Battery Issue

[Woogiebear]

Hey all!
Love this forum for all the information and tips!! I have a battery issue that's driving me nuts. I can pretty much fix everything else on the camper but electrical is not my strong suit. We go camping where there are no hookups. My battery dies in a day and I have to hook it up to a generator to charge it u. The only thing running is the refrigerator (propane) and and occasional light or two (LED) now and then. The only other things I see running are the clock on the radio, I have the lights tuned off on that, and the CO detector.
Here is the info:
Passport 217exp
Battery = Interstate 31 MHD 950 CCA (cold cranking amps) 195 reserve capacity amps
Had the battery tested at the rv dealer and they said it was perfect.
I hooked up a meter and tested it for a parasitic draw. With everything off (minus radio power and CO detector) it was about .17 amps.

We go with my cousin and their battery lasts a week with zero problem. They run their water pump, fridge, lights etc and maybe goes to a half.

I want to upgrade to two golf cart batteries but need to know if there is an issue first. Is this the wrong battery for the job? The rv place who sold it to me said it should last a real long time.

Any other thoughts?
Thanks everyone!

[ctbruce]

This looks to me like a car battery designed to give short spurts of power to start a vehicle. JMHO, but you need a deep cycle battery to accomplish what you want to do. I could be totally wrong on this, but I believe this is your issue.

[tommy_z]

You have a big battery, the deep cycle version only offers a little more RC. Two 6V batteries will get you more though.

I went through similar issues and did two things that helped a lot. I changed all my light bulbs to LED - everywhere. The fridge has a heat strip around the doors, and it pulls constant 12V power even when running on propane. I added an inline switch to toggle this off when boondocking. I live with the little bit of condensation that results. I can go more than a day now, and even through the night running the furnace.

[chuckster57]

This looks to me like a car battery designed to give short spurts of power to start a vehicle. JMHO, but you need a deep cycle battery to accomplish what you want to do. I could be totally wrong on this, but I believe this is your issue.
Yup! get a deep cycle battery and you should do a whole lot better. a pair of GC 6V batteries will last longer than a single 12V battery. Just make sure to hook up the battery(s) correctly.

[Woogiebear]

Hmmmmm...... So this battery isn’t a deep cycle? (Sorry, prettt ignorant about batteries but I’m learning). I thought it was a regular battery because I didn’t see anything about amp hours. But the rv guy told me this would work fine.

[Woogiebear]

Thanks! I already replaced everything with leds. I also got some really powerful led battery operated lights that work great! They have a remote switch and are just as bright as using the camper inside lights. Mostly we don’t even use the lights inside the camper. How did you hook up the switch for the fridge heater strip?

[chuckster57]

Hmmmmm...... But the rv guy told me this would work fine.

Not all RV guys are created equal. What brand and model refer do you have?

[Woogiebear]

A Dometic model DM2652LBX

[chuckster57]

https://www.rvtravel.com/reduce-unwanted-power-draw-on-your-dometic-rv-refrigerator/

Not affiliated with link provided.

[Woogiebear]

Thanks! I’ll
Check out the fridge. Anything that saves amps is great

[thefulminator]

How old is the battery? Was it used for another purpose prior to installing it in the trailer?

One thing to try is when you aren't camping, charge it fully and then disconnect it from the trailer. Wait a day or two and reconnect it. If it still has a good charge then there is a draw from the trailer. If it has a weak charge then the battery is the problem.

If the problem was a draw from the trailer, try and hunt it down when you are not camping. You won't be using the refrigerator, heat or water pump so you can rule those out. Start looking at everything else that uses power.

[Woogiebear]

How old is the battery? Was it used for another purpose prior to installing it in the trailer?

One thing to try is when you aren't camping, charge it fully and then disconnect it from the trailer. Wait a day or two and reconnect it. If it still has a good charge then there is a draw from the trailer. If it has a weak charge then the battery is the problem.

If the problem was a draw from the trailer, try and hunt it down when you are not camping. You won't be using the refrigerator, heat or water pump so you can rule those out. Start looking at everything else that uses power.

Yup. Tried that. Had the battery off for about 3 days with no real change at all. Battery tested good. With everything off in the camper it draws very very little. I'm thinking I have the wrong type of battery.

[Woogiebear]

Ok, first off thanks everyone for all the great tips and feedback. I did some more research on the battery and found that it's a high cycle battery, not a deep cycle. It's meant to deliver a high burst of energy quick to start up an engine. Not really meant for rv application. Live and learn I guess. I'v been looking at the golf cart batteries. I found a Deka that has 210 amp hours. Of course i'll get 2 of them and hook them up to make 12 volts. Now, this wont give me 420 amp hours right? 210 will be more than enough if I pretty much just run the fridge and an occasional light i'm guessing. Thanks again for all the feedback! I'm def learning as I go!

[Fishsizzle]

Ok, first off thanks everyone for all the great tips and feedback. I did some more research on the battery and found that it's a high cycle battery, not a deep cycle. It's meant to deliver a high burst of energy quick to start up an engine. Not really meant for rv application. Live and learn I guess. I'v been looking at the golf cart batteries. I found a Deka that has 210 amp hours. Of course i'll get 2 of them and hook them up to make 12 volts. Now, this wont give me 420 amp hours right? 210 will be more than enough if I pretty much just run the fridge and an occasional light i'm guessing. Thanks again for all the feedback! I'm def learning as I go!

2 6 volts put together do not double the amp hours they just make a 12 volt battery. (+ to -)

2 12 volt wired together a still kept at 12 volts (+ to + and - to -) will double the Amps.

Lots of good info on battery set ups and how to wire (pictures) if you google

[Logan X]

Yes, 210 amps is plenty of power in the battery bank. I have 2 6v golf cart batteries and I can run the lights, water pump etc, and a TV/Apple TV, for four hours and it only depletes my batteries 3%. If I wasn’t running the TV, it would hardly deplete the batteries at all.

You don’t want to run your batteries below 50%, it will damage them.

[Ccsluke]

Somewhat concerned about the recommendation of 6v batteries.
If you have room for two batteries, go with deep cycle 12 volt and parallel them. (Connect positive to positive and negative to negative). Then you will truly have double battery power. With 6v batteries you would have to take two batteries and hook them up in series (positive from one battery to negative of the other battery, then your 12 volts would connect to the other two + & - terminals. but when you do this, you’re gaining voltage, not power. Two 6 volt batteries have to wired in series in order to give you the 12 volts needed. BEST OPTION, HANDS DOWN, IS TWO 12volt batteries.

[NH_Bulldog]

I have twin Interstate 27 series RV/Marine Deep Cycle batteries and have done 4 days off grid and still remained above 50%.

[Logan X]

Somewhat concerned about the recommendation of 6v batteries.
If you have room for two batteries, go with deep cycle 12 volt and parallel them. (Connect positive to positive and negative to negative). Then you will truly have double battery power. With 6v batteries you would have to take two batteries and hook them up in series (positive from one battery to negative of the other battery, then your 12 volts would connect to the other two + & - terminals. but when you do this, you’re gaining voltage, not power. Two 6 volt batteries have to wired in series in order to give you the 12 volts needed. BEST OPTION, HANDS DOWN, IS TWO 12volt batteries.

I think the reason a lot of people opt for 6v batteries is because the generally have more amp hours and are better at storing energy. From what I’ve seen anyway, most 12v “deep cycle” batteries are actually hybrid marine batteries that also are starting batteries.

The 12v hybrid batteries that I’ve seen have maybe a max of 100 amp hours (more like 80 amp hours). If you put two of those together in parallel you get 200 amp hours (or more like 160 amp hours.)

My 6v batteries have 240 amp hours each so joined in series they maintain the 240 amp hours.

I have heard of true deep cycle 12v batteries but I have never seen one and I think they are hard to find.

If you can find true deep cycle 12v batteries that provide more amp hours then that would be great! The goal is having more usable amp hours.

Obviously, this is just my opinion, YMMV.

Edit-I am only referring to flooded lead acid batteries, not AGM batteries or lithium.

[MarkEHansen]

Somewhat concerned about the recommendation of 6v batteries.
If you have room for two batteries, go with deep cycle 12 volt and parallel them. (Connect positive to positive and negative to negative). Then you will truly have double battery power. With 6v batteries you would have to take two batteries and hook them up in series (positive from one battery to negative of the other battery, then your 12 volts would connect to the other two + & - terminals. but when you do this, you’re gaining voltage, not power. Two 6 volt batteries have to wired in series in order to give you the 12 volts needed. BEST OPTION, HANDS DOWN, IS TWO 12volt batteries.


Hands down? Have you looked at the amp/hour capacity of real deep cycle 6v batteries versus deep cycle 12 batteries? Have a look - I think you'll be surprised.

[bbells]

Any battery that has cca on it is not a real deep cycle battery. Battery class is meaningless. The battery needs to say something like 160ah. If your 12v battery weighs less than 100 pounds it isn't a real deep cycle battery. Most dealers give cheap marine starting batteries with campers that only last a year or two if used. Most are only 65ah when new. Probably 40-50ah after 6 months to a year. That means you only have enough power to run 480 watts of power before the battery is dead, and you should only use half of that. The battery that came with my ice fishing house only lasts 12 hours before the voltage goes to the point of possible battery damage. And I have all led lights, etc. IMHO, go to costco or batteries plus and get either 2 6v golf cart batteries wired in series or 1 12v golf cart battery. the 6v are more attractive because you can lift them easier. Get the highest ah you can afford. Then, add a 200w solar panel with a $10 controller to either your roof or on an easy to make ground frame. PVC works great. That would also make it so you would no longer need to plug the camper in at home, too. It is a cheap investment.

[sonofcy]

Hmmmmm...... So this battery isn’t a deep cycle? (Sorry, prettt ignorant about batteries but I’m learning). I thought it was a regular battery because I didn’t see anything about amp hours. But the rv guy told me this would work fine.
Sad but true, just because it says deep cycle doesn't mean it really is. If it also says anything about cranking amps, marine cranking amps, reserve something then it's NOT a true deep cycle. A true deep cycle will ONLY state amp hours. Also if it's lead acid, you should only use about 1/2 of it's amp hours. Two American made brands are Trojan and Crown. I use 2 Trojan T105's that last me 6 hours (1/3 used) in a power failure last winter and we have a residential fridge but it's max draw is only 480 watts.

[xrated]

Somewhat concerned about the recommendation of 6v batteries.
If you have room for two batteries, go with deep cycle 12 volt and parallel them. (Connect positive to positive and negative to negative). Then you will truly have double battery power. With 6v batteries you would have to take two batteries and hook them up in series (positive from one battery to negative of the other battery, then your 12 volts would connect to the other two + & - terminals. but when you do this, you’re gaining voltage, not power. Two 6 volt batteries have to wired in series in order to give you the 12 volts needed. BEST OPTION, HANDS DOWN, IS TWO 12volt batteries.

The highlighted part above ^^^^ is true......But.....if they only provide less than 100 amps each (and they usually do), then you still don't have as much amp hours as two 6V GC batteries hooked in series for the 12V. My Trojan T105s are rated at 225 AH.

[sonofcy]

Somewhat concerned about the recommendation of 6v batteries.
If you have room for two batteries, go with deep cycle 12 volt and parallel them. (Connect positive to positive and negative to negative). Then you will truly have double battery power. With 6v batteries you would have to take two batteries and hook them up in series (positive from one battery to negative of the other battery, then your 12 volts would connect to the other two + & - terminals. but when you do this, you’re gaining voltage, not power. Two 6 volt batteries have to wired in series in order to give you the 12 volts needed. BEST OPTION, HANDS DOWN, IS TWO 12volt batteries.
The 2 6V GC batteries are better. They will provide 225AH (112 usable max). I replaced 2 12V 75(37 usable) AH that came with the coach for a gain of 307%.
The 6V and 12V batteries are about the same physical size so the plates in the 6V are about double the size. Example, the Trojan 12V largest size at 66lbs is 130AH therefore two in parallel will give you 260AH vs the 225AH of the pair of 6V GC batteries. Keep in mind the 50% draw down rule and it's really 130 vs 112.5 or 17.5 AH for $100 more in cost? I don't know all the technical details but there must be a reason the majority of RV solar systems use T105's. It might be something to do with charging parameters or something else.

[MarkEHansen]

I took a quick look at the 12V battery (although it wasn't specified, I assume you're talking about the Trojan SC S225). It's 130AH at a 20-hour rate. This means that with two 12v batteries, you would get 260 AH. While with two 6V (Duracell SLI6V225S) you would get a total of 250AH at a 20-hour rate.

Both batteries cost about the same.

Although the 12v have the edge in power (10 additional AH), I think the scales still lean toward the 6V batteries, as with their heavier plates, they will take more charge/discharge cycles and provide that power longer than their 12v counterparts.

YMMV.

[sonofcy]

Consider the life of a golf cart battery, those batteries have to be tough both mechanically and electrically. Consider that there are half the plates in roughly the same enclosure and same weight. IIRC there is 4 lbs difference between 1 6V and a 12V (62 vs 66)

[Cfilipiak]

I had a similar issues when I purchased a new travel trailer that had two 12v batteries. I replaced them with two 6v Trojan 125+ Batteries and I have not had any problem since.

[jdarwin]

https://www.interstatebatteries.com/products/31-mhd


According to Interstate Batteries web site, this battery is for large trucks and RVs used to start engines.

[travelin texans]

https://www.interstatebatteries.com/products/31-mhd


According to Interstate Batteries web site, this battery is for large trucks and RVs used to start engines.

That is definitely NOT the battery you need for a rv house battery, you have absolutely no need for all the "cranking amps". Would be great for your tow vehicle.
As said a true rv deep cycle battery will list amp hours not cranking amps.

[JRTJH]

Maybe think about it this way:

Electron flow from a battery is what produces "amps". Whether they are cranking amps or discharge amps.....

Electrons flow from the "SURFACE" of the lead plates. To get "high amps" the manufacturers use numerous thin plates with holes drilled in them (to increase surface area). This makes the battery more "fragile" but allows maximum electron flow on demand. This makes the battery prone to damage when deeply discharged and makes it not a "good" deep cycle type battery.

Golf Cart batteries have no need to "produce high amps". The plates are thicker, fewer in number and don't have "modifications to increase surface area" (no holes drilled in them). That makes the battery more heavy duty, able to survive deeper discharge cycles without damage, less potential to "sulfate" (build up a coating on the lead surface that prevents electrons from attaching)).

In other words, it's sort of like comparing a sports car with a diesel tractor. One will "go fast" and the other will "pull your sports car to hell and back". Same with "high cranking amp batteries" and "deep cycle batteries".

[jimborokz]

Maybe think about it this way:

Electron flow from a battery is what produces "amps". Whether they are cranking amps or discharge amps.....

Electrons flow from the "SURFACE" of the lead plates. To get "high amps" the manufacturers use numerous thin plates with holes drilled in them (to increase surface area). This makes the battery more "fragile" but allows maximum electron flow on demand. This makes the battery prone to damage when deeply discharged and makes it not a "good" deep cycle type battery.

Golf Cart batteries have no need to "produce high amps". The plates are thicker, fewer in number and don't have "modifications to increase surface area" (no holes drilled in them). That makes the battery more heavy duty, able to survive deeper discharge cycles without damage, less potential to "sulfate" (build up a coating on the lead surface that prevents electrons from attaching)).

In other words, it's sort of like comparing a sports car with a diesel tractor. One will "go fast" and the other will "pull your sports car to hell and back". Same with "high cranking amp batteries" and "deep cycle batteries".
The last paragraph is the perfect analogy.;)