Dometic RM2862 no panel lights

[foszoe]

Hi,

Just picked up a used 2007 Copper Canyon with the Dometic RM 2862 refrigerator at a dealer. The dealer had everything hooked up and running on AC but also had a battery charger hooked to the battery because the 12V was dead. Everything worked. Fridge was cooling. It was an as is sale.

Got home and the next day I wanted to run it on propane to see how it worked. It would not start. I checked fuses and found one blown but not labelled anything obvious like "fridge".

I swapped out the fuse and also took the battery out while disconnected to charge it. When I put the battery back in, the fridge started up and ran for 5 hours cooling down slowly but steady enough. So I shut it off.

I came on here researching refrigerators thinking the fuse was the issue but then read manuals talking about the importance of voltage so I went out and tried to turn on the fridge. It didn't come on. The voltage at the battery was 9.2 and by the time I got to the back of the fridge it was in the 8s. Ah ha I said!. It's a voltage issue. I swapped the battery out and the same mysterious fuse in the power center blew. I replaced it. Now I had 12.54V at the battery and 12.37 at the back of the fridge. I go inside and hit the on/off button....nothing.

I checked the thermofuse button I had read about and it could not be pushed in. I disconnected the battery and disconnected the wires to the thermofuse. The reset button now moved in and out quite easily and the thermofuse continuity check passed. Once connected back to power, the reset button was again frozen in position

Now I am stuck. Anything I have missed? What are next steps?

Thanks for any help!

[Logan X]

Is this the thermo fuse button you were referencing?

Did you check the fuse on the fridge control circuit board (there might be two fuses)?

[foszoe]

Yes, that is the thermo fuse. I also checked the 3A fuse and it was fine, (replaced it anyway because they are cheap).

I then pulled the connector P1 and checked for voltage between connector 4 and 5. There was none. I am thinking I somehow fried the lower board while connecting and disconnecting the batteries or swapping out fuses in the power center. Not sure how I did it though.

[Customer1]

Did you reverse polarity when changing the battery? It's a common mistake.

[foszoe]

none of the reverse polarity protection fuses blew.

[ChuckS]

Why would dealer have battery charger hooked up to batteries with rig connected to 120 shore power? The converter would... if working provide all DC power to RV as well as charge the batteries.

The thermal fuse you show is for power to heater elements when running fridge on shore power in AC mode

[ChuckS]

You’ve got other issues starting with why batteries are dead again. I’d verify converter is working properly first and then move to fridge issue.

There are two fuses for your fridge. One is glass 3 amp fuse and there is also a DC fuse located on the control board outside at fridge cover

[foszoe]

It was a $8 thermofuse behind the bottom of the burner stack assembly. Bypassed and have power to refrigerator. Should have one From Amazon by Friday. Good old days would have got it at RadioShack.

[Logan X]

I’m glad to hear you figured it out! Thanks for posting the result.

[FlyingAroundRV]

It was a $8 thermofuse behind the bottom of the burner stack assembly. Bypassed and have power to refrigerator. Should have one From Amazon by Friday. Good old days would have got it at RadioShack.
Can you post a pic please? Was this a different fuse from the one LoganX's post?
I was aware of the thermal cutout on the stack, but not aware of a fuse "behind the bottom of the burner stack assembly".

[chuckster57]

Can you post a pic please? Was this a different fuse from the one LoganX's post?
I was aware of the thermal cutout on the stack, but not aware of a fuse "behind the bottom of the burner stack assembly".



The one Logan X posted is part of the thermal protection. Because of problems in the past, both Norcold and Dometic refers have a “safety device” that shuts down the fridge if the chimney (stack) gets too hot. Norcold uses a different style but the idea is the same.

Dometic has a “thermal fuse” that comes from the board, to the part shown by Logan X and then back to the board. It is encased in a sheath and is held in place behind the chimney by a clip.

https://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view;_ylt=Awr9JhW0LhRdvb0AIDCInIlQ;_ylu=X3oDMTIyM2 Z2aDdpBHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDaW1nBG9pZANmNjhmZDNhOTYwYzFh NDBmM2EwYzZjOTBiNjcxYjYzMQRncG9zAzEEaXQDYmluZw--?back=https%3A%2F%2Fimages.search.yahoo.com%2Fsear ch%2Fimages%3Fp%3Ddometic%2Bthermal%2Bfuse%26fr%3D iphone%26fr2%3Dpiv-web%26tab%3Dorganic%26ri%3D1&w=300&h=300&imgurl=images.dyersonline.com%2Fcatalog%2Fproduct% 2Fcache%2F1%2Fimage%2F300x%2Fa1eed0813d52712d6e948 f99c3696e26%2Fd%2Fo%2Fdometic_refrigerator_thermal _fuse_assembly_7-9cf-89771-2.jpg&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dyersonline.com%2Fdometic-refrigerator-thermal-fuse-assembly-7-9cf.html&size=13.4KB&name=Dometic+Refrigerator+Thermal+Fuse&p=dometic+thermal+fuse&oid=f68fd3a960c1a40f3a0c6c90b671b631&fr2=piv-web&fr=iphone&tt=Dometic+Refrigerator+Thermal+Fuse&b=0&ni=21&no=1&ts=&tab=organic&sigr=12ghfb08m&sigb=13b6pqbgr&sigi=14rmr7pqt&sigt=111uj7cad&sign=111uj7cad&.crumb=lWrgmLtSc8x&fr=iphone&fr2=piv-web

[Logan X]

That is good information, thank you chuckster.

[FlyingAroundRV]

The one Logan X posted is part of the thermal protection. Because of problems in the past, both Norcold and Dometic refers have a “safety device” that shuts down the fridge if the chimney (stack) gets too hot. Norcold uses a different style but the idea is the same.

Dometic has a “thermal fuse” that comes from the board, to the part shown by Logan X and then back to the board. It is encased in a sheath and is held in place behind the chimney by a clip.

https://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view;_ylt=Awr9JhW0LhRdvb0AIDCInIlQ;_ylu=X3oDMTIyM2 Z2aDdpBHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDaW1nBG9pZANmNjhmZDNhOTYwYzFh NDBmM2EwYzZjOTBiNjcxYjYzMQRncG9zAzEEaXQDYmluZw--?back=https%3A%2F%2Fimages.search.yahoo.com%2Fsear ch%2Fimages%3Fp%3Ddometic%2Bthermal%2Bfuse%26fr%3D iphone%26fr2%3Dpiv-web%26tab%3Dorganic%26ri%3D1&w=300&h=300&imgurl=images.dyersonline.com%2Fcatalog%2Fproduct% 2Fcache%2F1%2Fimage%2F300x%2Fa1eed0813d52712d6e948 f99c3696e26%2Fd%2Fo%2Fdometic_refrigerator_thermal _fuse_assembly_7-9cf-89771-2.jpg&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dyersonline.com%2Fdometic-refrigerator-thermal-fuse-assembly-7-9cf.html&size=13.4KB&name=Dometic+Refrigerator+Thermal+Fuse&p=dometic+thermal+fuse&oid=f68fd3a960c1a40f3a0c6c90b671b631&fr2=piv-web&fr=iphone&tt=Dometic+Refrigerator+Thermal+Fuse&b=0&ni=21&no=1&ts=&tab=organic&sigr=12ghfb08m&sigb=13b6pqbgr&sigi=14rmr7pqt&sigt=111uj7cad&sign=111uj7cad&.crumb=lWrgmLtSc8x&fr=iphone&fr2=piv-web
Thanks Chuckster. I have a Dometic fridge. I'll have a look for that now that I know what to look for.

[foszoe]

Can you post a pic please? Was this a different fuse from the one LoganX's post?
I was aware of the thermal cutout on the stack, but not aware of a fuse "behind the bottom of the burner stack assembly".


Just got back in town with some time to reply!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002FRCD6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That is what it was. Replaced it and it worked fine! Power runs from the junction to the resettable fuse on the stack to this thermal fuse which is a one shot operation then back to J4 on the control board.