was shot. But, at the end of the day, tires and wheels are just a part of the "towing/load" equations as you well know.

17000 lbs strapped to a SRW 2500, or 3500, is just "not right". Looking for ways from knowledgeable, knowing folks to make an overloaded combo "look better" is just....not what I want to be doing. Big load = big truck, not fancy wheels and big tires. JMO and YMMV as always.

[chunker]

Russ, you struggled for a long period trying to get to a truck that would carry your load and you said so. Good on you.

I know for a long period you focused on tires and wheels because your payload was shot. But, at the end of the day, tires and wheels are just a part of the "towing/load" equations as you well know.

17000 lbs strapped to a SRW 2500, or 3500, is just "not right". Looking for ways from knowledgeable, knowing folks to make an overloaded combo "look better" is just....not what I want to be doing. Big load = big truck, not fancy wheels and big tires. JMO and YMMV as always.

Partially true. I have the 3500 with a CC of 4207 and that's the door sticker. I never had a desire for a triple axle toy hauler and the Raptor 356 is fine for my travels. Not everyone travels at or above GVWR. Based on scale weights, I've got just under 3000# to use and my heavy stuff will be in the garage. I ordered this trailer specifically to eliminate some heavy and unneeded items and I know how I travel. I'll weigh again the first trip if this country ever opens again but I expect to be under 16K. Again I know how I pack cause I've been doing it for a while. I subscribe to the method that just because it has open space you don't have to fill it. I take occasional multi day trips on a motorcycle and know that kitchen sinks do not need to be packed.

Many toy haulers are used for heavy and multiple ORVs and in those cases they really do need the triple axle TH, 1T dually minimum. but even then need to be careful about weights. That said, I calculated carefully what the capabilities of my TV are, what my needs and desires are, and selected my RV based on that. Just the facts, not fiction. In the case of the OP, based on the squat and his stated loading, that's why I suspected he had a 2500. He has de-badged it but it looks like a 2500 megacab with the shorter bed. Based on the tow charts published by Ram Trucks his CC is likely around 2000 and rear axle GVW of 6500 if he has a Tradesman which is unlikely. Same charts for my 17 Ram 3500 show MY CC should be 4480 and again that would be a Tradesman. Mine is a Laramie moderately equipped and loses 273# due to trim level. Few people figure that issue.

So to wrap up with as they say "to keep a short story long", some me included calculate carefully what they are doing. Probably most don't. Pisses my GF off sometimes with my "over thinking" but I keep us safe.

[rhagfo]

I will keep this short.
Sourdough, the TV never struggled, that 16 year old 5.9 with 315,000 miles pulled fine, even with3.55's. It was the 3500 SRW the Ram didn't offer from 94 to 02, a 2500 with camper, tow and optional higher capacity tires.

Chunker, makes a good point in his last point, states his 3500 has a yellow sticker payload of 4,207#, yet states he has just under 3,000# of that left for pin. Based of his post he knew he would be about there. Many don't take into account how much what the carry in the TV reduces payload. We have a Yellow sticker payload of 5,411# we hit the scales ready to tow with full fuel and DEF and scaled 10,000# on a 14,000# GVWR so 4,000# left for pin.

One last thing the OP's truck is a CC short bed, mot a Mega Cab.

[Dennis852]

For all in question. Yes this is a 2018 2500 tradesman crew cab with the 6.7 Cummins and 68RFE trans. The truck is brand new with 16k miles still. Payload is beyond limits but I am close to the GAWR of 6500 but I am not 100% until I get to the cat scales. Also just below limits when fully loaded of the GCWR. Trailer =17, truck = 7619 + 300 for hitch for a grand total of 24,619 lbs with a max GCWR of 25,300. Again these are rough numbers until I can get to the scales.

I’ve done many sleepless nights of research and there is not much difference between the 2500 and the 3500 SRW ram trucks. From what I found the only difference between the two is the badging, The 2500 has rear coil springs while the 3500 has rear leaf springs and the option of the HO Cummins with AISIN trans on the 3500. Even the SRW 3500 with the HO and AISIN have the exact same GCWR. Other than that the frame, axles, brakes, tranny cooler ext are 100% the same and I have even been down the the local dealer to verify OEM part numbers. It’s the same truck.

I know I am pushing limits with this TV and that’s the reason for adding the full air ride and overrated tires and wheels. The weak link in the 2500 is the rear coil springs and by eliminating them I am comfortable with this set up. To me there is no reason the 3500 has the higher payload and axle rating other than the coil springs. I have looked and looked but can not find anything that shows me different. It’s all marketing.

I was able to get the truck and trailer to sit almost level with adjusting air pressure in the bags. I am about 65 psi on the bags. The truck has zero squat and 6 1/2” of clearance between the bed rails. I am good with this but have yet to take it out with being stuck at home. I also towed the trailer home for about 200 miles, empty with the truck being bone stock and in high winds on in some areas. I was thoroughly impressed on how well it towed. I was comfortable and to me that is good.

With all this being said yes I am at over over limits for my 2500 but with the weak link ( rear coil springs) taken out of the equation there is no reason that I have found that doesn’t show me this truck isn’t capable of 3500 SRW numbers.

We got into the rv world never thinking we would be able to afford such a trailer. I bought the ram and a 28’ travel trailer that was 10,000lbs wet. Truck towed it great, no squat no airbags no problems. Then my career took a huge change and we were able to afford something bigger and a better fit for our lifestyle of racing motocross. Will my next truck be a DRW diesel? 100% but in the meantime I am just trying to make the best out of what I have to work with.

[chuckster57]

Since your new and in Calif. let me give you some important CALIF information. CHP is randomly pulling over trucks with fibers attached. First thing they ask is if you have the proper license...No and your unhooking on the spot. Then they look at the rear axle rating, get the portable scales out and weigh the rear end...over by even 1 pound and YUP your unhooking.

It’s your choice, I’m just giving you the information you need. Good luck and I hope you never get put in a position to lose your trailer.

[Dennis852]

Since your new and in Calif. let me give you some important CALIF information. CHP is randomly pulling over trucks with fibers attached. First thing they ask is if you have the proper license...No and your unhooking on the spot. Then they look at the rear axle rating, get the portable scales out and weigh the rear end...over by even 1 pound and YUP your unhooking.

It’s your choice, I’m just giving you the information you need. Good luck and I hope you never get put in a position to lose your trailer.

Thanks chuck! I am licensed with a non commercial class a. I appreciate the heads up.

[travelin texans]

Thanks chuck! I am licensed with a non commercial class a. I appreciate the heads up.

That takes care of the driving legally!
The towing part is still an issue though as far as weights! All the mods to the truck doesn't change the weights posted on the door post.
The vehicle manufacturers should never post max tow weights, post load & axle weights in BOLD print only, as you'll exceed those long before ever towing max.
Also RV manufacturers should never post dry weights, that only causes confusion for everyone.
From my experience regardless of how anal you are about loading a RV before long you'll be at the max GVWR. "I might need this/that" so it gets loaded but never unloaded.
From the 1st photo with the rear bumper nearly dragging with empty rv before air ride indicates too much rv, not enough truck. Yes you've got plenty of motor/trans, but lacking on most everything else.

[GHen]

A trip to the scales and posting all the weights by axel and posting the RAM max numbers from the door panel should answer everyone’s questions. I’m pretty sure the air bags only provide level the truck, not add to the carry capacity, at least that’s how it is on both of my sons Rams.

[chunker]

A trip to the scales and posting all the weights by axel and posting the RAM max numbers from the door panel should answer everyone’s questions. I’m pretty sure the air bags only provide level the truck, not add to the carry capacity, at least that’s how it is on both of my sons Rams.

He's already stated that he knows the air bags don't increase any weight rating and that he knows he's over on some to the truck ratings also. His interest is to get it more level. Anyone attempting to tow a 5th wheel toy hauler with a 250/2500 should know they are over some limits but some accept that and some don't care or don't know.

6.7L CUMMINS DIESEL A6 68RFE 3.42 10,000 2,380 7,617 4,701 2,916 5,750 6,000 25,300 17,210

I looked up a 2108 Ram 2500 towing chart and for a Tradesman, which he says he has the red is cargo capacity. blue RAWR, and green GCWR.

That's for a 2018 Ram 2500 crew cab, short box, 6.7l diesel.

When I weighed mine empty I was over the RAWR a bit. Both my fuel tanks were full, trailer had 2-300 pounds of water in the tanks. If when I load the bike, gear for riding, tools, etc., I'll visit the scales again. It may be that fuel will have to be reduced. I flew helicopters in the Gulf of Mexico for a few years and the aircraft was a bit short on power and cargo capacity. Because the load was required, my fuel was sacrificed and I spent a lot more time fueling and course changing than otherwise necessary. Will a truck and trailer sink into the asphalt killing everyone on board, unlikely. Will an overloaded component fail and take out a family of 5, unlikely but possible.

Yo buys your ticket and takes yo chances.

Last comment here.

[Tooth Ferry]

For some "know it all" people you don't ever have enough truck unless it is a dually 3500, even for a teardrop trailer.

NOT necessarily true. You can get tow and carry weights for your specific truck as it left the factory by giving the VIN # to a customer service person at RAM factory or they can tell you where to access that info. If you are interested. Everyone wants to give their opinions even if not requested. I was pleasantly surprised when I got this info on my RAM 2500 2013.

[flybouy]

He's already stated that he knows the air bags don't increase any weight rating and that he knows he's over on some to the truck ratings also. His interest is to get it more level. Anyone attempting to tow a 5th wheel toy hauler with a 250/2500 should know they are over some limits but some accept that and some don't care or don't know.

6.7L CUMMINS DIESEL A6 68RFE 3.42 10,000 2,380 7,617 4,701 2,916 5,750 6,000 25,300 17,210

I looked up a 2108 Ram 2500 towing chart and for a Tradesman, which he says he has the red is cargo capacity. blue RAWR, and green GCWR.

That's for a 2018 Ram 2500 crew cab, short box, 6.7l diesel.

When I weighed mine empty I was over the RAWR a bit. Both my fuel tanks were full, trailer had 2-300 pounds of water in the tanks. If when I load the bike, gear for riding, tools, etc., I'll visit the scales again. It may be that fuel will have to be reduced. I flew helicopters in the Gulf of Mexico for a few years and the aircraft was a bit short on power and cargo capacity. Because the load was required, my fuel was sacrificed and I spent a lot more time fueling and course changing than otherwise necessary. Will a truck and trailer sink into the asphalt killing everyone on board, unlikely. Will an overloaded component fail and take out a family of 5, unlikely but possible.

Yo buys your ticket and takes yo chances.

Last comment here.
Problem is you bought you're ticket so have at it. The problem I have with this I didn't so you are imposing you're known risk taking on me and every other innocent motorist on the highway. That's the same logic drunk driver's use on drinking and driving.

[rhagfo]

Since your new and in Calif. let me give you some important CALIF information. CHP is randomly pulling over trucks with fibers attached. First thing they ask is if you have the proper license...No and your unhooking on the spot. Then they look at the rear axle rating, get the portable scales out and weigh the rear end...over by even 1 pound and YUP your unhooking.

It’s your choice, I’m just giving you the information you need. Good luck and I hope you never get put in a position to lose your trailer.

For all in question. Yes this is a 2018 2500 tradesman crew cab with the 6.7 Cummins and 68RFE trans. The truck is brand new with 16k miles still. Payload is beyond limits but I am close to the GAWR of 6500 but I am not 100% until I get to the cat scales. Also just below limits when fully loaded of the GCWR. Trailer =17, truck = 7619 + 300 for hitch for a grand total of 24,619 lbs with a max GCWR of 25,300. Again these are rough numbers until I can get to the scales.

I’ve done many sleepless nights of research and there is not much difference between the 2500 and the 3500 SRW ram trucks. From what I found the only difference between the two is the badging, The 2500 has rear coil springs while the 3500 has rear leaf springs and the option of the HO Cummins with AISIN trans on the 3500. Even the SRW 3500 with the HO and AISIN have the exact same GCWR. Other than that the frame, axles, brakes, tranny cooler ext are 100% the same and I have even been down the the local dealer to verify OEM part numbers. It’s the same truck.

I know I am pushing limits with this TV and that’s the reason for adding the full air ride and overrated tires and wheels. The weak link in the 2500 is the rear coil springs and by eliminating them I am comfortable with this set up. To me there is no reason the 3500 has the higher payload and axle rating other than the coil springs. I have looked and looked but can not find anything that shows me different. It’s all marketing.

I was able to get the truck and trailer to sit almost level with adjusting air pressure in the bags. I am about 65 psi on the bags. The truck has zero squat and 6 1/2” of clearance between the bed rails. I am good with this but have yet to take it out with being stuck at home. I also towed the trailer home for about 200 miles, empty with the truck being bone stock and in high winds on in some areas. I was thoroughly impressed on how well it towed. I was comfortable and to me that is good.

With all this being said yes I am at over over limits for my 2500 but with the weak link ( rear coil springs) taken out of the equation there is no reason that I have found that doesn’t show me this truck isn’t capable of 3500 SRW numbers.

We got into the rv world never thinking we would be able to afford such a trailer. I bought the ram and a 28’ travel trailer that was 10,000lbs wet. Truck towed it great, no squat no airbags no problems. Then my career took a huge change and we were able to afford something bigger and a better fit for our lifestyle of racing motocross. Will my next truck be a DRW diesel? 100% but in the meantime I am just trying to make the best out of what I have to work with.

Interesting, Chunker posted that the tradesman had a 6,000# rear GAWR, OP states 6,500# I hope from VIN sticker.

Dennis, (OP) is aware of weight issues and has made sure he has enough wheel and tire, BUT if what Chuckster states is true, I would very concerned about having to drop my 5er at the side of the road for being over GAWR!

[travelin texans]

For some "know it all" people you don't ever have enough truck unless it is a dually 3500, even for a teardrop trailer.

NOT necessarily true. You can get tow and carry weights for your specific truck as it left the factory by giving the VIN # to a customer service person at RAM factory or they can tell you where to access that info. If you are interested. Everyone wants to give their opinions even if not requested. I was pleasantly surprised when I got this info on my RAM 2500 2013.

Open the drivers door, you'll find the same info as it left the factory as you'll get from someone sitting a desk answering the phone at the factory which they are most likely reading from the same false brochure as you'd get at the dealership.
From "one know it all" that had plenty of truck to another "know it all" that thinks they'll be just fine towing overweight PLEASE post when/where you'll be towing so the rest of us can avoid the inevitable.

[GHen]

I’ve always questioned if an overloaded vehicle will still be covered by insurance if they cause an accident. If they won’t pay repair costs will they still pay medical costs for the innocent people affected?

[CaptnJohn]

My wife want d to replace our 2 year old Montana with h a much heavier Montana, especially in the CCC area. I said yes knowing the almost 3 year old F350 srw would require a new F350 drw. No bags ever needed on any of my TVs. Buying a capable TVshould be 1st and 5er 2nd. Much better than trying to make a Cadillac out of a VW.

[flybouy]

I’ve always questioned if an overloaded vehicle will still be covered by insurance if they cause an accident. If they won’t pay repair costs will they still pay medical costs for the innocent people affected?

I think an insurance company will go to any length to not pay a claim and an attorney will go to any length to get money out of anyone with any culpability.

[Logan X]

I think an insurance company will go to any length to not pay a claim and an attorney will go to any length to get money out of anyone with any culpability.

This is 100% the truth.

[chuckster57]

BUT if what Chuckster states is true, I would very concerned about having to drop my 5er at the side of the road for being over GAWR!

Brother in law watched it happen at Pismo beach. Last dealership I worked at, customer was bringing his unit in for service. Got pulled over 2 miles from dealership, didn’t have the endorsement on his drivers license. His trailer sat on the side of the road until he got it.

It does happen!! Got to remember, Ca and CHP are “eager for revenue”. I’m not inclined to give them any more than I have to.

[rhagfo]

Brother in law watched it happen at Pismo beach. Last dealership I worked at, customer was bringing his unit in for service. Got pulled over 2 miles from dealership, didn’t have the endorsement on his drivers license. His trailer sat on the side of the road until he got it.

It does happen!! Got to remember, Ca and CHP are “eager for revenue”. I’m not inclined to give them any more than I have to.
I can chuckle a bit at that, when we were towing with the 2001 Ram 2500, we were 1,700# over GVWR, but still about 300# under rear GAWR.
I will give the OP credit as he knows where he is at weight wise. He has also made sure he has enough wheel and tire.
What scares me is those that get a big rig and throw bags on their 2500 or 3500, and call it good without hitting the scales, and have overloaded wheels and tires!

[Logan X]

It does happen!! Got to remember, Ca and CHP are “eager for revenue”. I’m not inclined to give them any more than I have to.

I don’t disagree that the CHP will make you drop the trailer but it’s not because they are eager for money. CHP doesn’t get any money from writing tickets. All of the revenue from citations goes to whichever jurisdiction (city) the ticket was written in.

The state of California however, is eager for money. Obviously. Their main source of revenue from vehicles is from registration fees, which as I’m sure you know, are pretty high here.

[notanlines]

I believe Cap'n John and I have a small difference of opinion. The RV should be purchased FIRST and then an appropriate TV bought second. All that will happen is that the usual truck salesperson will tell the buyer that the 3/4 ton gasser they're about to buy will pull the socks off a rooster. Mama heads to the RV show in Hershey and guess what Montana she picks? RV first and TV second!
Roast me, I can take it! :hide:

[chuckster57]

Didn’t know that, Thanks for the clarification.

[rhagfo]

I believe Cap'n John and I have a small difference of opinion. The RV should be purchased FIRST and then an appropriate TV bought second. All that will happen is that the usual truck salesperson will tell the buyer that the 3/4 ton gasser they're about to buy will pull the socks off a rooster. Mama heads to the RV show in Hershey and guess what Montana she picks? RV first and TV second!
Roast me, I can take it! :hide:

Not always the case, those that are upgrading, you have both already, get a new 5er and Oops now the old TV is over GVWR! :facepalm:
Well let's see scales show over over GVWR, under both axles and tires, the new TV can wait. We towed our Copper Canyon for near seven years with the Ram 2500, never needed bags to be level.

Both Chunker and Dennis852 are pushing the limits of their SRW TV. There are many with TH that do this, want the big 5er, but refuse to use a correctly sized TV for the job, because the TV is too BIG! :facepalm:
I just shake my head at these people as as full timers our 2016 Ram 3500 DRW is our only vehicle AKA Daily Driver.

[dutchmensport]

Dennis852,
I don't know much about trucks (really), but I agree the front looks nose high and the tail looks tail low. Normally, that is not too much of a problem if the out-of-level is not too great. The problem with a tail low scenario is the fact you can so easily drag the rear of the camper on even some of the slightest dips. I know. I've done it myself many times with a 41 foot 5er, and I'm sitting pretty level.

The other problem is, if you lower the front, you run the risk of hitting the bed rails. Um... this also happened once on me and I put a crack in my front cap, which I was able to fix myself. And fortunate, did not damage the truck bed rails at all. So, even a level set-up, still has issues when the camper is so long.

In your case (and I'm not arguing anything about your truck here), it sounds like your only option is to flip the axles on your camper. That will raise the front and the back some, possibly making everything level and even give you a little wiggle room to adjust the pin-box.

If you have already flipped the axles, then I honestly do not know of any other solution, except the purchase of a different truck that sits lower. It's quite obvious, your truck can't be modified any further.

Good luck.

[GHen]

I agree with Dutchman, not many other options, you may need to raise the trailer to match the truck.

I don’t remember if there were comments on the shackles, I think I can raise mine a couple inches with the suspension setup, of flip axels which will go up 6”. But your steps will also go up by the same amount.

[rhagfo]

I think the only way to get that trailer level is to build a sub-frame.