Dometic Awning rear rail screws loose

[ChuckS]

Easy repair using 3/16 x 1 inch trilock aluminum rivets... Took about 15 minutes to replace a few of the awning rail mount screws ... rail is tight and will d9mthe rest of the entire rail when spring gets here in Idaho.

Will source the trilock rivets hopefully at a better cost than $7 for 5 ...

The other 4 shanks snapped off flush with head like they should and I cut this one flush with pair of diagonal cutters. Installed each rivet with a dab of Dicor around the shank for weather proofing

[GaryUT]

Never though of using rivets for this repair.

Some of my screws pulled loose on the front end of the rail on our trailer, the dealer tightened them up and added a couple of extras. I'm planning on removing them all and putting proflex sealer in the holes and re-installing the screws this spring.

McMaster-Carr has the rivets: https://www.mcmaster.com/tri-fold-rivets

Gary

[ChuckS]

Thanks for the link... I order a lot of things from these folks. The tri lock rivets are a permanent repair. Screws won’t hold if filon is the only thing your going into.

[Weekender 1]

https://www.amazon.com/YYST-Water-Tri-Grip-Tri-Fold-Mounting/dp/B01DHLK7WE/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Canoe+rivets&qid=1578227187&sr=8-2


I had mine pulling out after the second time I had the awning out.
Stupid factory puts in self drilling screws into luan. Out of all the screws in the awning only 8 were into a aluminum stud.


Now watch out for the rivet nazi's because the last time I mentioned this n the forum I was told, oh great tell someone to do this and now it'll pull the wall down.


Been 3 years now and I've added more window only awnings with the same fasteners.


These rivets also have a O ring to seal the rivet.

[ChuckS]

I’ll follow Dometic recommended fattening technique in their install PDF that clearly states use Oscar rivets... these have 3 times the holding power of the cheap screws that’s are just into the side of the RV and not any actual structure frame.

[ctbruce]

LOL. Rivet Nazis. That's a new one.

It's always prudent to be cautious. Sounds like you found an alternate way to fix it outside of the common wisdom. New ideas are always welcome, Nazi's not included.

[Weekender 1]

LOL. Rivet Nazis. That's a new one.




:hide: Well, I just had to.


But anyway I did receive some guff over it. Go to bigger screws, add this and that to the holes. All most all awning detaching is due to weather etc.


Mine was new, second time out I could see the ends pulling out. Went along with a wrench and everyone that was not into a stud, spun. I'm like WTF, your screwing with self drilling screws into very soft, no strong wood:facepalm:. Talked to the dealer and they were gonna send someone out to do the guff things:facepalm: OK didnt work the first time and why would you think it would a second time. You mean all this detail and design of these units and you forgot to put a header on a 5th wheel designed to hold the awning:confused:,Sarcasm.
I do alot of fixing around my park. I'm a machine millwright of sorts.I go by, If I cant fix it ,it's not broke its F***** up beyond repair.


I've done a total of 6 Carefree window awnings for myself and others. Funny they give you the same self drilling screws and tell you to put the awning roughly 4 inches over the window. GUESS WHAT, fiberglass or even tin sided trailers, there is nothing to screw into with any strength. Have they not learned their lesson yet??:angel:

[chuckster57]

Factory uses self tapping screws, probably only buy one type for everything and by the barrel for a better price. all the awning and topper kits I have installed only have self tappers for the brackets that mount to the slide. all the rail screws are not self tapping. I drill very small pilot holes every three or four holes to align the rail and then go back and just screw in the rest. Its easy to slip and get the rail all crooked if you don't do something.