Fresh water tank

[Cferg]

My fresh water tank is filling when I am connected to city water. How do I correct this?

[NH_Bulldog]

What year and model of trailer?

[Cferg]

2019 passport got 2820bh

[NH_Bulldog]

Very similar to ours.

The city water line tee’s into the hose on the output side of the water pump. For water to get from there to your tank, it would have to flow backwards through the pump and into the tank. So either the pump is jacked, or they installed the tee on the wrong side of the pump. Have you ever used the pump instead of city water and if so did/does it operate normally? The pump is inside the lower compartment to the left of the queen bed (as you look towards the front of the trailer from inside).

Here is what mine looks like. The big corrugated pipe is the tank fill, the braided white hose is the suction side of the pump and the blue PEX is the discharge side with the city water inlet tee into it.

[Cferg]

Yes have used the pump once or twice and was fine. So is the only solution a new pump? I figured the problem was that water was back flowing through the pump check valve must not be sealing?? Guess I will be contacting keystone and dealer for fix. Thanks

[NH_Bulldog]

It is likely a check valve issue in the pump then. This can be caused by running the pump while connected to city water, or not using a pressure regulator on the city water inlet, or debris caught in the check valve. We had quite a few debris issues in our pump until the 3rd or 4th trip out.

We have had ours for only a few months and I would rather be camping than having my trailer sitting at the dealer so since I tend to be a do-it-yourself kind of guy, I took the pump apart and cleaned it myself. Any other issues can wait until fall

[bobbecky]

Regardless of how you resolve the issue with the check valve in your pump, use a pump screen to prevent future debris from getting into the pump. https://www.amazon.com/rv-water-pump-strainer/s?k=rv+water+pump+strainer

We had a similar problem several years ago, and did not have an RV dealer nearby. I went to a local hardware store, picked up a 1/2" check valve that would fit the PEX, and cut the valve into the PEX line on the pressure side of the pump, which fixed the problem. Even with a new pump a couple years later, just left the valve in place and still works great. I would not recommend installing the check valve on the tank side of the pump, because the fittings on the water pump screen/strainers usually can not handle the pressure. Installing the check valve might just save you a hassle at a dealer and a lot of down time for a simple fix.

[JRTJH]

Regardless of how you resolve the issue with the check valve in your pump, use a pump screen to prevent future debris from getting into the pump. https://www.amazon.com/rv-water-pump-strainer/s?k=rv+water+pump+strainer

We had a similar problem several years ago, and did not have an RV dealer nearby. I went to a local hardware store, picked up a 1/2" check valve that would fit the PEX, and cut the valve into the PEX line on the pressure side of the pump, which fixed the problem. Even with a new pump a couple years later, just left the valve in place and still works great. I would not recommend installing the check valve on the tank side of the pump, because the fittings on the water pump screen/strainers usually can not handle the pressure. Installing the check valve might just save you a hassle at a dealer and a lot of down time for a simple fix.

The strainer at the link you posted is for a shureflo pump. It will not fit a flojet pump. The OP posted a photo of his pump which is a flojet. The shureflo pump uses threaded connectors, the flojet pump uses blue lock ring connectors for the fittings. The correct strainer for the OP's flojet pump is located here: https://www.amazon.com/Flojet-01740300A-Pump-Mini-Strainer/dp/B004BC6E2Q/ref=sr_1_4?crid=10DCQ1YNK6GQW&keywords=flojet+water+pump+strainer&qid=1564364763&s=gateway&sprefix=flo+jet++water+pump+strainer%2Caps%2C232&sr=8-4

[busterbrown]

If the pump is defective and you don't want to have it held hostage for the remainder of the camping season, I'd suggest contacting your selling dealer and see if they will reimburse you the money for a replacement you can buy off Amazon. Or, maybe they can just ship you a new one. The job is very straight forward and takes about 15 minutes. DC water pumps are relatively inexpensive. Even if the dealer will not reimburse the cost, the time and gas saved buy doing the job yourself is probably in your financial best interest.

I had a thermostat go bad on my Bullet during the first season and bought a replacement. Dealer send me a check 2 weeks later. Do note, not all dealers are created equal.

[Cferg]

Thanks for the suggestion! Does anyone know if there is a check valve elsewhere in the system or is the check valve in the pump?

[JRTJH]

The only "factory plumbed in" check valve that I've seen in Keystone products is the pump. On some "SOB" trailers, I've seen a second check valve between the city water inlet and the pump outlet, but not Keystone.

In other words, replace your pump and you'll solve your problem.

Now, that said, there is also a check valve located INSIDE the city water inlet. Its purpose is not to prevent water from flowing INTO the fresh water tank, but to prevent water from flowing OUT of the city water fitting (and down the side of the trailer) when dry camping and the city water hose is not connected. That check valve, in the city water inlet, has nothing to do with your problem.

ADDED: Here is one link to the pump you need: https://www.amazon.com/Flojet-03526-144A-Triplex-Diaphragm-Automatic/dp/B002P33KVQ/ref=sr_1_19?keywords=rv+water+pump&qid=1564495964&s=gateway&sr=8-19

I would suggest also adding this strainer to the pump INLET side to protect from more trash being pulled from the fresh water tank: https://www.amazon.com/Flojet-01740300A-Pump-Mini-Strainer/dp/B004BC6E2Q/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=FLOJET+rv+water+pump+strainer&qid=1564496133&s=gateway&sr=8-11

Total cost for both the new pump and the strainer is around $65. Chances are that the time off from work, the personal time spent hauling the trailer to the dealership and then going back to pick it up plus your tow vehicle costs (fuel/mileage) will be more than the cost of the pump and strainer. So, as suggested, cut your losses, increase your RV availability for the rest of the summer and replace it yourself. A 15 minute job (4 screws and 2 wires) and be done with it.

[Cferg]

Thanks for the information