Another is my truck enough ? questions.

[SDDave]

Hi all and thanks for the add.

We just moved from a 31" bumper pull and a 2012 Ram 3500 CTD 4X4 SRW to this :

2016 F350 SD 4x4 CC 6.7L PS

Front GAWR 6k Rear GAWR 7k GVWR 11500lbs 3:55 gears (Tow package)

Total occupant and cargo load is 3544lbs Tires are rated to 3650lbs each

TV is a FW is 2019 Cougar 315RLS GVWR 12390lbs ( 11k dry)

My assumption is 2500 lbs pin weight loaded. I am going to go ahead and install an extra leaf in the rear not to raise the GVWR but to keep the sqwat , and possible sway in check. ( I am not in the airbag camp so don't try and sway me ;-) ).

That leaves 1k lbs left to load people in to the truck. After 2 adults and a teenager that leaves us with 400lbs+/-.

I'll scale to confirm but I think with this I'll be maxed out BUT barely within spec. Of course this is if we fully load the trailer.

I see someone else on this forum is towing the same setup and their real numbers work out lighter than mine do. I'm doing the math on the maximums, which I will be very aware of, when I load.

Thanks for you feedback.

[Javi]

My 12,320 lb. 333MKS is 2800+ loaded I have scaled it at 3160 one time with black tank and grey tank about half full and us loaded for a 10 day winter trip... but every bit of storage is in front of the axles... just a few small cabinets above in the rear..

[JRTJH]

Just adding two options or not adding them can make a 300+ pound difference in pin weight. If you install a stack washer/dryer in the front closet and add a second A/C to the bedroom, you'll see a significant difference in the pin whether loaded or empty.

So, the only way to know for sure what you're towing and how much it weighs is to stop by a CAT scale on the way out of town (when actually hitched and loaded as you tow), weigh the rig and you'll know what you're dealing with. Any "significant change" if you're concerned with load variances, would lead to another CAT scale visit.

I'd guess, based on your guesses, that you'll likely be OK and maybe close but just under. That's all "guesses" and not assurances. The only way to get that is the objective CAT scale ticket.

[SDDave]

Just adding two options or not adding them can make a 300+ pound difference in pin weight. If you install a stack washer/dryer in the front closet and add a second A/C to the bedroom, you'll see a significant difference in the pin whether loaded or empty.

So, the only way to know for sure what you're towing and how much it weighs is to stop by a CAT scale on the way out of town (when actually hitched and loaded as you tow), weigh the rig and you'll know what you're dealing with. Any "significant change" if you're concerned with load variances, would lead to another CAT scale visit.

I'd guess, based on your guesses, that you'll likely be OK and maybe close but just under. That's all "guesses" and not assurances. The only way to get that is the objective CAT scale ticket.

I pick up the unit Tuesday and will be heading to the scales on the way home. This will give me the opportunity to see what I am working with prior to loading so I don’t overload when I take it back to the scales

I opted to not have the extra AC or the washer dryer. Ultimately looking at clothing to add to pin weight.

I can also look at adding storage once the slides are in at the rear and over axles locations of trailer for, if I get closer than I like. We did this with our previous trailer (TT). Except we were moving the weight to the nose from the rear due to sway.

5vers are a different animal for sure.
Thanks!

[Alamen]

Just adding two options or not adding them can make a 300+ pound difference in pin weight. If you install a stack washer/dryer in the front closet and add a second A/C to the bedroom, you'll see a significant difference in the pin whether loaded or empty.

So, the only way to know for sure what you're towing and how much it weighs is to stop by a CAT scale on the way out of town (when actually hitched and loaded as you tow), weigh the rig and you'll know what you're dealing with. Any "significant change" if you're concerned with load variances, would lead to another CAT scale visit.

I'd guess, based on your guesses, that you'll likely be OK and maybe close but just under. That's all "guesses" and not assurances. The only way to get that is the objective CAT scale ticket.

John is correct, you should scale it. I would guess based on your weights that you will be near max load capacity but still under. I like to use the 20 percent of trailer weight rule to judge pin weight as it seems more legit. Our trailer is 12k dry and 14k loaded with a scaled pin weight of 3000lbs. As you can see we are at 21.5% and my wife makes sure we pack everything she lays her eyes on and I like to pack a decent amount of tools for the "uhhh ohhhh" moments. LOL>

[Don_T]

I wouldn't add anything to the suspension until you try it as is. The truck may be fine without changes. You may find it too stiff if you add additional leafs in the rear. I did on my 206 F350. The ride was killing us and the 5th wheel camper.

[Northofu1]

sometimes being proactive is costly.

[SDDave]

I wouldn't add anything to the suspension until you try it as is. The truck may be fine without changes. You may find it too stiff if you add additional leafs in the rear. I did on my 206 F350. The ride was killing us and the 5th wheel camper.

I am starting to think the same, I just went to the dealership, to measure up the pinbox and hitch. I brought my level there so I could compare Heights between the two. (I used my rotary laser to check for heights so its pretty accurate)

From the top of the hitch plate to level ground 54''.

from level ground to pinbox flat plate, 51-1/2"

I am pretty sure that the truck should settle with all of that. If it squats more than that , I would have to add a leaf at least ( which I'm not happy with).

But you are right, I not interested in the back breaker of a ride if there is no weight in the truck.....

[SDDave]

sometimes being proactive is costly.

I think its more costly to ignore the elephant in the room....

[Northofu1]

I think its more costly to ignore the elephant in the room....

True enough, but if you haven't towed it yet or camped with it, how do you know what you need?

[SDDave]

True enough, but if you haven't towed it yet or camped with it, how do you know what you need?

I come to sites like these and I ask.... and after speaking with the service manager at https://service.standens.com/.

All they do is springs, and trailer repairs I am also having them check the alignment of the trailer wheels. But, how will I know if I need the alignment?
I won't until it's checked.

The same as the suspension, maybe I won't need it but i will be getting it checked and if it does I'll have it installed. Then I'll have peace of mind which is more to me than the 1% cost of a $100k setup.

Proactive is not costly, its called preventative maintenance and we all know how these trailers and trucks get put together.

[rhagfo]

Hi all and thanks for the add.

We just moved from a 31" bumper pull and a 2012 Ram 3500 CTD 4X4 SRW to this :

2016 F350 SD 4x4 CC 6.7L PS

Front GAWR 6k Rear GAWR 7k GVWR 11500lbs 3:55 gears (Tow package)

Total occupant and cargo load is 3544lbs Tires are rated to 3650lbs each

TV is a FW is 2019 Cougar 315RLS GVWR 12390lbs ( 11k dry)

My assumption is 2500 lbs pin weight loaded. I am going to go ahead and install an extra leaf in the rear not to raise the GVWR but to keep the sqwat , and possible sway in check. ( I am not in the airbag camp so don't try and sway me ;-) ).

That leaves 1k lbs left to load people in to the truck. After 2 adults and a teenager that leaves us with 400lbs+/-.

I'll scale to confirm but I think with this I'll be maxed out BUT barely within spec. Of course this is if we fully load the trailer.

I see someone else on this forum is towing the same setup and their real numbers work out lighter than mine do. I'm doing the math on the maximums, which I will be very aware of, when I load.

Thanks for you feedback.

No way should you need to be adding springs to an F350 with a 11,500# GVWR to carry a 12,390# GVWR 5er!

I towed a 12,360# GVWR 5er with a 2001 Ram 2500 Camper and tow package, not extra springs. My pin in the end was 2,770#, oh heck yes, that 2500 was over GVWR by 1,700#, but under axle ratings.
Now I with Javi, and Xrated run with six tires under me and "Excessive Payload"

[SDDave]

I don't need to add springs to haul that weight, even though I'm only a couple hundreds lbs shy of max payload. I am considering adding 1 plural 1 leaf depending on the sag. By the time I load up the family in the truck which won't be much we'll eat into that surplus post haste. With all due respect I'm wondering if I mention airbags, instead of 1 leaf spring, that it would seem more acceptable because everyone opts for the airbags.

On another note, you sir, should go and buy a lottery ticket if you were pulling 1700lbs over GVWR and got away with it (regardless of how much room you had left on the axles). With my luck I would have not been so lucky, I'll stick to what the truck is rated for and try and color between the lines. After that its about enjoying my holiday with my family and keeping excessive sag in check.

Thanks for all the advice here I think I'm good!

[roadglide]

I think air bags are still the best way to leave and take weight off the springs . I have used the fire stone 5000 bags and now with the he 3500 I’m using air ride 5000 bags .

[JRTJH]

Everybody has an opinion, some are "on point" and some are well, "so far out there that you wonder what planet they are on"....

That said, here's mine: Ford, for years, has built their trucks with a "rake" or a lift on the rear when not loaded. That lift allows the truck to sit level when loaded to the "top of the overload bumper". Many people look at Ford trucks and "see the rake" as normal, so they assume that the truck is "bed low" when it's level....

In 1999 and the early 2000 Ford SuperDuty F250 models, that "rear lift" was a 4" block while the F350 models used a 2" block. Why? So the F250 could sit level when loaded, even though it had "weaker spring packs" than the F350.

All that to say, your truck may well "sit level" with the trailer pin, so I'd wait until you actually get the trailer, load it as it will be "normally used" and then, with that trailer weight, make any additions to the spring packs. It won't "hurt the truck" to load it without the added leaf, tow it and see how it looks/performs, then make the decision.

My guess is that once it's loaded, the overload spring is engaged, the sag that you're concerned with, likely won't be there. It's more a matter of preference than necessity as Ford does build their trucks to accept the rated load without "headlights in the sky"..... YMMV

[Ken / Claudia]

I and maybe we get used to what worked on xx truck. This is a completely different truck. Doing any changes before you really know by using the TV/RV combo what maybe needed is a waste of time and money. But, it's your money and time not mine. On my last truck, I could not imagine towing without a PYRO gauge to show turbo temps. Figured I had better get 1 installed in this truck until I read the part about why Ford put a turbo PSI gauge in it instead.
And air bags, I wanted those too, I do not need them the 1st tow proved that.

[rhagfo]

I and maybe we get used to what worked on xx truck. This is a completely different truck. Doing any changes before you really know by using the TV/RV combo what maybe needed is a waste of time and money. But, it's your money and time not mine. On my last truck, I could not imagine towing without a PYRO gauge to show turbo temps. Figured I had better get 1 installed in this truck until I read the part about why Ford put a turbo PSI gauge in it instead.
And air bags, I wanted those too, I do not need them the 1st tow proved that.

X2!

I would wait until you have hooked up and see how it sets, you might be surprised.

[Roscommon48]

you have a F350? get on with your life, that is plenty.

[SDDave]

I picked up the trailer today and I am surprised, it sits dead level ( but its also completely empty as well)
I'll load it up and see how it sits like everyone has said. In all fairness and not throwing stones, my 3500 ram sagged pretty good and pretty easy compared to this truck.

Thanks for all your advice.

[Walterthediver]

Did the ram have a cummins? If it did then you better keep if for back up, cause your going to need it.

[SDDave]

Did the ram have a cummins? If it did then you better keep if for back up, cause your going to need it.

After owning Cummins rams since 2005, the engine speaks for itself... But it was the Ram packaging that lost me.

I'll do a Cummins swap on this one day.

[travelin texans]

I picked up the trailer today and I am surprised, it sits dead level ( but its also completely empty as well)
I'll load it up and see how it sits like everyone has said. In all fairness and not throwing stones, my 3500 ram sagged pretty good and pretty easy compared to this truck.

Thanks for all your advice.
Sorry, but from the picture on my screen the truck looks like the a## is low & you say the 5er isn't loaded.
From what I've noticed it appears that all Ford's appear to have the a## droop with any type of trailer attached. Is it an illusion or actual droop?

[SDDave]

absolute illusion, I had to walk across the street to the park to get both the tv and fver in the photo. Th park is probably a good 10' higher then ground level maybe more.

I measured it to the ground and there isn't an 1/8" difference between front and back.
If there was I would be posting how I added a leaf to the truck when it was in getting the hitch installed.

[CaptnJohn]

I tow a little heavier with a 16 F350. When hitched the truck drops to level. No springs or bags added.

[Exsquid32]

I tow with a 1999 F250 7.3 2 wheel drive. My 5th wheel is a 2015 Cougar 337FLS. We went from Ohio to Myrtle Beach over the WV mountains with no problem.

[Fishsizzle]

Did the ram have a cummins? If it did then you better keep if for back up, cause your going to need it.

:horse::horse::horse::horse::horse::horse:

[Logan X]

:horse::horse::horse::horse::horse::horse:

^^^^^^^^^this is funny :lol:

[Fishsizzle]

^^^^^^^^^this is funny :lol:

Back in the day, yes, 6.0, 6.4 powerstroke had issues and de-stroking was a good alternative. But today the 6.7 is a great engine. It’s proven itself. Yet anytime someone gets rid of a Dodge it’s like they sacrificed their first born.

The 6.7 Cummins has issues, heck they all do. But it’s no longer needed to yard out an engine and stick a 12V in everything. Or even the vintage 00’s 24 valve. Yes they are good motors, but here we all are 15+ years later.

Ford makes a good diesel, Chevy makes and good diesel and Fiat buys a good diesel. They all work great for a vast majority of us that pull.

So it’s like beating a dead horse, to say pull out your perfectly good engine for a vintage engine that won’t meet today’s emissions.

[rhagfo]

After owning Cummins rams since 2005, the engine speaks for itself... But it was the Ram packaging that lost me.

I'll do a Cummins swap on this one day.

I have found this statement many times from those who don't consider a Ram, or switch to a Ford or GM from a Ram. I was a Ford man for 42 years, about 17 years of age to 59, I switched to Ram CTD and never looked back. the seats in my last two Ford F250's were worn out at 140,000 miles.
This is the seat in my old Ram at 314,000 miles. I did have the side seam repaired at about 280,000 miles. The surface is still in great shape.

https://i.imgur.com/WsiSf8E.jpg


What was was worn out in the interior was the drivers seat belt. It was a somewhat easy process to replace, although I did need to remove the seatback material to replace.

https://i.imgur.com/Pk3tbVB.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/KGKF9rg.jpg

[jsmith948]

Ford makes a good diesel, Chevy makes and good diesel and Fiat buys a good diesel. They all work great for a vast majority of us that pull.

So it’s like beating a dead horse, to say pull out your perfectly good engine for a vintage engine that won’t meet today’s emissions.

I thought Chevy (aka GMC) bought the Duramax diesels from a Japanese outfit known as Izusu??

[Fishsizzle]

I thought Chevy (aka GMC) bought the Duramax diesels from a Japanese outfit known as Izusu??

They did, but I think that changed awhile back and they took over engine building. Let me look.

[Fishsizzle]

Per the Wick:


Duramax V8 engine
The Duramax is a General Motors V8 diesel engine family for trucks. The 6.6-liter Duramax is produced by DMAX, a joint venture between GM and Isuzu in Moraine, Ohio. The Duramax block and heads are poured at The Defiance GM Powertrain foundry in Defiance, Ohio. This engine was initially installed in 2001 Chevrolet and GMC trucks, and has been an option since then in pickups, vans, and medium-duty trucks. In 2006, production at Moraine was reportedly limited to approximately 200,000 engines per year. On May 9, 2007, DMAX announced the production of the 1,000,000th Duramax V-8 diesel at its Moraine facility.

[jsmith948]

Per the Wick:


Duramax V8 engine
The Duramax is a General Motors V8 diesel engine family for trucks. The 6.6-liter Duramax is produced by DMAX, a joint venture between GM and Isuzu in Moraine, Ohio. The Duramax block and heads are poured at The Defiance GM Powertrain foundry in Defiance, Ohio. This engine was initially installed in 2001 Chevrolet and GMC trucks, and has been an option since then in pickups, vans, and medium-duty trucks. In 2006, production at Moraine was reportedly limited to approximately 200,000 engines per year. On May 9, 2007, DMAX announced the production of the 1,000,000th Duramax V-8 diesel at its Moraine facility.

Huh...thanks for the info. Now I can't call these Chevy and GMC trucks Isuzus anymore:D

[SDDave]

Back in the day, yes, 6.0, 6.4 powerstroke had issues and de-stroking was a good alternative. But today the 6.7 is a great engine. It’s proven itself. Yet anytime someone gets rid of a Dodge it’s like they sacrificed their first born.

The 6.7 Cummins has issues, heck they all do. But it’s no longer needed to yard out an engine and stick a 12V in everything. Or even the vintage 00’s 24 valve. Yes they are good motors, but here we all are 15+ years later.

Ford makes a good diesel, Chevy makes and good diesel and Fiat buys a good diesel. They all work great for a vast majority of us that pull.

So it’s like beating a dead horse, to say pull out your perfectly good engine for a vintage engine that won’t meet today’s emissions.
Who said I would pull out my perfectly good PS? Once it's worn out and the truck is worth saving your damn right I would do a Cummins swap. By that time these trucks will probably be in the $150k range and I can do a 6.7l 24 valve isb swap for much less than that. Who wouldn't want the best of those both worlds. Being able to work on your truck without having the cab removed is like winning a small lottery. Honestly who really cares about emissions? unless you live in California or feel the need to blacken out the sky ( which I don't) The diesel without a pile of smog crap are actually pretty good on their own especially in light of our refined fuel.

[SDDave]

I have found this statement many times from those who don't consider a Ram, or switch to a Ford or GM from a Ram. I was a Ford man for 42 years, about 17 years of age to 59, I switched to Ram CTD and never looked back. the seats in my last two Ford F250's were worn out at 140,000 miles.
This is the seat in my old Ram at 314,000 miles. I did have the side seam repaired at about 280,000 miles. The surface is still in great shape.

https://i.imgur.com/WsiSf8E.jpg


What was was worn out in the interior was the drivers seat belt. It was a somewhat easy process to replace, although I did need to remove the seatback material to replace.

https://i.imgur.com/Pk3tbVB.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/KGKF9rg.jpg

Seats don't make the truck, my 2012 with 180k miles on it had to have the front driver leather(pleather) bolster replaced twice thanks to me sliding in and out of this truck 15-20 times a day running my construction company.
Lets see a RAM Frontend holdup for longer than a 100k miles then you have something.

[Fishsizzle]

Who said I would pull out my perfectly good PS? Once it's worn out and the truck is worth saving your damn right I would do a Cummins swap. By that time these trucks will probably be in the $150k range and I can do a 6.7l 24 valve isb swap for much less than that. Who wouldn't want the best of those both worlds. Being able to work on your truck without having the cab removed is like winning a small lottery. Honestly who really cares about emissions? unless you live in California or feel the need to blacken out the sky ( which I don't) The diesel without a pile of smog crap are actually pretty good on their own especially in light of our refined fuel.

Wasn’t directed at you at all. Another posted said “hope you saved your Cummins as a back up” I was pointing out that all 3 makers have pretty good engines now.

And honestly, I do care about emissions. I had a 6.4 deleted and loved it. Miss it terribly. But also realize that I don’t own the world and have to have some sense of responsibility towards stewardship of the earth. Pick up my trash, recycle, don’t dump my oil down the drain and keep my rigs running in top shape. And I’ve lived in the OR my whole life. No CA influence for me, even though it does seem the OR should be called North CA these days!

Happy towing

[vampress_me]

I have found this statement many times from those who don't consider a Ram, or switch to a Ford or GM from a Ram. I was a Ford man for 42 years, about 17 years of age to 59, I switched to Ram CTD and never looked back. the seats in my last two Ford F250's were worn out at 140,000 miles.
This is the seat in my old Ram at 314,000 miles. I did have the side seam repaired at about 280,000 miles. The surface is still in great shape.

https://i.imgur.com/WsiSf8E.jpg


What was was worn out in the interior was the drivers seat belt. It was a somewhat easy process to replace, although I did need to remove the seatback material to replace.

https://i.imgur.com/Pk3tbVB.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/KGKF9rg.jpg

Sadly, the problem with our ‘99 2500 CTD wasn’t the seats. BTW - the seat fabric in your picture was the same as in our Dodge - I loved that fabric color! It was the fact the truck was rusting out around the engine. With the track bar in that Dodge having to be replaced every year or two (we knew it, accepted it, and were willing to spend money on it), when it hit 13 years of age, the truck literally was rusted so bad the tailgate was losing bits and flakes when you’d slam it shut, and the last straw was the shop I had always taken it to telling me this was the last track bar they could do without replacing more of the front end due to the rust. And that was with me taking the truck to the car wash religiously once a week, with an undercarriage wash, every winter because of the salt here. I’ve never had a truck rust so badly, so quickly, as that Dodge.

Also, Dodge just didn’t get it together in time when we were looking at new trucks in 2009. The interior of a new Dodge just didn’t have the roominess as the Ford did. And with 2 kids in the backseat our suicide doors (extended cab?) didn’t give enough backseat space for their growing leg length, and Dodge’s crew cab didn’t have any more room than our extended cab did. So, off to Ford we went.

[Laredo Tugger]

When I got my Ram a friend told me "the truck will fall apart around the motor". Kinda shrugged it off until I heard the drivers side door "creaking" the other day (has since disappeared).
I am taking extra efforts with maintenance and such and always paying attention to comment on here and elsewhere as what could be "next". The front end gets the nod so far. And yes I know it is a 2018 and I have many miles (hopefully) to go before such problems occur.

As for the seats, I have the Tradseman trim package. Some foam padding and durable seat covers have worked perfectly to make the truck seats comfortable and give protection to the original cloth materials. I can live without heated leather seats and a sunroof,ect..
The "trade-off" (no pun intended) is the payload. 3822 on the door sticker fits my weight ratios perfectly.
And rust is brutal on any metal,regardless which brand of frame it contacts. I do not live in such a place to encounter this,but it sounds like an uphill battle that over time is unavoidable.
RMc

[SDDave]

When I got my Ram a friend told me "the truck will fall apart around the motor". Kinda shrugged it off until I heard the drivers side door "creaking" the other day (has since disappeared).
I am taking extra efforts with maintenance and such and always paying attention to comment on here and elsewhere as what could be "next". The front end gets the nod so far. And yes I know it is a 2018 and I have many miles (hopefully) to go before such problems occur.

As for the seats, I have the Tradseman trim package. Some foam padding and durable seat covers have worked perfectly to make the truck seats comfortable and give protection to the original cloth materials. I can live without heated leather seats and a sunroof,ect..
The "trade-off" (no pun intended) is the payload. 3822 on the door sticker fits my weight ratios perfectly.
And rust is brutal on any metal,regardless which brand of frame it contacts. I do not live in such a place to encounter this,but it sounds like an uphill battle that over time is unavoidable.
RMc exactly, the ram is an actual medium duty truck. I’d still have mine now I liked it that much, and I think the rust protection is better than it was in years past.

The Cummins is an incredible engine, but I couldn’t justify the price difference, over my SD. Time will tell if this one holds up as well and for a minimum as long.

[sourdough]

When I got my Ram a friend told me "the truck will fall apart around the motor". Kinda shrugged it off until I heard the drivers side door "creaking" the other day (has since disappeared).
I am taking extra efforts with maintenance and such and always paying attention to comment on here and elsewhere as what could be "next". The front end gets the nod so far. And yes I know it is a 2018 and I have many miles (hopefully) to go before such problems occur.

As for the seats, I have the Tradseman trim package. Some foam padding and durable seat covers have worked perfectly to make the truck seats comfortable and give protection to the original cloth materials. I can live without heated leather seats and a sunroof,ect..
The "trade-off" (no pun intended) is the payload. 3822 on the door sticker fits my weight ratios perfectly.
And rust is brutal on any metal,regardless which brand of frame it contacts. I do not live in such a place to encounter this,but it sounds like an uphill battle that over time is unavoidable.
RMc


Personally I wouldn't worry about the truck falling apart around the engine - not in the newer Rams.

I owned Ford trucks for about 40 years. They were the best IMO but started falling behind in their "truckness", powertrains and interiors going into the 2000s becoming more "car" oriented to me (all 1/2-3/4 ton SRW). I had driven Ram trucks at work for decades as well and detested them. The claims of "falling apart", uncomfortable, not well built were all well founded.

Enter the new body style Ram circa 1994 of which I took note but they still looked like they needed refinement. Finally moved to a Ram 1500 4x4 Off Road in 2001 followed by a 2002 1500 (new body style) then a 2003 4x4 Off Road. I've owned Rams since. I've not had any issues with the front ends but I don't keep a vehicle past 100k. The interiors are now nicer than the others IMO (that is a personal thing) as well.

Don't get me wrong, all of the Big 3 make excellent trucks. I figure the interiors of all of them will last about the same and the drivetrains have become very good so I don't know that there is a bad choice in the lot - so, not trying to start a debate about which truck is best. Just trying to reassure you that IMO your truck is going to be just fine and not to worry about every little thing thinking it's going to "fall apart".

[Laredo Tugger]

Thanks for the validation. I know the newer Rams have stepped up to the plate and that is born out of shear competition. If they were selling junk it would not take long for the word to get out. They all have plus and minuses depending on personal preferences.
I am real happy with my "medium duty truck". ????
RMc

[travelin texans]

As far as trucks go I've driven one brand for 30+ years at work & personally owned another brand, The truck brand at work after having a couple I would personally NEVER EVER own one & the other I still own that brand today. There was a 3rd brand during my working days that had probably the toughest drivetrain of any of the 3 brands, but after about a year driving the oilfields the drivetrain was about all that was left of it.
Basically there's 2 kinds of truck buyers, #1 buys strictly by price, could care less about brand, just cheapest & #2 are the brand loyalist, their brand is #1 regardless if they're stranded along the highway or in the shop 1/2 the time.
As stated today all are good trucks & don't think you'd go wrong buying any of the big 3, just be sure to get more than you think you'll need.

[rhagfo]

Thanks for the validation. I know the newer Rams have stepped up to the plate and that is born out of shear competition. If they were selling junk it would not take long for the word to get out. They all have plus and minuses depending on personal preferences.
I am real happy with my "medium duty truck". ????
RMc

Well I was still waiting for our 2001 Ram (Dodge) 2500 to fall apart with 314,000 miles when we decided to replace it with a 2016 Ram 3500 DRW.

https://i.imgur.com/RklGNWY.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/hUEEpRd.jpg