New Member with Problem, Underbelly Access

[JimSell]

Been camping forever, 70 years old. Went from tent to popup to a 2004 Keystone Outback Super-Lite 23RS in very good condition. Bought it last week and the prior owner did not tell me the black tank drain does not work. Gray tank drains fine. T-handle for the black was not connected to anything, black tank is 1/4 full. How do know how the tanks are laid out under the trailer? The bottom is covered with a black plastic sheet with bolts and washers along the sides. I guess I will have to jack up the trailer and support it in order to get underneath. The black tank T-handle is 36" long so I assume the valve is probably on the door side of the trailer, the opposit side from the outlet drain? What is the best way to open the bottom? Try to unbolt it from the side or cut through the plastic and duct tape it closed later? Any help would be appreciated.

[CedarCreekWoody]

You are most likely going to have to open it up and explore. Removing screws and washers is a good way to go, but a lot of work. Many people cut an opening and then secure it back. Cut a three sided rectangular opening with the uncut side toward the front to act as a hinge, then tape it back once completed.

[Logan X]

Welcome to the forum and good luck with your repair.

[chuckster57]

Welcome to the forum.

The best way to approach this is to remove just enough screws so you can look inside the underbelly with a flashlight. Odds are the drain is on the rear of the tank near the curb side.

[JimSell]

Kinda what I thought, especially the three cut opening with hinge toward the front. Tried to peek in through the side but could not see too far. The end of the T-handle has a thread so I am hoping once I find the valve I can just thread it back on. Any suggestion on what to use to cut the plastic?

[Bolo4u]

Kinda what I thought, especially the three cut opening with hinge toward the front. Tried to peek in through the side but could not see too far. The end of the T-handle has a thread so I am hoping once I find the valve I can just thread it back on. Any suggestion on what to use to cut the plastic?

A regular razor knife should cut it easily.

If you follow Chucksters advice, you will likely be able to remove enough screws along the edge to see the tank and where the valve handle screws back on, WITHOUT having to cut the coro-plast or whatever underbelly material you have.

[JimSell]

Thanks. It's really raining out and this is my day off otherwise I would try it today. I work as the Receiver at a Acme (part of Albertsons) supermarket. Shelves had been empty of TP. Went to a Camping World last Monday and they had tons of camper TP, guess no one thought to look there.

[flybouy]

As an option to tearing into it blindly I bought an endoscope that connects to my android phone similar to this https://www.amazon.com/CCbetter-Endoscope-Waterproof-Adjustable-Inspection/dp/B073ZXXHY4/ref=zg_bs_8297406011_20?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WERZHQT12NG8BW59X570
I paid about $30 for it and has been worth every penny IMHO. I've used it to look at the differential gears thru the drain plug, find wires under the dashboard, handy around the house as well.

[chunker]

If you decide to cut be very careful with the knife. Some tanks may sag in the middle and be very close to the coroplast, and an errant cut may bring an unwanted surprise.

[wiredgeorge]

Thanks. It's really raining out and this is my day off otherwise I would try it today. I work as the Receiver at a Acme (part of Albertsons) supermarket. Shelves had been empty of TP. Went to a Camping World last Monday and they had tons of camper TP, guess no one thought to look there.

If you have used camping TP you may understand why it isn't quite as popular as regular TP. It is an abomination at best but a necessity for the camper. We have been in Del Rio camping this week and the Walmart was a scene of bare shelves as a result of panic buying and hording. Up the road was a Dollar General which had pretty well stocked shelves and they didn't have bad prices.

[JimSell]

So I took three bolts/washers off of the driver's side of the bottom near to sewer drain.This allowed enough slack so I could pull down the outer edge of the coloplast and shine my flashlight in the underbelly. I could see the male end of the valve rod and I very patiently slid the T-handle in slit and over to the end of the rod, was able to rotate it and thread onto the the valve stem. It worked, it drained and I'm smiling.

THANK YOU ALL!

[Logan X]

So I took three bolts/washers off of the driver's side of the bottom near to sewer drain.This allowed enough slack so I could pull down the outer edge of the coloplast and shine my flashlight in the underbelly. I could see the male end of the valve rod and I very patiently slid the T-handle in slit and over to the end of the rod, was able to rotate it and thread onto the the valve stem. It worked, it drained and I'm smiling.

THANK YOU ALL!

That’s awesome! I’m glad it was an easy fix

[chunker]

So I took three bolts/washers off of the driver's side of the bottom near to sewer drain.This allowed enough slack so I could pull down the outer edge of the coloplast and shine my flashlight in the underbelly. I could see the male end of the valve rod and I very patiently slid the T-handle in slit and over to the end of the rod, was able to rotate it and thread onto the the valve stem. It worked, it drained and I'm smiling.

THANK YOU ALL!

I know you don't want to hear this but I suggest you open it back up and use pliers to tighten the 2 pieces together. Vibrations etc will loosen the rod and you'll be doing it again that is if the T handle doesn't depart the scene while going down the road.

[JimSell]

I didn't button anything up yet so I think that is a good idea. I thought about putting some locktite in the threads but was so happy the valve functioned smoothly and did not need to be replaced or leak.

Thanks again

[JDDilly]

I also used some LocTite on mine.

[66joej]

I didn't button anything up yet so I think that is a good idea. I thought about putting some locktite in the threads but was so happy the valve functioned smoothly and did not need to be replaced or leak.

Thanks again

Apply the blue loctite. They do vibrate off. Ask me how I know.

[sourdough]

Apply the blue loctite. They do vibrate off. Ask me how I know.


^^^^^x2 - apply some Loctite.

[chuckster57]

^^^^^x2 - apply some Loctite.


Third vote for locktite

[BobAndLinda]

That's awful that the original owner did that to you. Karma will take care of the punishment.

[Tatanka Ob Waci]

IMHO, I would take enough screws out to inspect the area. We have a 5ver toyhauler and I had to replace the black tank. Took the screws out holding the belly cover, pushed it back enough to get to the area where the black tank is mounted. I removed the old one, installed a new one and put everything back together without any issues. It's a little time consuming, but at least you haven't cut the belly cover.

[mpellet723]

1st thing I plan to do when I open it up.
You can as me why also.

[rlh1957]

As mentioned if you know what area that needs attention a small cutout may suffice. You can reseal with Gaffers Tape or the Gorilla Tape... both are superior to regular Duct tape that over time will wither, peel and leave the goo. Bigger jobs may involve unscrew, unbolt of a big section. Sometimes where a pipe comes through you have to use a knife to trim the foam sealant and then re-foam when putting it back together. Maybe some of the Keystone Manufacturing Process YouTubes will give you a peek at the frame underbelly and how they put that big sheet on.

[rdnels]

I had the same problem with a new 24sab in 2018. I was able to install a piece of 1/4" all thread and bend the end into a handle. When I did this, the valve worked. Did not cut the plastic.