Level Up jacks drifting down while in storage.

[Bamawig]

My 2018 Keystone Avalanche has the Lippert Level Up system and I really enjoy it. It has developed a problem in the last few months however. The rear and middle jacks will drift down while the trailer in in storage. The front jacks hole firm. Is anyone else having this problem? Thanks in advance.

[rsv4pilot]

Ours occasionally drift down during travel!!! Dealer looked at them and found nothing wrong, $149 later on the next trip they drifted down again......

Taking trailer to LCI next week to see if they can figure it out.....

[gearhead]

You seeing any oil from a leak?
Might try changing the hydraulic fluid and adding a quart of Torco racing motorcycle fork oil.

[Brantlyj]

You both need PO checks on the side of the cylinder that extends. That would hydraulically lock them in place. However it would just be easier and cheaper to chain or pin them in place.

Surprised they don’t have some kind of retention devise. Any truck with outriggers pin are mandated to be retained even though they are hydraulically locked.

[chuckster57]

I would be looking at the manifold and solenoids.

[Reset19]

We have also had jacks drift down during travel. Does not always occur. Please post if you find something.

[Bamawig]

Thanks for the input. I should have included in the original post that there are no signs of leaks in any of the system. I was wondering if a solenoid could be the problem. I have emailed Lippert but no reply to date. I will post any info I get. Thanks again.

[xrated]

Chuckster nailed it. If hydraulic cylinders are drifting down, the most likely problem is with the hydraulic directional valve. These valves have a spool inside them that shifts one direction and allows the hydraulic fluid to flow to the cylinder to extend it. Then, when you need to retract the cylinder, the spool in the directional valve shifts the other direction, allowing the hydraulic fluid to pressurize the opposite end of the cylinder and make it retract. The shifting of the spool is caused by electrical solenoids, one on each end of the directional valve. When the valve is not being operated, the spool is normally "centered" in the valve body and should be blocking any flow of hydraulic fluid to move through the hydraulic circuits in either direction. I've said all that as an explanation of how they work so that it makes sense to you when I say that there are a couple of possibilities for the cylinder dropping down or extending.

1. A physical leak in the line that goes to a cylinder.....which isn't likely because your issue is happening to more than one cylinder. A leak, somewhat in the line or cylinder circuit allows fluid to escape and the cylinder moves. Again, this is most likely NOT happening because there are multiple cylinders being affected by the problem.

2. The next item to look at is the directional valve. If that valve spool isn't centering, for whatever reason, that can cause the issue. Not returning to center could because by a weak centering spring. It could also be caused by contaminated hydraulic fluid. If it is "dirty" fluid, particles in the fluid could be causing the spool to not be able to travel fully to the center (blocking) position.

3. Directional valve spool "O" rings. The spool will have them in many instances and they work in conjunction with the spool centering to prevent fluid leaking past them and allowing fluid to flow, thus the cylinder movement happening.

4. This one is very rare and almost NEVER is the cause, but if there was an electrical issue whereby, a small voltage was acting on the solenoid electrical coil, causing it to be energized enough to keep the valve spool in the center or blocking position. The only reason I included it is because it is a possibility......but extremely unlikely.

So in closing, most of the time the directional valve is a throw away part. Problems inside the valve....throw it away and put a new one on. The problem lies in the fact that if the fluid is contaminated and caused the valve to malfunction, putting a new valve on will only work properly until enough contamination gets into it, and it malfunction again. So what I'm saying here is that the system needs to be diagnosed correctly and any sign of contaminated fluid should be dealt with BEFORE putting a new valve back on. System oil will need to be flushed and replaced to insure no contaminants are in the system before placing a new valve in service.

Sorry for the long post, but the issue does deserve an explanation.

[ChuckS]

Your issue should be easy to isolate. The mid/rear hyd level legs operate in tandem

One solenoid valve for each side

Either the solenoid valve is not right or leaking or one of the two leg pistons is leaking internally

[Bamawig]

Thank you all for the quick and informative responses. Below is the response I received from LCI. I haven't had time to troubleshoot the issu yet but wanted to share the info I have. I will update with results later.

Thanks again.
Good afternoon Randy,

Thank you for reaching out to us directly at LCI concerning this issue. Are all 4 rear jacks, 2 middle and 2 rear, drifting down or is it only one side of the trailer? I would start by checking the valves on the valve block near the pump assembly. The drivers side valve will have a purple wire and the passenger side valve will have a blue wire. Use a 5/32 allen wrench and turn the center set screw counter clockwise. If it does not turn, do not force it as it will break. You are checking to see if they are open. If they are not, then issue will be with a jack, or multiple jacks are internally bypassing. The middle and rear on drivers side are plumbed together and same with the passenger side jacks. If one of the jacks is internally bypassing, it can cause the other to leak down, making you think its the one drifting but could be the opposite so you will want to do cylinder bypass tests on each leg to confirm. To do a cylinder bypass test you will remove the extend hose, closest to the frame rail and usually orange, and you will want to press and hold retract for 10 seconds on each jack. If you have any fluid that comes out of the port on the jack, the jack is internally bypassing and will need replacing. If no jacks are bypassing, replace both valves for the rear legs and the issue should go away.

I have added a couple of links below that will assist. If you have any questions while doing this, you can email back or you can contact our phone techs at 574-537-8900

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws.com/manuals/leveling-and-stabilization/ccd_0001749.pdf

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws.com/manuals/leveling-and-stabilization/ccd_0001531.pdf

[xrated]

Great information...^^^^^....thanks for following up on that!

[Reset19]

Thank you !!!

[ChuckS]

So curious if you checked the solenoid valve for e side drifting down to see if it’s manual override screw was loose ... as I had stayed there are only 2 things to cause your issue

Solenoid valve for that side only or leaking internal piston.

[Bamawig]

I did the troubleshooting as described. First I checked the valves with an allen wrench and they were found to be open, i.e. turned fully in the counter clockwise direction. I verified this by closing each one a few turns and returning it to fully open. Then I did the cylinder bypass test which passed with flying colors.
I don't know if this means anything, but I did notice something. During the cylinder bypass test you are told to hold the retrace button for 10 seconds. The retract pressure switch cycled the pump 2 or 3 times during that 10 seconds once the jacks are fully retracted. Normally I retract the jacks using the "Auto Retract" function. I'm not sure what stops the "Auto Retract" function but I don't recall ever hearing the pump cycle. I did the test 2 days ago and the jacks are still fully retracted.
The next step would be to replace the valves and/or rig some type of restraint to hold the jacks up.

[ChuckS]

If you correctly tested the mid/rear pair of hyd leveling cylinders per Lipperts PDF and had no fluid dripping out of the hoses then cylinders are good

Also you said you opened and closed solenoids for mid/rear leveling legs...

NOTE... each side.. mid/rear legs are connected in tandem...one solenoid for LEAD jack and none on follower jack

One side has ZERO to do with the other side

Auto retract function STOP point is determined when the hydraulic pressure in the system reaches a set value triggering the HI pressure cutoff switch mounted on the hydraulic system manifold block..

Once pressure trips hi pressure switch the system “Assumes” all leveler legs are fully retracted. If there is a bit of air in one of the lines on lead/follower legs on one side then it will not fully retract and will most ,likely bleed down

I only use manual retract and I retract rear legs first followed but front LG.. I visually verify they are fully up

It’s a pretty robust system if you keep the leveler leg exposed pistons clean and wipe down prior to retracting

Some times just a few full up and full extend cycles on the leveling system is all that’s needed if a bit of air has entered the system...system self bleeds

[BIG_J]

Chuckster nailed it. If hydraulic cylinders are drifting down, the most likely problem is with the hydraulic directional valve. These valves have a spool inside them that shifts one direction and allows the hydraulic fluid to flow to the cylinder to extend it. Then, when you need to retract the cylinder, the spool in the directional valve shifts the other direction, allowing the hydraulic fluid to pressurize the opposite end of the cylinder and make it retract. The shifting of the spool is caused by electrical solenoids, one on each end of the directional valve. When the valve is not being operated, the spool is normally "centered" in the valve body and should be blocking any flow of hydraulic fluid to move through the hydraulic circuits in either direction. I've said all that as an explanation of how they work so that it makes sense to you when I say that there are a couple of possibilities for the cylinder dropping down or extending.

1. A physical leak in the line that goes to a cylinder.....which isn't likely because your issue is happening to more than one cylinder. A leak, somewhat in the line or cylinder circuit allows fluid to escape and the cylinder moves. Again, this is most likely NOT happening because there are multiple cylinders being affected by the problem.

2. The next item to look at is the directional valve. If that valve spool isn't centering, for whatever reason, that can cause the issue. Not returning to center could because by a weak centering spring. It could also be caused by contaminated hydraulic fluid. If it is "dirty" fluid, particles in the fluid could be causing the spool to not be able to travel fully to the center (blocking) position.

3. Directional valve spool "O" rings. The spool will have them in many instances and they work in conjunction with the spool centering to prevent fluid leaking past them and allowing fluid to flow, thus the cylinder movement happening.

4. This one is very rare and almost NEVER is the cause, but if there was an electrical issue whereby, a small voltage was acting on the solenoid electrical coil, causing it to be energized enough to keep the valve spool in the center or blocking position. The only reason I included it is because it is a possibility......but extremely unlikely.

So in closing, most of the time the directional valve is a throw away part. Problems inside the valve....throw it away and put a new one on. The problem lies in the fact that if the fluid is contaminated and caused the valve to malfunction, putting a new valve on will only work properly until enough contamination gets into it, and it malfunction again. So what I'm saying here is that the system needs to be diagnosed correctly and any sign of contaminated fluid should be dealt with BEFORE putting a new valve back on. System oil will need to be flushed and replaced to insure no contaminants are in the system before placing a new valve in service.

Sorry for the long post, but the issue does deserve an explanation.

Maybe you can help me. I just bought a 2018 320 rs and the issues I’m having is the passenger side jacks are being pushed down with a lot of pressure. Not sure where this pressure is coming from. So much pressure I had to use ratchet straps to get home and the straps folded and cut the snap blocks. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.