Tailgate clearance/tongue jack

[Customer1]

On my old trailer the tailgate cleared the power tongue jack head when opened. This Cougar the jack head prevents opening the tailgate.

I know on some jacks you can unbolt the head and turn it to the side. I have the Lippert Ground Control 3.0 leveling system, can I turn the hitch head? I'm a little leery about messing with it since the tongue jack is part of the leveling system.

Thanks

[Snoking]

On my old trailer the tailgate cleared the power tongue jack head when opened. This Cougar the jack head prevents opening the tailgate.

I know on some jacks you can unbolt the head and turn it to the side. I have the Lippert Ground Control 3.0 leveling system, can I turn the hitch head? I'm a little leery about messing with it since the tongue jack is part of the leveling system.

Thanks

On our Laredo I wanted to turn the electric tongue jack a third (120 degree's), to get more clearance for tailgate, only to find out the bolt pattern will not allow that. I looked at trying to just turn the power head 180 degree's however that looked difficult, maybe not possible(that was a year ago).

Chris

[66joej]

On my old trailer the tailgate cleared the power tongue jack head when opened. This Cougar the jack head prevents opening the tailgate.

I know on some jacks you can unbolt the head and turn it to the side. I have the Lippert Ground Control 3.0 leveling system, can I turn the hitch head? I'm a little leery about messing with it since the tongue jack is part of the leveling system.

Thanks

Did the quarter turn on mine (same as yours). No problems and the holes line up.

[Ken / Claudia]

On mine, I had to do the quarter also, 1 of 3 bolt holes lined up. After looking the over, I drilled the other 2 holes that were needed. On my there is enough flat steel to do so and not enlarge any existing holes.

[Customer1]

Did the quarter turn on mine (same as yours). No problems and the holes line up.

On mine, I had to do the quarter also, 1 of 3 bolt holes lined up. After looking the over, I drilled the other 2 holes that were needed. On my there is enough flat steel to do so and not enlarge any existing holes.

66joej, did you turn the jack or the head?

Ken/Claudia, It appears you repositioned the entire jack, correct? I can probably drill new mount holes from the looks of it.

[MSB1766]

I turned mine 180 degrees, Took out the two bolts under the rubber plugs turned and installed the bolts. Now I have about 1 inch clearance.

[Snoking]

I turned mine 180 degrees, Took out the two bolts under the rubber plugs turned and installed the bolts. Now I have about 1 inch clearance.

I have to go look at mine again then. Was it a Lippert tongue jack? I can only open tail gate when parked pretty much straight on! Chris

[WNY Bullet]

Picture of your tongue jack?

I turned my Lippert jack head 90 degrees for my tailgate to clear.

https://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=995&pictureid=6565

[Snoking]

Picture of your tongue jack?

I turned my Lippert jack head 90 degrees for my tailgate to clear.

https://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=995&pictureid=6565

So what was involved in turning the head 90 degrees? I want to do it. Thanks Chris

[Ken / Claudia]

On mine the mount plate is solid, I rotated the whole jack quarter turn, 1 factory hole was still lining up. No others. I got under the frame and found I could drill 2 new holes and mount it. The whole process took an extra hour to have a powered jack. I am still glad I did it.

[WNY Bullet]

So what was involved in turning the head 90 degrees? I want to do it. Thanks Chris

I connected the truck, so there was no weight on the jack.
I disconnected power by removing the inline fuse to the jack.
I removed the two bolts from each side holding the motor head on.
Motor head lifted up and off the post.
There were two additional holes 90 degrees from the original ones used. They will need to be threaded (Tapped) to be able to accept the mounting screws.
Then screw the head back on in the new position.

So only the motor head is rotated, nothing else.

I hope that makes sense...

[Snoking]

I connected the truck, so there was no weight on the jack.
I disconnected power by removing the inline fuse to the jack.
I removed the two bolts from each side holding the motor head on.
Motor head lifted up and off the post.
There were two additional holes 90 degrees from the original ones used. They will need to be threaded (Tapped) to be able to accept the mounting screws.
Then screw the head back on in the new position.

So only the motor head is rotated, nothing else.

I hope that makes sense...

OK this is today's project if I have the right size tap. Will have to find the bag of taps I have first. When we downsize out of a home to two RV resorts, sometimes things are in the wrong state when you want to use them.

Thanks Chris

[WNY Bullet]

OK this is today's project if I have the right size tap. Will have to find the bag of taps I have first. When we downsize out of a home to two RV resorts, sometimes things are in the wrong state when you want to use them.

Thanks Chris

Yeah, I couldn't find the right tap in my tool box, so a trip to Home Depot and I bought a new one.

Mike

[Snoking]

Yeah, I couldn't find the right tap in my tool box, so a trip to Home Depot and I bought a new one.

Mike

So you took out the four lower screws on the cover and the two at the top under the plug to see 'things' and accomplish the turning 90 degrees. Or are the two screws behind the to side plugs, and one can do it with the covers on? Thanks again for you input. Chris

[WNY Bullet]

So you took out the four lower screws on the cover and the two at the top under the plug to see 'things' and accomplish the turning 90 degrees. Or are the two screws behind the to side plugs, and one can do it with the covers on? Thanks again for you input. Chris

Just the two bolts under the side plugs and the whole head will lift off

[Snoking]

Just the two bolts under the side plugs and the whole head will lift off

OK, thanks. Trailer is setting real level and I have a lot of blockage setting next the the trailer and the wheel chocks are in place(home made with two pieces of 4x4 with ends beveled to match the curve of the tires) and an all thread rod that locks them between the tires, so I can do it without hitching up. Chris

[WNY Bullet]

OK, thanks. Trailer is setting real level and I have a lot of blockage setting next the the trailer and the wheel chocks are in place(home made with two pieces of 4x4 with ends beveled to match the curve of the tires) and an all thread rod that locks them between the tires, so I can do it without hitching up. Chris

You will need to support the tongue so you can raise the jack to take pressure off so you can remove the head. So it was easiest just to hook up.

[Snoking]

I Credit WNT Bullet for this project:

First off I would like to say it was more work freeing up the wire bundle that actually turning the head 90 degrees to the drivers side.

1. You will need a 5/16-18 tread tap. The one pictured is the first one I found and it was a bottom tap and I had to go back to the bag and find one with the starting taper.

2. After freeing up the wire bundle to allow enough slack to lift the head off, removing the two 5/16 bolts the drive head lifted right off. I removed one propane tank and the drivers side equalizer saddle to get at the wiring bundle.

3. I then turned lead screw in the post 90 degree so I would be ready to line up at the new position.

4. I pushed some paper towel pieces down below where the two existing fore and aft holes needed to be tapped with 5/16-18 threads.

5. I vacuumed out the tapping debris and remove the paper towel pieces.

6. Reinstalled the head and two 5/16 bolts

As shown in the attached pictures I gained 3 1/2" which is going to be great. Chris

[WNY Bullet]

I Credit WNT Bullet for this project:

First off I would like to say it was more work freeing up the wire bundle that actually turning the head 90 degrees to the drivers side.

1. You will need a 5/16-18 tread tap. The one pictured is the first one I found and it was a bottom tap and I had to go back to the bag and find one with the starting taper.

2. After freeing up the wire bundle to allow enough slack to lift the head off, removing the two 5/16 bolts the drive head lifted right off. I removed one propane tank and the drivers side equalizer saddle to get at the wiring bundle.

3. I then turned lead screw in the post 90 degree so I would be ready to line up at the new position.

4. I pushed some paper towel pieces down below where the two existing fore and aft holes needed to be tapped with 5/16-18 threads.

5. I vacuumed out the tapping debris and remove the paper towel pieces.

6. Reinstalled the head and two 5/16 bolts

As shown in the attached pictures I gain 3 1/2" which is going to be great. Chris

Glad it worked out for you.

[Customer1]

Thanks for all your input, looks like I will be turning the head.

[thefulminator]

Just a heads up for all of you with the Lippert jack. I had one that came standard on my 2013 Outback 250RS. A few years ago the up/down switch started to fail. After doing some research I found that the switches on the Lippert, at least at that time, were not waterproof and were known for going bad. Living in Western Washington State, water would be a continual problem.

I found the replacement switch but at around $70 I was hesitant to purchase it knowing that I would have the same problem again in a few years. The tailgate on my 2009 Silverado 1500 also would strike the Lippert when I tried to open it. I ended up replacing the entire jack with a Husky Brute 4500 from Amazon. Yes it was more expensive than the new switch but I dreaded the thought of having the switch go out and having to hand crank the trailer to hook up somewhere. The switches on the Husky are waterproof and the screw uses ball bearings, not just grease like the Lippert.

The Husky is much more powerful than the Lippert. It doesn't seem to have to work hard at all to lift the loaded truck and trailer combination when hooking up. My tailgate now clears the Husky which is an added benefit. I have never regretted purchasing the Husky.

[Customer1]

Thanks all for your input, I turned the LCI jack head yesterday and it was a piece of cake.

By clipping a couple cable ties I had enough slack in the wires to lift the head free of the post. I tapped threads in the holes that were already existing and put everything together using the original bolts but with the head turned to the side. I gained 3.5 inches with the mod.

I didn't notice anyone above mention this but the bolts had blue threadlocker on the threads. When installing the bolts with the head in the new position, I put a generous amount of blue Loctite on the bolts to insure they don't loosen.

[WNY Bullet]

Thanks all for your input, I turned the LCI jack head yesterday and it was a piece of cake.

By clipping a couple cable ties I had enough slack in the wires to lift the head free of the post. I tapped threads in the holes that were already existing and put everything together using the original bolts but with the head turned to the side. I gained 3.5 inches with the mod.

I didn't notice anyone above mention this but the bolts had blue threadlocker on the threads. When installing the bolts with the head in the new position, I put a generous amount of blue Loctite on the bolts to insure they don't loosen.

I did the same, just forgot to add that to the steps. That is almost a given for most bolts and nuts on the trailer.

[DJ&JA]

A great big thank you for all the free and valuable information given here. Never would have thought that I would be able to open the tail gate when hooked up. What a surprise and simple to do too. I took the two horizontal bolts out after relieving the trailer weight and swiveled the tongue jack 90* and there were the two new holes!


Tomorrow I'll get a tap and then be all set for a new convenience while being hitched up.



Great info and just wanted to let you all know that there are probably a lot of lurkers here like myself who profit handsomely from all the info.


Just thought you'd like to know.


Sure hope Dorian doesn't destroy Edisto Beach State Park in SC cause that's our next trip in less than 30 days from now!

[WNY Bullet]

I'm glad to hear... Sometimes the simplest mods give us the biggest returns.

To use our tailgates......Priceless!

[WNY Bullet]

Just an FYI to anyone looking to do this mod, the newer Lippert Jacks do not have the additional holes. So in order to turn the head sideways, you will need to drill new holes and then tap them.

I just had to replace my jack and just found this out...

[JJnLilly]

Was just about to rotate my jack when I found an extended one on-line. Added 2+ inches was more than enough to lower my tailgate. Recall I had and extended on when we towed with a Tahoe with barn doors. Cost me $45 but worth it.

[WNY Bullet]

Was just about to rotate my jack when I found an extended one on-line. Added 2+ inches was more than enough to lower my tailgate. Recall I had and extended on when we towed with a Tahoe with barn doors. Cost me $45 but worth it.

Extended what... Hitch?

[Derboreno]

Just an FYI to anyone looking to do this mod, the newer Lippert Jacks do not have the additional holes. So in order to turn the head sideways, you will need to drill new holes and then tap them.

I just had to replace my jack and just found this out...

That’s what I discovered when I pulled my jack head, only two holes. I then pulled the jack tube from the triangle, measured excessively, and drilled and tapped a new rear bolt hole, the one by the propane tanks. I reassembled everything and then marked the front bolt hole, removed the jack head again, drilled and tapped the front hole and did final assembly with blue loctite. The location of the new bolt holes is critical with no room for error.