View Full Version : Best way to fix this
Washing the trailer for this weekends camping trip and found this. What's the best way to fix it for the weekend, then a proper repair afterwards?
Thanks!
wiredgeorge
10-14-2019, 10:09 AM
If it doesn't rain nothing needs to be done on your weekend trip; I would cover the area with a garbage bag and some duct tape if there is a chance of rain. Then stop at an RV supply place and buy some Dicor self leveling (that issue is on the roof?). Use a plastic putty knife and remove any loose old Dicor (that is what it is) and recoat the area with new self leveling Dicor. If I am off base and the problem is on the side of the trailer, use NON SELF LEVELING Dicor else it will run when it gets warm and make a mess. Don't use a substitute especially silicon or caulk. They won't make it down the road or there will be adherence issues.
That's actually looking down towards the front of the TT. If you cock you head to the left while looking at the pic, it's better. Sent the pic from my phone.
wiredgeorge
10-14-2019, 10:25 AM
Point is, stuff is OLD OLD Dicor; all of it needs to be resealed most likely. If it is on TOP (aka roof), use SELF LEVELING. On sides of trailer, use NON SELF LEVELING. Get loose stuff off with plastic putty knife then just coat over the top of the old stuff with Dicor using a caulking gun. Get up on your roof and if you see ANY cracks or flaking in the Dicor, get 'er done ASAP.
Pic turned the correct way
https://i.vgy.me/duUoH0.jpg
I'm not too worried about it as it's for the rubber channel. But, as I learned from Jurassic Park, life finds a way. When I get home next week I'll remove all the old stuff and replace it.
sourdough
10-14-2019, 01:23 PM
I would be worried about it. That's an awfully big crack that goes ??? once under the surface. Also, looks like a healthy crack developing/developed going toward the front right over the edge where the roofing material attaches. I would dare say that's been going on for quite some time. Just looking I would encourage you to go over the entire roof and check the sealant. If the other is as aged and cracked as that it is there's no telling what's going on.
JRTJH
10-14-2019, 01:40 PM
^^^ What they said: If you don't already have water intrusion under the front cap molding, you will have after washing your RV and pulling it through one rainstorm.
NOW (not later) is the most advantageous time to clean the old sealant, remove any that's damaged and apply a fresh coat of self-leveling DICOR to all the areas that look like the photo that are on your roof.
Trust me when I say that area is NOT the only one allowing water under the sealant. The UV damage from the sun in SoCal will destroy the DICOR in short order. Your trailer is a 2016, so it's potentially been exposed to 4 years of UV deterioration on the DICOR sealant. Even with a "modest 3 years of deterioration" you're at least 2.5 years behind the power curve on roof maintenance.....
Is there a different recommendation other than Dicor that could potentially stand up better to the California sun?
fjr vfr
10-20-2019, 09:26 AM
Is there a different recommendation other than Dicor that could potentially stand up better to the California sun?
Probably, but Dicor is what everyone uses and it's available everywhere.
Your problem is easily fixed. The old stuff is just dried out. The corner chunk that broke away most likely dried out faster because it was a hot spot with metal underneath.
When you scrape up the old stuff use a hair dryer to soften it up. It comes off much easier. Be careful not to dig into the rubber roof. If you do it's not the end of the world...more Dicor. Use the stuff liberally.
fjr vfr
10-20-2019, 09:31 AM
One other note, you don't have to get it perfect down to bare metal and roof. The new stuff is very forgiving and will cover it all. Use liberally.
sonofcy
10-21-2019, 08:34 AM
Pic turned the correct way
https://i.vgy.me/duUoH0.jpg
I'm not too worried about it as it's for the rubber channel. But, as I learned from Jurassic Park, life finds a way. When I get home next week I'll remove all the old stuff and replace it.
Two quick observations. #1 That roof has NEVER been properly cleaned. #2 You have a hole in your ceiling. Dicor self levelling but first you need to fix/fill in the hole. Also I will bet you have more damage on the rest of the roof. Good luck!
I don't think that's a hole. Where the Dicor is missing is actually just a channel for the rubber insert that runs down the front. I'll find out for sure tomorrow!
Is there any reason I can't use Eternabond instead of Dicor for the areas that are going horizontal (where roof meets metal going down the front)?
Eternabond - "Because EternaBond® is made using MicroSealant Technology®, depending on surrounding conditions, EternaBond® has an estimated life expectancy of 18-35 years if applied correctly."
flybouy
10-22-2019, 01:30 PM
Most folks use Dicor "self leveling" on horizontal surfaces and Dicor "no sag" on vertical or non-horizontal surfaces.
sourdough
10-22-2019, 01:59 PM
I don't think that's a hole. Where the Dicor is missing is actually just a channel for the rubber insert that runs down the front. I'll find out for sure tomorrow!
Is there any reason I can't use Eternabond instead of Dicor for the areas that are going horizontal (where roof meets metal going down the front)?
Eternabond - "Because EternaBond® is made using MicroSealant Technology®, depending on surrounding conditions, EternaBond® has an estimated life expectancy of 18-35 years if applied correctly."
As Marshall said, the normal way is with Dicor. Also, if you're talking about the length that goes right from the hole in the Dicor in the pic, I would suspect there are some kind of fastener/screws under that Dicor; at least they are on mine. Eternabond is considered a "permanent" application, won't come off and is hard to deal with if you're trying to get to a screw under it. Not so with Dicor. As far as a hole or not - that's a hole. What's under it I don't know but you can bet when the put the sealant over it they intended for it to be sealed.....and stay sealed. I wouldn't even worry about looking at it anymore. I would get the old plastic scraper out, several tubes of Dicor and reseal all of the roof if it even looks sort of like anything in the pic. If you don't have damage somewhere from bad sealant you have dodged a bullet.
JRTJH
10-22-2019, 02:04 PM
[QUOTE=Rick;363905...
Is there any reason I can't use Eternabond instead of Dicor for the areas that are going horizontal (where roof meets metal going down the front)?
..."[/QUOTE]
You physically can install Eternabond tape anywhere. The question is: Is it a wise and prudent action?" The answer is, in places where you may need access to repair or adjust a component, a "permanent" repair is not wise.
There is a reason that screws are used to install the molding on the trailer edges and corners. That molding may need to be removed to make repairs in other areas. There's a reason DICOR is used (instead of Eternabond). DICOR can be removed to facilitate access to the underlying structure. Eternabond can't be removed without a good likelihood of damaging the underlying structure. That means, if you ever need to remove the molding, if it ever gets loose and you need to tighten the screws, if the vinyl "screw cover strip" ever dries out and needs to be replaced, you can't remove the Eternabond without risking significant damage to any of those underlying structures.
DICOR is the appropriate product to seal that area. Don't try to make things better by actually making them "permanent".
sonofcy
10-22-2019, 02:38 PM
You physically can install Eternabond tape anywhere. The question is: Is it a wise and prudent action?" The answer is, in places where you may need access to repair or adjust a component, a "permanent" repair is not wise.
There is a reason that screws are used to install the molding on the trailer edges and corners. That molding may need to be removed to make repairs in other areas. There's a reason DICOR is used (instead of Eternabond). DICOR can be removed to facilitate access to the underlying structure. Eternabond can't be removed without a good likelihood of damaging the underlying structure. That means, if you ever need to remove the molding, if it ever gets loose and you need to tighten the screws, if the vinyl "screw cover strip" ever dries out and needs to be replaced, you can't remove the Eternabond without risking significant damage to any of those underlying structures.
DICOR is the appropriate product to seal that area. Don't try to make things better by actually making them "permanent".
If a screw were to pop up after eternabond, just cut an X over the screw head, fix it and apply an eternabond patch. Ray of (Love Your RV) did that.
sourdough
10-22-2019, 03:09 PM
If a screw were to pop up after eternabond, just cut an X over the screw head, fix it and apply an eternabond patch. Ray of (Love Your RV) did that.
The problem will be when you lay the eternabond OVER the roof material AND the molding - no going back then if you have to do anything with the roofing material, molding OR metal; they pretty much became one without some "tap 'dancin" and extra work.
fjr vfr
10-22-2019, 03:20 PM
Think of it like around the house. Every so many years you need to re-chalk around windows, doors, sink, bath tub, etc. It's the same thing on your trailer. So many years has arrived. :D Time to re-chalk.
sonofcy
10-22-2019, 04:26 PM
Think of it like around the house. Every so many years you need to re-chalk around windows, doors, sink, bath tub, etc. It's the same thing on your trailer. So many years has arrived. :D Time to re-chalk.
I assume you mean caulk not chalk. My owners manual and warrantee docs state every 6 months and the dealer charges $300. If I do it and make a claim they will argue incorrect maintenance since it wasn't done by a dealer.
sonofcy
10-22-2019, 04:33 PM
The problem will be when you lay the eternabond OVER the roof material AND the molding - no going back then if you have to do anything with the roofing material, molding OR metal; they pretty much became one without some "tap 'dancin" and extra work.
Not sure what you are talking about, the eternabond 'patch' is simply applied over the original eternabond.
I am not arguing that it is a bitch to remove, but where I have used it is not somewhere I can imagine needing to do any 'normal' maintenance. The joint between roof and front/rear caps (where most leaks happen) and down both sides. If I had to replace the roof material I would just cut it at the edges including the eternabond and after installing the new roof TPO lay down new eternabond overlapping the new TPO and the old eternabond. I am 100% sealed now and no twice a year roof maintenance other than a wash.
sourdough
10-22-2019, 06:35 PM
Not sure what you are talking about, the eternabond 'patch' is simply applied over the original eternabond.
I am not arguing that it is a bitch to remove, but where I have used it is not somewhere I can imagine needing to do any 'normal' maintenance. The joint between roof and front/rear caps (where most leaks happen) and down both sides. If I had to replace the roof material I would just cut it at the edges including the eternabond and after installing the new roof TPO lay down new eternabond overlapping the new TPO and the old eternabond. I am 100% sealed now and no twice a year roof maintenance other than a wash.
Go for it if that's what you want to do!
The OP asked; "Is there any reason I can't use Eternabond instead of Dicor for the areas that are going horizontal (where roof meets metal going down the front)? I replied; "The problem will be when you lay the eternabond OVER the roof material AND the molding - no going back then if you have to do anything with the roofing material, molding OR metal; they pretty much became one without some "tap 'dancin" and extra work". That's just plain fact.
The OP, in my mind, asked about using eternabond (4") to cover the transition (molding) strip between the metal front, transition molding and the roof material. That IS a place where normal maintenance takes place, and, in the event of a failure in the molding/transition strip it will be FAR more than cutting an X in the eternabond and slapping another patch over it.
The OP has no experience in this and needs/wants to know what the expected outcome is/would be in various scenarios. Dicor is the chosen product for his situation unless he knows the ramifications of using other "more permanent" methods.
Thanks for all the replies. Didn’t think about screws at the front of the TT. I’ll go with the Dicor and be more vigilant about roof care.
fjr vfr
10-23-2019, 03:43 PM
I assume you mean caulk not chalk. My owners manual and warrantee docs state every 6 months and the dealer charges $300. If I do it and make a claim they will argue incorrect maintenance since it wasn't done by a dealer.
I assume you mean warranty and not warrantee. :angel: :D
Weekender 1
10-24-2019, 01:53 AM
There is a reason that screws are used to install the molding on the trailer edges and corners. That molding may need to be removed to make repairs in other areas.
Yeah they haven't come up with a better solution as of yet as to how to hold things together and screws are cheap. Has nothing to do with reaccessing things.
Between reading thee forums and the things I see in the real world, the accessing is because Dicor and similar dont hold up well long or its porrly applied and you need to access what a leak damaged.
Funny how now some manufacturers are actually still using screws, but using Eternabond like tapes to seal them. My slide tops are this way and some new 2020 I've front and backs, basically anything that does have a curve to is using to tape to seal it.
flybouy
10-24-2019, 10:00 AM
Yes the screws are easier and more economical for the factory to use. If Eternabond saved the mfg time and money they would use probably use it, I said probably because truth is none of use that I'm aware of work for Keystone or any other RV manufacturer in a position to know that information.
There are other reasons that future access to remove those screws may be a factor. Damage to the cap or sidewall, delamination of same due to window leaks, hatch leaks, air conditioner leaks, etc.
GaryUT
10-25-2019, 06:23 PM
Is there any reason I can't use Eternabond instead of Dicor for the areas that are going horizontal (where roof meets metal going down the front)?
Eternabond - "Because EternaBond® is made using MicroSealant Technology®, depending on surrounding conditions, EternaBond® has an estimated life expectancy of 18-35 years if applied correctly."
On my last trailer I used Eternabond on all the seams and anywhere else that the factory had used Dicor. I used 6" and covered the end seams and 4" around everything else. I did not remove the AC and do under it. That trailer was 14 year old when we traded it in and never had any leaks.
I plan on doing our new trailer in the spring, do it once and never have to check and re-apply Dicor.
Gary
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