Power out to half of Trailer

[brianguy132]

I have a 50 amp service in my trailer. I ran an electrical tester and verified that the incoming feed before the breaker is only feeding half of the two-pole breaker for a total of 110 going in. The red feed is not supplying power properly.

To troubleshoot, I checked the park power post and confirmed that each of the legs is supplying 110 and 220 properly where you plug in at. I then checked the connection at the back of the trailer and it also properly has 220 feeding the trailer. The 110 black leg is working and the 110 red leg is working and combined they show 220. The power from the red connection never reached the breaker panel.

Does the main power feed go anywhere other than the main breaker panel before distribution? Is there any place I should look for a short? Any idea why the power doesn't reach the distribution panel?

Since the power is not feeding half of the panel board one of the GFCI's also doesn't have power so the GFCI can't be reset.

Thanks for your help, any advice is appreciated.

I am running a 2010 Western Big Sky 5th Wheel Trailer.

[flybouy]

Where did you "check the connection at the back of the trailer"? At the cable that connects to the trailer or inside at the back of the plug that the cable connects to? Do you have an EMS or Surge protection device mounted inside? Do you have an automatic transfer switch for a generator? Need to know these things before knowing if there are any more connections between outside and the distribution panel inside.

BTW, it sounds like you are looking for an "open circuit" and not a "short".

[brianguy132]

Where did you "check the connection at the back of the trailer"? At the cable that connects to the trailer or inside at the back of the plug that the cable connects to? Do you have an EMS or Surge protection device mounted inside? Do you have an automatic transfer switch for a generator? Need to know these things before knowing if there are any more connections between outside and the distribution panel inside.

BTW, it sounds like you are looking for an "open circuit" and not a "short".
Responses to each of your questions shown below:
1. Where did you "check the connection at the back of the trailer"?

I put the tester on the back of the outlet box where the trailer wires connect to the hookup connection.

2. Do you have an EMS or Surge protection device mounted inside?

I have a surge protector mounted to the pole but I'm not aware of another inside the trailer.

3. Do you have an automatic transfer switch for a generator?
My unit did not come with a generator so I don't think there is an automatic transfer switch. But admittedly I haven't looked for it to be sure.

Thanks again for your help!

[flybouy]

Sounds like a "straight shot" from the outside connector to the panel inside. Do the simple thing first. Cycle the main breaker in the camera's distribution panel off then back on. If one phase is still out then unplug from shore power, remove panel access cover and check where the electric line comes in and make sure that connection is tight.

"The power from the red connection never reached the breaker panel.'" How did you determine this?

[brianguy132]

Sounds like a "straight shot" from the outside connector to the panel inside. Do the simple thing first. Cycle the main breaker in the camera's distribution panel off then back on. If one phase is still out then unplug from shore power, remove panel access cover and check where the electric line comes in and make sure that connection is tight.

"The power from the red connection never reached the breaker panel.'" How did you determine this?
During my troubleshooting I replaced the 2 pole breaker which also had the same issue so I'm pretty sure it's not a loose connection at the panel.

1. "The power from the red connection never reached the breaker panel.'" How did you determine this?

I put my tester on the red leg and then bypassed the breaker to the back of the panel which showed no power. I also connected the tester to both the 110 legs and thought that it should have showed 220 which only showed 110. It did show 220 on the back of the trailer between the red and black cables. I also connected the tester to the red cable and ground which showed no power.

I'm stumped. My only idea is pulling the red cable out of the hookup connection at the back of the trailer, inspecting it, and re-connecting it ensuring it has a full connection. I did tighten the screw and tested to make sure the screw securing it was hot but I didn't inspect the cable to verify if I was just crimping wire insulation. The probablility of this helping is pretty slim but it's the only weak point I can think of unless the cable itself has an issue.

[flybouy]

"I'm stumped. My only idea is pulling the red cable out of the hookup connection at the back of the trailer, inspecting it, and re-connecting it ensuring it has a full connection. I did tighten the screw and tested to make sure the screw securing it was hot but I didn't inspect the cable to verify if I was just crimping wire insulation. The probablility of this helping is pretty slim but it's the only weak point I can think of unless the cable itself has an issue."

This would be logical, after you disconnect the power. The other "test" would be to check the continuity of the red wire inside with an ohmmeter and the power off. Disconnect both ends of the red wire. Take a length of wire (size not important) of sufficient length to reach each end. Connect the smaller wire to one end of the red wire and to the meter. Take the other test lead from the meter and touch it to the other end of the red wire. The resistance should be zero or near zero depending on the meter setting.

[brianguy132]

Completing the loop sounds like a great idea. I'll try that out and let you know how it works. Thanks again for the idea and your help!

[flybouy]

We had someone here recently that had a short from one line to ground that was making a "hot skin" condition. Aluminum sided trailer that would shock you if you touched any metal on the outside of the camper.

They had a mobile tech out and found the main feed to the inside panel had a staple thru the wire under a cabinet. Hope you find an "easy fix" for yours. Let us know.

[+Ruff Rider]

STOP before you go any further!!!
First of all your rig only uses 110 volts on a 50 amp service. There is nothing in your rv that uses 220 volts. There are 2 circuits in your RV, a 12 volt and a 110 volt. Even your AC unit only runs on 110 volts. Now you may ask why I know this is because I hooked mine to a 220 service and blew up my inverter. I almost did it twice. They are only $300. You have a 110 volt on a 50 amp service. You only have 3 wires to hook up. White, Black and a green. White is common. Black is hot. Green is ground. Do not get the wires crossed. IMPORTANT. If you hook up 220 to your RV you will damage something. I found this out the hard way. Learn from my mistake and ONLY run 110 volts to your RV.

[sourdough]

STOP before you go any further!!!
First of all your rig only uses 110 volts on a 50 amp service. There is nothing in your rv that uses 220 volts. There are 2 circuits in your RV, a 12 volt and a 110 volt. Even your AC unit only runs on 110 volts. Now you may ask why I know this is because I hooked mine to a 220 service and blew up my inverter. I almost did it twice. They are only $300. You have a 110 volt on a 50 amp service. You only have 3 wires to hook up. White, Black and a green. White is common. Black is hot. Green is ground. Do not get the wires crossed. IMPORTANT. If you hook up 220 to your RV you will damage something. I found this out the hard way. Learn from my mistake and ONLY run 110 volts to your RV.


You need to double check. You have 3 wires on a 15/20A service as well as 30A. You have 4 wires on a 50A service - 2 hot 120VAC legs, grd and neutral. So in essence you have THREE circuits in your RV; 1 12vdc and 2 120vac legs.

[JRTJH]

STOP before you go any further!!!
First of all your rig only uses 110 volts on a 50 amp service. There is nothing in your rv that uses 220 volts. There are 2 circuits in your RV, a 12 volt and a 110 volt. Even your AC unit only runs on 110 volts. Now you may ask why I know this is because I hooked mine to a 220 service and blew up my inverter. I almost did it twice. They are only $300. You have a 110 volt on a 50 amp service. You only have 3 wires to hook up. White, Black and a green. White is common. Black is hot. Green is ground. Do not get the wires crossed. IMPORTANT. If you hook up 220 to your RV you will damage something. I found this out the hard way. Learn from my mistake and ONLY run 110 volts to your RV.

You need to double check. You have 3 wires on a 15/20A service as well as 30A. You have 4 wires on a 50A service - 2 hot 120VAC legs, grd and neutral. So in essence you have THREE circuits in your RV; 1 12vdc and 2 120vac legs.

Maybe I'm missing something in Ruff Rider's post, but it's my understanding that ALL 50 amp RV input is ALWAYS two 120Volt legs, a neutral and a common ground. That ALWAYS provides for the potential for 240 volts (depending on where you put the multimeter leads). When measured between L1 and L2, you'll ALWAYS read 240 volts, between either L1 or L2 and neutral or ground will ALWAYS read 120 volts....

CONVERSELY, in a 30 amp circuit, you can wire it with one hot, one neutral and one ground (120 volt RV outlet) or you can wire it with two hots and one neutral/ground (240 volt "dryer" outlet)....

There's ALWAYS 240 volt potential in every 50 amp RV shore power cord/power center and you can ALWAYS read 240 volts in an operational and properly functioning RV shore power cord/power center (if you measure between L1 and L2).

Since wires don't "change position on terminals" without assistance, if the trailer was working previously, AND if the OP has not "rewired" his power center, then the loss of one leg (half of the dual connector strip terminals) has to be either an issue with a loose connection or a bad circuit breaker (if in the shore power cord or inside the trailer) or a bad power input at the campground plug.

Sourdough is correct, you'll always have two 120 volt incoming circuits in a "properly wired" 50 amp RV circuit and the "potential between them is no different than a 50 amp "stove plug" in a S&B house". It's 120 volts on each leg (to ground or neutral) AND always 240 volts between those two legs.

[bobbecky]

Depending on the park, and there are some that you will not get 240 volts from hot to hot but will only get 208 volts, but you will still get 120 volts from either hot leg to the ground or neutral, so don’t panic if you run across this situation.

[flybouy]

Depending on the park, and there are some that you will not get 240 volts from hot to hot but will only get 208 volts, but you will still get 120 volts from either hot leg to the ground or neutral, so don’t panic if you run across this situation.

That's dependent on how the transformer from the utility company is wired. Typically Delta, Y, or Delta Y. Receiving a 208 V reading is typically not found in "modern" residential use.

[Customer1]

STOP before you go any further!!!
First of all your rig only uses 110 volts on a 50 amp service. There is nothing in your rv that uses 220 volts. There are 2 circuits in your RV, a 12 volt and a 110 volt. Even your AC unit only runs on 110 volts. Now you may ask why I know this is because I hooked mine to a 220 service and blew up my inverter. I almost did it twice. They are only $300. You have a 110 volt on a 50 amp service. You only have 3 wires to hook up. White, Black and a green. White is common. Black is hot. Green is ground. Do not get the wires crossed. IMPORTANT. If you hook up 220 to your RV you will damage something. I found this out the hard way. Learn from my mistake and ONLY run 110 volts to your RV.

The post quoted is darn near 100% wrong. Ruff Rider should not be giving this incorrect info and I hope no one believes it.

[chuckster57]

The post quoted is darn near 100% wrong. Ruff Rider should not be giving this incorrect info and I hope no one believes it.

Ok, I’ve sat back and watched this thread. Can you explain what is “wrong”?

[sourdough]

Chuck,

"You have a 110 volt on a 50 amp service. You only have 3 wires to hook up. White, Black and a green. White is common. Black is hot. Green is ground."

I'm sleepy too....:D

[chuckster57]

Chuck,



"You have a 110 volt on a 50 amp service. You only have 3 wires to hook up. White, Black and a green. White is common. Black is hot. Green is ground."



I'm sleepy too....:D



Yeah 50A service will have 4 physical conductors, but in the end it’s still 2 legs of 110, not 220.

These type of threads can get people “amped up” with 110/220 arguments. There isn’t any appliance in an RV that uses 220 and in that regard he is 100% correct.

30A service will have 3 physical conductors.

[flybouy]

Maybe this will help. The 50 AMP is 120 v per conductor, is is also 240 v between the 2 lines. This is because the 2 lines are "out of phase" from each other. Below is the proper 30 and 50 amp RV services wire diagram.

[rhagfo]

Yeah 50A service will have 4 physical conductors, but in the end it’s still 2 legs of 110, not 220.

These type of threads can get people “amped up” with 110/220 arguments. There isn’t any appliance in an RV that uses 220 and in that regard he is 100% correct.

30A service will have 3 physical conductors.

Sorry Chuck, My Cheap heat system uses 220v to give 5,000 watts of heat. I tapped the main and have a 30 amp, 220 v disconnect within 10' of the main panel. I plan on replacing my main with a double half size breaker that will be 50/30.

[rhagfo]

STOP before you go any further!!!
First of all your rig only uses 110 volts on a 50 amp service. There is nothing in your rv that uses 220 volts. There are 2 circuits in your RV, a 12 volt and a 110 volt. Even your AC unit only runs on 110 volts. Now you may ask why I know this is because I hooked mine to a 220 service and blew up my inverter. I almost did it twice. They are only $300. You have a 110 volt on a 50 amp service. You only have 3 wires to hook up. White, Black and a green. White is common. Black is hot. Green is ground. Do not get the wires crossed. IMPORTANT. If you hook up 220 to your RV you will damage something. I found this out the hard way. Learn from my mistake and ONLY run 110 volts to your RV.

Ruff Rider, you have been called out on this, but you are soooo wrong!
You likely only have a 30 amp service on your RV, and 30 amp services and pedestal 30 amp outlet is only 110v and 30 amps, three wire.

The 50 amp outlet on the pedestal provides 220v and 50 amps. The breaker panel in the RV is designed differently than the one in your house. The two buss bars go different directions rather than parallel like a house.

[chuckster57]

Sorry Chuck, My Cheap heat system uses 220v to give 5,000 watts of heat. I tapped the main and have a 30 amp, 220 v disconnect within 10' of the main panel. I plan on replacing my main with a double half size breaker that will be 50/30.



Ok, I should have said NO appliance installed AT THE FACTORY in a Keystone product.

Can’t speak to Prevost but I can say Tiffen and Newmar Dont.

[flybouy]

Ruff Rider, you have been called out on this, but you are soooo wrong!
You likely only have a 30 amp service on your RV, and 30 amp services and pedestal 30 amp outlet is only 110v and 30 amps, three wire.

The 50 amp outlet on the pedestal provides 220v and 50 amps. The breaker panel in the RV is designed differently than the one in your house. The two buss bars go different directions rather than parallel like a house.

I don't know what service entrance and distribution panel you have in your house but every residential service installed since post WWII that have breakers and glass screw in fuses are EXACTLY like a 50 amp RV panel.

You have two line bus bars that are interlaced but do not touch each other. One fed with a black wire, one fed with a red wire. Breakers on the left are on one phase and breakers on the right are on a different phase and they provide 120 volts. A double pole breaker spans both bus bars and therefore provide 240 volts. The double pole breaker is mechanically tied together so that if a 240 v appliance trips the breaker ALL voltage will be removed from the circuit.

On each side of the panel box interior there is a bus bar for the neutral, and a bus bar for the ground. The white wire is attached to neutral and the green or "bare" wire is attached to the ground bus.

Not to argue, just an attempt to clarify.

[Customer1]

Ok, I’ve sat back and watched this thread. Can you explain what is “wrong”?

I can but I don't need to, others already have.

[rhagfo]

I don't know what service entrance and distribution panel you have in your house but every residential service installed since post WWII that have breakers and glass screw in fuses are EXACTLY like a 50 amp RV panel.

You have two line bus bars that are interlaced but do not touch each other. One fed with a black wire, one fed with a red wire. Breakers on the left are on one phase and breakers on the right are on a different phase and they provide 120 volts. A double pole breaker spans both bus bars and therefore provide 240 volts. The double pole breaker is mechanically tied together so that if a 240 v appliance trips the breaker ALL voltage will be removed from the circuit.

On each side of the panel box interior there is a bus bar for the neutral, and a bus bar for the ground. The white wire is attached to neutral and the green or "bare" wire is attached to the ground bus.

Not to argue, just an attempt to clarify.

Flybouy, great description of a residential distribution box, but that is not the way RV distribution panels are not built the same way.
The two buss bars in an RV 50 amp panel go opposite directions from the 50 amp double main in the middle. Each side is a 50 amp 110 volt leg. You can get a Quad half size main in a 50/20 or 50/30 configuration which will give you 1 220v circuit with what amperage the outer breakers were rated for.

[flybouy]

Flybouy, great description of a residential distribution box, but that is not the way RV distribution panels are not built the same way.
The two buss bars in an RV 50 amp panel go opposite directions from the 50 amp double main in the middle. Each side is a 50 amp 110 volt leg. You can get a Quad half size main in a 50/20 or 50/30 configuration which will give you 1 220v circuit with what amperage the outer breakers were rated for.

You are absolutely correct, I was thinking of the 50 amp main breaker tied together and forgot they are for the most part horizontal bus bars vs vertical. Thanks for correcting me.

[Daryles]

RV electrical wiring.
RVs use 50 amp NEMA 14-50r outlet, BUT they use two 120v legs. NOT 240v.
Very good article explaining this.
https://www.rvtravel.com/rv-electricity-power-principals-50-amp-shore-power/
Also...
https://www.rvtravel.com/can-i-use-a-welder-outlet-for-50-amp-rv-power/
Other useful link.
http://www.myrv.us/electric/
Also...
https://www.keystonerv.com/upper-navigation-pages/community/krv-blog/content-container/simple-as-pie-understanding-your-rvs-electrical-systems/

[Ppk123]

Start at the beginning open the pedestal up make sure all the wires on the plug are connected and hot or grounded or neutral had a similar problem half the RV didn’t work the white neutral wire was off the back of the plug at the pedestal. But I had 110 on red and black and 18 v on white to ground. Start at the beginning.

[LHaven]

RV electrical wiring.
RVs use 50 amp NEMA 14-50r outlet, BUT they use two 120v legs. NOT 240v.
Very good article explaining this.
https://www.rvtravel.com/rv-electricity-power-principals-50-amp-shore-power/

But even that article contradicts you (and it's right).

The two hot leads in a 50A outlet are each 120V from neutral, but 240 (less often 208)V from each other. If anything in your RV wanted 240V, it could get some by using both hot lines. Now, most RV's don't make use of this (a few do). However, 240V is still AVAILABLE in your RV, e.g., to give you a really nice jolt if you're careless.

The article goes on to say that if both hots in a 50A outlet are on the same phase (two 120V conductors that have 0V instead of 240V between them) it is dangerous, because you will overload the neutral conductor. So you can't have "just 120V" in a 50A RV.

There is really no difference here between an RV feed and a home feed. They both have two 120V hots out of phase, providing 240V between them.

[Customer1]

But even that article contradicts you (and it's right).

The two hot leads in a 50A outlet are each 120V from neutral, but 240 (less often 208)V from each other. If anything in your RV wanted 240V, it could get some by using both hot lines. Now, most RV's don't make use of this (a few do). However, 240V is still AVAILABLE in your RV, e.g., to give you a really nice jolt if you're careless.

The article goes on to say that if both hots in a 50A outlet are on the same phase (two 120V conductors that have 0V instead of 240V between them) it is dangerous, because you will overload the neutral conductor. So you can't have "just 120V" in a 50A RV.

There is really no difference here between an RV feed and a home feed. They both have two 120V hots out of phase, providing 240V between them.

https://banner2.cleanpng.com/20180331/foe/kisspng-social-media-facebook-like-button-clip-art-like-5abf6f26597c13.1588540715224952703665.jpg

I don't understand why this is such a difficult concept to grasp and why it is argued so often

[ChuckS]

What I’d really like to know is did the OP resolve the missing leg of 120VAC into his RV and if so what did he find. ???

[chuckster57]

What I’d really like to know is did the OP resolve the missing leg of 120VAC into his RV and if so what did he find. ???



Me too, Hope we hear.

[jimborokz]

I think maybe this 120/240V trip into the ding weeds has driven our OP to find another source for help.:cool:

[notanlines]

I'm inclined to go along with Jim and his 'ding weeds' theory, although this is how most postings go after about 10-12 answers. Usually there are just so many good suggestions and then we vector off into never-never land. OP did say he would get back to us so let's continue to be patient.

[ctbruce]

I checked and there hasn't been an RV fire in St. George, Utah since 1/7/19. So he may still be fixing it.

[flybouy]

I checked and there hasn't been an RV fire in St. George, Utah since 1/7/19. So he may still be fixing it.

Did it leave a black spot on the side of the road?:horse:

[Park1911]

I'd like to chime in and offer this. I had a similar situation to the OP. My fix was to reattach the disconnected hot leg located in the shore power cord end that plugs into the trailer. I still use the connector. It is a Marinco 50 AMP female connector that inserts into a male part that is mounted onto the trailer. The weight of the power cord caused one hot leg wire to pull out of the connector. The effected wire connector was located on the top side of the plug when connected to the trailer. I reattached the wire and everything worked.

[travelin texans]

Did it leave a black spot on the side of the road?:horse:

ALL of those are from refrigerator fires not electrical!!

[travelin texans]

I'd like to chime in and offer this. I had a similar situation to the OP. My fix was to reattach the disconnected hot leg located in the shore power cord end that plugs into the trailer. I still use the connector. It is a Marinco 50 AMP female connector that inserts into a male part that is mounted onto the trailer. The weight of the power cord caused one hot leg wire to pull out of the connector. The effected wire connector was located on the top side of the plug when connected to the trailer. I reattached the wire and everything worked.

After our 2nd RV years ago had this problem I bought the 90 degree short adapter so the cord was hanging straight down.
24335

[JRTJH]

I've often wondered why the RV manufacturers never installed a cable strain relief on the heavier 50 amp shore power cords. Those cables often weigh well over 50 pounds and are heavy enough to pull out of most trailer cord connectors just from their own weight. Problems with damaged cord ends and trailer connector outlets are a common problem.

There are 90 degree adapters available as Danny posted, but the outlet in the trailer wall or convenience center still must support the entire weight of the "hanging part of the cable".

A cable strain relief system is available, slip it onto the cable, then "hang it onto the bumper or install a hook to hold it and it will "lift the cable" removing all the excess weight and prevent gravity from pulling the cable/outlet and prevent damage to both.

Here's one link to a cable strain relief (there are hundreds available) https://www.amazon.com/Woodhead-36564-Bus-Drop-Galvanized-Approximate/dp/B0026H5CR6/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2XOSXRRX6BGKC&keywords=cable+strain+relief+mesh&qid=1573490606&sprefix=cable+strain+relief%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-7

Alternatively, you can simply take a couple of "heavy duty zip ties" and build your own cable relief system by putting one zip tie around the cable 3 or 4 feet from the connector, making a loop with another zip tie (inside the first), tighten the zip tie around the cable and leave a loop in the other to hang on a hook or even around the back bumper of the trailer. That will lift the cable, removing the weight that "pulls the cable connection at the trailer outlet".

Most people with 30 amp shore power cords won't have to deal with the excess weight of the heavier cable, but even with them, installing a cable strain relief can prevent damage if someone "trips on the cord, pulling it at the trailer connection"...

[flybouy]

ALL of those are from refrigerator fires not electrical!!

Oh, OK Thanks! :lol:

[flybouy]

Marinco has sold these cord clips for 30A shore cables for decades. Fairly popular on boats. I guess the 50 A cord ir just to large/heavy to have a "practical" sized clip.

[jimborokz]

After our 2nd RV years ago had this problem I bought the 90 degree short adapter so the cord was hanging straight down.
24335

Added this piece to my power cord this year based on discussions at this forum and before I had any problems. This certainly may be the very spot of the OP's problem.

[flybouy]

I have a 50 amp service in my trailer. I ran an electrical tester and verified that the incoming feed before the breaker is only feeding half of the two-pole breaker for a total of 110 going in. The red feed is not supplying power properly.

To troubleshoot, I checked the park power post and confirmed that each of the legs is supplying 110 and 220 properly where you plug in at. I then checked the connection at the back of the trailer and it also properly has 220 feeding the trailer. The 110 black leg is working and the 110 red leg is working and combined they show 220. The power from the red connection never reached the breaker panel.

Does the main power feed go anywhere other than the main breaker panel before distribution? Is there any place I should look for a short? Any idea why the power doesn't reach the distribution panel?

Since the power is not feeding half of the panel board one of the GFCI's also doesn't have power so the GFCI can't be reset.

Thanks for your help, any advice is appreciated.

I am running a 2010 Western Big Sky 5th Wheel Trailer.

According to the first post the "backside" of the 50 Amp trailer receptacle tested ok.

[chuckster57]

Maybe this question as been asked- is there a transfer switch? Had a new unit that lost 1/2 when on gen. Found one hot lead not hooked up.

It’s early and..NO I didn’t go back and read the whole thread again.

[brianguy132]

Thanks to all of you for your help. I had an RV repair guy come by and he identified that the western big sky RV came generator ready and had a hidden automatic transfer switch. He unscrewed the wall that was directly below the power panel in the storage area below the trailer and identified the 8" x 8" x 4" automatic transfer switch. We could have either bypassed the transfer switch or replaced it so we replaced it which allowed the power to flow to the panel properly. The red feed that was supplying power in the transfer switch had pulled out of the switch most of the way from traveling so it wasn't a strong connection as well which may have caused the line to heat up pulling to much power through a smaller wire connection and damaging the transfer switch.

So the issue has been fixed. This forum has been a great help. Thanks again to everyone.

[chuckster57]

Maybe this question as been asked- is there a transfer switch? Had a new unit that lost 1/2 when on gen. Found one hot lead not hooked up.

It’s early and..NO I didn’t go back and read the whole thread again.
I may have guessed right :angel:

[ctbruce]

I may have guessed right :angel:Show off...

[flybouy]

Chuck's new handle should be "Carnac the Magnificent":bow:

[chuckster57]

Or buy a lottery ticket?

[flybouy]

Or buy a lottery ticket?

Chuck, by me a lotto ticket, if it's a winner I'll send you a dollar for the ticket!

[chuckster57]

Chuck, by me a lotto ticket, if it's a winner I'll send you a dollar for the ticket!

You got it. Ill be really retired and fulltimer. Wonder what truck and trailer I will get. :cool:

[flybouy]

You got it. Ill be really retired and fulltimer. Wonder what truck and trailer I will get. :cool:

Biggest 5 ver ever built and a f150 v6!:lol:

[MarkEHansen]

Don't forget - that's F150 is going to need the full towing package! :)

[chuckster57]

It will have air bags.

[flybouy]

And swap out the P tires for LT.:)

[chuckster57]

As long as they fit on 26” rims with spinners LOL