Roadmaster active suspension or air bags

[gspman]

Any one have experience with the roadmaster active suspension aid?

I have a 2008 chev silverado 2500 HD 4x4 SB and was planning to add air bags, then while doing research i found the "Roadmaster Active Suspension" kit.
They appear much simpler to install and i have not found any bad reviews ?

I am concerned that the spring eye end could possibly pop off during spring arch...Is that warrented ?

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance
Scott

[Fishsizzle]

Any one have experience with the roadmaster active suspension aid?

I have a 2008 chev silverado 2500 HD 4x4 SB and was planning to add air bags, then while doing research i found the "Roadmaster Active Suspension" kit.
They appear much simpler to install and i have not found any bad reviews ?

I am concerned that the spring eye end could possibly pop off during spring arch...Is that warrented ?

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance
Scott

What are you hoping to gain?

[Brentw]

Hmmm.. read thru that, I don't think that axel wrap is a concern for our service. And I can't quite see how there is any load carrying ability with that arrangement. If you are adding airbags with a manual fill, not a lot of work.

[flybouy]

I put a set of Roadmasters on a second hand Dodge conversion van that I bought back in the 1980's. Replaced the pitiful little gas tank with an oversized (I think it was 36 gal) tank. The already weak rear leafs sagged even more after that. The Roadmaster worked well but did stiffen the ride. Back then the only real alternative was air shocks.

I have air bags on both trucks. Also have a an on board high volume pump and tank for the train horns. I added 12vdc solenoids to raise/lower the air bags with control in the cab and in the bed. Makes hitching up real quick and painless. The Roadmaster is a mechanical adjustment so making changes for towing or not towing would get old real quick.

JMHO

[JRTJH]

I suppose different areas of the country have different views on how to "increase spring capacity" on vehicles. When I was "young and full of vinegar" (not what I really wanted to say, but the forum has rules that we have to follow)…. Anyway, when I was young, our solution was "overload shocks" or "load leveling shocks" (HD shocks with a spring assist coil installed on it). Our reasoning for not using the roadmaster or similar systems was this: If the springs are weak, "bending them" with a link or a spring assist device" wouldn't "carry any more load" but rather just "bends the existing spring to make it function tighter"… Installing overload shocks will increase the spring capacity by "adding to" not "bending up" the existing suspension....

Anyway, if you're trying to increase GVWR, neither system will increase the GVWR one pound. IMHO, the roadmaster style system uses the existing components to "spring tighter" while the overload shocks "supplement the suspension components" to actually strengthen the system.

[gspman]

not planning on increasing weight carrying capacity, more interested in stability in "cross winds" drift by passing semis'...ect
reducing what little squat i do have..

[gspman]

i think i will stick with my original plan and put some bags on

[Fishsizzle]

i think i will stick with my original plan and put some bags on

Might take a look at Torklift. They are made to engage your overload springs “quicker” which will help with sag and use the suspension to stiffen it up.

I will say this, I’ve had bags on almost every truck
I’ve owned to “level” the ride. With my current 5th wheel, I have to hit just the right PSI. To much and the thing is scary. The suspension isn’t used and it’s just rubber bags and they sway big time, it takes to much weight OFF they springs.

Our suspension was designed to work, if we use it right.

[gspman]

good to know

[flybouy]

Might take a look at Torklift. They are made to engage your overload springs “quicker” which will help with sag and use the suspension to stiffen it up.

I will say this, I’ve had bags on almost every truck
I’ve owned to “level” the ride. With my current 5th wheel, I have to hit just the right PSI. To much and the thing is scary. The suspension isn’t used and it’s just rubber bags and they sway big time, it takes to much weight OFF they springs.

Our suspension was designed to work, if we use it right.

What truck gave you "sway big time" with air bags and what air bags? I'm interested because I've used them on 3 different brand trucks (the "big" 3) and never encountered this.

It's been my experience that I can add about 30 psi and it makes the ride more stable but I do not use the air bags to "level" the truck. I use the air bags to make backing into the driveway easier (it's a steep driveway off of a crowned road with a rounded curb so a sizeable dip) and make it easier to hitch/unhitch.

To the OP: If you are looking to reduce sway than first look at your hitch. Make certain the hitch is properly installed and adjusted. If all is well with the hitch than a shock upgrade on the truck may help. The O.E.M. shocks are typically engineered for a better ride. Replacement sway bars and bushings are available as well. Any upgrade in suspension will alter the ride and typically "stiffen" the ride.

[JRTJH]

Marshall,

One "limitation" to air bag systems is the way they are plumbed. If they are individually filled with separate tubing to each air bag, then they are two "independent systems" and won't transfer air pressure between the bags.

On the other hand, if both are filled through a common valve/tubing system, unless there's a "one way valve between the bags, when you enter a curve and the vehicle "leans toward one side" the air pressure will be greater in the bag on that side and "push air to the other bag". If the curve/leaning is great enough, the bags can actually "lift the high side as air is pushed out of the bag on the low side, making the lean/sway even worse.

So, the "shortcut to inflate both bags with the same PSI by a common fill tube, may actually cause control issues with heavy loads on tight curves.

[flybouy]

Marshall,

One "limitation" to air bag systems is the way they are plumbed. If they are individually filled with separate tubing to each air bag, then they are two "independent systems" and won't transfer air pressure between the bags.

On the other hand, if both are filled through a common valve/tubing system, unless there's a "one way valve between the bags, when you enter a curve and the vehicle "leans toward one side" the air pressure will be greater in the bag on that side and "push air to the other bag". If the curve/leaning is great enough, the bags can actually "lift the high side as air is pushed out of the bag on the low side, making the lean/sway even worse.

So, the "shortcut to inflate both bags with the same PSI by a common fill tube, may actually cause control issues with heavy loads on tight curves.

I guess that could happen if your hitched up and driving a slalom course at high speed but I have not heard of that happening in a practical setting. Can't imagine that tiny airline transferring a high enough volume of air in a short period of time. I'n my thinking and maneuver that would shift enough weight for that scenario to happen would be very short before the driver corrected or flips the rig.

I've been using them for years and have had to make some "radical steering maneuvers" to avoid objects, animals, drivers, and have never experienced a "big time sway". Maybe I'm lucky, maybe my suspension is tighter, or maybe I'm a slower driver.

[roadglide]

I had redo my tubing because One valve did both bags causing a terrible rocking from side to side . I wonder how the system works with on demand air from a compressor ?

[sourdough]

I think the issue requires more info IMO. The vehicle is 12 years old. All I can find is that the trailer is a "cougar".

How many miles on the 3/4 ton? How big is that trailer? The concern is "push" from semis and cross winds. I pulled a 10k gvw trailer with a newer 3/4 ton without those issues. So I'm wondering.

On a 12 year old 4x4, if used much, I would think you would want new shocks, springs, good LT tires, maybe sway bar, etc. Age kills suspension components as well as miles. If the suspension components are operating as well as a NEW 2500 suspension all should be good up to about 10k. I've used air bags and they are a good addition but the truck itself should be sound beforehand IMO.

[Jfreek65]

I think the issue requires more info IMO. The vehicle is 12 years old. All I can find is that the trailer is a "cougar".



How many miles on the 3/4 ton? How big is that trailer? The concern is "push" from semis and cross winds. I pulled a 10k gvw trailer with a newer 3/4 ton without those issues. So I'm wondering.



On a 12 year old 4x4, if used much, I would think you would want new shocks, springs, good LT tires, maybe sway bar, etc. Age kills suspension components as well as miles. If the suspension components are operating as well as a NEW 2500 suspension all should be good up to about 10k. I've used air bags and they are a good addition but the truck itself should be sound beforehand IMO.



I was about to ask similar questions. I have an 04 2500 with the expected miles of a daily driver, but new Bilsteins was plenty to solve any semi push I previously experienced

[travelin texans]

I think the issue requires more info IMO. The vehicle is 12 years old. All I can find is that the trailer is a "cougar".

How many miles on the 3/4 ton? How big is that trailer? The concern is "push" from semis and cross winds. I pulled a 10k gvw trailer with a newer 3/4 ton without those issues. So I'm wondering.

On a 12 year old 4x4, if used much, I would think you would want new shocks, springs, good LT tires, maybe sway bar, etc. Age kills suspension components as well as miles. If the suspension components are operating as well as a NEW 2500 suspension all should be good up to about 10k. I've used air bags and they are a good addition but the truck itself should be sound beforehand IMO.

No mention of length, weight, model of RV or whether there's a WDH with sway control connected & properly adjusted.

[Fishsizzle]

What truck gave you "sway big time" with air bags and what air bags? I'm interested because I've used them on 3 different brand trucks (the "big" 3) and never encountered this.

It's been my experience that I can add about 30 psi and it makes the ride more stable but I do not use the air bags to "level" the truck. I use the air bags to make backing into the driveway easier (it's a steep driveway off of a crowned road with a rounded curb so a sizeable dip) and make it easier to hitch/unhitch.

To the OP: If you are looking to reduce sway than first look at your hitch. Make certain the hitch is properly installed and adjusted. If all is well with the hitch than a shock upgrade on the truck may help. The O.E.M. shocks are typically engineered for a better ride. Replacement sway bars and bushings are available as well. Any upgrade in suspension will alter the ride and typically "stiffen" the ride.


Current truck, has 2 manual valve fill at the rear (1 each side). If I put more than 30 psi in them, it takes the load off the rear springs and the truck is freaky.

We have had to put the whole set up on the back burner as life continues to throw curves at us. Might keep the Alpine, might not.

[Greggde]

I have had both on five different occasions , Two P/U and three custom built 4X4 Vans, and would say they each have their virtues with my very slight Nod going to the Air Bags .
Greggde

[fulltilt]

I had a 2012 GMC 2500HD as a tow vehicle for 8 years, hauling 4 different 5th wheels over the course of that time. The truck did the work with zero complaint & the only downside was occasionally the rear suspension would bottom out on bridge expansion joints or unseen pot holes. I installed the Firestone Air Bag kit in the rear with individual air lines to prevent this. The 5 lbs of air that Firestone required as a minimum was impossible to maintain with the type of fittings that they supply, it would leak out over the course of a day. I would change that to pneumatic compression fittings right from the start or go to a suitable alternative. The type they supply is identical to a slip joint style that you would find on a domestic water connection for your refrigerator ice maker. I found on that truck with the hitch loads that I had, that 8 lbs of air added to the air bags unloaded, would become 28 lbs of air when the trailer was connected… this seemed to be the “sweet spot” where the factory springs would still function & yet prevent “bottoming out”. My preference was to maintain 5 lbs of air always, a little hard when empty, but excellent when loaded. I opted eventually to pick up a set of 3500 rear springs with the brackets etc from a wrecking yard & install those.

[bbells]

I use the Firestone airbags. Took about an hour to install both sides.

[Fourbtgait]

I just installed a set today.
2016 F150, 1868 cargo capacity. Bilstine 5100 shocks, front set 3/4” higher than oem. C rated all season tires.
Trailer 22’ Passport, average tongue weight 900. Equalizer hitch set up properly.
I had Firestone air bags last vehicle, forget yo let air out, rough ride. Plumbed together. If you travel off camber situations like roads, gullys, etc, yes, air bleeds to higher side of vehicle. Some people also install air bags to increase capacity, I didn’t.
I put the RAS on not to gain weight capacity but-to “stiffen” the rear leaves. Raised back of truck 3/4” which brought it back to original rake without the Bilstines. I typically carry 300-500 lbs bed of truck daily at work, that sets truck down so all leaves were active. Not much reserve capacity. Ford softened springs for city drivers wanting a truck.
Ride is no stiffer than before. “Feels” to have tiny bit less body roll but was not installed for that. No reason for Hellwig for me as I know it’s not a sports car plus I want the axle travel for cross country travel.
Haven’t towed with it yet but the reviews on F-150 forum say good things.
If I still had a 250 with 3500 lb capacity, no, I wouldn’t put them on. I don’t max out tow or weight capacity.

[gearhead]

The running on the air bags instead of springs issue is discussed occasionally on truck camper forums. The truck will get mushy and have more sway. Truck campers with their higher center of gravity are effected by this. Usually the truck is overloaded and the owner is trying to get it back to level.
My one experience with air bags was OEM on a Class C motorhome. I didn't like them.
Torklift Stableloads may be a better solution.
https://www.torklift.com/blog/entry/factory-suspension-vs-stableloads-vs-airbags

[JohnMpcny]

Save money and lot of hassle just get sumo springs. I have them and love them, I may also add them to the camper this year also.

https://www.supersprings.com/learn-more/rv-suspension/

[ChuckS]

I’ve run Airlift 5000s on the last three GMC trucks Ive owned. Wouldn’t be without them. Currently on a 2007 GMC club cab 4x4 short bed. Bilstein shocks put on at about 90K. Run about 25 psi empty and 60 when loaded. Ride is stable and smooth. I tow pretty much in the Mtns and in a lot of side winds. Not one issue with stability and ride control

[Scott G]

I have the Roadmaster kit on my 07.5 2500 hd Duramax and love it. I pull a 32' cougar and have a 2000lb camper I put in the back of it. It raised the rear up a bit but sits perfect with the truck camper and the fifth wheel on it. The ride is slightly rougher empty but still very comfortable. The body roll was reduced and the ride very stable and comfortable while loaded.