Floor heating duct hose

[ray6501]

Has anyone replaced the hose in the floor for the heater in a 2016 2400BH ? Would like to know the easiest way to do that. Mine was ripped about 4" from the register and needs replaced.

[chuckster57]

If the ducting is routed through any frame cross members, then you’ll have to open up the underbelly. If your underbelly is riveted in place, just pry them out and replace with self tapping hex head screws.

[ray6501]

Thank you for the reply. It doesn't go though any cross members. It just sort of lays in there.

[chuckster57]

If that's the case you might get lucky just attaching the new duct to the old and thread it through. Start with extra so you have enough to pull through and trim to fit.

[skids]

Can’t you devise a way to reach into the duct from the inside with duct tape? It’s handy-mans secret tool! :)

[chuckster57]

Can’t you devise a way to reach into the duct from the inside with duct tape? It’s handy-mans secret tool! :)


I wonder if the duct tape might start coming off quickly with the hot air blowing across it. I use aluminum tape and try to keep it on the outside of the duct.

[Bruce J]

I have a 2016 2810BH Extended Season that I removed the underliner to replace the heater ducts to the floor registers due to a mouse nesting in one. I have 4 furnace outlets: 4" to the front bedroom floor register, 4" to the mid cabin floor register, 4" to a wall register towards the rear, and the 2" tube that goes to the area between the floor and the underliner. The 2" tubing is only about 3' long and just ends with an opening loose in the volume, no passing through stringers or mounts.

I know there are other ways for mice to enter the cabin from this volume, but I am screening the end of the new 2" tube I am installing, rather than leaving this perfect mouse tunnel into the heat box. In your case you should be able to just gently insert a similar length tube into the hole in the floor with a 90° bend in some direction and duplicate what was there originally.

Since I removed my underliner, I am extending this tube and splitting it to better reach the areas of the fresh tank in front, and the two tanks in the rear, with screens at both exits. This may reduce a bit of flow, but I will be happier with where it is flowing to.

I know the floor is not air tight, but I wonder if there is a "designed" exit for the floor volume that this 2" tube is heating. I was going to seal the openings where electrical, gas and water enter the cabin, but I wonder if I should screen them instead of solid gap filling. Same thing with the gap in the underliner where the angled beams for the hitch meet the fore and aft frame members, which is where the mouse / mice entered. Air tight (if that were possible) would build up pressure and then not allow any flow. I know air tight is not possible, just throwing that out there.

I know I do not want to deal with mice again, if I can help it. (Insert your laugh here.)

Thoughts anyone?

[jasin1]

If you decide on using foil tape I would use this kind, it’s the only foil tape I’m allowed to use as far as building codes in MD..It holds up far better in extreme environments.Wont break down and come loose. I’ve even seen standard foil tape just dry up and lose its adhesive properties in attics and crawl spaces. You can find it cheaper If you have access to hvac supply houses

[BigBearRick]

If you decide on using foil tape I would use this kind, it’s the only foil tape I’m allowed to use as far as building codes in MD..It holds up far better in extreme environments.Wont break down and come loose. I’ve even seen standard foil tape just dry up and lose its adhesive properties in attics and crawl spaces. You can find it cheaper If you have access to hvac supply houses

I can't second that tape strong enough! I used to maintain equipment in a controlled environment greenhouse. Amazing hold power, and just never deteriorates.