So, what's in your toolbox?

[Maineiacs]

I carry all the usual suspects - screwdrivers, wrenches, socket sets, electrical testers, duct tape, etc.


What's the one or two things that you absolutely must have in YOUR toolbox or you'll turn around if you forgot them? And NO, I don't mean your honey or your liquid refreshment of choice!

[LHaven]

I carry my 40-year-old field service tool case (similar to this one (https://www.jensentools.com/jensen-tools-jtk-55bxp-field-service-tool-kit-in-deluxe-poly-case-17-3-4-x-12-3-4-x-5/p/jtk-55bxp)), plus a 3/8 socket set, and a large 250fp torque wrench for wheel lugs and hitch parts. I would turn around for any of those. I leave some tools permanently in the trailer, including the hitch-specific bar and speed wrenches, a prybar for when the hitch gets miffy, and a couple specialized Vise-Grips that I use to tighten hoses (and sometimes leaky packing nuts) on problematic camp bibbs. I also used to be religious about my high-pressure tire gauge, though with our new TPMS system I no longer need to be.

[Northofu1]

Has to be my Milwaukee 1/2" impact drive and impact socket set.

[roadglide]

Has to be my Milwaukee 1/2" impact drive and impact socket set.

I got 1/2 dewalt impact for Christmas . I carry small air compressors small box of tools .

[GHen]

I have a combo air compressor jump box. Even if your batteries are dead, you can still get your slides in or out with a jump box.

[RWRiley]

3/4" socket set for the lug nuts, and Hot water heater plug.

[chuckster57]

Over the years I have found you need a multimeter, fuses, screwdrivers and socket sets. Since I have a decent sized basement, I have a large tool box with a whole bunch of stuff in it.

[66joej]

I carry all the usual suspects - screwdrivers, wrenches, socket sets, electrical testers, duct tape, etc.


What's the one or two things that you absolutely must have in YOUR toolbox or you'll turn around if you forgot them? And NO, I don't mean your honey or your liquid refreshment of choice!

I carry pretty well everything I think I may need. Interestingly enough I have loaned out more tools/stuff to other campers than I have needed or used myself.

[JRTJH]

Don't forget the jack and socket to fit the lug nuts.... I'd strongly suggest you actually change a tire/wheel IN THE DRIVEWAY so you know whether you need a 3" or a 6" extension so your ratchet/lug wrench clears the tire. Nothing worse than getting to a "flat spot on the side of the road" (usually located on the bottom of the affected tire) and finding that you've got the correct socket to fit the lug, but can't put the ratchet on it because the "tire sidewall is too fat"..... OOPS.... And, even though the jack will lift the "flat tire" to clear the ground, will it lift the axle high enough for the "round tire" to clear the ground ?????

Any emergency repair should be "well thought out and accomplished in a non-emergency situation" (if possible) before actually required to be done in a real emergency.

[Ken / Claudia]

I will add a tool/part that I have carried in the past, but keep forgetting to go to Napa and buy 2 more. The breakerless fuses on the tongue near the battery. The ones mounted out in the weather. Less than 5 bucks each, I had 1 fail in my last RV, it controlled the slide. Easy to replace and important to have them working.
I may be calling them by the wrong name, John and others can correct me.

[JRTJH]

Breakerless fuses, DC circuit breakers, auto-reset circuit breakers, PITA.... Whatever you choose to call them, they are, if out in the open, an "electrical problem waiting to happen"....

[Frisbeekev]

In the main truck toolbox: tar, tow strap, road hazard reflectors, circular saw, tool bag, zip ties, extension chord, battery operated light, socket kit, sawzall, an d battery powered blower(great for cleaning the campsite).

In the the undercover swing arm boxes: bungee and rachets, pad locks and cable, hitch pins, and gloves. Milwaukee battery tools in the other.

[nrkmann]

Non Tools but necessities on the road: WD 40 brand Dry Lubricant for my Reese hitch, else it makes all kinds of noise, window slides, etc.; silicon seal, if I see a gap almost anywhere I fill it before any water can get in; electric contact cleaner; mollie grease for the ball; dielectric grease for the trailer seven way power connector; white and black Gorilla tape; distilled water for the batteries; bug & tar remover (fresh kill is so much easier to remove than waiting until you are home);

Spray bottle with soapy water to test the gas connections every time the tanks are filled. Found a leaking tank that way.

Two fire extinguishers, one in the living/kitchen area by the exit door (escape, then fight the fire) and one in the bed room (ever try to climb out the escape window?) to suppress a fire while DW escapes first.

Extra 12 vdc led interior lights... had two quit working on my last 14 day trip.

Hard wood slivers to put into screw holes when the screws back out or loosen and need to be tightened down. Used to use wooden matches but they are too soft for the shaking and vibration the cupboard doors undergo during travel.

Tent stakes & 550 para cord (I like the glow in the dark) to stake down the awning. Awning de-flapper clips.

Trailer specific screws. (My dealer took me to his shop stock and let me have half a dozen of each size we thought I would need).

Electrical adaptors: 50 to 30 amp NEMA 14-50P/TT-30R, 120 15 amp to trailer 30 amp NEMA L5-30P/TT-30R, 30 amp twist (generator) to 30 amp RV NEMA L5-30P/TT-30R RV.

Wood dunnage for all kinds of this and that. I get hard wood scraps from a cabinet shop.


Tools not mentioned by others: Hammer to get chalks into place and pull them out.

Shovel to help level the trailer while boon docking and for fire suppression. Small rake to get the rocks, twigs, etc. out of the way. Ax to cut wood and pound stakes (be sure to have a safety cover on the blade when pounding stakes).

5 Gal bucket to wash the rig, haul off grey water, and fire suppression.

1/2" breaker bar with extension, six sided sockets for lugs (various sizes), jacks (3/4"), and hot water heater (1 1/16")

In my electric drill case...short and long square drive, jack drive socket (3/4”), drill bits, various drivers (flat, philips, star, etc.)

10mm wrench for TV coax cable.

Window squeegee.

Whisk broom to whisk out my truck, clean rubber mats, etc.

[skids]

Breakerless fuses, DC circuit breakers, auto-reset circuit breakers, PITA.... Whatever you choose to call them, they are, if out in the open, an "electrical problem waiting to happen"....

I am glad you posted those images, because I had not identified it on the front of the camper. I thought it was just a connector that served to fasten the works to the camper. I don’t know if it is Keystone or Camping World’s handiwork, but the wiring between the batteries and the camper is very messy.

[Maineiacs]

Some truly excellent ideas from everyone! Be glad to share a campsite with any of you.

[JRTJH]

I am glad you posted those images, because I had not identified it on the front of the camper. I thought it was just a connector that served to fasten the works to the camper. I don’t know if it is Keystone or Camping World’s handiwork, but the wiring between the batteries and the camper is very messy.

I'd guess the "wiring mess" is a combination of both Keystone and Camping World issues. Keystone installs the wiring and Camping World "ignores the mess" and passes it on to the customer.

The wiring should be corrected and the circuit breakers should be protected in a "customer added waterproof box" or rewired to a location inside the trailer where they are protected from the elements.

I'm sure others will comment that they've had their trailer for 10 years and never had any problems, but I'd suspect for every one of those "lucky ones" there's at least two or three times more who have had issues, failed circuit breakers, symptomatic electrical problems and/or electrical failure, usually at the most inopportune time, often causing disruptions in camping schedules or cancellation of a trip.

For me, protecting those exposed circuit breakers is just as important as resealing the roof. Both are going to get worse with exposure and both can cause significant problems with the trailer.

[Jim2366]

A Stanley Fatmax 1000, bottle jack, lug nut breaker, four way lug nut wrench. Cordless drill, and tool box.

2019 Cougar 361rlw
2019 Ram 3500 longbed PU

[Quiroule]

Along with most of the tools mentioned, a complete set of bearings and seals.

[dogbate1]

Pretty much everything that is mentioned here, but I never leave home without various sized Zip ties.

[Lil Joe]

Self tapping screws and large washers. Had to use them once to secure a metal side panel after it was ripped out of the bottom.

[TYHLR]

I always put my tool bag in the camper that contains the things that others have already mentioned.


So far, the only tools that i have needed on the road is a cordless screwdriver, bottle jack and 1/2 Dewalt cordless impact wrench for changing a tire on the interstate. I learned the hard way about not having an extension long enough to get the lug nuts off of the camper.


Additionally, I use the impact wrench to crank up/down the camper jacks.

[GvS]

Non Tools but necessities on the road: WD 40 brand Dry Lubricant for my Reese hitch, else it makes all kinds of noise, window slides, etc.; silicon seal, if I see a gap almost anywhere I fill it before any water can get in; electric contact cleaner; mollie grease for the ball; dielectric grease for the trailer seven way power connector; white and black Gorilla tape; distilled water for the batteries; bug & tar remover (fresh kill is so much easier to remove than waiting until you are home);

Spray bottle with soapy water to test the gas connections every time the tanks are filled. Found a leaking tank that way.

Two fire extinguishers, one in the living/kitchen area by the exit door (escape, then fight the fire) and one in the bed room (ever try to climb out the escape window?) to suppress a fire while DW escapes first.

Extra 12 vdc led interior lights... had two quit working on my last 14 day trip.

Hard wood slivers to put into screw holes when the screws back out or loosen and need to be tightened down. Used to use wooden matches but they are too soft for the shaking and vibration the cupboard doors undergo during travel.

Tent stakes & 550 para cord (I like the glow in the dark) to stake down the awning. Awning de-flapper clips.

Trailer specific screws. (My dealer took me to his shop stock and let me have half a dozen of each size we thought I would need).

Electrical adaptors: 50 to 30 amp NEMA 14-50P/TT-30R, 120 15 amp to trailer 30 amp NEMA L5-30P/TT-30R, 30 amp twist (generator) to 30 amp RV NEMA L5-30P/TT-30R RV.

Wood dunnage for all kinds of this and that. I get hard wood scraps from a cabinet shop.


Tools not mentioned by others: Hammer to get chalks into place and pull them out.

Shovel to help level the trailer while boon docking and for fire suppression. Small rake to get the rocks, twigs, etc. out of the way. Ax to cut wood and pound stakes (be sure to have a safety cover on the blade when pounding stakes).

5 Gal bucket to wash the rig, haul off grey water, and fire suppression.

1/2" breaker bar with extension, six sided sockets for lugs (various sizes), jacks (3/4"), and hot water heater (1 1/16")

In my electric drill case...short and long square drive, jack drive socket (3/4”), drill bits, various drivers (flat, philips, star, etc.)

10mm wrench for TV coax cable.

Window squeegee.

Whisk broom to whisk out my truck, clean rubber mats, etc.
On the same vane. We carry an assortment of fuses and fuse puller, 110V plug tester, HarborFrieght 20V Air Compressor, special driver heads to fit trailer screw heads, headband mounted LED flashlights, 12V brake and turn signal bulbs for the trailer.

[locomech]

I like to carry a roll of self fusing silicone tape when I travel. I don't think I'd turn around or make a special trip to a hardware store if I forgot it, but it sure is nice to have when a leak develops or something needs to be secured. It's not as easy to work with as duct tape but it does hold well and is resistant to pressure and temperature.

I've used it to make an emergency repair on an air compressor coolant line on a diesel locomotive to save a delay.

https://www.amazon.com/Rescue-Tape-RT01019-BRK-RT1000201201USCO/dp/B00AEBKYPG/ref=sr_1_14?ascsubtag=1ba00-01000-org00-win10-dsk00-nomod-us000-gatwy-feature-SEARC&dchild=1&keywords=silicone+repair+tape&qid=1576778478&sr=8-14

[LewisB]

> If you have an INVERTER, spare main battery fuse (probably 100A or 200A) - I've lost one of these before.
> Spare dump hose & fittings
> Extra water supply hose
> Spare water filter elements (if you use a water filter)
> If you boondock, an empty gas can and empty water jug (so you can fill up when you go to town for donuts :lol:
> Firearm (unless leaving the US) - I conceal carry 9mm + 357 in trailer :D (am I allowed to say that here in the forum?)
> DW's sewing machine & about 20 quilting projects (DW made me add that):angel:
All the standard tools, air compressor, etc. already mentioned.

[flybouy]

Have you ever seen a an MC (motorcycle club) travel in large numbers? They usually have a truck with an enclosed utility trailer full of spare parts that follows the bikes. If you pack up all that "stuff" listed above you'll have to have the DW follow you with a truck dragging a 20' cargo trailer.:banghead:

Lot's of good suggestions but .cumulatively a lot of weight.:popcorn:

[Northofu1]

You have to choose your battles, most hand tools can be bought at HF or low price stores to get you through a repair. I turn around for what I am not prepared to pay for on the road, namely larger ticket items. I also carry what I deem to be difficult to find on the road, someone mentioned bearings and seals, a pair of them sounds like a good idea. I store the fuses and dc circuit breakers that John showed in one of his posts. They're cheap on amazon and probably a little harder to find in a small town and I really don't want to find out. A leaf spring in Dayton was a 10 day monumental task.

[MrRobalo]

I carry a trailer tool bag ( I made up 45 yrs ago when I was at boat company) with a 20 & 2 ton bottle jacks, 1/2’ Socket set w/slip over breaker bar,Bering set, HF 3 Gallon 1/3 HP 100 PSI Oil-Free Hotdog Air Compressor, grease squeeze tube & gun,
Hand cleaner sheets, gloves, large set wrenches, torque wrench, cut a 4 x 4 cut on angle and flat top with stop so I break loose lug-nuts then just drive the good wheel up on it and change tire ( I keep it on trailer bumper behind spare tire) flashlights one to see with and a strobe on back of trailer,
Only thing I can’t find is a can of This patient

[LewisB]

One other thought: it may depend on how you use your RV.
> If you travel from RV park to RV park, then you are probably close to stores with repair parts - fewer spares probably necessary.
> If you typically "boondocK" like us, then you may not be close to a store for multiple days - more spare parts are likely a good idea.

So how you use your RV should be part of the equation IMHO.

[Ccrew]

Wire strippers, wire connectors, velcro tape, teflon tape, assorted screws/nuts/bolts/washers. impact gun and 1/2 and 3/8 socket sets, breaker bar, drill and bits, large set of assorted bits for screws/sq drive, Allen.

[Maineiacs]

Breakerless fuses, DC circuit breakers, auto-reset circuit breakers, PITA.... Whatever you choose to call them, they are, if out in the open, an "electrical problem waiting to happen"....


John, I never knew this object was a fuse. Thought it was just a connection block. What is the typical amperage? I see them available in 20, 30, 40 and 50 amps. While my camper is wired for 50 amp, 120 volt electrical service, is that what could flow through the battery connection? Doesn't seem quite right. Your thoughts?

[chuckster57]

John, I never knew this object was a fuse. Thought it was just a connection block. What is the typical amperage? I see them available in 20, 30, 40 and 50 amps. While my camper is wired for 50 amp, 120 volt electrical service, is that what could flow through the battery connection? Doesn't seem quite right. Your thoughts?

Technically it’s not a fuse, fuses burn and protect the circuit. What that is is a resetting circuit breaker. When the load exceeds the rating, the breaker pops and interrupts the flow of electricity. If it’s an auto resetting, it will allow flow once it cools off. Others have a manual reset button that you have to press. Fuses are a “one time use” type of thing. Circuit breakers can be reset multiple times.

Everything coming from your battery is 12VDC. The 120VAC is for the interior appliances.

[GHen]

Just in case you are considering changing the breaker, don’t increase the size. The breaker needs to be rated the same as the wire connected to it. Not sure what the numbers are for 12 volt wiring, I’m sure someone reading this knows.

In a house all (120volt)14 gauge wire is 15 amp breaker rated, 12 gauge is rated for 20 amp, and so on.

[flybouy]

John, I never knew this object was a fuse. Thought it was just a connection block. What is the typical amperage? I see them available in 20, 30, 40 and 50 amps. While my camper is wired for 50 amp, 120 volt electrical service, is that what could flow through the battery connection? Doesn't seem quite right. Your thoughts?

Depends upon the wire size and the load that's it's protecting. The amperage is typically stamped into the case so look at what's there now and replace with the same rating. As others have stated ,the 12 volt DC system is separate from the 120 volt ac and only meet at the converter that converts 120 vac to 12 vdc to charge the battery.

[GHen]

Just confirm again what was said above, those little circuit breakers are 12 volt and have NOTHING to to with the 120volt 50amp shore power.

If the breaker is a 20 amp, replace with a 20 amp.

[Maineiacs]

Everyone slow down and take a deep breath. I know the difference between AC and DC. I know it's dangerous to replace a safety device (fuse or circuit breaker) with one that carries more current than the wiring harness is designed to safely carry.


Since I never knew that object was anything other than a terminal block, I was wondering what it might be rated for. Can't quite get to it now but I will stock a spare with the same rating once I can read and decipher any markings.


Appreciate all the advice.

[chuckster57]

The rating should be stamped/printed on it. If you ever replace one, you’ll notice the terminals are different colors. One side is feed and the other is load.

[LHaven]

Since I never knew that object was anything other than a terminal block, I was wondering what it might be rated for. Can't quite get to it now but I will stock a spare with the same rating once I can read and decipher any markings.

Yup, I hear you. I had my first rig for 20 years and never even knew they were there, or could break, or were replaceable. Since then, I've seen a bunch of photos of them on this forum, but I've never seen a photo in which any sort of rating was obvious or even visible. At some point when the weather breaks, I'm going to slide under my rig with a spotlight and a speculum, and force it to disclose its secrets so I can buy me a spare or spares.

[chuckster57]

Since they come in two flavors- manual or auto resetting, I would get the auto type if they aren’t readily accessible.

[flybouy]

John, I never knew this object was a fuse. Thought it was just a connection block. What is the typical amperage? I see them available in 20, 30, 40 and 50 amps. While my camper is wired for 50 amp, 120 volt electrical service, is that what could flow through the battery connection? Doesn't seem quite right. Your thoughts?


Everyone slow down and take a deep breath. I know the difference between AC and DC. I know it's dangerous to replace a safety device (fuse or circuit breaker) with one that carries more current than the wiring harness is designed to safely carry.


Since I never knew that object was anything other than a terminal block, I was wondering what it might be rated for. Can't quite get to it now but I will stock a spare with the same rating once I can read and decipher any markings.


Appreciate all the advice.


"slow down and take a deep breath"? We're only trying to help. From the way your previous post was worded I don't think anyone would have guessed that you "know the difference between AC and DC". I think if you reread the posts you can see how the conception would be otherwize understood that you didn't.

This site doesn't tolerate "personal attacks" so instead of asking "do you know the difference between AC and DC" which sounds very condescending and negative (no pun intended), most of us take the content of a post at face value.

[JRTJH]

Yup, I hear you. I had my first rig for 20 years and never even knew they were there, or could break, or were replaceable. Since then, I've seen a bunch of photos of them on this forum, but I've never seen a photo in which any sort of rating was obvious or even visible. At some point when the weather breaks, I'm going to slide under my rig with a spotlight and a speculum, and force it to disclose its secrets so I can buy me a spare or spares.

Here you go, markings differ by manufacturer and even my "case material" (some are made of steel, some plastic, some a phenolic material)…

Some of the steel cased breakers have printed information, some are stamped, often on the bottom of the container where it's not visible unless you remove the breaker from its mounting location. As with any component that's exposed to the elements, the printed info may have faded, been worn away or even been scraped away, so you may not find the breaker markings on the case. At times, some "detective work" may be necessary. I've had to resort to "educated guesswork" on some applications and use the gauge of the wiring connected to the breaker to guess at the amperage of a breaker. Usually, most trailers that don't have hydraulic pumps or HD leveling systems will have two breakers one 40/50 amps and the other is 30 amps. That's sort of a "generalized best guess" kind of statement, so don't use it as a reason to go with that size. If you can't find the markings, use the wiring connected to it as a guide. The larger the wire, typically the higher the amperage for the device.

[bobbecky]

Just confirm again what was said above, those little circuit breakers are 12 volt and have NOTHING to to with the 120volt 50amp shore power.

If the breaker is a 20 amp, replace with a 20 amp.

The one exception to this 'rule' is, if you have a Lippert leveling hydraulic system, possibly also with the hydraulic slides, there might only be a 40 or 50 amp breaker installed, and if the pump starts and then stops before an operation, it is possibly the breaker that is undersized. Lippert recommends the breaker should be an 80 amp breaker due to the high amps that can develop when operating the system. The 80 amp upgrade is a good proven change in breaker size.