Cable slide mechanism

[chunker]

EDIT ADDING; not sure if this is the best section here for this thread so if the mods want to move it to the appropriate section, feel free, thanks.

I have had slides, electric and/or hydraulic with gear track on the side, under floor, in floor, flush floor, etc. But never had the cable slide mechanism. Right off the bat I have questions about reliability, maintenance, periodic adjustments, issues to be aware of, etc. Some slides say don't stop part ways out or they could go "out of sync". Well the slides don't say it but people do. The Raptor 356 on order has the cable mechanisms and in my mode that method, where I can control an individual single slide, will work well. On some stops while enroute across country, I may be in areas that I can't safely extend a slide all the way so partial extension may be my only option. Example is the left kitchen slide to access the refer and microwave to get something to eat/drink.

Can these type slides be used when retracted or partially extended? Example extending or using the right living area slide with the recliners to relax while stopped. Some, my previous Raptor 300MP for example, had a warning NOT to get in the slide unless fully extended. I can understand that to a point since partially extended it's not fully supported and the edges specifically are vulnerable. I'm not talking about jumping up and down in it but sitting quietly and being careful around the edges, inside unsupported edge in particular.

Reference maintenance and adjustments, I have read on here and other forums about loose cables, etc. How often typically do the cables need adjusting and is the inspection and adjustment clearly (ha ha) addressed in the owner's manual or any other document provided?

[LewisB]

We are in exactly the same boat with our new Raptor 353TS. Thanks for asking the questions! I too will watch for answers.

[busterbrown]

Our Bullet is equipped with 2 BAL accuslides from Norco Industries. When I purchased my coach, the dealer (service mgr) explicitly told be to avoid any significant weight in the slide while retracted and while extending. He told me that the slide out is designed to only support the weight in its fully extended position. He confirmed that by offering me all the service requests for the slide failures from owners doing the opposite.

Suffice it to say, we stay off the slides until fully deployed. We're in our 4th season with our coach without slide issues. (knock on wood).

[sourdough]

For those new to cable slides here is a handy reference. I have it printed, in a folder and it goes with me in the trailer;

https://norcoind.com/bal/downloads/accuslide/accuslide_service-manual.pdf

I've never had an issue with them in the last several years - that is the CABLE/PULLEY portion. I have had tremendous problems with the Darco fabric on the bottom dragging/fraying on the "wear" bar underneath the slide. Keep a very close eye on it. Various remedies have been discussed on here and I will be employing one of them on this new trailer before it becomes a serious issue.

As far as partial extension of a slide and useage; I was told up front to either pull it in or put it out completely to use it and we do. I have had to partially extend one once or twice to do something urgent and it did seem to "rock" or teeter in a manner that didn't seem right. Could have been my imagination but I tend to think not. As far as things to eat or drink during a trip we either eat/drink at some stop or carry items and small cooler in the truck.

[JRTJH]

I "think" (can't prove) that any slide "should be fully extended/fully retracted" with every movement. It's more to allow enough slide movement to allow the seals to turn in the proper direction than it is to "keep the slide mechanism in alignment... I've found (for what it's worth) that if you extend the slide only a couple inches, then retract it, the slide seals will "jam, partially turned but not fully turned". It's the same with an extended slide. Pull it in a few inches, then extend it, the slide seals won't have enough "friction/movement" to fully flip to the proper position. If you "immediately fully extend/retract the slide, the seals are "soft enough to reset"..

But: If you store it for any length of time with the seals "part in/part out", they will deform (sometimes permanently) and that leads to "uneven, jerking movement and twisting, especially with cable slides that really "are only hanging by 4 cables in their hole"....

I have always "heard" not to partly extend/retract a slide, but nobody has ever told me "why you shouldn't".... The above is "my theory" and all I've ever found on "why not".... YMMV

[Northofu1]

I had to adjust the dinette/sofa slide. I extended mine fully, so much easier to access the cable adjuster/ tensioners. My issue was the dinette table was marking the island when fully retracted. As long as you follow the directions, use the tools they suggest it isn't that hard. I have the same manual as Danny and also keep a copy of it handy.
2 tips.
Have someone on the outside measuring the change in distance of the end / corner you need to adjust.
When you pull the access trim off it's most likely that they are stapled, nip off all the staples. Purchase some screw caps and a #6 x 1-1/4" to 1-1/2". I used a level and measured the distance to evenly space them. The caps can be painted to match. I didn't need to, the caramel colour kind of matched and looked like they belonged. assembled it and it's good. I figured starting with smaller screws would allow me to use larger diameter screws as needed after future removals.

[LHaven]

Our Bullet is equipped with 2 BAL accuslides from Norco Industries. When I purchased my coach, the dealer (service mgr) explicitly told be to avoid any significant weight in the slide while retracted and while extending. He told me that the slide out is designed to only support the weight in its fully extended position.

Ouch! That is complete news to us!

We often stop in an interstate rest area to make a sandwich for lunch and immediately get back on the road, meaning that we sit in the dinette while fully retracted. I never would have dreamed there was a support issue in that position.

[flybouy]

Ouch! That is complete news to us!

We often stop in an interstate rest area to make a sandwich for lunch and immediately get back on the road, meaning that we sit in the dinette while fully retracted. I never would have dreamed there was a support issue in that position.

I was told the same thing when we bought our trailer. No weight on the slide outs unless fully extended.

[chuckster57]

If you partially extend or retract a Schwintec slide, the motors get out of synch and the room starts to move unevenly (we call it caddywampus). Same applies to the power gear slide mechanism. There is a specific procedure to re synch both slide mechanisms.

If you look at the floor on many of the hydraulic or electric “through frame” slides you’ll notice it sits up OFF the main floor. We advise customers not to use that slide unless fully extended, as the floor is not supported and it’s made of particle board. I have been involved in replacing floor because they “cracked” from being walked on.

[LHaven]

If you partially extend or retract a Schwintec slide, the motors get out of synch and the room starts to move unevenly (we call it caddywampus). Same applies to the power gear slide mechanism. There is a specific procedure to re synch both slide mechanisms.

That concerns me. My slide operates solely from the inCommand screen. That screen is not particularly touch-friendly. In an average slide extension or retraction operation, it "sees" my finger slide off the tiny icon button two or three times before the operation is complete. Is this going to cause me a problem?

Is the resync procedure something an owner could do?

If you look at the floor on many of the hydraulic or electric “through frame” slides you’ll notice it sits up OFF the main floor. We advise customers not to use that slide unless fully extended, as the floor is not supported and it’s made of particle board. I have been involved in replacing floor because they “cracked” from being walked on.

I don't understand this. When the slide is fully extended, there's nothing under the slide floor at all except open space, so how would it be any weaker when retracted?

[chuckster57]

There is a simple way to re synch the schwintec system. If you fully extend the slide, the front edge of the slide is resting on the main floor and not subject to “bowing” when you walk on it.

[JRTJH]

...
I don't understand this. When the slide is fully extended, there's nothing under the slide floor at all except open space, so how would it be any weaker when retracted?

When the slide is retracted, the floor sits about 1.5" above the main coach floor. If you step on it, your weight forces the slide down toward the main coach floor. That puts "pulling force" on the ends of the slide floor where it's attached to the slide sidewalls. You can pull the sidewall/floor attachment apart, destroying your slide and you can split, crack the floor where you step on it.

If you step on the slide floor "at the ends" where it attaches to the sidewall, you can literally "rip the floor away from the sidewalls.

When the slide is fully extended, the "front edge" sits physically on the main coach floor, so it won't bow, won't pull on the slide edges and won't put force on the sidewalls if you step on the slide floor close to the sidewalls.

It's a matter of the slide floor "isn't properly braced or supported" when the slide is retracted. I hope this makes sense rather than making it "clear as mud"....

[MarkEHansen]

That concerns me. My slide operates solely from the inCommand screen. That screen is not particularly touch-friendly. In an average slide extension or retraction operation, it "sees" my finger slide off the tiny icon button two or three times before the operation is complete. Is this going to cause me a problem?

Is the resync procedure something an owner could do?



I don't understand this. When the slide is fully extended, there's nothing under the slide floor at all except open space, so how would it be any weaker when retracted?

@LHaven - our trailers use the BAL slide...

[chunker]

If you partially extend or retract a Schwintec slide, the motors get out of synch and the room starts to move unevenly (we call it caddywampus). Same applies to the power gear slide mechanism. There is a specific procedure to re synch both slide mechanisms.

If you look at the floor on many of the hydraulic or electric “through frame” slides you’ll notice it sits up OFF the main floor. We advise customers not to use that slide unless fully extended, as the floor is not supported and it’s made of particle board. I have been involved in replacing floor because they “cracked” from being walked on.

Have you seen any info about a slide weight limit? I have sat on the couch with a slide in but I weigh about 180# and don't bounce around. I also do not step or put weight on the edge because you can definitely see it's not supported. So far no issue with any RV but then again I am careful. I'll agree that the use can be an issue so plans are to limit time doing that. If the slide with a couch is fully in, is it supported better than a partial out? Are cable slides more prone to these issues over say an under floor or in frame electric or hydraulic?

Thanks

[LewisB]

For those new to cable slides here is a handy reference. I have it printed, in a folder and it goes with me in the trailer;

https://norcoind.com/bal/downloads/accuslide/accuslide_service-manual.pdf

This is a great resource - THANKS! I looked through all my paperwork and the sales data for our 2018 Raptor and could not find any mention of the brand of the slide out mechanisms. One of the things that popped up was a "chat" box with Keystone Customer Service. So, just for grins, I opened a chat, submitted my VIN number and asked about information on the slides for my trailer. Within about 10 seconds (yes, really!), she said "You have BAL Accuslides - would you like me to send you the manual?" Yes was the answer - I gave her my email address and had it in about another 20 seconds! I was shocked!

Thanks to the forum, sourdough, and Keystone Customer Service! With all the bad press Keystone sometimes gets on the forum, I thought this excellent service was noteworthy!

[FlyingAroundRV]

If you're not supposed to have weight in a slide when it's retracted, how does that square with those slides that have the full kitchen in them including refer, oven, etc?
I've looked at those trailers with all that weight in those extra wide slides and wondered how they would stand up.

[JRTJH]

If you're not supposed to have weight in a slide when it's retracted, how does that square with those slides that have the full kitchen in them including refer, oven, etc?
I've looked at those trailers with all that weight in those extra wide slides and wondered how they would stand up.

Probably a difference in how they're built, engineering and weight distribution with "static attached cabinets fastened to the walls and supporting the floor" vs "people walking on the floor with no "support from the walls."

[LHaven]

@LHaven - our trailers use the BAL slide...

That's good news, unless BAL has the same caveat for its slides. :ermm:

I found the service manual online, but it doesn't address do's and don'ts. I haven't found anything like an owner's manual online, and I didn't get one with the trailer.

[MarkEHansen]

Well, I was told not to step in the slide unless it is fully extended. I've decided that I can sit in the chairs (carefully) while it is fully retracted, but I'm gentle. However, I don't ever put any weight in the slide while it is partially extended. It's either all in or all out.

When I watch the slide go in or out, I watch the seals and you can really see that you don't want to go half way and reverse direction. It's okay if you stop once or more while bringing it in or out, as you're not changing directions and so not interfering with the folds of the seals.

[JRTJH]

That's good news, unless BAL has the same caveat for its slides. :ermm:

I found the service manual online, but it doesn't address do's and don'ts. I haven't found anything like an owner's manual online, and I didn't get one with the trailer.

Item #9 in the Keystone Owner's Manual, 2019 version, page 65:
9. DO NOT step on the floor of the slide out when the room is retracted. The slide out floor is not supported by the main floor and stepping on the floor may cause structural damage to the slide room.
If you don't have a copy of the Keystone Owner's Manual, you can download it here: https://www.keystonerv.com/owners/owners-manuals/ Just choose the manual that's closest to the year of manufacture of your trailer.

[Gegrad]

When I watch the slide go in or out, I watch the seals and you can really see that you don't want to go half way and reverse direction. It's okay if you stop once or more while bringing it in or out, as you're not changing directions and so not interfering with the folds of the seals.

This is what I do as well. You HAVE to stop with the slide partially extended to get on a ladder and clean/condition the exterior top wiper and seal (unless your arms are 42" long). But when I do that I keep going "in the direction I was heading" until it is either fully closed or fully open. I noticed just from observation if you extend partially then retract the wiper seals may not get fully turned around.

[moodman]

When my cable slide is out, the top wires have slack in them. Should all cables be tight, both when retracted and extended?

[rodgebone]

i looked at the keystone owner manual and it does state NOT to step on the slideout floor when retracted. but it also states that the slideout s/b actuated once or twice per week if used while fully extended for long periods of time (as an example I am a full timer and currently parked in the same spot for 3 months)....anyone know why the slideout would need to be retracted & re-extended twice a week in this scenario?

[ctbruce]

i looked at the keystone owner manual and it does state NOT to step on the slideout floor when retracted. but it also states that the slideout s/b actuated once or twice per week if used while fully extended for long periods of time (as an example I am a full timer and currently parked in the same spot for 3 months)....anyone know why the slideout would need to be retracted & re-extended twice a week in this scenario?To keep the mechanism exercised and the seals from adhering to the side of the trailer. Is it necessary to do it 2x per week? Maybe, maybe not. But it is the recommended timeframe. Not sure what it's based on. You'll have to decide what you want to do for yourself.

[rjsurfer]

When my cable slide is out, the top wires have slack in them. Should all cables be tight, both when retracted and extended?

Mine are the same way, a few inches of slack on the upper left cables.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Ron W

[moodman]

Mine are the same way, a few inches of slack on the upper left cables.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Ron W

Exactly. Does anyone know? My slide works, but is tightening them recommended?

[chuckster57]

If the slide is working fine, I would say leave it alone. There might be a specified “slackness” in the manual you can download. I haven’t had to adjust any so I can’t honestly say.

[jimborokz]

Exactly. Does anyone know? My slide works, but is tightening them recommended?

Don't tighten it, show a technician.
I had a cable break last fall. The repair shop said that it was too tight. They replaced under warranty and now it has some slack in it when full extended.

[travelin texans]

I follow the old saying, "if it ain't broke don't fix it"!
As for having them extended for long periods, treat the seals with Pledge furniture polish monthly to keep them clean & in good shape.

[sourdough]

Exactly. Does anyone know? My slide works, but is tightening them recommended?



This should help. Read page 33:

https://norcoind.com/bal/downloads/accuslide/accuslide_installation-manual.pdf

[rodgebone]

travelin texans As for having them extended for long periods, treat the seals with Pledge furniture polish monthly to keep them clean & in good shape.

yep, my thinking exactly. i use slideout seal conditioner monthly so not sure why i need to worry about retracting and extending every week. i think Keystone wants newbies to do this procedure to keep the seals from ripping under warranty (fair enuf). obviously in warm temps rubber is going to stick to the fiberglass siding. also, i always hose off the top of the slideout before retracting so no debris gets under the seals and into the mechanisms. not sure why the motor/cables/pulleys need exercising if there is no dirt getting in there. someone correct my thinking if ive got it wrong

[JRTJH]

travelin texans

yep, my thinking exactly. i use slideout seal conditioner monthly so not sure why i need to worry about retracting and extending every week. i think Keystone wants newbies to do this procedure to keep the seals from ripping under warranty (fair enuf). obviously in warm temps rubber is going to stick to the fiberglass siding. also, i always hose off the top of the slideout before retracting so no debris gets under the seals and into the mechanisms. not sure why the motor/cables/pulleys need exercising if there is no dirt getting in there. someone correct my thinking if ive got it wrong

There's a wee bit more to it than that, but yes, you're on the right path. Have you ever left a pair of pliers on the picnic table over the winter? Did they "open and close easily" in the spring? Corrosion on bearing surfaces, gear mechanism surfaces, electrical connections all need to be "exercised" to remain operational, not to mention "kinking of cables" left wrapped around a spindle/pulley for months on end.

Just as tires need to be flexed to keep the essential oils distributed throughout the rubber carcass, slides need to be exercised to keep the mechanical components "oiled, lubed, greased and working in unison"....

[rodgebone]

JRTJH There's a wee bit more to it than that, but yes, you're on the right path. Have you ever left a pair of pliers on the picnic table over the winter? Did they "open and close easily" in the spring? Corrosion on bearing surfaces, gear mechanism surfaces, electrical connections all need to be "exercised" to remain operational, not to mention "kinking of cables" left wrapped around a spindle/pulley for months on end.

Just as tires need to be flexed to keep the essential oils distributed throughout the rubber carcass, slides need to be exercised to keep the mechanical components "oiled, lubed, greased and working in unison"....

Fair enough...I certainly appreciate these talking points - the info and experience on this forum is worth every word. lack of use contributes to early component failure. ive seen it many times as a technician & tires are a perfect example. but really, how many of you actually exercise slideout mechanisms/seals every week & hook up to your TV just to run your wrig's tires down the road once a month? it does not shock me just how much maintenance procedures need to be done routinely as recommended per the mfg. and how many owners read the fine print to even KNOW it should be done in the first place?... still, any person would go insane doing EVERYTHING recommended in the owners manual (not to mention on top of your coffee maker, computer or car etc, etc etc). life is too short to worry about ALL of it. stuff needs to be done for sure but how much is too much?

There is fine line between being overly consumed caring for a major purchase like an RV versus what becomes overkill worrying about maintenance to the point it ruins the experience of having it in the first place. personally i am NOT going to hook up just to run my trailer down the road every month just so the tires get some flex after sitting in one place for 3 months but then again i might change my thinking after the first time i have a blow out causing major damage to the underside of my trailer. ill roll the dice. but how many owners run their slideouts in and out every week vs replacing the seals every few years? guess it comes down to individual situations and weather. and if you full time or are a weekend warrior. there is no standard procedure for everyone - we do our maintenance based on individual experience. but the mfg protocol seems overkill to me and just a way to let them off the warranty hook. how do we balance the cost of preventive maintenance versus repairs as they happen? the simple answer is you cant

[moodman]

Thanks for that link. But page 33 says "inside" and "outside" cables. But to me, I need to know what is meant by inside and outside being 'top" and "bottom" cables. What do they correlate to? Reading page 33 and you will know what I mean by my question.

[JRTJH]

Thanks for that link. But page 33 says "inside" and "outside" cables. But to me, I need to know what is meant by inside and outside being 'top" and "bottom" cables. What do they correlate to? Reading page 33 and you will know what I mean by my question.

If you extend your "cable slide" then walk outside, you'll see the "outside cables" attached to the slide box in 4 locations, top/bottom front/back of the slide. Then if you go inside, pull the slide in about 12", climb on top, you'll see the slide motor and the "origin of the "inside cables" that extend from the gearbox, to the pulleys at the front/rear of the slide, then down to pulleys where they "exit and become outside cables"....

They are "all the same cable assemblies, but the part exposed to the weather "outside the slide" is more readily subject to corrosion than the part that's "well protected, inside, next to the motor/gearbox.....