Slideout power

[SAM101814]

Hi all,

I could really use some help. I'm new to RVing and the wife and I just purchased our first used Keystone travel trailer. We purchased the 2008 Keystone Cougar 29bhs model. The RV is on a permanent site that provides30 amp service. Everything was working as it should when we purchased it. Just recently, the slideout lights no longer work. I have one outlet on the slideout and it works. However, none of the lights don't and the slideout doesn't retract. All the other lights and outlets work fine. I purchased a battery tester, turned off the shoreline power and tested the battery. The battery tested fine also. I looked at the fuses in the RV and didn't see any that were bad and none of the breakers were tripped. In addition, none of the GFCI outlets were tripped. Please help me out and tell me where else I could look or test. Any pics, videos, or links to help me locate the issue would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

[GHen]

Do the lights go to a switch? If so pull the switch and check the power on both sides of the switch, on and off.

[GHen]

Do the same with your slide out switch, if you don’t have power there, you problem is between the switch and the converter. Check your 12v fuses again, sometimes it hard to see the bad one.

[SAM101814]

No...it's one of those lights with the small bulbs on both sides and the black toggle switch in the middle.

[SAM101814]

Somewhere I saw there is a fuse or breaker by the battery that can be replaced or reset. By any chance, can someone post a picture of where that might be or look like?

[SAM101814]

Do the same with your slide out switch, if you don’t have power there, you problem is between the switch and the converter. Check your 12v fuses again, sometimes it hard to see the bad one.
Which are the 12 v fuses?

[Canonman]

You're looking for your "power center" most look like pic below. Inside will be the Fuse panel. All fuses are 12v. Not likely the slide and light are on the same fuse.

[SAM101814]

Yes, I looked in the power center. Non of the breakers were tripped. I put a test light on all the fuses and nothing lit up. However, the AC, furnace, and everything else works fine including all the other lights. Is the slide out the only thing on the fuse panel? Every thing works except the power slide out and the overhead lights on the slide out. Is there a fuse or breaker in front some where by the battery that I should check? Also, why is my test light not lighting up on the fuses on the power center?

[JRTJH]

There are two (maybe three) mini DC breakers mounted on the trailer bulkhead where the A-frame enters the trailer front wall. They will look similar to this photo, may or may not have a plastic cover on them. I'd suspect that one is a 30 amp and likely powers/protects the slide motor. The other may be a 30, 40 or 50 amp, depending on the trailer and what equipment is installed.

[sourdough]

Sam, don't know if you know this but you have 2 sources of electrical power in your RV - 12vdc and 120vac. The things you are describing as not working are 12vdc. Sounds like your 120vac things are working so concentrate on the 12vdc source/routing. You said you used a "tester" and nothing on the "fuse" panel had power; you are using a 12vdc tester/light?? My preference is always a multimeter for anything involved.

[SAM101814]

There are two (maybe three) mini DC breakers mounted on the trailer bulkhead where the A-frame enters the trailer front wall. They will look similar to this photo, may or may not have a plastic cover on them. I'd suspect that one is a 30 amp and likely powers/protects the slide motor. The other may be a 30, 40 or 50 amp, depending on the trailer and what equipment is installed.

JRTJH, is there a fuse inside? How is that reset or do you have to replace the whole thing?

[JRTJH]

Sam,

It's a "spring loaded auto reset circuit breaker (no fuse inside). If it fails, pull it out, throw it away and replace with a "like kind". They are NOTORIOUS for failing, usually at the absolute worst time. I always keep a couple of spares around, just in case.

[SAM101814]

Iwas finally able to get some pics of whats on the tongue (bulkhead) of my camper (shown). As you can see the relay is pretty rusty. I should say my slideout motor is working now. However, the lights on my slideout are still not working. Put the test light on all the fuses and all are good. Will the lights work if I replace this relay?

[FlyingAroundRV]

Since the lights and the slideout motor all run on 12V, is the ground connection to the slide OK?

[SAM101814]

Since the lights and the slideout motor all run on 12V, is the ground connection to the slide OK?

Yes...the ground looks ok and is tight. The only light that don't work are on the slideout. All the other lights in the camper are working. I replaced the bulbs with new ones but they still don't work. Could that relay switch up by the battery be bad? If that's the case, wouldnt all the lights in the camper not work?

[JRTJH]

This is "theory" not "fact," so don't rely on it as "absolutely true".....

If the slide motor is working, chances are that the "mini-breaker" on the bulkhead is good. In other words, if power is getting through it for the slide motor, then that same power is likely to be getting through it for the lights. So, you'll need to keep looking beyond the "mini-breaker". My next suspect area would be the slide wiring. Under the slide, either on the front edge or the rear edge, you'll find a spring and a couple of wires the exit the trailer floor and loop around to enter the slide sidewall (under the floor). The loop is there to allow the wires to flex/extend so they can remain attached when the slide is extended and when it is retracted. The spring (in some there's a plastic folding sheath) keeps the wires from drooping down and getting caught by something under the trailer.

If there's power getting through the mini-breaker, crawl under the slide, locate those wires and see if they are intact. REMEMBER !!!!! If you have a 120VAC outlet in the slide, there's both 120VAC and 12VDC in that wire loom, so don't go pulling or poking with shore power connected, the lights you "light up" may be your own !!!!!

Inside the trailer, usually in a cabinet base or in a furniture base (in the trailer, not the slide) you'll find a flat connector that attaches the slide wiring to the main trailer wiring. Sometimes that connector will disconnect or corrode and stop making a good connection, so along with checking the underside wiring, also snoop around inside the trailer where that wire loop comes through the floor to be sure that it's connected.

If those don't work, then it'll be time to identify where power leaves the trailer "main frame" and goes to the slide. You'll need to do some sleuthing to find that wire and verify that there's power. Remember, it'll probably have AC and DC voltage on it so be careful !!!!!

[bbells]

You need a vom. A cheap volt-ohm multimeter will zero you in on the problem really fast. Start at the battery and move out. Your battery should be 13.8v when the camper is plugged in. If it is any lower than 12v even when not plugged in you have a battery or charging problem. Run a jumper wire across that rusted circuit breaker and see if everything works. Go to the silde out motor and check for voltage. It should be the same as the battery when the trailer is plugged in. Check all the fuses with the ohm meter after unplugging them from the board. It is the only way to test them. Make sure they are all plugged in between the contacts and not missing them on one side. Turn on all your lights, and pull the fuses out one at a time when testing and see what goes off. If you find a fuse or fuses that do not have an obvious affect, one of those circuits may be the problem. The slideout fuse should be a high amperage one. Don't just look at the ground. Test it with an ohm meter. Looks are always deceiving. IMHO: You probably have 2 problems. 1) The switch or breaker for the slideout. 2) Bad switch or fuse for the lights.

[sonofcy]

Iwas finally able to get some pics of whats on the tongue (bulkhead) of my camper (shown). As you can see the relay is pretty rusty. I should say my slideout motor is working now. However, the lights on my slideout are still not working. Put the test light on all the fuses and all are good. Will the lights work if I replace this relay?
That's the breaker. Just looking at it I would replace the breaker, redo the wiring terminals and find a weatherproof box to mount it all in. The slides will only operate from a well charged genuine deep discharge battery like a golf cart battery Trojan T105. Get two cuz they are 6 volts.

[SAM101814]

Ok...this is getting more weird by the day. I bought the following 50 amp resettable circuit breaker off amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IMJNIZ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I didn't even install it yet and all of a sudden the slideout power works. However, the lights on the slideout still don't work. Should I still replace that rusty circuit breaker with the new one I just purchased above or is the light issue something else? I have a Sperry DM-350A multi-meter and I'm going to give it a shot but I have to say, I'm not a pro at using it.

Thank you all again for helping solve this mystery.

[sonofcy]

That is NOT the auto-reset type, that one you need to reset manually. What lights on slideout? If they are like mine, they are an entirely different circuit. They will have a switch either on the wall or on the light. Are all other DC loads working? Do you know how to test a DC fuse (black probe on ground, red probe to first one fuse contact then the other, both should indicate 12V roughly)

[hankpage]

If you are talking about the sconce type lamp with two bulbs and a push-button switch .... remove the fixture from the wall and check for power. (12v dc) I had to replace that switch on my '07. I used an automotive toggle switch. Your fuse panel SHOULD have small red led lights to indicate a blown fuse. Accent on should on an '08 trailer and is not a sure thing but a place to start. Lack of power to slide motor would be another problem and since it is now working it may be an auto-reset breaker that was stuck in the open position.

Oh, and since you have a replacement for the fuse on the frame, replace it and as mentioned clean up and put new terminal ends on the wires. Smear (technical term) some di-lectric grease on it so you don't get the rust and corrosion like on the old one.

[SAM101814]

The lights I have are similar to these: https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Lighting/Optronics/RVIL22.html?feed=npn&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9JzoBRDjARIsAGcdIDWylS9gpv8G9bM0dnC6 ubr817IUiA4iWA-54wHZAEkqU_DrF8hvDEoaAiVJEALw_wcB

[SAM101814]

Thanks all...going to replace the breaker with the one I have tonight...I'll update this thread with the results.

[FlyingAroundRV]

Sam:
Using a VOM is pretty straightforward. There are three types of measurements a VOM can make (some can only make two) 1.Volts, 2.Ohms (resistance) and 3. Amps (current).


For volts, you generally select the type of volts (AC or DC) and a voltage range, on a knob or rotary switch selector. For AC volts, the selection will generally show a ~ symbol. The other volts ranges are usually DC.


For resistance (Ohms) often you select an expected resistance range. When doing continuity checks almost any range will do and you're looking for the lowest reading. The lower the better here. WARNING: Don't try to read resistance on any powered circuit. To do so will damage the VOM. Always remove the power from anything you want to test resistance or continuity on. Best is to have whatever you're testing completely disconnected, both ends if possible (but one end will do).


For current, the meter has to be in the circuit. That is you have to make a deliberate break in the circuit and use the meter to bridge that break.


The key thing with VOMs is only use the selected range for the type of measurement you're doing. To do otherwise risks damage to the meter and possibly to yourself and possibly the item being tested. Be particularly careful around AC voltages.


To test a fuse, it's easiest to remove the fuse from its holder and use the Ohms range to read across the fuse (not the holder). Again here, the lower reading is better although a fuse will likely only give you some resistance reading (good) or something like "0L" which is a blown fuse.


Electrical circuits are simple at their heart. The electricity starts at a source (AC active or battery +), then goes through some type of switch then through some kind of device, then returns to the source (AC Neutral or Battery - ).



The types of things that go wrong are:
Open circuits: A break in a wire somewhere along the path. (A faulty switch will do this too).

Short circuits: The power from the source goes directly back to the source without going through the switch and device first. This is when a bare power wire touches a bare return wire, or the frame which is connected to the return to the source (ground).

Device failure: The thing that's being powered needs to be replaced or repaired (if you can).



A switch is just a device for creating a controllable open circuit.


That's pretty much it. From that you can diagnose just about anything with a bit of logical thinking and a meter and a bit of snooping around the wiring.


Here's a tip: When you're snooping around the wiring of something, I find it helps to draw the circuit on a piece of paper for working out how it works and for later reference.