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View Full Version : Water valve - city to fresh tank fill - repair help.


major bumm
09-14-2019, 11:46 AM
Hi all,

Has anyone replaced this water valve/seal.

Last winter, the dock station froze up. Water line in ok, camper ok, docking station outside heated and ok. Stupid me forgot to open the inside lid. I think the temp was -19F that night. Anyway...

The valve directing the water to the camper or the fresh tank fill now leaks just a little bit. If I am on city water, it leaks into the fresh tank.

After two years of continual use, below zero winters, and travel, I am not complaining.




Thanks in advance!

JRTJH
09-14-2019, 12:38 PM
It's easy to replace, the two problems I see in your "future" are finding the correct replacement parts and gaining access to the back of the fixture so you can unscrew the old valve and attach the new one. On some trailers there's easy access, on some you've got to disassemble half the darn trailer to get to it.... I've no idea how or where yours is mounted, so no idea on how you'd gain access to the back side.

major bumm
09-14-2019, 01:18 PM
Thanks JRTJH!


I may have the right trailer... hmmmm... may have to play the lottery today. :)



Here is the back of the dock station. I will start looking for replacement parts. The larger ribbed white hose is the fresh tank fill line.

major bumm
11-07-2019, 11:45 PM
Thank again for all the help!


I disconnected the fresh tank fill line from the diverter and plugged the lines. The fresh tank continued to fill. "dirty rotten sheep herdin'" er..um.. I mean...


It turns out the problem was a check valve in the pump itself. ?? I didn't even consider that option possible. hmmm. I disconnected the output line running from the pump to the camper and capped that line. I also reconnected the city or fresh tank line to the diverter. The fresh tank does not fill up any longer.



Of course, I no longer have instant access to the fresh tank water supply, either. So, I am working to find a shut-off valve to connect to the pump output side. The pump still works great so why replace it.

Steveo57
11-08-2019, 06:04 AM
Thank again for all the help!


I disconnected the fresh tank fill line from the diverter and plugged the lines. The fresh tank continued to fill. "dirty rotten sheep herdin'" er..um.. I mean...


It turns out the problem was a check valve in the pump itself. ?? I didn't even consider that option possible. hmmm. I disconnected the output line running from the pump to the camper and capped that line. I also reconnected the city or fresh tank line to the diverter. The fresh tank does not fill up any longer.



Of course, I no longer have instant access to the fresh tank water supply, either. So, I am working to find a shut-off valve to connect to the pump output side. The pump still works great so why replace it.

I had a similar issue with water leaking back through the pump occasionally. I have a winterizing valve installed in the suction of the pump so I just put it in the winterize position to isolate the pump from the tank if it happens now.

I tried putting in a check valve in the discharge side of the pump but it caused the pump to run continuously and I couldn't get it adjusted to stop it.

JRTJH
11-08-2019, 10:17 AM
I had a similar issue with water leaking back through the pump occasionally. I have a winterizing valve installed in the suction of the pump so I just put it in the winterize position to isolate the pump from the tank if it happens now.

I tried putting in a check valve in the discharge side of the pump but it caused the pump to run continuously and I couldn't get it adjusted to stop it.

I'm not sure how your winterize valve setup is connected, but be careful about turning the valve to the open hose. If it's "plumbed to draw antifreeze from a jug" in that position, it's open and any "backflow through the water pump" can drip out of that open hose.

Steveo57
11-08-2019, 10:21 AM
I'm not sure how your winterize valve setup is connected, but be careful about turning the valve to the open hose. If it's "plumbed to draw antifreeze from a jug" in that position, it's open and any "backflow through the water pump" can drip out of that open hose.

I guess I should add that it has a cap screwed on tIght so it doesn't leak out.

JRTJH
11-08-2019, 02:56 PM
I guess I should add that it has a cap screwed on tIght so it doesn't leak out.

That addition just might keep someone who tries your suggestion from having to swim to the cabinet where the winterize valve is located...... :cool:

gearhead
11-09-2019, 04:49 AM
Put a check valve in the suction line of the pump. Be sure to get the arrow pointed correct...to the pump.

flybouy
11-09-2019, 04:54 AM
Following this post I don't understand why someone would want to "cap" off lines, disable functions, etc. Why not just fix the issue properly? Can anyone educate me on what I'm missing?

Not being sarcastic, just mystified.

JRTJH
11-09-2019, 08:21 AM
Following this post I don't understand why someone would want to "cap" off lines, disable functions, etc. Why not just fix the issue properly? Can anyone educate me on what I'm missing?

Not being sarcastic, just mystified.

^^^ X2

Seems to me that "cobbling together a work around" always leads to "other stuff not working"... Fix it right the first time and don't create more problems than you're trying to fix... They "always seem to appear at the most inopportune times", like on a Friday afternoon, while setting up the camper for a 3 day weekend with those special guests who drove in just to spend time with your family at that specific campground.......

I could "justify" a cobbled together fix to make it through the weekend, rather than cancel the trip, but Monday morning, I'd be ordering parts to fix it correctly and REMOVE the "cobbled together fix".....