slider screwed up

[Randallf]

Has anybody had trouble with a Pullrite slider hitch?
My Fifthwheel somehow got disconnected when i went over a curb and my fithwheel ended up on my tail gate and left fender.
What could have happened?
This was our first outing since i purchased it. (Oh i did pull it to the rv delear for unwinterizing) . It pulled the rv excellent.
I was so upset over this.
Truck still in the shop, and nothing happened to the rv that i can tell.:ermm:
:banghead::banghead:

randallf

[mohead1]

Didnt have the jaws locked, or loaded too high on the hitch and the pin was above the jaws.

[JRTJH]

Pending a broken or malfunctioning hitch, mohead1 has listed the two probable causes. I'd say more people fail to lock the hitch than "high hitch". I have NO documentation to support that, it's just the results of what I read from posts by other fifth wheel owners.

At times, we all "skip a step" or "rush through a check" and most times, things are OK, so no harm done. But, there's always that "one time when it isn't OK" that comes back to bite us or to crush our tailgate (literally and figuratively)....

I'd urge you to check your hitch for proper operation, make sure there's no damaged or worn parts and call your insurance company.

[Fishsizzle]

Sure sorry! It’s one of my biggest fears. I’m always dropping the tail gate a looking to make sure it’s still latched every time I stop.

[Phil Saran]

Sorry to hear about the damage to your truck.

But I have to ask, why take it into the dealer to de-winterize your RV?

All I do is hook up water turn on each water valve and run the water through
until no pink comes out of the faucet. If you want to go a little farther add
water and a cup of bleach to the fresh water tank, take a drive around the
block and then drain the tank (valve is under the water tank) if still has bleach
taste after draining add just fresh water and drain again then re-add water again.

[Tom N OH]

Seeing as how the disconnect happened after driving over a curb, the most likely culprit is a "high hitch" condition, where the king pin was on top of the 5th wheel jaws. Always look to be sure there is no daylight visible between the top of the 5th wheel & the bottom of the pin box after hooking up. Also look in the "throat" of the 5th wheel to be sure the jaws are fully locked around the king pin.

[Fishsizzle]

Seeing as how the disconnect happened after driving over a curb, the most likely culprit is a "high hitch" condition, where the king pin was on top of the 5th wheel jaws. Always look to be sure there is no daylight visible between the top of the 5th wheel & the bottom of the pin box after hooking up. Also look in the "throat" of the 5th wheel to be sure the jaws are fully locked around the king pin.

One of the main reasons I bought a Demco, wrap around jaws. I always know if it’s locked.

[1st Chev Diesel]

I second what Fishsizzle said about Demco hitch

[bobbecky]

The Pullrite also has a full wrap around jaw mechanism. The best way to avoid a high hitch condition is to back into the pin box with the pin box low enough that the pin box ramps up on the hitch. Once you have backed in and the hitch has closed, a gentle pull forward will confirm it is hitched. When you physically check it, the release handle will be fully in and can not be pulled out unless the handle is lifted. Visually looking at the jaw wrapped around the pin is also another thing to do. Dropping the trailer on the truck is something that can be avoided by following a ridged routine, hitching and checking every time.

[Fishsizzle]

Thanks for pointing out the pullrite is wrap around, I hate to misinform.

I have same routine as you outlined.

I was parked next to a Dodge DRW at dinner 2 nights ago and it had dented tops of the bed from a 5ver Drop.

[lfd311]

As above stated. I have the Pullrite Superglide and love it. It is a full wrap-around jaw-style hitch. Best plan is to do as stated above, back into the pinbox, so it has to "ramp-up" onto the hitch. It will/should push the truck down a little or lift the trailer ever so slightly. Once this is done, hook up your cables, lift the front jacks just an inch or two off the ground (all the weight on the truck), manually set the trailer brakes in the truck and try to pull forward. This way, if the jaws aren't fully set, the trailer will come out of the hitch, but just drop an inch or two onto the ground. Not onto the bedrails/tailgate of the truck.

[fulltilt]

Hi Randallf
I have a Pullrite 18k for the past 7 years & pulled 70,000 miles including crossing the US & Canada both ways, the only thing I do "possibly" different is I lock [padlock] my release handle once locked & confirmed the jaws are wrapped around the pin.

[LewisB]

Hi Randallf
I have a Pullrite 18k for the past 7 years & pulled 70,000 miles including crossing the US & Canada both ways, the only thing I do "possibly" different is I lock [padlock] my release handle once locked & confirmed the jaws are wrapped around the pin.

We do everything previously stated - I'd like to second the need to padlock the release lever - especially if you visit truck stops. There are a lot of YouTube videos of people who walk around the truck stops and pull release levers on trucks and RV's - they think it is a funny prank!

Not so funny to the person paying for all the damage caused!
Padlock = piece of mind + it helps make you check everything

[Electribluemega]

The Pullrite also has a full wrap around jaw mechanism. The best way to avoid a high hitch condition is to back into the pin box with the pin box low enough that the pin box ramps up on the hitch. Once you have backed in and the hitch has closed, a gentle pull forward will confirm it is hitched. When you physically check it, the release handle will be fully in and can not be pulled out unless the handle is lifted. Visually looking at the jaw wrapped around the pin is also another thing to do. Dropping the trailer on the truck is something that can be avoided by following a ridged routine, hitching and checking every time.

This is exactly what I do to confirm it is locked in. Especially the visual check and slight tug with the front jacks slightly off the ground before I remove the chalks.

[CaP Beelee]

We always do a jerk test with the front jacks down to catch just in case. Beteer to jerk first than repair later. Just part of the checklist we have when hooking up.

[Fishsizzle]

We do everything previously stated - I'd like to second the need to padlock the release lever - especially if you visit truck stops. There are a lot of YouTube videos of people who walk around the truck stops and pull release levers on trucks and RV's - they think it is a funny prank!

Not so funny to the person paying for all the damage caused!
Padlock = piece of mind + it helps make you check everything


Off topic but it’s a game to pull hitch pins on guys pulling trailers. Had a friend lose his new snowmobile and trailer by a kid who pulled the pin on his drop hitch. Sled ended up twisted mess

[firestation12]

This happened to me, but for a different reason. I made a 180 degree turn in a truck stop open area. The emergency breakaway cable caught on something and pulled the trip pin during the turn. The brakes locked up and as I continued the turn, the slider tried to move forward, but the brakes kept it from doing so. The diesel drive train hardly strained as the twisting force wrenched the hitch jaws apart.

The smoking gun as to the cause was the extreme damage done to the hitch's jaws. If your hitch was not damaged, your circumstance was due to the previous comments made.

[notanlines]

I also am guessing that the pin was on top of the plate. Hitches might not be 100% fool-proof, but they are close. We've had three and they all had locking pins, levers or the like. I concur with everything that has been said so far, especially the 'ramp up' comment from Bob and the 'tug test suggested by many. Ours doesn't move until the safety pin has been dropped.