removing anode in Hot water tnk

[AUPANNER]

we have a 2017 Keystone Hideout 17' RV pull-behind camper - going to start winterizing it- how does one go about removing the anode in the hot water take? we have been told that it should be looked at at least once every couple of years.
I have attempted to remove it but it is solidly stuck and I don't want to use too much force for fear of breaking something.

Help?

[wiredgeorge]

I am familiar with the anode on a Suburban water heater. Your water heater will have some identification and it may be Dometic or Suburban. The Dometic, from what I have noted, has the anode placed awkawrdly and you should search for a very recent thread on the purchase of a water heater anode wrech which will allow access. If it is a Suburban, the anode rod is easily accessible. They are taped with teflon tape and then tightened in place. To remove, I use and impact socket (can't recall what size off the top of my head) and an 18" breaker bar. Metal on metal in an environment near water and some heat often causes the metals to gall and be a bit difficult to remove. Before attempting to remove, release all pressure in the tank after shutting off the water and putting your bypass valve in the shut position. Then take a small hammer and give the anode a few taps and this this will usually ease removal.

[chuckster57]

Should be 1 1/16” socket. I use a 1/2” drive socket with a wobble extension, since my ratchet handle extends I extend it fully, you can crank on these anode rods without harm. I prefer to use white plumbers putty on the threads.

[travelin texans]

we have a 2017 Keystone Hideout 17' RV pull-behind camper - going to start winterizing it- how does one go about removing the anode in the hot water take? we have been told that it should be looked at at least once every couple of years.
I have attempted to remove it but it is solidly stuck and I don't want to use too much force for fear of breaking something.

Help?

Depending on annual use of the RV & quality of water you're connected to I'd recommend checking the anode minimum of yearly when winterizing. They're not expensive & can be easily found, and Walmarts carry them, I've always carried a spare.

[GMcKenzie]

You might need to get some rust spray to see if that loosens it up.

I pull mine anytime the trailer isn't being used for a bit. I find the water goes off if it sits for more than a couple of weeks.

Otherwise I'm still on my first anode. Still has lots of life left. 9 years since I bought the trailer.

[flybouy]

You might need to get some rust spray to see if that loosens it up.

I pull mine anytime the trailer isn't being used for a bit. I find the water goes off if it sits for more than a couple of weeks.

Otherwise I'm still on my first anode. Still has lots of life left. 9 years since I bought the trailer.

9 years? Wow, you must have some "soft" water up there.

[GMcKenzie]

9 years? Wow, you must have some "soft" water up there.

Maybe it's because I rarely leave it full. And don't use the trailer as often as I like :(

[flybouy]

Maybe it's because I rarely leave it full. And don't use the trailer as often as I like :(

I'm definitely suffering from the non-use this year myself. We camp a lot in central PA and the water is "mineral rich" to the point of almost needing a water softener.

[BulletOwner1]

When I first bought my 2007 Cougar last year I went about checking the anode. First RV I've had that had one. It was very difficult to remove but did finally give up without damage. The anode itself looked like a piece of wire about the size of a coat hanger. Completely used up. Easy replacement and I used teflon tape. I've checked it twice since and removes easy. I don't think the first one had ever been checked.

[flybouy]

we have a 2017 Keystone Hideout 17' RV pull-behind camper - going to start winterizing it- how does one go about removing the anode in the hot water take? we have been told that it should be looked at at least once every couple of years.
I have attempted to remove it but it is solidly stuck and I don't want to use too much force for fear of breaking something.

Help?

It's common sense but I'll state the obvious here. Make sure the water heater is turned off and cooled down at least overnight. Open a hot water spigot to relieve the pressure or you could be looking down the barrel of a water cannon shooting a steel slug at your face. The gush of 5 - gal of water will get the bottom of the heater wet but it's OK, it's designed to drain it to the outside of the camper.

[bobbecky]

When I get ready to pull the anode and flush the tank, I turn off electric and gas to the water heater and then run hot water at a faucet until the water has cooled. Once cool, it is easy to pull the anode without getting scalded.

[CrazyCain]

On my 177LHS hideout, i pull the rod every time i am done camping. 4 years and still have >40% left. I use Teflon on the threads, it only cranks in like 4-5 threads, but nice and tight with no leaks. Never struggle to take it out, but putting it back in can be a pain.. :) :cool::lol::popcorn:

[Fishsizzle]

Should be 1 1/16” socket. I use a 1/2” drive socket with a wobble extension, since my ratchet handle extends I extend it fully, you can crank on these anode rods without harm. I prefer to use white plumbers putty on the threads.

^^^^^^^^^^^^
This

[skids]

I would try an impact drill-driver.

[chuckster57]

I would try an impact drill-driver.

Possibility of loosening screws that need to be tight, and not just the anode rod.

[rhagfo]

I would try an impact drill-driver.

Possibility of loosening screws that need to be tight, and not just the anode rod.

I would disagree on loosing other screws when using an impact driver to loosen and anode rod, I also would prefer an impact driver to a socket with a long leaver arm, you could twist the tank in the foam housing. An impact only applies twisting action to the item being loosed not the whole tank.

[flybouy]

I would disagree on loosing other screws when using an impact driver to loosen and anode rod, I also would prefer an impact driver to a socket with a long leaver arm, you could twist the tank in the foam housing. An impact only applies twisting action to the item being loosed not the whole tank.

an impact gun will apply torque to the socket and anything the socket is attached to. As long as the nut isn't moving it's applying torque to everything attached to the "nut". The difference is the impact gun will apply torque in quick, short succession at a specified torque. A standard levered wrench will apply an amount of torgue over duration limited only by the operators strength.
I think Chuck's referencing of loosening other screws comes from the "impact" part of using an impact gun. It will set up a quick shaking of everything attached, including your hand hold the impact gun or wrench. JMHO

[RickReichert]

With either impact gun or long socket bar, remember it is righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. :popcorn:

[Farside]

I drain the HW tank every time I get ready to leave the RV sitting for awhile. A couple years ago, I figured taking the anode out for the winter would be a good idea. You know, give the tank a chance to dry out. However, after draining the tank, and letting it sit for a few months, I came back to put the anode back in for the Springtime events. Guess what? Hard water in the tank had settled in the lower HW anode insert threads, and the calcium build-up took me hours to clean out with a wire brush before I could get the anode back in the tank. Now I just drain the tank, and put the anode back in after it's drained. Makes life a lot easier.

[flybouy]

I drain the HW tank every time I get ready to leave the RV sitting for awhile. A couple years ago, I figured taking the anode out for the winter would be a good idea. You know, give the tank a chance to dry out. However, after draining the tank, and letting it sit for a few months, I came back to put the anode back in for the Springtime events. Guess what? Hard water in the tank had settled in the lower HW anode insert threads, and the calcium build-up took me hours to clean out with a wire brush before I could get the anode back in the tank. Now I just drain the tank, and put the anode back in after it's drained. Makes life a lot easier.

Leaving the anode out can create a nice dark habitat for insects which are tasty meals for rodents and small reptiles. If you're going to leave the anode out I'd replace it with a plastic or brass pipe plug.

[wiredgeorge]

Leaving the anode out can create a nice dark habitat for insects which are tasty meals for rodents and small reptiles. If you're going to leave the anode out I'd replace it with a plastic or brass pipe plug.

If the purpose is to dry the tank out, replacing the anode with a plug sort of makes no sense. Fill the tank with dry gas and never get any hot water in your mouth! :hide:

[Todd727]

If the purpose is to dry the tank out, replacing the anode with a plug sort of makes no sense. Fill the tank with dry gas and never get any hot water in your mouth! :hide:

He means to put a plug or the anode back in AFTER it has dried out. If you don't, you run the risk of the threads getting rusty and it being extremely hard to put the anode back in.

If that happens, get a piece of black or galvanized pipe. I believe it is 3/4" pipe thread. That pipe is tapered thread, so you will get it started easier than the straight thread anode and the threads will get cleaned up. Works like a charm and takes 5 minutes. Use a pipe wrench if you have one.