Cougar OTG Solar Package

[rlh1957]

Anyone had the solar system put in that is optional? Can’t find info other than a Keystone pitch talking about the OTG solar camping package.

Or has anyone put another solar package in and used the solar prep and wiring there? The OTG prep on 2020 Cougar half ton 5th wheel wires in 3 outlets that an inverter will feed.

[foldbak]

I was wondering the same thing. Plug and play? Is there some kind of controller built in?

[rlh1957]

Removed that black dome shaped cover that makes you think Keystone has some sort of controller, inverter or at least some wire terminations... Nada, Zip, Nothing. Makes a goo emergency water bowl for the dog.
They have done nothing but sell you an idea.

[sonofcy]

Anyone had the solar system put in that is optional? Can’t find info other than a Keystone pitch talking about the OTG solar camping package.

Or has anyone put another solar package in and used the solar prep and wiring there? The OTG prep on 2020 Cougar half ton 5th wheel wires in 3 outlets that an inverter will feed.

I will be putting in a full timer solar system and all the prep is good for is pulling the real wires down the gland and access way. The wires they provide are too small for me and for most. It sounds like you need a course on solar, most folks that don't study ahead of time make mistakes. Firt thing is an energy worksheet, what will you need, then how much storage (1 day, 2 day, more) followed by solar calculated by time of year and latitude. Example 1,000 watts of solar panel in December generates 73 KwH in Phoenix but only 16 at the Canadian/US border. Lot's to learn and lot's of wrong/misguided information.

[rlh1957]

Thanks. I'd be interested in your setup when designed.

Are you saying the Keystone Cougar roof cables are easy to pull out? I saw today where they come into the battery hold area up ftont and they are 8gauge. I think that's slim for all but maybe 250 watt panel coming down. That run has to be at least 15 'to 20' so 8 gauge is stretching it.

[sonofcy]

Thanks. I'd be interested in your setup when designed.

Are you saying the Keystone Cougar roof cables are easy to pull out? I saw today where they come into the battery hold area up ftont and they are 8gauge. I think that's slim for all but maybe 250 watt panel coming down. That run has to be at least 15 'to 20' so 8 gauge is stretching it.

You don't pull them out, you hook up the wires out of the roof combiner box to the existing cables and pull the new wires. Mine don't go anywhere near the batteries, they end in a cavity where a charge controller would go and it's output would go to the batteries.Since I will be installing 6 to 8 170 watt panels and the combiner to MPPT controller is 20 ft the wire needs go be 2/0 for the 113 amps it will carry.
Here is a link for the start of my system, I will add more solar and maybe less battery or not. NOTE, this is for a full timer and has a residential fridge that uses 1.5kWh per day
https://amsolar.com/rv-complete-solar-systems/99-trlsig

[foldbak]

My 2018 cougar only has a plug on the bottom of the pass through door. That's what I'm referring to.

[sonofcy]

My 2018 cougar only has a plug on the bottom of the pass through door. That's what I'm referring to.

Sorry, I don't know what that is or what it does.

[chuckster57]

My 2018 cougar only has a plug on the bottom of the pass through door. That's what I'm referring to.

Sounds like the plug for portable solar charger.

[Twisties]

Ours came with the so-called prep package and our plan was to use it to add our own system. There is also an optional complete system from Cougar.

The prep package ostensibly includes: The Zamp branded roof gland (wiring mount point), the wire from the roof to the location for the solar charge controller (SCC), the wire from the SCC to the battery bay, the wire from the battery bay to the inverter location, and the prewire for the three plugs (tv, kitchen and bedside) advertised, as well as all fuses, cut off switches, etc.

Ostensibly you add a Zamp panel or two (it is set up for a max of two), wiring from the panel to the roof gland, a Zamp pwm SCC, and Xantrex 1200 W pure sine pass through (auto-switching) inverter. Basically plug and play. Cougar sells a kit with one panel, plus an add on kit with a second panel.

In our case only the roof gland and wiring from the roof to the battery bay and the wiring for the three plugs to on inverter were in fact present. When I called the dealer they agreed to bring it up to spec on warranty, then mentioned that they had one of the kits available. Came on a new unit with the full package and purchaser did not want it. They sold it to me at a steep discount, plus I picked up the 2nd panel from Back Country Solar. So I scrapped my plans to use the pre-wiring to configure my own system, but I believe the wiring is rated for 510W (40 amps) and you should be able to do this. I was going to add 4 100 W panels and a Renogy mppt scc and a renogy inverter. Renogy's (and most) switching inverters are also charging inverters, but Renogy confirmed for me that the charging feature could be turned off, leaving your batteries charging from the SCC and your converter, as intended.

I think the Zamp stuff is good. Made in Oregon. Very responsive customer service when I talked to them on the phone. Main issue with Zamp is that their panels are $$$$$. About 3-3.5 times the going rate per W. Also, their controller is PWM, not MPPT. So I ended up with 340 W on pwm, probably about 300W equivalent on mppt.

It was installed Saturday by the dealer. Seems to be working well.

[glendar10]

I was wondering the same thing. Plug and play? Is there some kind of controller built in?
No that is part of the package you have to buy. But in the storage closet there is a plastic bubble behind it there is or should be the wiring for that. There also should be wires for the inverter. I have a 5er 2021 cougar and well none of it is there as it should be. If it was it would be very easy to put in the solar from Zamp solar just 3 parts and your done. To use potable on with some one else you need to check out the wire if as Zamp has the wire switch around on that one. Not roof top.

[mikec557]

I think I should clarify a little. The rooftop gland is from Zamp, but it's really just two SAE connections. Some folks say a Zamp connection is wired opposite of the "standard" way. Whether it is or not is irrelevant. It's the nature of SAE connectors. If you run into a situation that needs the opposite orientation, you just plug in a gender changer. They're cheap. You can buy anybody's solar panels. Usually non-Zamp panels have MC4 connectors. Amazon sells two MC4 to SAE adapters and two gender changers for about $15. So buy whatever panels you want.

As for the factory location and connections for the solar charge controller and for an inverter (two different concepts) (and you can do either one without doing the other), you'll find two loops of wire, one for each. There are no connectors on those wires. So it's not really "plug and play." it's cut, strip, connect or fasten to each piece of equipment. Don't get me wrong, it's not hard to do. Whether you buy Zamp or Other Brand, the task is the same, so buy what you like.

The beauty is the the pre-wire done by Keystone. Especially having the 3 outlets pre-wired to The Loop for easy connection to or through an inverter. Not to mention the consolidation of the wiring and equipment.

Hope that helps.

Mike

[glendar10]

Removed that black dome shaped cover that makes you think Keystone has some sort of controller, inverter or at least some wire terminations... Nada, Zip, Nothing. Makes a goo emergency water bowl for the dog.
They have done nothing but sell you an idea.

This solar per wire is a joke as we just ought a new 2021. Cougar30 RLS and these prep is a joke mine has one wire that is tied into battery and goes up to the roof where the panels plug into as it had 13.9 volt at roof. Guess they don’t know a power feed from a panel feed. There is a plan on what they should have wired the do not do inverter. But wires yes.there should be 4 wires under the bubble for the controller. Inverterfeed should be 2 age wire as per the drawing . None of this was in my 2021cougar and if I o to dealer might fix it if the know what they are doing.
Picture is not great sorry will try to get better but you can see what
Should be there. This is a keystone drawing.

[mikec557]

This solar per wire is a joke as we just ought a new 2021. Cougar30 RLS and these prep is a joke mine has one wire that is tied into battery and goes up to the roof where the panels plug into as it had 13.9 volt at roof. Guess they don’t know a power feed from a panel feed. There is a plan on what they should have wired the do not do inverter. But wires yes.there should be 4 wires under the bubble for the controller. Inverterfeed should be 2 age wire as per the drawing . None of this was in my 2021cougar and if I o to dealer might fix it if the know what they are doing.
Picture is not great sorry will try to get better but you can see what
Should be there. This is a keystone drawing.

To anyone contemplating the installation of an inverter, keep in mind the specification of 2ga wire in the drawing is for the 1200 watt size inverter shown in the drawing. Use the right size wire for whatever size inverter you install. Glendar is right though, keystone does not provide the wire/cable from the batteries to the inverter location. But, if they did their job, they should have provided a loop of romex at the inverter location.

[sonofcy]

To anyone contemplating the installation of an inverter, keep in mind the specification of 2ga wire in the drawing is for the 1200 watt size inverter shown in the drawing. Use the right size wire for whatever size inverter you install. Glendar is right though, keystone does not provide the wire/cable from the batteries to the inverter location. But, if they did their job, they should have provided a loop of romex at the inverter location.

Romex??? Inverters use welding cable. Mine is 4/0 or 0000 which is 5 times thicker than 2awg and the wire length is less than 3ft.

If you are not a full-timer doing a lot of boondocking what keystone installs is adequate. For full time with a lot of boondocking you need a lot more.
I used the keystone wires to pull through the proper size wires. None of my wire losses exceed 2% now. All primary wires 4/0, panels to combiner shortened 10awg, combiner to MPPT 4awg all misc 6awg

[mikec557]

Romex??? Inverters use welding cable. Mine is 4/0 or 0000 which is 5 times thicker than 2awg and the wire length is less than 3ft....

I think perhaps you misunderstood me. Your 4/0 wire equates to the non-existent 2ga wire referenced in the drawing. Both of which connect the inverter to the battery bank.

The loop of Romex is part of the OTG pre-wiring too. It's origin comes from the breaker panel, then loops in the pass-through in a pull behind 2020 or newer TT with the OTG package. It then continues to three 120vac outlets inside the camper, Typically one located in the bedroom, one in the kitchen, and one behind the TV. This is all part of the OTG package. Keystone intention, per the drawing, is for you to cut the Romex loop and install an inverter with shore power pass through. Thus the three outlets are powered either by the inverter or shore power when plugged in at a campsite.

The three outlets are not powered by 4/0 nor 2ga wire. Those wires are used to connect the inverter to the battery bank.

Hope I made that clearer.

[sonofcy]

I think perhaps you misunderstood me. Your 4/0 wire equates to the non-existent 2ga wire referenced in the drawing. Both of which connect the inverter to the battery bank.

The loop of Romex is part of the OTG pre-wiring too. It's origin comes from the breaker panel, then loops in the pass-through in a pull behind 2020 or newer TT with the OTG package. It then continues to three 120vac outlets inside the camper, Typically one located in the bedroom, one in the kitchen, and one behind the TV. This is all part of the OTG package. Keystone intention, per the drawing, is for you to cut the Romex loop and install an inverter with shore power pass through. Thus the three outlets are powered either by the inverter or shore power when plugged in at a campsite.

The three outlets are not powered by 4/0 nor 2ga wire. Those wires are used to connect the inverter to the battery bank.

Hope I made that clearer.

Yes, now I understand.
In my case one leg of my 50 amp cable goes thru the 3,000W hybrid inverter. I moved 2 breakers so that the entire living area minus the fireplace is powered via the inverter. The other half of the main AC panel now has the washer, dryer, bedroom AC, water heater, fireplace and a spare since the converter is now not needed and is disconnected.

[mikec557]

Yes, now I understand.
In my case one leg of my 50 amp cable goes thru the 3,000W hybrid inverter. I moved 2 breakers so that the entire living area minus the fireplace is powered via the inverter. The other half of the main AC panel now has the washer, dryer, bedroom AC, water heater, fireplace and a spare since the converter is now not needed and is disconnected.

👍
Sounds like a nice setup you have there.

[sonofcy]

👍
Sounds like a nice setup you have there.

Fairly standard Victron & Battle Born setup. Only 400AH of LiFePO4, might up it to 600. 4x180W panels on manual tilters and a hybrid 3,000 watt inverter with 120A charger and 50 amp passthrough even on a 30 amp post because the batteries automatically will add the extra 20A.

HUGE difference between a regular inverter and a Hybrid or pass thru inverter.

We had some wind the other day and power went out a couple of times (I get an email from the inverter when that happens) and the TV show I was streaming didn't even notice. Think of it as a very big UPS.

[glendar10]

Any one know if the roof port for Zamp is wired the same backwards ? If so why can I not just change the fed wires to the opset to use other systems panels

[mikec557]

Any one know if the roof port for Zamp is wired the same backwards ? If so why can I not just change the fed wires to the opset to use other systems panels

Edit: after reading my long answer I thought maybe I missed the point of the question. So let me say, on my rooftop Zamp connector, the male pin is Positive. That is opposite of the general SAE connector where the Positive is usually protected by being inside the shrouded female pin. But if you've ever daisy chained SAE connectors you know that the positive and negative switch between male and female. Watch your wiring job. Try to follow the rule of thumb, red is positive, black is negative.

Glen

On my 2020 26RBSWE inside the rooftop Zamp gland the top most pin was male and connected to the positive battery post. So that wire is red inside the pass through.

I installed two Renogy 160 watt panels and bought a set of 24in long MC4 to SAE adapters to plug into the rooftop Zamp gland. In order to keep the solar panels positive wire red I had to use the SAE gender changers that came with the above adapters.

I could have easily plugged in the 24in adapter without the gender changer, but then the panel red positive wire would have been on the black wire going down in the pass through where I put the solar charge controller. Personally, I felt like I had enough wires to keep straight that I wanted positive to always be red, and black to always be negative.

[Rvgerry]

I have 2021 29RKS 1/2 ton cougar 5r and I can't find prewired cables where I would install solar controller. I had assumed they would be found in pass through compartment. I see bubble for Romex(inverter) but no red/black wires for solar.

[jasin1]

I have 2021 29RKS 1/2 ton cougar 5r and I can't find prewired cables where I would install solar controller. I had assumed they would be found in pass through compartment. I see bubble for Romex(inverter) but no red/black wires for solar.

The red /black wires from the prewired solar connectors on the roof and convenience center are wired directly to the battery already. You should be able to see them running across the ceiling of your pass through storage. Mine had the romex under one plastic cover on the ceiling and there was another empty plastic cover on the wall opposite the battery’s. This is presumably where they mount the solar charger,but you could mount wherever you want.

[Rvgerry]

Strange, the red and black wire running across ceiling in pass through is hot. 12.7 volts. It runs to fuse box for what appears to be leveling box mounted on ceiling in pass through.

[jasin1]

Strange, the red and black wire running across ceiling in pass through is hot. 12.7 volts. It runs to fuse box for what appears to be leveling box mounted on ceiling in pass through.

It’s hot because it’s hooked to the battery already

[jasin1]

Strange, the red and black wire running across ceiling in pass through is hot. 12.7 volts. It runs to fuse box for what appears to be leveling box mounted on ceiling in pass through.

Those wires terminate at the zamp connectors on roof and convenience center connectors

[Rvgerry]

Thanks for the help. To install controller I would connect that hot red/blk wire to battery side of controller and connect solar wires to input on controller. That's the issue. Where is the solar wires.. to the roof. I'm beginning to think those are coming out of the ceiling box where Keystone had the hot wires from battery twist connected.

[Rvgerry]

I called Keystone and they refused to answer my question for liability reason and said I had to have controller installed by dealer.

[Rvgerry]

What is convinced center?

[jasin1]

What is convinced center?

Where your water connections and satellite connections are

[jasin1]

I called Keystone and they refused to answer my question for liability reason and said I had to have controller installed by dealer.

I have a renogy suitcase solar system with the integrated controller. There are several good YouTube videos on solar installations as well as some threads on this site. I would study the wiring diagrams and make sure all of your wire gauge sizes will support what your trying to accomplish.
I purchased equipment through DonRowe.com. They have knowledgeable people that can help also. If your not experienced with proper electrical practices I would defer to someone that is.

[Rvgerry]

I've installed several systems on Lance trailer and motor home. On this Keystone I have had to install controller, breakers, mt50 in battery compartment on plywood because the convinced center Sce connector was not connected to battery. Tested with multimeter, zero volts.

[jasin1]

I've installed several systems on Lance trailer and motor home. On this Keystone I have had to install controller, breakers, mt50 in battery compartment on plywood because the convinced center Sce connector was not connected to battery. Tested with multimeter, zero volts.

Well you should be golden then! Good luck and post pictures of progress

[jasin1]

Thanks for the help. To install controller I would connect that hot red/blk wire to battery side of controller and connect solar wires to input on controller. That's the issue. Where is the solar wires.. to the roof. I'm beginning to think those are coming out of the ceiling box where Keystone had the hot wires from battery twist connected.

The solar wires to the roof probably connect close to the solar wire at convenience center. I think it’s an “either or” setup...meaning you either have the panels on the roof or a portable on the side so it doesn’t overload the wire . It may very well support both depending on what wattage total panels you have installed at both locations

[Rvgerry]

[ATTACh[/ATTACH]

I don't know if picture will go, but here is my setup in batter y compartment for portable solar. I will have separate controller for roof panels in pass through. I have since added inverter in battery compartment that runs under trailer to tv only.

[Rvgerry]

I finally pulled panel off that holds the leveling controller and behind that panel is two red/black separate wires. One goes to ceiling fuse box and the other to prewired solar. I just need to cut it and install controller and breaker. Yeah

[mikec557]

I finally pulled panel off that holds the leveling controller and behind that panel is two red/black separate wires. One goes to ceiling fuse box and the other to prewired solar. I just need to cut it and install controller and breaker. Yeah

Gerry, do you know for certain which red & black pair of wires come from the rooftop port? I know on my 2020 26RBSWE the red/black pair look almost identical to several other pairs running to my auto level circuit board/boxes. Visually, the only clue is that the rooftop wires are 8ga, and the auto level wires were a slightly smaller gauge.

If the pair you think comes from the rooftop port goes to a fuse, pull the fuse out and go up on the roof and see if the port reads no voltage, or still reads 12-13 volts. If there's no voltage, then you probably have the right pair. If there is voltage, you have the wrong pair.

On my TT, Keystone ran the wires, with no loop, nor slack, straight to the batteries. But they did run the positive wire through a self resetting 30a micro dc circuit breaker. The kind you usually see with a red plastic cover. After wiring through that, and before the positive post on the battery, they installed a normal automotive 30a blade fuse.

Maybe you've already got this part of your setup figured out, but I thought I'd throw this out there.

Can you post a picture of the fuse block you think the rooftop wire is running to? While the red wire of the pair is going to this fuse block, where's the black wire going?

Do I understand right that on some models the 12v solar port is located in the "convenience center" that also has the water hose connection?

[Rvgerry]

It's actually very simple once I
Pulled the wall that has the leveling controller back I exposed two sets of black/red feed wires FROM the batteries. One set went to fuse panel for leveling and the other red/black wire is the solar wire going between roof port and battery. So in other models prewired see what wires lead from fuse block and look for the other red black wire attached to battery. That's the solar wire.

I have not wired the controller yet, but I will disconnect battery then cut that wire and see which end is hot. Then hook that two wires to battery side of controller.

[Rvgerry]

Mike, I forgot to mention I have not seen any fuses for either red/black pair. The zamp plan calls for a 40 amp fuse for roof solar and 30 amp fuse for portable solar. Nada.

[mikec557]

Here's the Schematic from Keystone. It's an early drawing so things may have changed... or the guys on the shop floor may do things a little differently.

Edit: by the way, the yellow highlight is not me. That's how it was when I received it.

[LurchOR]

Does the Xantrex inverter supplied with the OTG pkg integrate with the incommand system?

[Giant]

No. If installed at the factory, the Xantrex inverter can only be turned on via the switch on the unit itself, unless you buy and install the remote panel yourself.

[LurchOR]

Thanks for the info

[Ernest125]

So we finally picked up our 25RDSWE on Saturday so I was able to scope out the electrical. I was a little disappointed in how the factory cleans up after themselves. Anyway after looking at the basic setup my plan now is to remove the supplied converter and replace it with an Xantrex XC2000 with remote panel. Should make for a clean installation and I will still be able to add solar sometime this spring.

[jasin1]

So we finally picked up our 25RDSWE on Saturday so I was able to scope out the electrical. I was a little disappointed in how the factory cleans up after themselves. Anyway after looking at the basic setup my plan now is to remove the supplied converter and replace it with an Xantrex XC2000 with remote panel. Should make for a clean installation and I will still be able to add solar sometime this spring.

Someone will probably correct me but I think you want to keep the original converter and just remove the wires going to the batteries from the converter ..you still need the converter to supply 12 volts to all the lights and accessories,furnace etc ... your xantrex xc will just charge the batteries and supply 120 when boondocking... I have the same xantrex but I went with the x model because the new converters are basically smart chargers .. mine is

[KimNTerry]

I installed a Xantrex Freedom HF 1800 Inverter Charger 4 years ago. My converter is bypassed and 12 volt power comes from the batteries. When I'm plugged in to shore power, 12 volt still comes form the batteries and the charger keeps the batteries topped off. The XC2000 was not an option at the time. The system has done us well for the last 4 years. All that being said, I did leave the converter installed as an emergency backup in case the Xantrex fails during an outing. Still need to install solar on my rig. (One of these days...)

[jasin1]

I installed a Xantrex Freedom HF 1800 Inverter Charger 4 years ago. My converter is bypassed and 12 volt power comes from the batteries. When I'm plugged in to shore power, 12 volt still comes form the batteries and the charger keeps the batteries topped off. The XC2000 was not an option at the time. The system has done us well for the last 4 years. All that being said, I did leave the converter installed as an emergency backup in case the Xantrex fails during an outing. Still need to install solar on my rig. (One of these days...)

I think that your original converter is a converter/charger...one purpose is to charge the batteries and the other purpose is to convert 120ac down to 12V dc...

. if you take the batteries out of the rv and throw them as far as you can and plug in shore power you still have 12 volts to the lights and furnace and water pump etc...

If you purchase a inverter/ charger and want that to charge your batteries then you only have to disconnect the wires leading out of the original converter/ charger that lead to the batteries .

Your new inverter / charger would provide 120v ac from the batteries while boondocking AND charge the batteries BUT if you want to have the rv operate on 12 V dc while hooked up to shore power then why not leave the original converter in as it produces 12 v dc much easier then thru the batteries..

I believe this is what most people do and might be how yours actually is if someone else installed your inverter... if you installed it I would probably hook up the converter again

[Ernest125]

Thanks for the feedback. Now that everything is here, I will take another look and decide for sure which way I think I should go.

[KimNTerry]

Just providing feedback on a question and how mine is configured I'm not seeking approval or advice.

[Rvmom46]

Removed that black dome shaped cover that makes you think Keystone has some sort of controller, inverter or at least some wire terminations... Nada, Zip, Nothing. Makes a goo emergency water bowl for the dog.
They have done nothing but sell you an idea.
I am dealing with this exact thin in my new 21 keystone i cant find the wires did you ever get it hooked up?

[mikec557]

I am dealing with this exact thin in my new 21 keystone i cant find the wires did you ever get it hooked up?


Would you mind posting a picture of the label or bubble/dish covering, and a picture of what is behind it?



Thanks

[Rvmom46]

Attached is the photo of the cover we hadnt took it off yet but there is nothing behind it but the grey carpet no holes no wires its just on top grey carpet. we remove the whole panel of grey carpet and behind that was wires coming in for leveler and inverter in picture. No extra wires no connections.

we opened up the battery compartment and there's a wire makes zamp solar hooked battery and dont know where it cam from possible the roof.

its seems like hooked direct without the thought for a controller.

any help would be great thank you.

[Blueswede]

We have it on our new Cougar. The nice thing is that it keeps the batteries charged at all times. No need to have it plugged in. That’s a plus for me…

[jasin1]

Attached is the photo of the cover we hadnt took it off yet but there is nothing behind it but the grey carpet no holes no wires its just on top grey carpet. we remove the whole panel of grey carpet and behind that was wires coming in for leveler and inverter in picture. No extra wires no connections.

we opened up the battery compartment and there's a wire makes zamp solar hooked battery and dont know where it cam from possible the roof.

its seems like hooked direct without the thought for a controller.

any help would be great thank you.

That’s just a spot where the dealer would install the solar controller or the rv owner..if you have a portable folding suitcase solar panel it will have it’s own solar charge controller. If you mount your own solar charger you will find the rooftop solar wires are in the vicinity..mine ran overhead and down into the battery compartment. It’s just to show you where it’s best to install..like the sticker for bedroom tv and winegard gateway,or rear view camera...it’s marketing but not deceptive IMO..some people can’t visualize without props

[jasin1]

Just providing feedback on a question and how mine is configured I'm not seeking approval or advice.

Wasn’t my intention to give you advice or “approval”.. sorry if I offended you...I always took these things as discussions not sealed envelope answers

[Cimriver]

The wires they provide are too small for me and for most.

I've seen several comments like this and wonder what I am missing. The wires that they pull from the roof are 8AWG. 8AWG wire is rated for 40amps, with a ten percent voltage loss over 30ft.

So if I have four 200w solar panels wired with 2 sets of panels in series, and then those two sets wired in parallel. The voltage output would be about 40vdc minus 4vdc = 36vdc presented to the charger, with about 25amps. Seems to me 8AWG wire can handle this just fine.

800w on the roof might not be adequate for some folks, but should be for most.

So what am I missing here?

[Cimriver]

Anyway after looking at the basic setup my plan now is to remove the supplied converter and replace it with an Xantrex XC2000 with remote panel.

I think when he said converter he must have meant inverter.

[mikec557]

I've seen several comments like this and wonder what I am missing. The wires that they pull from the roof are 8AWG. 8AWG wire is rated for 40amps, with a ten percent voltage loss over 30ft.

So if I have four 200w solar panels wired with 2 sets of panels in series, and then those two sets wired in parallel. The voltage output would be about 40vdc minus 4vdc = 36vdc presented to the charger, with about 25amps. Seems to me 8AWG wire can handle this just fine.

800w on the roof might not be adequate for some folks, but should be for most.

So what am I missing here?

Nope, I don't think you're missing anything.

Sometimes a "generalized" statement is so generalized its no longer accurate. It's easier, and more informative, to talk specific numbers as you did in your example.