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littlemidget
07-22-2019, 11:59 AM
So we always go camping with nonelectric sites, and just use the solar panels to charge the battery. I took my troop camping this weekend (it was 100 degrees) and has all intentions to plug in the trailer and run the AC. Well, pull up, set up, go to plug it in, grab the cord and it is a 110 plug???? I attempted to plug in thinking that is weird and it trips the campgrounds GFI. I had the campground owners look at it for me. He said I should have a 30 amp plug coming out of my camper, not a 110 cord.:banghead: So here is my question, did the guy we bought this from replacing the 30 amp cord with a 110 or is there a 30 amp plug hiding somewhere that I am missing? - 2008 Keystone Outback 30 ft bunkhouse 30bhq.

it looks like a regular household extension cord and is bright yellow. It says 120V 30amp on the sticker above the hole that holds it, but it's not a 30 amp plug.

chuckster57
07-22-2019, 12:15 PM
30A is 110. When you say it has a 110 plug on it, does then you plug in look like an ordinary extension cord? A 30A RV plug will have 3 prongs. One round and two flat that are at an angle and “”in line” with the round pin. It’s quite possible that the P.O. Wired it wrong.

https://www.amazon.com/Leisure-Receptacle-Electrical-Adapter-Handle/dp/B07BZ17KRR/ref=asc_df_B07BZ17KRR/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=%7Bcreative%7D&hvpos=%7Badposition%7D&hvnetw=o&hvrand=%7Brandom%7D&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=%7Bdevicemodel%7D&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584070137888097&psc=1

MarkEHansen
07-22-2019, 12:17 PM
There's probably a 30 (or perhaps 50) amp connection on the trailer somewhere. Sometimes folks will add a 110v cord to a trailer to "boost" the 30-amp service a bit - to allow for two A/C units.

I think some units just have a jack on the trailer, and the cable is completely separate, stored in a storage area). I would open all the little doors/hatches and see if you can find a big round outlet in there.

littlemidget
07-22-2019, 12:18 PM
Sorry, it looks like a regular household extension cord and is bright yellow. It says 120V 30amp on the sticker above the hole that holds it, but it's not a 30 amp plug.

Roscommon48
07-22-2019, 12:29 PM
i'm confused. what does the plug in end look like? whatever it looks like it seems like it it is still only 120 voltage.

Just get an adapter for that end so you can plug into the 120 voltage at the campground.
https://www.amazon.com/Leisure-Dogbone-Adapter-Electrical-Converter/dp/B07BZ2B22F/ref=asc_df_B07BZ2B22F/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242041198988&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12250813587283087780&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017518&hvtargid=pla-452411550713&psc=1

littlemidget
07-22-2019, 12:36 PM
i'm confused. what does the plug in end look like? whatever it looks like it seems like it it is still only 120 voltage.

Just get an adapter for that end so you can plug into the 120 voltage at the campground.
https://www.amazon.com/Leisure-Dogbone-Adapter-Electrical-Converter/dp/B07BZ2B22F/ref=asc_df_B07BZ2B22F/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242041198988&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12250813587283087780&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017518&hvtargid=pla-452411550713&psc=1

So it just looks like a normal extension cord. I was looking at those adaptors, but thought, if it is the wrong cord, shouldn't we replace with the correct cord? I guess I'm afraid of running 120 Vlt 30amp through a 110Vlt 20 am line and plug would be a risk of electrical damage.

chuckster57
07-22-2019, 12:36 PM
Sorry, it looks like a regular household extension cord and is bright yellow. It says 120V 30amp on the sticker above the hole that holds it, but it's not a 30 amp plug.

I’d bet money it’s mis wired. Go inside and look where the cord goes in. It’s probably behind a panel. You should find a junction box. Open it up and look at the 3 conductors. If there are 4 then it’s 50A and we have to start from scratch.

littlemidget
07-22-2019, 12:40 PM
I’d bet money it’s mis wired. Go inside and look where the cord goes in. It’s probably behind a panel. You should find a junction box. Open it up and look at the 3 conductors. If there are 4 then it’s 50A and we have to start from scratch.

Thanks, I will do that. Just seems odd to wire the wrong plug to save a few bucks....or if he didn't know what he was doing, makes me question the safety of any of the wire, because I don't know why he had to change the plug and what else he may have "fixed"

hankpage
07-22-2019, 12:50 PM
The plug you are describing is a NEMA 5-15P and is only rated for 15 amps. The important thing is the size of the cable that is connected to the trailer. Have you pulled yellow cord all the way out to see what is on the other end. Perhaps the previous owner connected the extension cord to the RV 30amp cord to use at home and joined the two cords with an adapter. Just changing the plug will not help since the yellow cord is not heavy enough for 30 amp. Let us know what you find and maybe we can be of some help. JM2¢, Hank

NH_Bulldog
07-22-2019, 01:48 PM
The correct size cord should be about 3/4” in diameter. The sticker on the side of the camper means nothing. Look at the cord. It is printed or stamped with all the info you need every foot or so. Look for something like 10/3 AWG or 8/3 AWG

RWRiley
07-22-2019, 01:55 PM
Have you pulled yellow cord all the way out to see what is on the other end. Perhaps the previous owner connected the extension cord to the RV 30amp cord to use at home and joined the two cords with an adapter.

I would bet a beer that is the problem. I can't imagine it leaving the factory like that, and there would be no reason for anyone to rewire with 15amp.

littlemidget
07-22-2019, 02:32 PM
I would bet a beer that is the problem. I can't imagine it leaving the factory like that, and there would be no reason for anyone to rewire with 15amp.

Well here is the wiring also looks like the batter ground is just hanging out https://youtu.be/6aDAlTaPljg

littlemidget
07-22-2019, 02:33 PM
https://youtu.be/6aDAlTaPljg video of the setup

RWRiley
07-22-2019, 02:49 PM
It's hard to see from the video, but it looks like the original 30 amp cord is there and that is what is wired into the panel. It also looks like somebody cut it off, and grafted on a 15 amp cord. If I am seeing it correctly, I would say the whole cord needs to be replaced with a new 30 amp cord.

If you ever need to plug directly into 15 amp just go get the $5 adapter.

So I guess I lost a beer :)

littlemidget
07-22-2019, 03:44 PM
It's hard to see from the video, but it looks like the original 30 amp cord is there and that is what is wired into the panel. It also looks like somebody cut it off, and grafted on a 15 amp cord. If I am seeing it correctly, I would say the whole cord needs to be replaced with a new 30 amp cord.

If you ever need to plug directly into 15 amp just go get the $5 adapter.

So I guess I lost a beer :)

Lol I was thinking really why the :censored::censored: would you do that. I'll order a new plug with bare wire ends to wire into the main. I'll take a Guinness please ;-)

chuckster57
07-22-2019, 03:44 PM
Wow. There should be a junction box mounted in the space where the wire nuts are. You need to start over, should be Romex from the box to the breaker panel too.

Daryles
07-22-2019, 03:52 PM
Any chance you can contact the PO and ask him how he has this wired?
A mistake could be costly.

RWRiley
07-22-2019, 04:14 PM
Wow. There should be a junction box mounted in the space where the wire nuts are. You need to start over, should be Romex from the box to the breaker panel too.

Good advice me thinks. Who knows what all he did to the original setup. He may have ripped a bunch of stuff out that needs to be there.

chuckster57
07-22-2019, 06:45 PM
You could run a new 30A RV shore cord all the way to the breaker panel, just be sure to use a P clamp to prevent pulling the cord out of the panel.

LHaven
07-22-2019, 07:04 PM
You may want to consider submitting that video to "There, I fixed it!" (https://failblog.cheezburger.com/thereifixedit) :thewave:

travelin texans
07-22-2019, 07:45 PM
Don't think I'd call the previous owner for anything, obviously knows NOTHING about power for a rv. I'd also look closely at all wiring whether 120 or 12 volt.

chuckster57
07-22-2019, 07:46 PM
Don't think I'd call the previous owner for anything, obviously knows NOTHING about power for a rv. I'd also look closely at all wiring whether 120 or 12 volt.



Agree wholeheartedly

hankpage
07-22-2019, 08:03 PM
Looks to me as if someone stole the shore-power cord and this was the owners fix for it so he could sell the trailer.
If it were mine I would get a 30 ft. Marinco ParkPower 30 Amp, 125V cord set and Marinco 30 Amp inlet so you can remove the cord for safe keeping.
Link to inlet (https://www.boatid.com/marinco/inlet-cap-and-bezel-white-mpn-301elcb.html?view=281232&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7siS7JLK4wIVBp6fCh3WWQduEAQYCiAB EgLj8vD_BwE) ... Link to 30amp cord (https://www.boatid.com/marinco/marinco-cord-plus-shore-power-cords-1304766982.html)
Hope this helps, Hank

Roscommon48
07-23-2019, 04:44 AM
you are overthinking it. from what you are saying it is a 'regualar plug' just plug it in and it'll work. just don't overload it

littlemidget
07-23-2019, 05:03 AM
you are overthinking it. from what you are saying it is a 'regular plug' just plug it in and it'll work. just don't overload it

nope, the only way it would plugin and not trip the campgrounds box (the second you turned their breaker back on) was if ALL of my breakers inside are turned off inside, so basically it ran nothing. If I turned the main break on, it tripped the box, if I turned any break on it tripped their box. Had to use my solar panels to keep the battery charged so the fridge could keep lighting to run on gas. 100 degrees it ran a lot. Also never turned on a single light to whole time so just the fridge was using the battery and the cord could power nothing.

MarkEHansen
07-23-2019, 05:12 AM
you are overthinking it. from what you are saying it is a 'regualar plug' just plug it in and it'll work. just don't overload it

Overthinking it? Trying to run a 30A camper through a 15A extension cord is a recipe for disaster. He would have to never use his air conditioner or microwave or ...

No, I think repairing the camper back to full 30A service is the minimum required.

littlemidget
07-23-2019, 05:29 AM
Don't think I'd call the previous owner for anything, obviously knows NOTHING about power for a rv. I'd also look closely at all wiring whether 120 or 12 volt.

Yeah, I'm glad we almost never camp with electric, but we have a week-long vacation coming up in august on an electric site, so would like to fix it before that. I'm pretty comfortable with electrical work in the house, but don't know too much about RVs. I'm going to see if my friend that is an electrician can look it over and help me out.

Thanks, everyone for their help.

retiredusps69
07-23-2019, 06:59 AM
I would also install a new inlet and a new cord.You can also get them on Amazon or EBay.Not a hard job only 3 wires.You seem to have a short length of cable from inverter so you would have easy hookup. Maybe previous owner pulled off of site hooked up. Saw it happen and guy never returned. PAYS TO DO A SECOND WALK AROUND BEFORE PULLING OUT!!!!

retiredusps69
07-23-2019, 07:24 AM
I would also install a new inlet and a new cord.You can also get them on Amazon or EBay.Not a hard job only 3 wires.You seem to have a short length of cable from inverter so you would have easy hookup. Maybe previous owner pulled off of site hooked up. Saw it happen and guy never returned. PAYS TO DO A SECOND WALK AROUND BEFORE PULLING OUT!!!!
Ops meant to say converter

travelin texans
07-23-2019, 08:23 AM
Can you say "redneck shore cord!"?
Bubba said "sure I can fix that there cord for ya! I do it this here way all the dadgum time!".

hankpage
07-23-2019, 08:48 AM
nope, the only way it would plugin and not trip the campgrounds box (the second you turned their breaker back on) was if ALL of my breakers inside are turned off inside, so basically it ran nothing. If I turned the main break on, it tripped the box, if I turned any break on it tripped their box. Had to use my solar panels to keep the battery charged so the fridge could keep lighting to run on gas. 100 degrees it ran a lot. Also never turned on a single light to whole time so just the fridge was using the battery and the cord could power nothing.

Here I go guessing again. What you describe sounds like the previous owner crossed the hot and the neutral when he made his make-shift repair and is causing a short to ground when the trailer's breaker is turned on.. The small piece of the original power cord should have a black, a white and a green wire of at least #10 gauge. Most likely the Chinese cord the PO used does not use the same colors or he did not connect them correctly. I feel that replacing the cord (which you will need any way) and connecting black to black, white to white and green to green will correct your problem. Along with the inlet and RV cord you will need a short length of 10/2 SJ cord to connect the inlet to the junction box available at any home supply store. IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE DOING THIS PLEASE SEEK THE HELP OF AN ELECTRICIAN!!!

Roscommon48
07-23-2019, 12:56 PM
Stop with the guessing from us, get it to a dealer and resolve the issue.

travelin texans
07-23-2019, 01:49 PM
Stop with the guessing from us, get it to a dealer and resolve the issue.

The problem with that solution is he may want to use the RV before next winter!
If they know an electrician, or basic electrical knowledge, it could be done easily in an hour or less

MarkEHansen
07-23-2019, 01:50 PM
not to mention for a lot less money.

hankpage
07-23-2019, 02:03 PM
Stop with the guessing from us, get it to a dealer and resolve the issue.

Wow! I doubt if I could find a dealer in my area that would take in an eleven year old trailer with a problem like this. If you found one the cost would make your head spin. Marked up parts and $100+ per hr rates to trouble shoot and they may get to it by Christmas if you leave it. This is based on my experience with dealers that I did not buy the trailer from.
If I were not comfortable rewiring it myself I could get a licensed electrician to come to my house promptly and know the job was done correctly. It is a simple 3 wire connection with the correct parts. Mounting the inlet is the hardest part of the job. The short piece on cable cleanly cut and left behind tells me the original 30 amp cable was stolen and scrapped by thief. Very common in storage areas and seasonal sites. :hide:

littlemidget
07-24-2019, 01:11 PM
Thanks everyone, I'm not going to take it into a dealer. I will rewire it myself and have my electrician friend look it over. I already ordered the Twist Lock Inlet and twist and lock cord. Thank you for all your help.

WNY Bullet
07-25-2019, 01:23 AM
Thanks everyone, I'm not going to take it into a dealer. I will rewire it myself and have my electrician friend look it over. I already ordered the Twist Lock Inlet and twist and lock cord. Thank you for all your help.

Sounds like a good time to add a hardwired EMS to your rig and that could act as your junction box!

German Shepherd Guy
07-25-2019, 04:12 AM
Sounds like a good time to add a hardwired EMS to your rig and that could act as your junction box!


Totally agree. :cool: I know you do not use electric hook ups much but the EMS will protect your stuff when you do and a hard wired one is so much more convenient than a add on one. (Which is what I have) BUT they are EXPENSIVE. :eek: That said if you can absorb the cost go ahead and do it.

littlemidget
07-27-2019, 10:30 AM
Have any of you done the inlet conversion? My problem is to convert the 5 " hole to the 3" inlet box. I saw some kits online, but based on searches here, they don't fix the keystones old hole, so you have to rig them up anyway. Since I already have the new inlet box, figured just easier to find a way to rig it up without buying a $90 kit that doesn't fit.

MerlinB
07-27-2019, 10:56 AM
Totally agree. :cool: I know you do not use electric hook ups much but the EMS will protect your stuff when you do and a hard wired one is so much more convenient than a add on one. (Which is what I have) BUT they are EXPENSIVE. :eek: That said if you can absorb the cost go ahead and do it.

Sorry, but I don't think they are expensive at all when you consider the alternative of possibly having to replace your TV(s), microwave, DVD player, WH control board, A/C controls, refrigerator control board, and who knows what else might get destroyed by a severe over voltage or surge condition. It's like any other kind of insurance: you get the coverage you are willing to pay for. YMMV.

retiredusps69
07-27-2019, 12:11 PM
You might want to cut in a power cord hatch access door. Then you can store your cable in the trailer with every thing hooked up.They run about $16.00 on Ebay Would save you from trying to reduce the opening you now have.You could even get one that is just a door so you won't get critters.Make a bracket to hang your twist lock and be done.

JRTJH
07-27-2019, 07:50 PM
If I were trying to close off a 5" hole and mounting a 3" plug in its place, I think I'd fabricate a 1/8" thick 6x6 or 8x8 aluminum plate with the 3" hole cut in it. Paint it to match the remaining plastic/metal components on the trailer, then use butyl putty tape and put it in place, securing with 4, 6 or even 8 screws if needed. Then install the 30 amp receptacle to the hole in the plate.

WNY Bullet
07-28-2019, 12:43 AM
Have any of you done the inlet conversion? My problem is to convert the 5 " hole to the 3" inlet box. I saw some kits online, but based on searches here, they don't fix the keystones old hole, so you have to rig them up anyway. Since I already have the new inlet box, figured just easier to find a way to rig it up without buying a $90 kit that doesn't fit.

My kit came with a reducing ring.

https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-Marinco-30ARVKIT-125V-Conversion/dp/B000NUYZQC/ref=pd_cp_263_2?pd_rd_w=Kbosd&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=F24AJNS7Y0HKWHFY973G&pd_rd_r=5c75cba2-b6e2-4bd7-b496-7f471a9aaea9&pd_rd_wg=ikm7a&pd_rd_i=B000NUYZQC&psc=1&refRID=F24AJNS7Y0HKWHFY973G

Steveo57
07-28-2019, 06:19 AM
If I were trying to close off a 5" hole and mounting a 3" plug in its place, I think I'd fabricate a 1/8" thick 6x6 or 8x8 aluminum plate with the 3" hole cut in it. Paint it to match the remaining plastic/metal components on the trailer, then use butyl putty tape and put it in place, securing with 4, 6 or even 8 screws if needed. Then install the 30 amp receptacle to the hole in the plate.

That's pretty much what I did. Used a piece of 1/4" starboard and a backer board inside. The starboard is easy to work with.

WNY Bullet
07-28-2019, 07:07 AM
https://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=995&pictureid=6502

travelin texans
07-28-2019, 10:35 AM
https://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=995&pictureid=6502

I'd highly recommend getting the 90 degree plug pictured, it'll save the cord from seperating from the plug eventually.

CampNBrew2
07-29-2019, 07:24 AM
I'd highly recommend getting the 90 degree plug pictured, it'll save the cord from separating from the plug eventually.

Nice! Does that have a locking tab to keep it from working loose? Actually do any of them? I've been wanting to get rid of the mouse hole and wadded up cord and install one of these.

travelin texans
07-29-2019, 07:29 AM
It's a 1/4 twist to connect with a locking ring, as are most of the detachable cords.

johnlewis
07-29-2019, 07:01 PM
Yeah, I'm glad we almost never camp with electric, but we have a week-long vacation coming up in august on an electric site, so would like to fix it before that. I'm pretty comfortable with electrical work in the house, but don't know too much about RVs. I'm going to see if my friend that is an electrician can look it over and help me out.

Thanks, everyone for their help.

IF THIS IS SUPPOSED TO BE A 30A CIRCUIT, MAKE SURE YOUR ELECTRICIAN FRIEND UNDERSTANDS THAT A 30A CIRCUIT IN AN RV IS A 120 VAC CIRCUIT, NOT A 240 VAC CIRCUIT. Electricians who do house wiring assume a 30A circuit is 240 VAC, since electric dryers, stovetops, etc. are 240 VAC. A master electrician friend of mine made this mistake. Fortunately, it was caught before any major damage was done.

jimborokz
07-31-2019, 03:02 AM
nope, the only way it would plugin and not trip the campgrounds box (the second you turned their breaker back on) was if ALL of my breakers inside are turned off inside, so basically it ran nothing. If I turned the main break on, it tripped the box, if I turned any break on it tripped their box. Had to use my solar panels to keep the battery charged so the fridge could keep lighting to run on gas. 100 degrees it ran a lot. Also never turned on a single light to whole time so just the fridge was using the battery and the cord could power nothing.

There is more here than just a bad replacement cord that is likely too small. If you are tripping breaker every time is was also wired wrong. You need to rip out that yellow stuff and run a new 30A power cord all the way back to the junction box. Also you may want to do a full inspection of any other changes that may have been made. I would be very warry of any wiring the PO may have done since he obviously didn't have a clue.

Roscommon48
07-31-2019, 03:38 AM
I wonder what the orginial posting guy did about his electrical problem?

littlemidget
08-12-2019, 11:56 AM
I wonder what the original posting guy did about his electrical problem?
FYI - I'm a girl ;)But anyway...
Hi sorry everyone didn't get a chance to update before we went camping in the forest (with an electric site) for a week. Anyway, I wired a 30amp inlet in the day before we left. Since the Original wire to the breaker box was still there and long enough to reach the inlet, I wired that directly into the inlet. I found a round seal large enough to cover the opening for now, but will probably buy the board suggested above to put a sturdier cover over the old hole, but ran out of time before vacation. It did rain a lot with no leaks :bow: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JZ44ZKZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And we attached this cord https://www.amazon.com/Camco-PowerGrip-Weatherproof-Connection-55501/dp/B005BNZGCS/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2/144-7003044-1333124?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005BNZGCS&pd_rd_r=c171fa0a-d656-495d-ab1e-5ed14ae83e34&pd_rd_w=NDDgi&pd_rd_wg=sCKYL&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=KT73ETW7AXFBE7MR9STT&refRID=KT73ETW7AXFBE7MR9STT&th=1&fbclid=IwAR1uyLRUxpEiBwDzpiI69zKGs3mjui8xugpH-NCroauAXbZKCxUWLOz1ik0
and bought the $5 adaptor if we need to ever hook it up to a regular outlet. Our electrician friend was out of town, so we just had to go with it. My hubby doesn't know anything electric, I've done a bunch of electrical work to my first home before I met my husband. Hubby brought extension cords to run to the inside of the camper, just in case it didn't work, but everything worked like a charm, no issues all week, and not breaker or fuse issues.

But thank you, everyone, for all your help and for making it possible for my family to have a successful camping trip.

MarkEHansen
08-12-2019, 01:09 PM
Thanks for posting back. We do love to hear the happy endings :)