how do you strap down your Harleys?

[slimchancepistolero]

looking for a toy hauler and see they mostly all have the 6 floor tie downs BUT no way to bolt down the wheel chocks ... my bikes (2) weight about 700# each (Switchback and Springer Softtail ) ... i have looked at the Condor wheel chocks in box trailers but they were all bolted to the floor .... what do you do? and pixs would help .... thanxs

[Pull Toy]

We don't ride anymore, but we used Condor Pit Stops. We never needed to bolt them down, as the weight of the bike kept them in place. Worked great with the Goldwing, and the Road King. Never a problem. We placed one right up against the front wall, and one staggered back far enough to keep the handle bars separated. If you would really like to be secure, cut a couple 2x4s to place between the front wall, and the staggered chock. We strapped the rear down.The Pit Stop took care of the front.

The added advantage of the Pit Stop is that it works great on the ground too! It takes the "Harley Lean" out of the equation when doing maintenance or parking in a crowded garage, and they fold flat when not needed.

Good Luck,

[chunker]

When I had my Raptor 300MP I had an aluminum support made that I bolted the Harbor Freight steel chock to. Similar to the Condor but much less cost. That support extended across the width of the garage and was over the "D" rings on the side. "D" rings protruded up through slots I cut in the support which was 3/8" aluminum plate. Tractor style cinch pins through the "D" rings. Probably way overkill but it certainly never moved. That was a 2011 HD Ultra Limited, or a 13 Fatboy. On one trip I carried 2 HD Ultra Limiteds and mounted the second HF chock on a piece of plywood. It didn't move either but I used 4 ratchet straps per bike.

On the Raptor 356 that's on order, I plan to use the same assembly maybe cut down on width since it's be easier to move that way when I "set up camp" and want the garage for lounging around. I'm going to search my photos and see if I can find some pics and if I do I'll come back and post them.

[chunker]

Found a couple.

You'll notice the chock and straps are effective even with the trailer on it's side.

On the HD UL I added the fork tiedowns and took a section of 6x6 slightly cut down and put under the frame. The ratchet straps pulled the bike down firmly on the wood block and didn't compress the suspension. It also prevented the suspension from stroking on bumps loosening the straps.

[chunker]

deleted duplicate and couldn't pics rotated.

[Brentw]

Similar to Chunkier, used a 1 1/2 " square tube across the front d rings, used a j bolt to anchor them. My wheel chock is a wheel dock brand and has a 2 " square tube across the front that I slide over the 1 1/2 tubing. 1 strap around front wheel to chock, 1 on each triple tree, and one looped around rear tire pulling back.

[K_N_L]

I use a basic wheel chock from Northern Tool mounted a 2x2 section of 5/8 inch plywood. Used carriage bolts from the bottom up through plywood to bolt it together. The weight of the bike has always kept it in place. However I use 4 straps on the front forks - 2 pulling forward and 2 pulling back. Also have a section of 6x6 block under the frame to take any bounce out. Lastly one extra heavy strap through the rear wheel pulling back to keep the back anchored. It easy to carry out and store and no holds in the floor long term.

[roadglide]

I cut 2 plates drilled hoe big enough to fit 3/8 nut and brazed it flush drilling hoe through the floor into 4 inch wide strap secured to the under belly width of the garage that is part of lippert construction. I screwed the plate with nut to the strap. The 3/8 bolts go through the condor angle ends .

[slimchancepistolero]

thanxs guy .... that reassures me that using the 4 or 6 straps along with a condor type front wheel support will do the job .... just did NOT want to drill thru the floor and hit a tank

[roadglide]

thanxs guy .... that reassures me that using the 4 or 6 straps along with a condor type front wheel support will do the job .... just did NOT want to drill thru the floor and hit a tank

I have 10 ft garage with no garage bathroom I removed the Underbelly. The under belly will need be dropped down to make the connection.

[Hozco]

thanxs guy .... that reassures me that using the 4 or 6 straps along with a condor type front wheel support will do the job .... just did NOT want to drill thru the floor and hit a tank
I through bolted my Condor chock.. Just drop the under belly to make sure before you drill

[jim53066]

I bolted my wheel chock to the floor with these;
bolt inserts.jpg (https://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=25418&stc=1&d=1583378774)
They only go into the floor about as deep as the floor thickness.
Then I mount the wheel chock with hand knob bolts. I take it out when I remove the bike and cover them with a piece of carpet. They only stick above the floor about 1/8 inch.


Jim

[flybouy]

I bolted my wheel chock to the floor with these;
bolt inserts.jpg (https://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=25418&stc=1&d=1583378774)
They only go into the floor about as deep as the floor thickness.
Then I mount the wheel chock with hand knob bolts. I take it out when I remove the bike and cover them with a piece of carpet. They only stick above the floor about 1/8 inch.


Jim

Do you have a link to where these can be found?

[jim53066]

AMAZON or a woodworking store



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DT5KNY?pf_rd_p=ab873d20-a0ca-439b-ac45-cd78f07a84d8&pf_rd_r=KA1PCTDYXSC24CK9XVV6


https://www.amazon.com/Socell-16x1-1-Carbon-Steel-Screw/dp/B07VFDCMXT/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?cv_ct_cx=3%2F8+bolt+floor+inserts&keywords=3%2F8+bolt+floor+inserts&pd_rd_i=B07VFDCMXT&pd_rd_r=003cefe5-5eca-420b-ac34-63d3e0e99fa1&pd_rd_w=O8mgy&pd_rd_wg=5BsbC&pf_rd_p=a6d018ad-f20b-46c9-8920-433972c7d9b7&pf_rd_r=MPXD3BGC8TGXQRSR6SS0&psc=1&qid=1583391869

[Brentw]

I bolted my wheel chock to the floor with these;
bolt inserts.jpg (https://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=25418&stc=1&d=1583378774)
They only go into the floor about as deep as the floor thickness.
Then I mount the wheel chock with hand knob bolts. I take it out when I remove the bike and cover them with a piece of carpet. They only stick above the floor about 1/8 inch.


Jim

Handy, good idea.

[bbells]

I sold my Harley Super Glide and bought a Can-Am Ryker 3 wheel motorcycle. This ended all my tie down problems.

[MN-Clark]

I didn't want to try drilling thru the garage floor either. So I use wheel chocks front and rear strapped together. Four or six tie down straps on the Road King. No problems do far.

[Spooled-up]

I’m getting this in a couple weeks:

Www.boltiton.com

No drilling and comes out of the garage in minutes once you get it set up.

I emailed the owner and received a reply in minutes on a Saturday.

[Rdynbama]

I use Baxley LA chock
And a 1 1/4 inch conduit clamp and a j bolt to anchor it to the floor over one of tie downs and use two ratchet straps pulling forward and it hasn’t moved
According to the guy I talked to at the manufacturer the j bolt wasn’t really needed but I did it just to make me feel better

[Rdynbama]

http://baxleycompanies.com

I carry a 2003 Electra Glide

[Dan Lockwood]

I'd like to add my 2¢ on the subject of Harley specific tiedowns.

Please take a look at my thread about installing and the use of the B&W Biker Bar. They make the bike clamps for your two bikes.

I highly recommend the Biker Bar!

https://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40502&highlight=harley

I have two installed in my Raptor and am very happy with them. I went a BIT overkill on the installation, but it's what I do... :)

I found this just now for a Dyna frame: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/596397981205530/

It's missing the underside mounting plates, but as said in the ad, they're available from B&W as parts. At $75, this is a steal. I paid $200 each for mine on Marketplace and got all the mounting plates.

Do a nation wide Facebook Marketplace search and you'll find many for sale and some for Softail frames and touring frames etc.

As I said in my thread that's linked above, I talked with and saw pictures of Harley touring bikes that were in rollover accidents while attached in a trailer to a Biker Bar, and they were still attached and unhurt afterwards. That will NOT happen with any other type of tiedown straps with front wheel chocks.

The choice is yours and there are many suggestions in my thread and this one as well, so chose wisely my friend... :)

[lonewolftx]

I use pingel wheel chicks. The brackets are low profile and with the chocks stored the carpet in my TH covers them up. Very minor bumps in the rug. Screws are short enough not to reach the fuel tanks under garage. There isn’t that much Presure on the wheel chick when in place. All on the tie down straps.

[05Fatboy]

I mounted a Harbor Freight chock made similar to the Condor chock to a sheet of 5/8" plywood long enough for the rear tire to also sit on it,so the weight of the bike would not make a divot in the floor. I used plywood bolt inserts to secure the chock to the plywood and 2 tie-downs on the front forks so as not to compress them and a custom block of wood to match the height under the swing-arm then 2 straps to the swing-arm so the rear won't dance to either side. The 4 tie-downs are anchored to the d-rings in the floor.

[roadglide]

[QUOTE=lonewolftx;380801]I use pingel wheel chicks. The brackets are low profile and with the chocks stored the carpet in my TH covers them up. Very minor bumps in the rug. Screws are short enough not to reach the fuel tanks under garage. There isn’t that much Presure on the wheel chick when in place. All on the tie down straps.[/QUOTE. Lonewolf a few post before this one you will see pingel mounts I installed chock make a nice target . Harley Davison sells the Pingel chock kit.

[rs1718]

I used this. Very good system
https://www.boltiton.com/product-category/trailers-and-toy-hauler-kits/

[deanos07hd]

Consider the B&W Biker Bar. Works fantastic. NO straps needed. We've traveled thousands of miles with zero issues. You can check this out on YouTube.

[chunker]

Bottom line retaining systems get like an oil thread on a motorcycle forum, "mine is the best cause I have it". With each system there are advantages and disadvantages. With the Condor type, over center capture device, it can be problematic to get out if you have the bike in too deep and/or you are trying to back out uphill. But very stable it securing the bike while you strap it in. I have no experience with the biker bar but I would not use it without straps, PERIOD. I'll use my HF chock in the bracket I made cause I have it and it works. If you flip the RV on it's side it's unlikely that anything inside will be unscathed since the weight of the bike in the collision is likely to rip the chock out of the floor. In a rollover accident, motorcycle condition is probably the least of your worries.

Ease of loading, unloading, and stable/safe while in normal operations is what you hope to achieve. Most of the systems discussed here will do that and it becomes a choice of how much $$$$ you wish to spend.

[HDroadglide]

Just like others I placed my Condor against the wall in all three of my toy haulers and tied my Road Glide Ultra down and it never moved. I have been hauling bikes around for 14 years in Toy haulers.

[AbHDToyHauler]

Bottom line retaining systems get like an oil thread on a motorcycle forum, "mine is the best cause I have it". With each system there are advantages and disadvantages. With the Condor type, over center capture device, it can be problematic to get out if you have the bike in too deep and/or you are trying to back out uphill. But very stable it securing the bike while you strap it in. I have no experience with the biker bar but I would not use it without straps, PERIOD. I'll use my HF chock in the bracket I made cause I have it and it works. If you flip the RV on it's side it's unlikely that anything inside will be unscathed since the weight of the bike in the collision is likely to rip the chock out of the floor. In a rollover accident, motorcycle condition is probably the least of your worries.

Ease of loading, unloading, and stable/safe while in normal operations is what you hope to achieve. Most of the systems discussed here will do that and it becomes a choice of how much $$$$ you wish to spend.

Well I have experience with Biker Bar as do many others. I have seen it displayed with an 800 lb. harley attached and then hung upside down for the entire length of a a show without incident. Straps break too. Only downside to Biker bar is you do have to drill holes to mount it. That wasn't as big an issue as I could get my hands up to put plates in. Also certainly not cheapest system but well worth the money to me. I have two installed for years and can move them back and forth to my Motorcycle hauling trailer or Toyhauler.
If there is a big accident where trailer is destroyed bikes probably aren't biggest thing on your mind. I agree though , to each their own. Whatever works and lets you sleep at night.

[HDroadglide]

I also add a extra straps in the front just in case of strap failure.

[mikz86ta]

Ours has a washer/dryer front center in our garage. Fuzion 420.
I took an single aluminum bed ramp and laid it across the garage, but against the bottom of the washer/dryer. Took both bikes (FZ8 and R6) side by side and rested the front tire against the ramp. The ramp is about 2-2.5" thick. Then just strapped the bikes in starting with the front straps pulling forward on the bikes against the ramp. We have Canyon Dancer handlebar strap mounts for both bikes. Once both are perfectly upright....and to keep the bikes initially straight and upright, I have paddock rear stands....I then remove the rear stands and strap the rear down at the rearmost attach points. Never had an issue.

I do however intend to make a removable aluminum cross beam that will have some locking wheel chocks attached.
Our bikes weigh 420lbs and 470lbs.

[Tatanka Ob Waci]

We use ride in wheel chocks and four tie down straps in the front and two in the back and they stay where they are. This was after trial and error and one bike getting banged up to tune of $5,000.00 of repair.

[jaxglide]

Consider the B&W Biker Bar. Works fantastic. NO straps needed. We've traveled thousands of miles with zero issues. You can check this out on YouTube.



Is that a Montana? Which series ?
Is it pretty easy to mount the biker bar to the rig?

[Dan Lockwood]

Is that a Montana? Which series ?
Is it pretty easy to mount the biker bar to the rig?

jax, good morning.

Each style toy hauler will be different in the placement of gas tank(s) under the belly and the length of your garage also will make a difference.

I measured from the approximate area I would be placing the hand removable lower clamp bar on the Harley and then to the centerline of the rear wheel. My garage has the taper at the door so I wanted my rear wheel to be up past that and on the level part of the floor.

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL846/863774/24841920/414342016.jpg

I have both of my lower Biker Bar mounts side by side. In trailers they normally stagger the bikes for handlebar clearance etc. But I have a newer Harley and an older Harley, so they work with this arrangement.

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL846/863774/24841920/414349844.jpg

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL846/863774/24841920/414349842.jpg

You can see that my two bikes have different heights and clear just fine.

"IF" I were to have tried to stagger the two mounts, I would have had to remove one of my gas tanks for clearance under the floor for drilling etc. Well at least the way I mounted mine I would have had to.

B&W says that any floor strong enough for tie downs and to support a bike, is strong enough to mount to. But.... I wanted added assurance and made up an under floor angle iron mounting system that sandwiched my Biker Bar lower plates. This way I had heavy angle iron from the center tie down channel under the floor all the way out to the main frame "I" beams. This in my mind gives me the best possible installation.

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL846/863774/24841920/414342008.jpg

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL846/863774/24841920/414342013.jpg

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL846/863774/24841920/414342010.jpg

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL846/863774/24841920/414342009.jpg

The two smaller black plates with the two bolts into the angle iron are the plates that will remain under the floor. I believe the simple way to mount the Biker Bar is this, assemble it like I have it, but without the angle iron to start. Then make sure that you do have clearance under the floor to at least get your arm up into the area to put nuts on the bottom side of the two outer plates. Then measure accurately before drilling. Place the assembled system on the floor and drill through the plates into the floor. You'll now have the four outside mounting holes. The standard bolts are 5/16", but I went up to grade 5 3/8" carriage bolts for a bit more security. Take the plates off and mark the larger holes for the top side bolt down bolts. Before drilling, set the top side mounting plate over the marked holes to confirm they are centered with the plate. Once you're happy they're good, drill the holes. I started with a 1/2" drill and upsized as I was sure of the centering. If you're off just a bit with the smaller bits, you can use them to sort of mill out to the side if necessary to get them perfectly aligned. I up'd to 3/4" so the bolts went in easier and I also had 3/4" plastic plugs to fill the holes for storage.

B&W recommends that if possible, one edge of the lower sub floor plates be attached to one of the floor cross supports, but in my case I didn't have any that were up against the floor. I think trailers tend to place the floor wood over angles in the frame so the wood touches the cross braces, but not so in my Raptor.

If you're only doing one bike, I would mount it to the right side of the garage floor, the side my orange bike is mounted to as this seems to be the "light" side of most 5er's.

When my lower Biker Bar mounts are removed, there is NO upward protrusion into the carpet. I pulled the grade 5 carriage bolts into the floor flush and the 3/4" holes I drilled for the 5/8" attachment bolts are also smooth with the floor. I have little plastic flush plugs I put in the 3/4" holes to keep out any bugs etc. I also have the taper part of the garage floor as a full width under floor metal storage bin. This is where I keep my tools and Biker Bar mounts.

Again, go back to my other thread about the mounting and it shows the cross angle irons attached to the center channel and the outer "I" beams.

https://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40502&highlight=harley (https://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40502&highlight=harley)

This really isn't rocket science, I just do things a bit over the top sometimes.

The others with the recommendations of a roll in wheel chock with straps is a great way to haul bikes, as long as they're really cross tied. I had four straps on my Harley and the rear wheel slid sideways and let the bike twist even while the front tire was in a wheel chock. When this happened the bike fell over and the handlebar touched the wall of the trailer. I eventually started screwing a 2"x4" on each side of the rear tire to maintain centering while hauling. I know many guys hauling with tie downs and they're very happy with them and trust them.

But there's just something about a true mechanical attachment with the Biker Bar that gives me that added warm and fuzzy about the setup. Each to their own and good luck with whatever method you choose to use.

[chunker]

jax, good morning.

Each style toy hauler will be different in the placement of gas tank(s) under the belly and the length of your garage also will make a difference.


If you're only doing one bike, I would mount it to the right side of the garage floor, the side my orange bike is mounted to as this seems to be the "light" side of most 5er's.

Wse.

I've crawled under a few GD Momentums and Keystone Raptors lately and the gas tanks tend to be mid ship in the garage. Does your trailer have one or two tanks because your biker bar appears to be mounted pretty far aft. The trailers I looked at had 2 tanks and the forward one was maybe 5' from the garage front wall.

I'm supposed to pick up my Raptor 356 Wednesday and barring any problems with my PDI, I'm going straight to the CAT scales for a double weighing. I've already weighed the truck loaded for travel and in addition to weighing the whole thing on the scales, will weigh it half on which will give me individual axle/corner weights. I'm hoping to be able to load in the middle so we'll see.

My motorhome is 700# heavier on the right side so hoping the trailer weight difference isn't that much.

My older Raptor had 2 in floor storage compartments in the dovetail section, only get one now but it is handy for the towing accessories. Nice looking setup you have. I'll use what I have for the time being but on my summer trip, I'll check out any other TH to see what they use and maybe I'll find a Biker bar user.

[Dan Lockwood]

I've crawled under a few GD Momentums and Keystone Raptors lately and the gas tanks tend to be mid ship in the garage. Does your trailer have one or two tanks because your biker bar appears to be mounted pretty far aft. The trailers I looked at had 2 tanks and the forward one was maybe 5' from the garage front wall.

I'm supposed to pick up my Raptor 356 Wednesday and barring any problems with my PDI, I'm going straight to the CAT scales for a double weighing. I've already weighed the truck loaded for travel and in addition to weighing the whole thing on the scales, will weigh it half on which will give me individual axle/corner weights. I'm hoping to be able to load in the middle so we'll see.

My motorhome is 700# heavier on the right side so hoping the trailer weight difference isn't that much.

My older Raptor had 2 in floor storage compartments in the dovetail section, only get one now but it is handy for the towing accessories. Nice looking setup you have. I'll use what I have for the time being but on my summer trip, I'll check out any other TH to see what they use and maybe I'll find a Biker bar user.

Chunker,

The CVO Harley forum I've been on for 12 years has many toy haulers among them and most said the right side is the light side.... BUT! There's always exceptions to any rule. If possible, I would mount to the light side. And in your case that gives you more entrance and get around room with the bike to the left side. I highly doubt I will haul both bikes very often and I have a choice then to load on either side.

My '12 Raptor 395LEV has two 30 gallon gas tanks. Between the two tanks crosswise, there's a metal truss of sorts that does not go up to the floor, but does get to about 1/4" from it as it's welded in between the two side "I" beams. The center channel tie down and floor support also fastens to the cross truss. I mounted just to the front side of the truss as that's the only access point I had. On the right side I could have taken out the spare tire and mounted maybe another foot forward, but as long as I'm ahead of the taper in the floor by about 6", it really doesn't matter for me.

My rear storage is full width between the two "I" beams and is about 10" deep in front and around 6" deep in the rear.

If the forward generator tank was empty, it would not have been too hard to remove for access to the bolts, but I'm happy with my install the way it is. If you were hauling two late model dressers, they would not fit in my installation as the handlebars would hit each other. But as I said for my two Harleys it works out just fine and I have still have my washer/drier combo in the center and can move around without any issues in the garage.

Good luck with however you mount your bike, be it tie downs or some other mechanical means as with the B&W Biker Bar setup.

Let us know how you turned out. Have a great week!

[michaelrc51]

That B&W looks like a nice setup. also looks very similar to the Pitbull Trailer Restraint System. I've been using many different chocks and systems over the years, I've found the Pitbull setup to be great. It makes loading and unloading of motorcycles very easy and quick.
Once loaded you just throw a strap somewhere on the front end, some people don't even do that. All depends if you're worried about it bouncing high enough to hit something.
It does require mounting to the floor though.

https://www.pit-bull.com/motorcycle-trailer-restraints/harley-davidson-trailer-restraints/trailer-restraint-system-harley-softail-fatboy-years-tbd-f0075kn-000

Before the Pitbull system I was using a Baxley chock and that was also a great setup. It can be mounted to the floor or not if you have something that will stop it from moving forward. It may even work without anything as the legs have rubber pieces on them that may prevent it from sliding.
But, it's pretty simple as well.....just ride in and then strap the bike down.