Looking for cooling info on Cougar 386mbi or other Keystone5th wheels in hot climates

[CowboyTX]

We are currently considering the purchase of a new Cougar 386mbi and are seeking some feedback from current owners who have spent some time in hotter climates. We currently own a 2017 Rockwood 8329ss bumper-pull which we really like. We have had no problems with this unit and what we are most impressed with is how cool the coach stays in hot weather. We spend most summers down at the Texas coast where shoreline temperatures stay around 95 degrees and humidity is usually in the 70s. Our camper has 2 acs (Coleman Mach 3) and the temperature stays around 75 in the afternoons and will get down into the mid 60's at night and maintaining humidity levels in the low 40's. And thats with the camper sitting in full sun. Having said that, we are looking to go with a 5th wheel and especially like the larger showers and higher ceilings. My question is whether current Cougar 5th wheel owners are happy with the cooling capacities of their 5th wheels. It sounds like the units stay warm in cold weather but that is not so much a concern for us in Texas.

[wiredgeorge]

I have an older Cougar and one A/C is not up to keeping it cool in Texas in direct sun. I have made many mods to help it keep cool and supplement my new 15K BTU Dometic A/C with an 8K portable A/C vented out a window. Make sure you get 50A service in whatever 5ver you buy.

[mcmeadows1]

^x2

If you spend any amount of time in the desert Southwest, especially during summer months, you will need two AC units. This will require a 5th wheel which is wired for 50 amp service.

Do yourself a huge favor and only look at those RVs which are factory wired for 50 amps and come from the factory with two AC units. And then buy one of those.

Our 5th wheel (34 feet long) only has one AC unit (and only a 13.5k at that). In summer, the AC unit simply cannot keep the RV cool during the day. The AC is ducted throughout the RV, and the AC works very well. However, it is simply is underpowered for the application.

Two AC units are what you will need.

[CowboyTX]

So far most all of the campers we have looked at down here have two ac's from factory. It's a necessity down here. And I will definitely get 2. I know too that different manufacturers have different levels of insulation that can make a big difference even if you have both ac's. Just wondering about the ability of the Cougars to keep a comfortable temperature when it is really hot outside. I have heard good reviews on the Rockwoods and Grand Designs in regards to that.

[TxPilot2185]

I have a 2020 368MBI and it does a good job of staying cool. I’ve camped with no shade in south TX and the hottest it got inside was about 79 with outside temps over 105. I cut up some reflective insulation panels to put in the windows and that helped a lot.

[CowboyTX]

Thanks TXPilot - that’s the info I was looking for. If it cools to 15-20 degrees below outdoor temp then that’s about all we can hope for. The camper must have sufficient insulation then. Are you guys happy with the 386mbi.

[wiredgeorge]

As I said, we use an 8K portable to supplement the 15K Dometic on the roof but even more, we added very dark tint to our windows which helped a TON and I went through and sealed all the air outlets so they didn't leak into the void and sealed between the in and out on the lower A/C assembly so there was no leak there. I changed the outlets so they could be directed or closed. i put foam at the ends of the duct runs so cooled air didn't escape into the ceiling void. Run fans to move the air; especially from the portable A/C. This keep the cabin temps in the upper 70s in 105F direct sun. I have an RV-Armor roof which is supposed to help the cabin stay cool since it is white and reflects a bit. I try to position my 5ver (where possible) to be able to use the awning to shield from the western sun. I drink lots of fluids and try not to get out of my recliner often. LOTS can be done to mitigate the effects of the Texas sun but I wish I had a second A/C. Not sure how many Cougars have 50A service but as has been noted, those that do are braced/wired for a 2nd A/C generally. I am guessing insulation in a Cougar is not all that great.

[TxPilot2185]

Yes you will definitely get 20 degrees cooler than ambient temp. I forgot to mention that I also did the sealing between the intake and blower like the previous poster mentioned. If you take the inside ceiling cover off you will see how crappy it is from the factory. I’d say that there was at least a total of 25-30% unsealed area between the intake and blower divider section. The ducting in the 368MBI doesn’t have any dead ends, it’s a loop between the two AC’s as far as I know... so you shouldn’t need to block the ends because there are no ends, but I could be wrong. I’ve had several adult beverages after a long day at work so hopefully that all makes sense lol.

[CowboyTX]

No worries. I was having a few of those beverages myself when I read it so it made perfect sense! One last question - my big concern while researching our options, was the number of postings where people have had problems with water leaks and other issues and Keystone not honoring warranties. Any experience with that?

[sourdough]

No worries. I was having a few of those beverages myself when I read it so it made perfect sense! One last question - my big concern while researching our options, was the number of postings where people have had problems with water leaks and other issues and Keystone not honoring warranties. Any experience with that?


Your post has multiple questions. Water leaks; for us on the first night of trying out the trailer we found the black tank flush wouldn't work due to the anti siphon valve being installed backward - fixed under warranty. Not a leak per se but sort of.... We've had one leak in the water lines under the bathroom sink - tightened all connections and it was repaired. We had one leak from the galley gray tank just repaired last month. Replaced the gray tank under extended warranty.

Keystone not honoring warranties; you will get responses all over the map on that. For us, we've had a very good experience with Keystone on this trailer. Virtually everything we have submitted has been approved - some quite extensive along with their approval to make additional mods to prevent future failures. We had one warranty request that was not approved and after my intervention and involvement of the service manager, we found the service advisor submitted a request that was completely inaccurate. Accurate information submitted by the service manager got the repairs approved. I have several other instances but basically the same.

I believe, along with many others, that the dealer can make or break your warranty experience thus your satisfaction with any particular RV; Keystone or not. We've had a very good dealer and I'm on a 1st name, face recognition, holler "hi" across the room basis with the lead service advisor, service manager and GM. They take care of me.

[travelin texans]

So far most all of the campers we have looked at down here have two ac's from factory. It's a necessity down here. And I will definitely get 2. I know too that different manufacturers have different levels of insulation that can make a big difference even if you have both ac's. Just wondering about the ability of the Cougars to keep a comfortable temperature when it is really hot outside. I have heard good reviews on the Rockwoods and Grand Designs in regards to that.

Whatever RV you chose or how they advertise their heating/cooling abilities there's only so much insulation that can be put in a 2 - 2 1/2" thick wall. Doubtful that with any make or model you'd notice any difference once the outside temps got above 90 unless you're parked totally shaded. They're all built with only a couple different vendors for furnaces & air conditioners with the same laminated wall process. Dual pane windows do make huge difference, but won't find them in too many of the entry to low end RVs.
IMHO any RV over about 25' 2 acs are a must & wouldn't buy one that didn't have.

[wiredgeorge]

Trailers intended for casual campers are likely not insulated very well regardless of manufacturer. Here is a pretty honest review of a Keystone Cougar that was full timed.
https://www.loveyourrv.com/keystone-cougar-276rlswe-fifth-wheel-trailer-review/

[sourdough]

Trailers intended for casual campers are likely not insulated very well regardless of manufacturer. Here is a pretty honest review of a Keystone Cougar that was full timed.
https://www.loveyourrv.com/keystone-cougar-276rlswe-fifth-wheel-trailer-review/

I think in full disclosure it should be pointed out that this was a 2011 Cougar 5th wheel and the writer indicates 1 AC - written 18 mos. after purchase if I read correctly so may not reflect what's going on with current Cougars/ACs.

[CowboyTX]

I appreciate everyone's input and its all been helpful. And Sourdough, I especially appreciate your information and experiences. And you are right that the dealership service manager can make all the difference as we have seen the same. With so many different brands out there it can be difficult to know which way to go.

[sully585]

Cowboy,
We bought our 368mbi on September 6th and have been living in it in North Texas during the hottest September on record. Parked in direct sunlight with the fridge side facing south toward the sun all day. So pretty much a tough test for any AC’s cooling capabilities. Highest temp inside during that time was 80 degrees which I thought was decent considering the circumstances. After the sun went down the AC’s would catch up fairly quick and have it down to around 75 within an hour of sunset.

The fridge, on the other hand, struggled. Temp would normally hover around 45 degrees during the heat of the day which is not cold enough. I had to install 2 supplemental fans on the back of the fridge to help vent the air out of the cabinet. That seemed to help some but still not ideal during the day. It works much better at night of course. Normally cools down to around 37 degrees by the time we get up in the morning. It’s 88 degrees at 3pm right now and the fridge is at 38 with us being in and out of it all day.

Side note. We LOVE the 368mbi floor plan. Tons of room and the rear living room is great.

[CowboyTX]

Thanks for the post Sully. We too really like the floor plan of the 368. It’s perfect for us. But we have also looked at the Grand Design Reflection 367bhs which has the exact same floor plan. However it is probably $5000 more than the Cougar. Hm...

[sully585]

Thanks for the post Sully. We too really like the floor plan of the 368. It’s perfect for us. But we have also looked at the Grand Design Reflection 367bhs which has the exact same floor plan. However it is probably $5000 more than the Cougar. Hm...

we also looked at the Reflection first, and tried to deal with the dealership down in DFW. i was willing to pay around 3k more for the Grand Design name, but in the end they just didn't want to deal. the Keystone dealer, on the other hand, bent over backwards to make the sale to us, including giving me a Reese Goose Box hitch at their cost with free installation. so we now own a Keystone and don't regret it a bit.

[LewisB]

Thanks TXPilot - that’s the info I was looking for. If it cools to 15-20 degrees below outdoor temp then that’s about all we can hope for. The camper must have sufficient insulation then. Are you guys happy with the 386mbi.

You don't have to live with 15-20 degree differential expectations. We live in the southwest (Tucson) where the temperature commonly reaches 110. Would you be happy living with 90 degrees inside?

We have owned two different toy haulers in the 40' range. Two AC units was/is inadequate for a trailer that size. However, if set up properly, 3 AC units works really well and produces more like a 35 degree differential. So if outside is 110, then inside can be 75!

It really depends on how large of a 5er you plan to purchase. Three AC units may not be of interest to most users, but if you are going big on the trailer and commonly visit/live where the temperature is over 100, then consider upsizing your cooling.

For more information, see:
http://http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39365&highlight=3%2AAC (http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39365&highlight=3%2AAC)

[Peacemkr53]

2019 Cougar 315RLS (36')- Bought new, added the forward a/c. In Florida in June, with temps in the high 90's and humidity in the 80's we were comfortable. My set up requires 50 amps and the EMS showed we were drawing 40 to 43 amps. Saw the post about 3 a/c - concern is enough juice to run 3. IMHO

[LewisB]

2019 Cougar 315RLS (36')- Bought new, added the forward a/c. In Florida in June, with temps in the high 90's and humidity in the 80's we were comfortable. My set up requires 50 amps and the EMS showed we were drawing 40 to 43 amps. Saw the post about 3 a/c - concern is enough juice to run 3. IMHO

Right. Don't forget that a 50A RV service is not really correctly named. It is really 50A/Leg - there are two legs so in fact you can pull up to 50A+50A on this service without overloading or popping a breaker. My Surge Guard EMS remote shows our system with 3 AC units in service. One AC is on the A leg and 2 are on the B leg (plus some other load). As long as you don't run all AC units on the same leg in your WFCO power panel, you would be fine.

23987

[TYHLR]

While I don't have a Cougar I have a Keystone 40' fifth wheel with dual A/C.

As I live in FL and so far have only camped on the US east coast in the summer months, my one A/C in the living room will keep the camper in direct sunlight at a comfortable 75 with outside temps in the 90s to 100s. We only turn on the bedroom A/C when we go to bed and the camper temp will drop to below 70 if wanted.

As others have suggested make sure to check the duct sealing at the outlets, you will be surprised how shoddy the work is.

I would not buy a camper with less than 50 amp service.

Happy shopping.

[rcwaz]

I just pulled the trim to replace the el cheapo bath Fan and saw that the roof insulation was 1-1/2” thick between the top chords of the roof joists. Very disappointed.
On another matter my one slide out collects water in the middle of the roof and the floor is sagging two ways. Looking underneath the exterior wall square tube support also is sagging. General RV passed it off as “ no one builds strong slide outs anymore”. This isn’t acceptable to me. The dinette chairs rock on three legs! Unfortunately I’m leaving for a long trip south so I’ll have to find another dealer or contact Keystone.

[firestation12]

Wiredgeorge...there are 2 types of portable air conditioners. One uses a single exhaust tube to eject the heated air created from the compressor, the second type a/c employs 2 tubes....one to exhaust the compressor's condenser coil and the other tube to bring in (make up air) air to replace the exhausted air. The air ejected by the single exhaust tube type a/c, is creating a negative pressure in your camper and thus exterior air with is temperature and humidity is being drawn into the camper through whatever means possible. This raw air from the outside, adds to the cooling load. The 2 tube type portable a/c overcomes this problem by bringing in a dedicated makeup air supply to cool the compressor's condenser coil. An example of a good 2 tube a/c is a Whynter ARC-14S (non heat pump) or ARC-14H (heat pump). I used one of the ventilation doors in the garage of my toy hauler to install the 2 vent hoses.

[wiredgeorge]

2019 Cougar 315RLS (36')- Bought new, added the forward a/c. In Florida in June, with temps in the high 90's and humidity in the 80's we were comfortable. My set up requires 50 amps and the EMS showed we were drawing 40 to 43 amps. Saw the post about 3 a/c - concern is enough juice to run 3. IMHO

I think 3 A/Cs don't really run at the same time; I think some gizmo shifts the works between the three with two working at any one time. Could be mistaken but that is how I think it works. 50A just ain't enough for 3 simultaneously.

[wiredgeorge]

Wiredgeorge...there are 2 types of portable air conditioners. One uses a single exhaust tube to eject the heated air created from the compressor, the second type a/c employs 2 tubes....one to exhaust the compressor's condenser coil and the other tube to bring in (make up air) air to replace the exhausted air. The air ejected by the single exhaust tube type a/c, is creating a negative pressure in your camper and thus exterior air with is temperature and humidity is being drawn into the camper through whatever means possible. This raw air from the outside, adds to the cooling load. The 2 tube type portable a/c overcomes this problem by bringing in a dedicated makeup air supply to cool the compressor's condenser coil. An example of a good 2 tube a/c is a Whynter ARC-14S (non heat pump) or ARC-14H (heat pump). I used one of the ventilation doors in the garage of my toy hauler to install the 2 vent hoses.

I bought the 8K LG unit (one outlet vented through the window via a "custom" piece of plywood and the plastic that came with the unit) at Best Buy. We made an emergency run to Best Buy after sitting in our camper at a park with no shade and triple digit temps. Inside the cabin was in the low 80s as I recall. Since, have done all the tricks to make our 15K BTU Dometic as effective as possible AND used dark tint on the windows. The LG isn't very great but helps keep the temp in the 77-78F range in those same shadeless triple digits. I am also going to look for a more effective fan; the one we have sits on a stand and oscillates and doesn't move much air.

Have considered bracing up the front bedroom vent hole and sticking another A/C in there (ductless) and running the wires to the side of the trailer and installing an outside outlet for plugging into the 20A outlet on most pedastals but will look into the portable you recommend. It would be easier to put an outside outlet on the wall where we use our current portable. I can't really vent into the pass through due the configuration of our 5ver so it will be out the window again.

[durhamcutter]

We have a 333 2016 model Cougar that is 38 ft long and we have 2 airs and in the summer we need both, the airs that come on the Cougar are Dometic and are somewhat loud but they cool the unit, we also use fans at the top of the stairs going into the bedroom and it helps with the cooling of the living area. When the weather gets into the 80s we just use the bedroom unit and blow the cold air into the living area . love the coach it travels well and has been somewhat trouble free.

[LewisB]

I think 3 A/Cs don't really run at the same time; I think some gizmo shifts the works between the three with two working at any one time. Could be mistaken but that is how I think it works. 50A just ain't enough for 3 simultaneously.

You are partially correct - Prior to Keystone's "Omni-Chill" system introduced in late 2018/early 2019, you are correct that trailers with 3 AC units were typically factory wired with a "power share" switch that only allowed 2 of 3 AC units to operate simultaneously.

However, when connected to a properly working "50A" shore service, your statement "50A just ain't enough for 3 simultaneously" would only be correct if an RV "50A" service was limited to only 50A. That is definitely not the case. Every RV 50A service is wired to provide 12,000 watts of power through a double pole/single throw 50A breaker. The 50A service box in a "50A" RV is split into two halves (A/B) with each half receiving a nominal 120VAC/50AAC service. 120v X 50a =6,000 watts for each side of the box, or 12,000 watts total. So a "50A" RV service is really a 100A service provided the load is equally spread between the two halves of the service. That's a function of what breakers are installed on each side of the service. That's just basic electricity.

Where the rub comes, and where you are right, is when you only have a 5500 watt generator. In that case, you are absolutely correct. Once the generator is de-rated for altitude and high ambient temperatures, it produces LESS than 50 amp and you are exactly right - "it ain't enough". And the situation is even worse if you can only plug in to a 30A service. I can't speak for Keystone, but I'm guessing that's why they wired the new ones for only running 2 of 3 AC's. If you are not already bored to tears :ermm:, there is detailed information in the following thread. Take a look at the attachments in post #2 of this thread.

http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39365

Here's a nice explanation of the "50A" RV service. I got this from the forum year's ago and don't remember exactly who put this together - so I can't give them credit.

24165

[Big1]

The one thing that I did and not finish with it yet but I took off the a/c and tape up between the duct and the ceiling, see pics. I will also show you the a/c in the bedroom on how they did it, most of them from any factory are the same.

Putting the cover back on I took off the black ring and just use the 3M tape. I found out that the black plastic ring around the vent cover don't always meet with the a/c duct so you will have cold air leak that goes between the ceiling and the duct.

[Big1]

Now this is the a/c in the bedroom and even though I couldn't get good pics because it was getting late and it was dark you will see that the divider is off center, that need to be tape up with 3M tape so it will divide the hot air from the cold air.

[BillK]

We had a 2010 Cougar 318 SAB 34' which had 2 A/C units. Never been in Texas but have spent summers in South Carolina with temps in the high 90's and humidity around 80 %. Never had a problem staying cool in our RV weather parked in full sun or shade. Just trader up to a 2019 Montana 3721RL which also has 2 A/C units.

[rhagfo]

One thing I have not seen mentioned is Slideout Covers. These keep the direct sun off the roof of the slideout and helps keep the rig cooler.

[firestation12]

Wiredgeorge...there are 2 types of portable air conditioners. One uses a single exhaust tube to eject the heated air created from the compressor, the second type a/c employs 2 tubes....one to exhaust the compressor's condenser coil and the other tube to bring in (make up air) air to replace the exhausted air. The air ejected by the single exhaust tube type a/c, is creating a negative pressure in your camper and thus exterior air with is temperature and humidity is being drawn into the camper through whatever means possible. This raw air from the outside, adds to the cooling load. The 2 tube type portable a/c overcomes this problem by bringing in a dedicated makeup air supply to cool the compressor's condenser coil. An example of a good 2 tube a/c is a Whynter ARC-14S (non heat pump) or ARC-14H (heat pump). I used one of the ventilation doors in the garage of my toy hauler to install the 2 vent hoses.

Just wanted to update information about another recent entry into the product line of supplemental air conditioning. This unit is made by Midea one of the largest manufacturers world wide of air conditioning products. This freestanding unit incorporates the 2 tubes into a single oval hose design that provides both inlet air and egress of heated exhaust air. The compressor is of the latest advance in compressor technology i.e. inverter brushless design. The 12,000 btu unit runs on a fraction of what a 15K rooftop unit would, and delivers 100% of it’s cool directly into a room rather than have it pass through a hot attic space. It is ideally suited to installing it in a toy hauler’s garage area or a dining slide out.

Midea Duo 12,000 BTU (10,000 BTU SACC) HE Inverter Ultra Quiet Portable Air Conditioner, Cools up to 450 Sq. Ft., Works with Alexa/Go...

https://a.co/d/bwqnbuu

[wiredgeorge]

As it turns out, I installed a Midea window unit earlier this year to avoid running our central air unit. It works great (10K BTU). I also have a mini-split in the main living room and can keep the house really cool without cranking on our central air which gets expensive running on triple digit days. The Midea window unit is virtually silent.

https://www.amazon.com/Midea-Inverter-Conditioner-Flexibility-Installation/dp/B0866Y33PL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=MIXXN80JOO4R&keywords=midea+u+shaped+window+air+conditioner&qid=1687146669&s=home-garden&sprefix=Midea%2Cgarden%2C455&sr=1-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

[firestation12]

That’s the good stuff, by George!

[JRTJH]

All of the "stand alone/free-standing air conditioners and heat pumps" we've owned have had issues with how to dispose of the collected condensation caused by the cooling process. One of ours, a Soleus free standing unit, claimed to use the condensation to "cool the unit and move the moisture out through the vent hose"... Worked well in the desert where there was limited hunidity, didn't work worth a hoot in Louisiana where there was high humidity and barely could keep up for 3 or 4 hours before the unit shut itself off when the drip pan was full....

For that reason, we wound up putting the A/C unit up on blocks of wood with a larger pan under it so we could extend the "time to shutoff" long enough so we could sleep through the night without it shutting off.

Does this new unit have a solution to how to dispose of the condensation effectively ???

[firestation12]

All of the "stand alone/free-standing air conditioners and heat pumps" we've owned have had issues with how to dispose of the collected condensation caused by the cooling process. One of ours, a Soleus free standing unit, claimed to use the condensation to "cool the unit and move the moisture out through the vent hose"... Worked well in the desert where there was limited hunidity, didn't work worth a hoot in Louisiana where there was high humidity and barely could keep up for 3 or 4 hours before the unit shut itself off when the drip pan was full....

For that reason, we wound up putting the A/C unit up on blocks of wood with a larger pan under it so we could extend the "time to shutoff" long enough so we could sleep through the night without it shutting off.

Does this new unit have a solution to how to dispose of the condensation effectively ???

I’ve not dissected one of these, but having owned them (but not in Louisiana), I believe the hot condenser air plays a significant part in evaporating the condensate into the airstream. The Whynter units operate for days, sometime weeks without need of draining them. Was the Soleus unit a single tube design? I ask that because if it was a single tube design, then it is pulling huge amounts of outside air into the interior, which then has to be dehumidified. 2 tube design units continuously reduce the interior moisture whereas single tube units add to the problem. I liked Carrier’s AirV RV roof unit, which deployed the condensate directly onto the condenser coil to evaporate it and boost cooling of the condensing coil. It was rare to see condensate on the roof. We are currently in a small town in south Texas. The temp this week without correction for humidity will be 113. Humidity is expected to be 40-64 depending on time of day, making the perceived temp 121. As long as we minimize entering and exiting, there has been very little condensate off the roof.

[wiredgeorge]

We bought a 14K btu portable about 3 years ago. Brand Ningpu. Here is part of the description:

SELF-EVAPORATION - Automatic self-evaporation technology - no bucket to empty (except in some high humidity area) - Built-in dehumidifier removes up to 50 pints/24 hours with continuous drain option for long unattended operation. Condensing water can Pump to Evaporator self to support energy and make high efficient .

It does have a bucket and facility for a hose; the bucket can not be removed... you must roll the unit a couple of feet to our steps and open the drain fitting. It seldom has needed draining and most of the time nothing collects. We do get a bit of humidity where we live. Weather Channel says it is currently 100F with 43% humidity and this is fairly normal for our summers here; perhaps a couple degrees warmer at time. The WC says it feels like it is 111F. All that said, I have found the auto-self evap feature works pretty well. The portable A/C is a necessary augment to the Dometic Brisk II on the roof in this part of Texas...

[JRTJH]

The Soleus heat pump we have only uses a single "cooling tube" to the window. Inside it is a divider, so I'm not sure if it's a "true dual cooling hose" or a "modified single hose" or a "hybrid dual/single or some other type of cooling hose"... All I can "verify" is that the owner's manual states it uses the condensate to cool the evaporator to improve remove of excess water and eliminate the need to empty the collection pan (except in high humidity conditions)... We couldn't use it in Louisiana because it filled up and the automatic shutoff would disable the heat pump after 3 or 4 hours of operation. In Michigan, in 80F temps and 90+ % humidity, it might run for 5 hours before the pan is full and the unit stops running.

My question was more along the lines of "Does this new Midea unit actually run for extended times in high humidity areas or does it have the same problem as other "free standing units" when it's 85F, raining outside and feels like you're walking on sponges with "wet feeling carpet" ???

Hopefully, they've found a solution that'll keep the unit running, the air "dehumidified" and the room cool... Our "state of the art Soleus" that's 3 years old doesn't accomplish that any better than our 20 year old "when they first came out" unit did.... Maybe technology has improved ??? Then again, on ours, it hadn't.....

[firestation12]

The Soleus heat pump we have only uses a single "cooling tube" to the window. Inside it is a divider, so I'm not sure if it's a "true dual cooling hose" or a "modified single hose" or a "hybrid dual/single or some other type of cooling hose"... All I can "verify" is that the owner's manual states it uses the condensate to cool the evaporator to improve remove of excess water and eliminate the need to empty the collection pan (except in high humidity conditions)... We couldn't use it in Louisiana because it filled up and the automatic shutoff would disable the heat pump after 3 or 4 hours of operation. In Michigan, in 80F temps and 90+ % humidity, it might run for 5 hours before the pan is full and the unit stops running.

My question was more along the lines of "Does this new Midea unit actually run for extended times in high humidity areas or does it have the same problem as other "free standing units" when it's 85F, raining outside and feels like you're walking on sponges with "wet feeling carpet" ???

Hopefully, they've found a solution that'll keep the unit running, the air "dehumidified" and the room cool... Our "state of the art Soleus" that's 3 years old doesn't accomplish that any better than our 20 year old "when they first came out" unit did.... Maybe technology has improved ??? Then again, on ours, it hadn't.....

Something isn’t right. Condensate should not be sent back to the evaporator coil where it just came from. Could it be the condenser coil is where the condensation is being routed to? As for the single tube you have, if it is approx 5” round, I’d guess it is not a dual inlet/outlet configuration. The Midea has an oval tube that clearly has a discernible second passage within the large single tube. As I said earlier, single exhaust only units invite more humidity in than they can remove. Another plus to the midea is the inverter drive compressor. It is quiet and very energy stingy. Inverter compressors can be operated variable outputs to achieve optimum dehumidification and output. To fully answer your question, yes, the longer I the Midea unit continuously operates the air gets drier and drier. An evaporator coil saturated with condensate insulates the metal fins of the coil, thus air passing through the coil does not absorb heat from the passing air. As the room air dries, the evaporator coil become more efficient at doing its job (because it is more dry). For example, a soggy evap coil may only cool the passing air 10-12 degrees, but as the build up of condensate reduces, the air temp may drop 17+ degrees per pass. A single hose freestanding unit will never achieve it’s optimum output nor stop producing condensate. Hope this makes sense.

[JRTJH]

I "mis-spoke" when I said the Soleus I have uses the condensate to cool the evaporator coils. I think it says something along the lines of using that condensate to cool the compressor and the condenser coils which evaporate the condensation for discharge through the vent system. I was speaking from memory and can't find the owner's manual right now to see exactly how it was worded....

Anyway, whatever it does to "evaporate and remove the excess moisture", the majority of it ends up in the bottom of the unit, in a pan that when full, causes the unit to shut down. So, it's pretty much not reliable to cool a bedroom or a garage workshop for very long before it stops working... When it works, it cools great, but when the pan is full, it stops working. That's why I sat it up on blocks with a gallon milk jug under it to get extended run times...

It sounds like the Midea unit has solved that issue or at least extended it enough that the unit will run longer than a few hours in humid weather. That's good to know for future reference if we start looking at another free standing unit. Thanks for the info.

[firestation12]

I "mis-spoke" when I said the Soleus I have uses the condensate to cool the evaporator coils. I think it says something along the lines of using that condensate to cool the compressor and the condenser coils which evaporate the condensation for discharge through the vent system. I was speaking from memory and can't find the owner's manual right now to see exactly how it was worded....

Anyway, whatever it does to "evaporate and remove the excess moisture", the majority of it ends up in the bottom of the unit, in a pan that when full, causes the unit to shut down. So, it's pretty much not reliable to cool a bedroom or a garage workshop for very long before it stops working... When it works, it cools great, but when the pan is full, it stops working. That's why I sat it up on blocks with a gallon milk jug under it to get extended run times...

It sounds like the Midea unit has solved that issue or at least extended it enough that the unit will run longer than a few hours in humid weather. That's good to know for future reference if we start looking at another free standing unit. Thanks for the info.

My advice to anyone running a single tube free standing ac unit is give it to someone you don’t like and upgrade sooner than later. That 300 to 400 cubic feet per minute that gets ejected outside, creates a negative pressure which draws 300-400 cfm ingress of outside humidified air from places like past the slide out seals, furnace vents in the belly that lead to the furnace intake, door and window seals etc., hence the constant non stop accumulation hour by hour in the freestanding a/c. Were that not so, the condensate being collected would begin to diminish as the air inside dries out. While the portable ac ejects cool air immediately in front of it, other parts of the camper served by the roof top units, are saddled with the job of handling the job of the ingress.