Melted 30A plug

[TG10894]

Power plug on my power cable melted last week. It had some arcing scars from the previous owner so I knew it was not in great shape even though I cleaned it up. To that end, I had a bought spare plug that I used to replace the existing 30A plug and all was well....until I tried to put it back into it's hole in the camper wall when we were packing up. The replacement plug is much bulkier and does not fit in the storage hole such that the door will close. Duct tape worked for the short term.

Question - Unless I can find a smaller profile plug, it looks like replacing the entire cable is my best option. Has anyone replaced a plug that fit well in the storage pocket, and does anyone have a suggestion for replacement cable and plug?

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[rhagfo]

Post a picture of old and new so we can better understand?

[dwall]

I had the same problem. The first plug I bought from HD was too large. I found one from a local True Value Hardware that was smaller and it worked fine. I keep the larger one for an emergency fix.

[itat]

I always use Marinco Park Power products for replacement plugs. They are UL and CSA certified.

If you have the mouse hole for your power cord, consider moving to this power inlet if it will completely fill the mouse hole opening in the wall of your trailer.

https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-301ELRV-Power-Inlet-Stainless/dp/B000E3V9R6/ref=lp_7717993011_1_4?srs=7717993011&ie=UTF8&qid=1569194751&sr=8-4

With the replacement power inlet, you’ll need the locking female connector:

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Power-305CRV-Female-Connector/dp/B000E3ZRLK/ref=lp_7717993011_1_9?srs=7717993011&ie=UTF8&qid=1569194751&sr=8-9

and the weatherproof locking cover:

https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-103RV-Weatherproof-Cover/dp/B00A1D4Q06/ref=rtpb_1/136-6523100-2212040?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00A1D4Q06&pd_rd_r=d05107d0-16a5-4682-9543-d603c1abd8b5&pd_rd_w=9kMpb&pd_rd_wg=LIEe1&pf_rd_p=0f25a887-14c7-4cdf-bb16-8f0a79d18565&pf_rd_r=F07FBECKFEC2M1XRM3WZ&psc=1&refRID=F07FBECKFEC2M1XRM3WZ

[Snoking]

I always use Marinco Park Power products for replacement plugs. They are UL and CSA certified.

If you have the mouse hole for your power cord, consider moving to this power inlet if it will completely fill the mouse hole opening in the wall of your trailer.

https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-301ELRV-Power-Inlet-Stainless/dp/B000E3V9R6/ref=lp_7717993011_1_4?srs=7717993011&ie=UTF8&qid=1569194751&sr=8-4

With the replacement power inlet, you’ll need the locking female connector:

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Power-305CRV-Female-Connector/dp/B000E3ZRLK/ref=lp_7717993011_1_9?srs=7717993011&ie=UTF8&qid=1569194751&sr=8-9

and the weatherproof locking cover:

https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-103RV-Weatherproof-Cover/dp/B00A1D4Q06/ref=rtpb_1/136-6523100-2212040?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00A1D4Q06&pd_rd_r=d05107d0-16a5-4682-9543-d603c1abd8b5&pd_rd_w=9kMpb&pd_rd_wg=LIEe1&pf_rd_p=0f25a887-14c7-4cdf-bb16-8f0a79d18565&pf_rd_r=F07FBECKFEC2M1XRM3WZ&psc=1&refRID=F07FBECKFEC2M1XRM3WZ

Actual you are looking at the wrong end of the OP 30 shore cable. His problem was a worn out outlet at the pedestal, causing his male plug to over heat.

The plugs you note in your link have their origin in a 1930's hospital power outlet/plug, which is not the best available today.

The smart plug system is much better.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/smartplug--combo-inlet-connector-30a-125v-white--17415258?mrkgcl=481&mrkgadid=3202694706&cm_mmc=PS-_-Google-_-GSC%3ENonB%3EProduct%2520Type-_-17415258&product_id=17415258&creative=108421552324&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInZfRoNzl5AIVEb3sCh1DgwwxEAQYBSAB EgKlWfD_BwE

If the pedestal outlet looks heat damaged, DO NOT plug into to it. Ask the park to move you or install a new outlet.

[Logan X]

I replaced my “mouse hole” setup with a Marinco 30 amp park power conversion kit. I’ve had it for about a year and I’m happy with it. It makes the shore power cord detachable and gets rid of the opening on your trailer.

It uses your existing cord but you would no longer have the problem of the plug being too big because the cord detaches

https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-Marinco-30ARVKIT-125V-Conversion/dp/B000NUYZQC

[itat]

I replaced my “mouse hole” setup with a Marinco 30 amp park power conversion kit. I’ve had it for about a year and I’m happy with it. It makes the shore power cord detachable and gets rid of the opening on your trailer.

It uses your existing cord but you would no longer have the problem of the plug being too big because the cord detaches

https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-Marinco-30ARVKIT-125V-Conversion/dp/B000NUYZQC

Thanks for this post. That’s what I should have linked to rather than individual parts.

The kit is less than half the price of the SmartPlug and not a thing wrong with it.

[Snoking]

Thanks for this post. That’s what I should have linked to rather than individual parts.

The kit is less than half the price of the SmartPlug and not a thing wrong with it.
http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23813&thumb=1&d=1569191135

What's that have to do with the male end of the cable that melted down?

A significant percentage of boat fires in marinas start at the shore cable connection of the side of the boat, which is equipment you linked. I was involved with a 330 slip marina for 12 years as a meeting of the communities Harbor Committee. That Hubble design plug has little bumps on the contracts that are the main contact point.

Again the OP's problem was a worn/burnt out outlet on the pedestal.

[Logan X]

http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23813&thumb=1&d=1569191135

What's that have to do with the male end of the cable that melted down?

A significant percentage of boat fires in marinas start at the shore cable connection of the side of the boat, which is equipment you linked. I was involved with a 330 slip marina for 12 years as a meeting of the communities Harbor Committee. That Hubble design plug has little bumps on the contracts that are the main contact point.

Again the OP's problem was a worn/burnt out outlet on the pedestal.

Actually, the OP asked about how to fit his aftermarket plug into the mouse hole or new cord solutions. The marinco kit I linked to makes the cord detachable so the OP would no longer have the problem of fitting the end of the cord in the mouse hole. It’s just a suggestion to take or leave.

[flybouy]

Actual you are looking at the wrong end of the OP 30 shore cable. His problem was a worn out outlet at the pedestal, causing his male plug to over heat.

The plugs you note in your link have their origin in a 1930's hospital power outlet/plug, which is not the best available today.

The smart plug system is much better.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/smartplug--combo-inlet-connector-30a-125v-white--17415258?mrkgcl=481&mrkgadid=3202694706&cm_mmc=PS-_-Google-_-GSC%3ENonB%3EProduct%2520Type-_-17415258&product_id=17415258&creative=108421552324&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInZfRoNzl5AIVEb3sCh1DgwwxEAQYBSAB EgKlWfD_BwE

If the pedestal outlet looks heat damaged, DO NOT plug into to it. Ask the park to move you or install a new outlet.

The OP stated the previous owner had problems that discolored the plug. Could have been the previous owner overloaded it, could be the previous owner constantly plugged/unplugged the power cable in without first turning the breaker off. Could be the molded plug was defective. Could be the power pedestal outlet was defective. How can we tell? I doubt he's at the same pedestal unless he bought it in a permanent site and stayed there. His question was regarding the replacement plug not fitting the mouse hole.

Every camper I've owned had the mouse hole storage and I converted them over with the marinco twist lock kit. I did this for several reasons.
1. fear the mouse hole would let water in during hard windblown rain and dragging water in if you don't wipe don the cable before putting back in.
2. to close up another inlet for mice, ants, and other critters to enter the unit.
3. to facilitate installing an on board EMS simpler .
4. Always hated the idea of yanking on a cord that is tied into a connection that I can't see.
5. Freed up that space in the cabinet, currently where my EMS and built in vacuum cleaner live.
There are several choices out there and if you just want to replace the plug with one that fits then they are available without the "pull handle" that typically get in the way of allowing it to fit inside the mouse hole. YMMV
5. freed up that

[Snoking]

Actually, the OP asked about how to fit his aftermarket plug into the mouse hole or new cord solutions. The marinco kit I linked to makes the cord detachable so the OP would no longer have the problem of fitting the end of the cord in the mouse hole. It’s just a suggestion to take or leave.

Sorry I missed that. Chris

[Logan X]

Sorry I missed that. Chris

No worries! We are all just trying to help!:)

[mfifield01]

I replaced mine with the one below. It just barely fits in the same area.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HFT034/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[TG10894]

I think I have some good ideas now. Thanks.

[hankaye]

TG10894, Howdy;

Here's a link to PPL Motor Homes Parts Dept menu.
I went ahead and brought up the Electrical page where you can have
a few choices. I have delt with them in the past with zero complaints.
They will even talk to ya on the phone if you need to ask a question or 2.
I have no dog in the fight just a satisfied customer.
https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/electrical-plumbing-lp-gas/rv-electrical-systems-and-accessories/plugs-connectors

hank

[itat]

Here is a link to the Marinco Park Power 30A male replacement plug. Whatever you buy you’ll have to confirm if will fit in the mouse hole unless you opt to install the kit that LoganX linked to or the SmartPlug that Snoking suggested.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00432Q69K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_h-vIDb3H8JH9E

[BadmanRick]

I replaced my plug with Parkworld 691609 RV 30AMP from amazon. Works great.

[SCGatl]

Hi folks - I want to convert my mousehole setup with one of these kits. Some of them seem to have 4" square electrical boxes that would obviously have to be mounted from the inside. I don't want to take everything apart that I would to get at the inside of the mousehole entry.

Can these be 100% installed from the outside?

[66joej]

Hi folks - I want to convert my mousehole setup with one of these kits. Some of them seem to have 4" square electrical boxes that would obviously have to be mounted from the inside. I don't want to take everything apart that I would to get at the inside of the mousehole entry.

Can these be 100% installed from the outside?

Some of them can be installed from the outside. I installed mine from both in and outside because I ran the power cord through my EMS. Usually there is a panel easily removable where your cord is stored. YMMV

[SCGatl]

My Hideout 175LHS has a divider in the box that separates the electrical panel and the other half where the cable is pushed into. The only opening is the hole where the cable enters the space behind the panel.

An EMS sounds like a good addition, but right now my shore power source is a Honda eu2200i generator which supplies pretty clean power.

Just about done installing a solar system,, still finishing up but it is running my air conditioner. I could relocate some parts if I didn’t have the cord storage space.