Winterized

[RVDad]

Today is about 60 degrees. Time to winterize. First time for us and we learned a lot of stuff.

1. The water heater bypass valve is in the worst location. I had to actually crawl into the rear storage area to turn the valve.
2. The water heater holds a ton of water! Pulling the anode rod to drain the water took forever. There must have been 5gal in there that I didn't realize.
3. I had to make a funnel because I forgot to bring one. I'm thinking of making a small box of items needed for winterizing and unwinterizing(sp).

I do have a question if anyone has any insight. This year we didn't fill the fresh water tank all, instead we only camped at locations with full hookups. The meter on the wall has always read 3/4 full for the fresh water, I just assumed it was wrong. Today, however proved that wasn't the case. It does seem like the fresh water tank was actually 3/4 full. How did water get into the fresh tank if I didn't put it in there?

2017 Keystone Hideout 262LHS

[flybouy]

Today is about 60 degrees. Time to winterize. First time for us and we learned a lot of stuff.

1. The water heater bypass valve is in the worst location. I had to actually crawl into the rear storage area to turn the valve.
2. The water heater holds a ton of water! Pulling the anode rod to drain the water took forever. There must have been 5gal in there that I didn't realize.
3. I had to make a funnel because I forgot to bring one. I'm thinking of making a small box of items needed for winterizing and unwinterizing(sp).

I do have a question if anyone has any insight. This year we didn't fill the fresh water tank all, instead we only camped at locations with full hookups. The meter on the wall has always read 3/4 full for the fresh water, I just assumed it was wrong. Today, however proved that wasn't the case. It does seem like the fresh water tank was actually 3/4 full. How did water get into the fresh tank if I didn't put it in there?

2017 Keystone Hideout 262LHS

When you drained the hot water tank did you open a faucet or open the water tank "safety valve" to allow air in the tank?

The fresh water tank can fill from the city water line if the water pumps check valve is defective. If you have the "convenience center" where you turn a knob to fill from the city water connection that valve can leak.

What do you need a funnel for?

[RVDad]

The funnel is for filling the fresh water tank with antifreeze. I have no idea if I have a convenience center. How would I know? How would I go about troubleshooting if the valve is defective?

[flybouy]

The funnel is for filling the fresh water tank with antifreeze. I have no idea if I have a convenience center. How would I know? How would I go about troubleshooting if the valve is defective?

If you need a funnel to fill the fw tank than you do not have a convenience center. Most folks don't put antifreeze in the fresh water tank to winterize. It takes a lot more to do it that way, takes a lot of rinsing to clear it out.

Most folks use a "winterizing" valve on the pump to allow the pump to siphon the antifreeze directly from the jug. The valve and hose are often attached to the pump from the factory. Using that method typically only uses 3 gal or less of antifreeze.

[JRTJH]

RVDad,

Just a note of caution: If you poured your antifreeze into the fresh water tank and (at the same time) are suggesting that there was "up to 3/4 of a tank" of water, chances are very good that your antifreeze was diluted to an extent that it won't protect your RV plumbing from freezing. As an example, if you had only 3 or 4 gallons of water remaining in the tank and poured in 3 gallons of antifreeze, you've diluted your antifreeze to at least a 50/50 mix. That means the "advertised freeze point of -30F may actually be +15F"

That said, RV antifreeze will freeze. The "protection it provides" is that it doesn't expand as it freezes, so even though it's slushy or even solidly frozen, there's no "damage incurred from expansion"... On the other hand, if your antifreeze is 1/2 water, the water in the mix will expand and can cause damage to your plumbing.....

So, if by chance, you poured your antifreeze into the fresh water tank and there was "more than a token amount" of water remaining, you may have a "false sense of protection" and your RV may be subject to damage....

Since I wasn't there and don't know what you did, I'm just bringing this to light as a precaution. If none of the above apply, then please disregard.....

[RVDad]

Good thought. I did blow the lines out prior to dumping in the antifreeze, so I'm hoping that the two gallons dumped in will be plenty for protection. We made sure that all faucets/shower/toilet ran pink afterwards.

[ctbruce]

Good thought. I did blow the lines out prior to dumping in the antifreeze, so I'm hoping that the two gallons dumped in will be plenty for protection. We made sure that all faucets/shower/toilet ran pink afterwards.The question that John was asking was if you drained your 3/4 full FW tank before you added the 2 gallons of AF or after you ran it through the system to winterize? If it was after, then your AF is too dilute to offer protection.

[RVDad]

The question that John was asking was if you drained your 3/4 full FW tank before you added the 2 gallons of AF or after you ran it through the system to winterize? If it was after, then your AF is too dilute to offer protection.

The water was drained completely and then the lines blown out prior to adding the antifreeze.

[travelin texans]

I'm with others about pouring af in the fw tank as you will NEVER drain it completely, it may quit run out but will still have up to several gallons in it due to it's shape & size.
If it were me finding out now, before a freeze, from the folks here that your af could be diluted I think I'd invest in a couple more gallons, blow out the lines again & pump straight from the af jug through the lines. A couple hours & a few bucks for more af now will be much cheaper come spring if it was too diluted to keep things from freezing.