Can someone tell me about my scale weight

[Big1]

The top one is with my 5th wheel hook up to my truck and the second one is of course without but I do have the hitch in the back. Thank you for your comments I would like to know where I'm at on the weight.

[busterbrown]

Weight of the truck unloaded subtracted from the total weight of the truck (with the trailer attached) will equal the pin weight. So, the drive and steer axles totaled (11,780) minus the unloaded truck weight (8,280) =3500 lbs of pin weight.

A few things you'll need to provide in order to determine a snap shot profile:

The truck's payload capacity (located on the drivers door jam placard); remember that the weight of the hitch will need to be considered too as it is deducted directly from the truck's payload.
GVWR, also on the that placard
GCVWR, based on powertrain configuration and rear differential size.
The axle ratings will usually be listed on the door jam as well.

After identifying these specs, the rest of the math is relatively simple in determining how well your trailer is loaded, balanced, and paired up to your TV (in a "ready to go camping" state).

[Big1]

Okay the payload of my TV is 3800 lbs, my GVWR of my truck is 11,700 lbs but now when I went to weight my TV I was in the TV and my B&W non-slider hitch were in the bed also. Should I have weight it without the hitch? I had about a half of tank of fuel also and when we came back from camping we took everything out of the TV so that wasn't weight.


So I guess that I'm asking how or what do I have to have or what should I have to do to weight my TV unloaded? Thank you so much for your comment.


Our 5th wheel GVWR is 12,700 lbs and my hitch weight unloaded is 2045 but not the hitch weight is the unloaded so the real hitch weight of 12,700 lbs is going to be 2,540 lbs. I think that I need to dial in my unloaded weight of my TV to get the true payload weight.


My GCVWR is 25,300 lbs.

[Big1]

I'm sure that I will have to go back again and weight my TV without the hitch.

[Wxman]

I don't think that is necessary yet. Your truck GVWR is 11700. When you weighed with trailer you had FR 5140 and RR 6640. That is 11780 carried by the TV which puts it over your reported GVWR irregardless of payload capacity. Usually payload capacity is just GVWR minus empty weight.

Also you had a Gross combined weight of 21460 when weighed with the trailer and a truck weight of 8280 without the trailer, I put that at meaning your trailer weight is 13180, which puts you over your reported 12700 trailer GVWR.

Your truck axles were 11780 hooked up and 8280 unhooked. The difference is 3500 which is the amount of pin weight on the truck, about 26.5%.

At any rate, using your reported GVWR numbers I think you are overloaded both TV and 5'r as you weighed it.

[travelin texans]

Subtract the 2 drive axle weights, 6640-3440=3200 lbs pin weight.
25300 GCVWR-21460 scaled weight=remaining carrying weight provided you don't exceed payload.
Truck payload (from tag?) 3800-3200 scaled weight=600 lbs payload remaining.
If you want true #'s weigh both as it will used, load people, pets, fuel, hitch, water in fresh tank or whatever you'll need to travel.

[busterbrown]

You're about 80 lbs over on the truck's GVWR. If your scale visit wasn't truly representative of your 'ready to go' camping weights, then you maybe over by a larger margin. When weighing, remember to have all passengers, cargo, and fuel loaded. Otherwise the numbers are a guessing game.

The pin weight can only be accurately calculated if the truck (uncoupled from the trailer) was weighed exactly how it was when hitch. This leaves no room for error or speculation.

The easiest and most reliable way to determine how much cargo carrying capacity of the truck that is used (in other words, payload available after people and cargo are added) is to get that accurate unhitched gross truck weight (add the axles) then subtract that amount from the GVWR of 11,700. This will provide you with payload remaining.

Curb weights or dry weights have real no bearing in the equation as they are only achieved at the factory. This can be applied to both the TV and trailer. Just adding a 5th wheel hitch makes the truck's "curb" weight irrelevant. Likewise, just adding propane and batteries to the coach during the new prep servicing process will alter those 'dry' numbers significantly.

You're also nearly 4,000 lbs under the gross combined weight which is usually not a problem with trailers your size. It's the payload on those single rear axle 1 ton trucks that's the limiting factor. That is why is the seasoned RVers suggest deciding on the trailer before deciding on a truck. Because many folks don't realize how easily the capacities can be exceeded once hitched. A dually configuaration adds so much more payload capacity that it is the preferred choice over a single axle. Just as a comparision, my 2500 RAm has nearly 3000 lbs of payload from the factory. 800 lbs isn't much more for a 3500 series truck.

Also, do you have the axle ratings of your RAM?

[Big1]

Subtract the 2 drive axle weights, 6640-3440=3200 lbs pin weight.
25300 GCVWR-21460 scaled weight=remaining carrying weight provided you don't exceed payload.
Truck payload (from tag?) 3800-3200 scaled weight=600 lbs payload remaining.
If you want true #'s weigh both as it will used, load people, pets, fuel, hitch, water in fresh tank or whatever you'll need to travel.


Okay, the first weight was after my wife and I went camping for two weeks, there were happen to be a weight scale about less than a mile from where we were camping so the top weight was everything.

[Big1]

You're about 80 lbs over on the truck's GVWR. If your scale visit wasn't truly representative of your 'ready to go' camping weights, then you maybe over by a larger margin. When weighing, remember to have all passengers, cargo, and fuel loaded. Otherwise the numbers are a guessing game.

The pin weight can only be accurately calculated if the truck (uncoupled from the trailer) was weighed exactly how it was when hitch. This leaves no room for error or speculation.

The easiest and most reliable way to determine how much cargo carrying capacity of the truck that is used (in other words, payload available after people and cargo are added) is to get that accurate unhitched gross truck weight (add the axles) then subtract that amount from the GVWR of 11,700. This will provide you with payload remaining.

Curb weights or dry weights have real no bearing in the equation as they are only achieved at the factory. This can be applied to both the TV and trailer. Just adding a 5th wheel hitch makes the truck's "curb" weight irrelevant. Likewise, just adding propane and batteries to the coach during the new prep servicing process will alter those 'dry' numbers significantly.

You're also nearly 4,000 lbs under the gross combined weight which is usually not a problem with trailers your size. It's the payload on those single rear axle 1 ton trucks that's the limiting factor. That is why is the seasoned RVers suggest deciding on the trailer before deciding on a truck. Because many folks don't realize how easily the capacities can be exceeded once hitched. A dually configuaration adds so much more payload capacity that it is the preferred choice over a single axle. Just as a comparision, my 2500 RAm has nearly 3000 lbs of payload from the factory. 800 lbs isn't much more for a 3500 series truck.

Also, do you have the axle ratings of your RAM?


GAWR- Front- 6000 lbs
GAWR- REAR- 7000 lbs


So for what you guys are saying and looking at the numbers I'm I good? Thank you guys so much for all of your comments and to think that I was towing my 5th wheel with a 2017 2500 ctd.


Okay you are say that I need to go back with just my TV load up all of the stuff and people and full tank of fuel and weight it then? Okay I see your first paragraph.

[busterbrown]

GAWR- Front- 6000 lbs
GAWR- REAR- 7000 lbs


So for what you guys are saying and looking at the numbers I'm I good? Thank you guys so much for all of your comments and to think that I was towing my 5th wheel with a 2017 2500 ctd.


Okay you are say that I need to go back with just my TV load up all of the stuff and people and full tank of fuel and weight it then? Okay I see your first paragraph.

I don't think anyone is saying you're "good". From the scale weights, you're over on both the truck and trailer's GVWR. Most likely, you're truck's payload capacity is tapped out (or over) when loaded up.

These are specifications set by the respective manufacturers (and their engineering teams) in order to ensure a safe towing experience. When a person exceeds these limits, they have gone rogue and are assuming the risk of doing so. In the event of an unfortunate circumstance, the weights will be interrogated to determine fault. From my understandung, it's not in anyone's best interest to be on the receiving end of such a judgment or determination.

[5J's]

I don't believe anyone said you're "good" but quite the contrary.

[Roscommon48]

sometimes we get too caught up in the 'numbers'.



keep it simple... you are fine. enjoy your travels.

[flybouy]

Okay the payload of my TV is 3800 lbs, my GVWR of my truck is 11,700 lbs but now when I went to weight my TV I was in the TV and my B&W non-slider hitch were in the bed also. Should I have weight it without the hitch? I had about a half of tank of fuel also and when we came back from camping we took everything out of the TV so that wasn't weight.


So I guess that I'm asking how or what do I have to have or what should I have to do to weight my TV unloaded? Thank you so much for your comment.


Our 5th wheel GVWR is 12,700 lbs and my hitch weight unloaded is 2045 but not the hitch weight is the unloaded so the real hitch weight of 12,700 lbs is going to be 2,540 lbs. I think that I need to dial in my unloaded weight of my TV to get the true payload weight.


My GCVWR is 25,300 lbs.

The red highlight above negates the validity of the weight. Revisit the scale while on your way to camping. Full fuel, everything on board including food, drink, water, clothing, people and animals. Anything less is guessing.

[travelin texans]

sometimes we get too caught up in the 'numbers'.



keep it simple... you are fine. enjoy your travels.

Unfortunately with the help of RV salesman that don't have a clue too many don't "get caught up in the numbers" enough only to find out they don't have enough tv for RV they have already purchased when the salesman said "you're fine, go enjoy!".
The OP should get an attaboy for attempting to do it safely!

[Laredo Tugger]

Unfortunately with the help of RV salesman that don't have a clue too many don't "get caught up in the numbers" enough only to find out they don't have enough tv for RV they have already purchased when the salesman said "you're fine, go enjoy!".
The OP should get an attaboy for attempting to do it safely!

Exactly what I got from the dealer when I purchased my 5er with a gas F-250. First trip to a campground I drove by mostly diesels that were pulling fifth wheels. Didn't take me long to figure out that my TV was inadequate. It ( the F-250) pulled the trailer but it didn't like it.

I have the same TV as the OP. Below are my numbers. I THINK I have the math correct. If not let me know.

TRUCK (full oF fuel and all equipment/cargo & passengers,some groceries ect...)
2018 RAM 3500 4x4 CC SB SRW 3.42
Aisin Trans HO 6.7L CTD/ 5K Air Lift bags
16K Curt Slider Hitch / Door Sticker payload:3822

GVWR: 11700 Max
GAWR: Front 6000 Max Rear 7000 Max
GVWR: 25300 Max
Max Trailer: 17050 Max

TRAILER
2017 Keystone Laredo 350 FB (All tanks dry,full propane tanks,tools, equipment,clothes,some groceries ect...)
Dry Weight: 11230
Cargo Capacity: 1770 Max
GVWR: 13000 Max
Hitch: 2085

SCALE WEIGHTS
TV: (No trailer) Front 5100
Rear 3960= 9060

TV and 5er: Front: 5200
Rear: 6220= 11420
Subtract TV (No trailer) : 9060=2360-Pin Weight

Trailer Axel: 10020
Add Pin: 2360=12380 5er GCWR

GCWR 12380 – 11230 (Dry Trailer) = 1150 Cargo

GCWR: (Connected) Truck 11420 + 10020= 21440

[Laredo Tugger]

OK I'm good.
Doesn't matter. Not getting a new TV to satisfy some cop from the weight police. Deal is done.
Thanks
RMc

[Big1]

Yep, I agree I don't want a 1 ton dually so it is what it is.

[busterbrown]

Yep, I agree I don't want a 1 ton dually so it is what it is.

I'm a little dumbfounded.?.? Requesting feedback on scale weights with a preconceived attitude to "do nothing" anyways?

[wiredgeorge]

The horse is dead? To keep on beating it seems like more effort than worth it. Here is what happens if you are overloaded and get into some sort of accident... Fran drives up in her Progressive-mobile with two big uglies getting out of the back seat. They have CIA vests on and she points her NAME YOUR PRICE TOOL at your wreck. The name your price tool doubles as a secret overloaded spy tool. Fran reads the results and if you exceeded some magical weight number, the two gorillas she brought with you haul off your wife and kids and pets and you are faced with life in an endless cycle of being overloaded threads!

[notanlines]

My mind's made up! Don't confuse me with the facts! I'm guessing OP came up with the original post so he could get stroked and petted. No one gets stroked and petted when they have fleas.....:facepalm: (Yes, that was terrible)

[chuckster57]

The horse is dead? To keep on beating it seems like more effort than worth it. Here is what happens if you are overloaded and get into some sort of accident... Fran drives up in her Progressive-mobile with two big uglies getting out of the back seat. They have CIA vests on and she points her NAME YOUR PRICE TOOL at your wreck. The name your price tool doubles as a secret overloaded spy tool. Fran reads the results and if you exceeded some magical weight number, the two gorillas she brought with you haul off your wife and kids and pets and you are faced with life in an endless cycle of being overloaded threads!



Good one!! Thanks for the morning chuckle.

[vampress_me]

Yep, I agree I don't want a 1 ton dually so it is what it is.

Then why did you bother even posting the first post?!?!

I *love* how many people just like to “hear themselves talk”, or in this case “see their name/words in print”, but don’t understand the fine art of listening (reading) and learning.

[travelin texans]

In your case then, as someone has already posted
"YOU'RE FINE, GO ENJOY!"…......& Good Luck!

[rhagfo]

The top one is with my 5th wheel hook up to my truck and the second one is of course without but I do have the hitch in the back. Thank you for your comments I would like to know where I'm at on the weight.

I'm sure that I will have to go back again and weight my TV without the hitch.

Well the hitch needs to be in the truck as it is part of the TV's weight, you are not going to tow without it.

The other thing, truck and trailer should be weighed ready to camp truck should be full of fuel and all items in it that would be on a trip.
Once the Truck and trailer are weighed, find a place to drop the 5er and go directly back and weigh just the truck.

Now you will have real numbers to work with. It appears to me that you weighed the combo and truck alone at different times.

Your real remaining payload (usable for pin weight) is scaled weight of TV subtracted from the TV's listed GVWR.

The trailers pin weight is the total weight on the TV's axles (front and rear) loaded, less the total weight on the TV axles without the 5er attached.

[sonofcy]

Without visiting the forum he was just guilty of negligence, but now that several members have shown him how he is overweight if he now has an accident he is criminally negligent.

[infoshot]

Bingo!
If the OP gets into an accident then being overweight can make him liable. They put those stickers on so the manufacturer is not.

The weight police are real.

I praise him for wanting the right thing.

[TYHLR]

The OPs gross weight is more that I have with my dually pulling the camper. I would not attempt to drive his rig.

Since he does not seem to care that the truck is overloaded, I guess there is no reason to expect that the tires on the TV are rated to carry that load either.

Just another data point.

[Big1]

Thank you guys for your comments.

[jimborokz]

At the risk of opening a whole new can of worms...but just curious.
I understand the comparison of scale weights to door sticker and all, but I'm just wondering. The scale weight is a static measure, but when I'm on the road bouncing around my weight is very dynamic. Designs take this into consideration. Does anyone know what RV manufacturers and truck makers use. In materials and stress classes I took years ago we used a factor of 10X for dynamic loads. Any of our Engineers have some insight into this?

[CWtheMan]

Starting on page 48 in the reference below you will find all the information nacessary to get an accurate reading from some scales. Just use the info applicable to your RV.

https://www.ustires.org/sites/default/files/CareAndService_PassengerAndLightTruckTires.pdf

[CWtheMan]

Starting on page 48 in the reference below you will find all the information nacessary to get an accurate reading from some scales. Just use the info applicable o your RV.

https://www.ustires.org/sites/default/files/CareAndService_PassengerAndLightTruckTires.pdf

[Dan Lockwood]

Starting on page 48 in the reference below you will find all the information nacessary to get an accurate reading from some scales. Just use the info applicable o your RV.

https://www.ustires.org/sites/default/files/CareAndService_PassengerAndLightTruckTires.pdf

CW, I downloaded that PDF and have saved it in my RV Dropbox folder for quick reference from the road.

I will say that I've not done too much weighing before, just my truck with wood trash at the recycle center and a streetrod years ago at a grainery.

But reading this for what I have, at dually with a triple axle TH, I could see spending a LOT of time at the scales. And I've never seen scales, granted I've not looked very hard, that have the side clearance to pull up with more than half your rig off to one side. Is the side to side all that important?

In my case the RV engineers designed the with storage in locations that cannot be retally changed. There is the overhead twin bunk and the main storage tunnel up front, but as long as I maintain my garage load equally from side to side, how much "real" influence do you have for side to side loading?

Where would one find this type of scale? Pilot or some similar truck stop on the freeway? Most gravel pit type places don't even have side ground, just a scale similar to a bridge.

Any pointers on where and how long this may take would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks and have a great weekend.

[JRTJH]

ALL of the CAT Scales that I've seen are designed and constructed to prevent "side to side weights". There is a reinforced barrier at one end of the scales to prevent driving on the platforms in any position except being centered on the pads.

The following is a quote from the CAT Scale website: " Our scales can give you axle weights and a total gross weight, however, they cannot weigh each corner of the vehicle. We cannot provide individual wheel weights and, to prevent damage to your vehicle as well as our scales, do not allow that type of weighing."

The only "effective" way (that I know of) to weigh each wheel position is with individual scales. I don't know of any commercial scale or government "roadway weigh station scale" that has the capability to weigh each wheel individually.

[Dan Lockwood]

Thanks John.

If I use one of these, will I have to pay for three or four weighin's, or will it let me get multiple readings under one pay?

I'm assuming these scales will cost to use, correct?

Thanks again!

[JRTJH]

At all the CAT Scale facilities that I've used, there is a "one fee for one weigh" price (usually $12) and each additional "re-weigh" for the next 24 hours is $2.50. So, to weigh your complete vehicle, pull off the scale, then return to weigh your truck separately would cost $12 + 2.50 = $14.50 if you do it at the same scale on the same day. The CAT Scale FAQ is located here: https://catscale.com/contact-us/faq/ From that link you can access the entire CAT Scale website. One important part is the "how to weigh my vehicle" instruction page: https://catscale.com/how-to-weigh/ scroll down to the "Truck and Fifth Wheel" section and it's pretty simple to understand the instructions.

[SummitPond]

<clip>
The only "effective" way (that I know of) to weigh each wheel position is with individual scales. I don't know of any commercial scale or government "roadway weigh station scale" that has the capability to weigh each wheel individually.

<clip>
Where would one find this type of scale?
<clip>


I know Escapees (https://www.escapees.com/education/smartweigh/) offers a wheel-by-wheel weigh as does RV Safety (https://www.rvsafety.com/schedule).

Escapees has fixed locations whereas RV Safety travels around. I recall reading about some other organization (can't find the link at the moment) where they'll come to you. Hopefully you're better at web searches than I.

Edit: I've only used the CAT scale approach as the other two mentioned are not reasonably convenient to my travels.

[Tireman9]

The top one is with my 5th wheel hook up to my truck and the second one is of course without but I do have the hitch in the back. Thank you for your comments I would like to know where I'm at on the weight.


If you are weighing to learn about tire inflation and max loading you need to get the truck & trailer "fully loaded" you ever expect to be. (food, fuel, clothes, tools people books, etc)


Ideally, you would learn the load on each tire position. For the truck, it is reasonable to assume near 50/50 side to side load split.
BUT
for the trailer, you need to assume 53/47 split between the axles (unless you get each axle individual weight.
You also need to assume a 53/47 end to end load split on each axle as almost no RV has perfect load split.


Using the heaviest loaded tire you should have a MINIMUM of 10% load capacity margin with the trailer tires fully inflated. Also, you inflate all the trailer tires to the tire sidewall infl to get the lowest Interply Shear possible.

[Ken / Claudia]

Jim in post #29 brings up a point I have mentioned before and its more than many care to learn or understand. I sat through way to many crash testing videos and forgot most of the high tech stuff. But, I remember some of it, all vehicles including the towed type are going though all types of movement as they travel down the road. These are named Yaw, Roll and Pitch. Anything you do, turning the steering wheel, starting, stopping all create some of that. If you watch a patrol vehicle doing high speed turns with the camera inches from the tire, we would think any moment the tire will blow up.
I do not have any answer to the question, "how much more stress does a normal tire go though" while its doing its job, but panic stops, hard turns, big bumps place lots of more stress than when it is just rolling along.. How about RV tires being pushed and pulled sideways during a turn, not steered? How much more weight does a RV tire carry while at high speed and it goes over a large bump, going high less wt, coming down more weight.
Some of those things that happen to all RV tires is a good reason to get the best and heaviest load carrying tire it can handle in my mind.

[Big1]

After hearing all of the comments something to me don’t seem right so I will go and get it all weighed again just to make sure. Thank you for all of the comments.

[sonofcy]

After hearing all of the comments something to me don’t seem right so I will go and get it all weighed again just to make sure. Thank you for all of the comments.
I hope you update us because the weights you originally posted show your truck GVW is 11,780 which is over your sticker GVWR and is illegal and dangerous. Your trailer is 13,180 and your pin weight is 3,200 or 24.3%. The 24.3% is a good percentage, but I will be surprised if a single axle truck can handle a payload of 3,200. Check the yellow sticker on the driver side door post, usually yellow. You may be in dually territory.

[Laredo Tugger]

I hope you update us because the weights you originally posted show your truck GVW is 11,780 which is over your sticker GVWR and is illegal and dangerous. Your trailer is 13,180 and your pin weight is 3,200 or 24.3%. The 24.3% is a good percentage, but I will be surprised if a single axle truck can handle a payload of 3,200. Check the yellow sticker on the driver side door post, usually yellow. You may be in dually territory.

I am still trying to figure how a 32 ft. fifth wheel could have a pin weight of 3200 lbs. That seems heavy for that size trailer. I could be wrong.
I think the math might have got sidetracked on that calculation.
RMc

[sonofcy]

I am still trying to figure how a 32 ft. fifth wheel could have a pin weight of 3200 lbs. That seems heavy for that size trailer. I could be wrong.
I think the math might have got sidetracked on that calculation.
RMc
Normal range is 15 to 25 so he is within normal range.

[Laredo Tugger]

The specifications for the OPs trailer show a hitch weight of 2065.
How he got it to 3200 lbs. is the question. A difference of 1135 lbs?
Must be where he stores the gold bars I guess. Or the math needs to be reworked.
RMc

[sonofcy]

The specifications for the OPs trailer show a hitch weight of 2065.
How he got it to 3200 lbs. is the question. A difference of 1135 lbs?
Must be where he stores the gold bars I guess. Or the math needs to be reworked.
RMc
2065 is the phoney baloney number the vendor puts out there, 3,200 or 3,500 as another fellow calculated (I am not sure which is correct) is the actual weight from the scale tickets. No matter how you slice it, he is overloaded, too little truck and likely too few wheels to carry the weight.

[rhagfo]

I am still trying to figure how a 32 ft. fifth wheel could have a pin weight of 3200 lbs. That seems heavy for that size trailer. I could be wrong.
I think the math might have got sidetracked on that calculation.
RMc

We have a 32' 5er and a 2,700# pin with a small basement, if the OP has a larger basement I could easily see 3,500# is within reason.

I hope you update us because the weights you originally posted show your truck GVW is 11,780 which is over your sticker GVWR and is illegal and dangerous. Your trailer is 13,180 and your pin weight is 3,200 or 24.3%. The 24.3% is a good percentage, but I will be surprised if a single axle truck can handle a payload of 3,200. Check the yellow sticker on the driver side door post, usually yellow. You may be in dually territory.


2065 is the phoney baloney number the vendor puts out there, 3,200 or 3,500 as another fellow calculated (I am not sure which is correct) is the actual weight from the scale tickets. No matter how you slice it, he is overloaded, too little truck and likely too few wheels to carry the weight.

You my friend deserve the "Master Weight Police award"
The OP's weight ticket showed a total TV weight of 11,780#, which places him a whole 80# over GVWR, the wheels are NOT going to fall off his TV, and not an unsafe condition.

The OP's weight on his rear axle is 6,640# on and axle system rated for 7,000# so 340# of spare capacity. The OP's 2018 Ram 3500 SRW is more than enough TV for a 13,180# 5er.

The OP could possibly move have some heavy items from the bed of the TV into the 5er (if he has those), if he moved about 120# from TV to 5er, his pin would increase by a percentage of the weight moved, and could come in under GVWR, and still be within axle rating.

I was 1,700# over GVWR with our old 2001 Ram 2500, but still within axle and tire ratings. I will say towed and handled great, had a couple of panic stops and it stopped well. Now no issues with the new 2016.

Don't get me wrong I would like to see all within GVWR, but the important numbers are axle and TIRE.

[sonofcy]

We have a 32' 5er and a 2,700# pin with a small basement, if the OP has a larger basement I could easily see 3,500# is within reason.






You my friend deserve the "Master Weight Police award"
The OP's weight ticket showed a total TV weight of 11,780#, which places him a whole 80# over GVWR, the wheels are NOT going to fall off his TV, and not an unsafe condition.

The OP's weight on his rear axle is 6,640# on and axle system rated for 7,000# so 340# of spare capacity. The OP's 2018 Ram 3500 SRW is more than enough TV for a 13,180# 5er.

The OP could possibly move have some heavy items from the bed of the TV into the 5er (if he has those), if he moved about 120# from TV to 5er, his pin would increase by a percentage of the weight moved, and could come in under GVWR, and still be within axle rating.

I was 1,700# over GVWR with our old 2001 Ram 2500, but still within axle and tire ratings. I will say towed and handled great, had a couple of panic stops and it stopped well. Now no issues with the new 2016.

Don't get me wrong I would like to see all within GVWR, but the important numbers are axle and TIRE.
The axle might be ok, but what about his tires? Posting a picture of his yellow sticker would help.

[rhagfo]

The axle might be ok, but what about his tires? Posting a picture of his yellow sticker would help.

The vehicle axle rating is based on the weakest component, be it the axle, springs, brakes or tires. It seems to me that the OEM tires are rated at about 3,600# ea.
Sonofcy, I strongly suggest you do some research on GVWR and axle and tire ratings.

Once the TV is off the lot the yellow sticker is basically out dated. He is currently 80# over GVWR. The Payload number on the yellow sticker is the difference of the vehicle GVWR less curb weight as it left the factory and an allowance for a driver and some fuel.

[Tireman9]

NOTE: RVIA has a 10% Reserve Load capacity on the tires above the GAWR as found on the certification label.
GAWR would cover all the components except the tires.

[wiredgeorge]

We have a 32' 5er and a 2,700# pin with a small basement, if the OP has a larger basement I could easily see 3,500# is within reason.

What the heck do you people stash in your pass through storage? 800 lbs? That is a lot of tools and lawn chairs.

[rhagfo]

NOTE: RVIA has a 10% Reserve Load capacity on the tires above the GAWR as found on the certification label.
GAWR would cover all the components except the tires.

Sorry to disagree, but the OEM tire size on both the VIN sticker and Yellow Payload sticker are rated high enough to cover the listed GAWR.
I don't believe that tire shops are allowed to put a lower rated tire on a vehicle. That and the OP's 2018 Ram 3500 SRW is likely still on the OEM tires.

My 2001 Ram had a rear GAWR of 6,084# which was exactly what the two OEM tires ratings added up to. I had the optional tires that increased the tire capacity about 600#.

[tech740]

I hope you update us because the weights you originally posted show your truck GVW is 11,780 which is over your sticker GVWR and is illegal and dangerous. Your trailer is 13,180 and your pin weight is 3,200 or 24.3%. The 24.3% is a good percentage, but I will be surprised if a single axle truck can handle a payload of 3,200. Check the yellow sticker on the driver side door post, usually yellow. You may be in dually territory.

My SRW yellow sticker is 3810. I am 24K overall and the trailer is 15K. I am perfectly comfortable with this on a SRW so I am pretty sure as long as the OP is comfortable puling trailers, he wont run into issues because he is 80# over a sticker value.