Slide not moving!

[cwhite]

Hi,
We have a 2014 Keystone Bullet 241BHS

Our slide will not go out. We thought it was the battery, but we bought a new one and we are also now plugged into our campsite’s electricity, but it still will not extend.
We found the dual motor synchronous velocity mode controller which give directions on how to manually override, however that’s not working. There are no lights on that, as suggested...so we are wondering if there is a fuse somewhere that is gone.

Please! Does anyone know what we can do?

Thanks!

[notanlines]

First and most importantly, if your red-keyed battery cut off switched turned to 'on' and are you positive it is 'on?' Tell us a few things in the RV that are 12V that DO work.

[cwhite]

I’m sorry...I’m apparently not very informed on the electrical wiring...so please excuse my ignorance.

Everything else in the trailer is working. Hot water heater, lights, furnace, stereo, tv, toaster, kettle...you name it and it works. Except for the slide.

[chuckster57]

Sounds like you have the Schwintek slide mechanism. Have you tried pushing the extend button and have someone else look at the controller for any lights?

If your not getting ANY 12V to the controller, I would start at the fuse panel. There is most likely a thermal resetting circuit breaker, most popular is the top or bottom slot. Take it out and using a test light or ohm meter, test for voltage and then test the breaker for continuity. Post back with results.

One last trick to try. Press IN for a second then OUT.

[Jason33]

I am also having issues with my slide out. The relay clicks and the motor makes a funny buzzing sound but no movement. I am plugged into my house but the batteries are disconnected for charging. Does that make a difference? Motor does not appear to have a override slot or break. It is a 2002 Terry TT. Sat for 2 yrs. Any info is helpful! Thanks.

[Logan X]

I am also having issues with my slide out. The relay clicks and the motor makes a funny buzzing sound but no movement. I am plugged into my house but the batteries are disconnected for charging. Does that make a difference? Motor does not appear to have a override slot or break. It is a 2002 Terry TT. Sat for 2 yrs. Any info is helpful! Thanks.

I don’t know if this will help or not. I have heard that many, including mine, slides should have the batteries attached to operate the slide. I believe this is because the slide motor may be a lot for the power converter to handle on its own without the batteries.

[Charby]

I don’t know if this will help or not. I have heard that many, including mine, slides should have the batteries attached to operate the slide. I believe this is because the slide motor may be a lot for the power converter to handle on its own without the batteries.

I thought the same, but while going through PDI when trailer was new. There was no battery connected as it was on shore power and slide was extended. If batteries are low, the slide can get a boast while plugged into tow vehicle while running to enable slide closure. I would think the fuse as an easy start too.

[jsmith948]

I am also having issues with my slide out. The relay clicks and the motor makes a funny buzzing sound but no movement. I am plugged into my house but the batteries are disconnected for charging. Does that make a difference? Motor does not appear to have a override slot or break. It is a 2002 Terry TT. Sat for 2 yrs. Any info is helpful! Thanks.

If you are plugged into your house, there is no reason to remove the batteries for charging. The trailer's converter will charge the battery/batteries just fine.

[Hoodlatch]

Did you get it working? I had the exact same problem with my 241BHS today. Acted like a blown fuse, but pulling fuse momentarily did nothing to help.

I unplugged power leads at the controller, when plugging 12v+ lead back on last it sparked. Then it showed a bogus fault which cleared using reset button. Slide worked fine after that.

There’s surely a better fix and or explanation, but try it.

[JRTJH]

I thought the same, but while going through PDI when trailer was new. There was no battery connected as it was on shore power and slide was extended. If batteries are low, the slide can get a boast while plugged into tow vehicle while running to enable slide closure. I would think the fuse as an easy start too.

It will work without a battery. The question is, "FOR HOW LONG???"

The battery helps absorb the initial amperage surge that the electric slide places on the converter. How long or how many times you can "jolt the bridge circuit diodes" before one of them "smokes" and the converter needs replacement is the "question of the day".....

If I were you, I'd protect the converter by only placing a heavy load on it when a fully charged battery is also connected to the system.

[sourdough]

I thought the same, but while going through PDI when trailer was new. There was no battery connected as it was on shore power and slide was extended. If batteries are low, the slide can get a boast while plugged into tow vehicle while running to enable slide closure. I would think the fuse as an easy start too.


As John mentioned, just because "they did it" doesn't mean it was the right, or optimal thing to do.....it was the expedient answer.

My trailer was in the shop for "roof maintenance", it came out with dead batteries. Who knows what they were doing or why, but they totally killed the batteries. Their response? No big deal, we do it all the time you just need to recharge them. Really? I sent them this link:

https://www.intechtrailers.com/images/info/PDF/Interstate-Battery/Interstate-Battery-Marine-Grade-Battery-Maintenance-Manual.pdf

and asked them to please review the life cycle chart that references depleting the charge on the batteries. One total discharge reduced my overall recharge capabilities by 80+% over one used normally. Result? The trailer is back in the shop again to have a new galley gray tank installed along with 2 NEW Interstate batteries (no charge).

All to point out that because you're on the lot and someone "does" something, it doesn't make it the right thing to do - I'm not sure if many of them actually know what they SHOULD do - so be careful trying to run those slides without a battery. :)

[BadmanRick]

Just got trailer back from rv service center because of the same thing. I closed slide at home arrived at campground and no 12 volts anywhere. Just heard a clicking noise at battery area by circuit breakers. Took it rv service center and they found the wires were burned at the slide switch, all the way to the circuit breaker and over to the slide motor. Slide motor was bad and almost caused a fire. I’d check the circuit breakers first.

[BradleyScheirer]

Try swapping out this with another one, the little two prong relay
Tried posting a picture but it wouldn’t let me

[jsb5717]

Also, make sure all 12v connections are tight...check junction boxes, etc. from the battery outward, to make sure all are tight. I had that happen in an older 5er and just by tighening all of the connections the slide worked just fine. Just a thought.

[Dboland9]

We had a slide that was stuck in the out position, so we were unable to move. As it was brand new and still under warranty, I emailed Keystone 5 or 6 days in a row to get their advice and help. They failed to respond to any of these emails. My dealer was equally uninterested in helping. Finally a buddy of mine who is more mechanically inclined found that the wire to the slide motor had a kink in it. When he unlinked it, it worked fine.

[MarkEHansen]

So a kink in an electrical wire prevents the electrons from flowing? :)

[JRTJH]

We had a slide that was stuck in the out position, so we were unable to move. As it was brand new and still under warranty, I emailed Keystone 5 or 6 days in a row to get their advice and help. They failed to respond to any of these emails. My dealer was equally uninterested in helping. Finally a buddy of mine who is more mechanically inclined found that the wire to the slide motor had a kink in it. When he unlinked it, it worked fine.

So a kink in an electrical wire prevents the electrons from flowing? :)

Something definitely got lost in the "translation" of what Dboland9's buddy did and what he told him was the problem".... Kinks in wires don't stop them from working. I'd be interested in what the "real problem" was. It definitely wasn't a "kinked wire".....

[John&Genny]

So a kink in an electrical wire prevents the electrons from flowing? :)

That’s a new one on me also :) I would say one scenario is the wire was broken but when unkinked it started making contact again. Or there was a loose connection somewhere and when the wire was moved, it made contact. In which case, I would say the wiring to the slide motor needs to be properly inspected, connections tightened, and wires replaced if need be.

[Hoodlatch]

So as I stated earlier, I’ve been having the same intermittent issue, ironically the same year and model as the OP.
Went to put slide in yesterday and nothing. No click, no hum, just dead. All other 12v working fine. No power at the generic slide control box. I found that there is no fuse in the panel for that. Power is run directly out to the circuit breaker on tongue by the battery, These are “waterproof” breakers with red covers. The main issue I have is they have so many wires in and out of these things that the covers can’t seal. My terminals were all rusty and corroded again. Once cleaned up, side works again.

[jsmith948]

That kinked wire story reminds me:
When we bought a newly constructed home back in 1977, we were on site watching the electricians wiring the house. I told the DW that our first power bill was going to be enormous. "Why?" she asked. "Have to fill up all the wires" I said. :hide: I swear, if you look close you can still see the bruises:whistling:

[JRTJH]

So as I stated earlier, I’ve been having the same intermittent issue, ironically the same year and model as the OP.
Went to put slide in yesterday and nothing. No click, no hum, just dead. All other 12v working fine. No power at the generic slide control box. I found that there is no fuse in the panel for that. Power is run directly out to the circuit breaker on tongue by the battery, These are “waterproof” breakers with red covers. The main issue I have is they have so many wires in and out of these things that the covers can’t seal. My terminals were all rusty and corroded again. Once cleaned up, side works again.

It might be beneficial for you to add a waterproof electrical box to the tongue of your trailer and place all of the circuit breakers in that box, seal the cover and eliminate the problem with water intrusion on your circuit breakers. Boxes are available at Lowe's and Home Depot as well as any hardware store.

This is one of those times when "improving the OEM design" will pay dividends for years to come. Fifth wheels almost always have those "mini-breakers" in the front compartment, protected from weather. Travel trailers, for some reason, tend to just "hang 'em on the tongue bulkhead". I've seldom seen a problem with corrosion on fifth wheels, almost always a concern on travel trailers. Protect them and it'll go "miles toward reliability".....

[Hoodlatch]

Yes I bought a box and new breakers last fall when I winterized, but haven’t found the time to install. I believe it was your recommendation on here the last time I had trouble.

I also got a box for my shunt since I purchased a Victron Battery monitor and Victron MPPT and i might just get everything mounted up this weekend.

[Jimmys]

Hi there hoodlatch. Where was your control box located. I could not find mine. I am having same issue mine is 246 bhsl kodiak

[Jimmys]

So as I stated earlier, I’ve been having the same intermittent issue, ironically the same year and model as the OP.
Went to put slide in yesterday and nothing. No click, no hum, just dead. All other 12v working fine. No power at the generic slide control box. I found that there is no fuse in the panel for that. Power is run directly out to the circuit breaker on tongue by the battery, These are “waterproof” breakers with red covers. The main issue I have is they have so many wires in and out of these things that the covers can’t seal. My terminals were all rusty and corroded again. Once cleaned up, side works again.


Can you post a picture please

[Jimmys]

Did you get it working? I had the exact same problem with my 241BHS today. Acted like a blown fuse, but pulling fuse momentarily did nothing to help.

I unplugged power leads at the controller, when plugging 12v+ lead back on last it sparked. Then it showed a bogus fault which cleared using reset button. Slide worked fine after that.

There’s surely a better fix and or explanation, but try it.


Where was your control box located. I can’t seem to find mine on a 246 bhsl

[jasin1]

Where was your control box located. I can’t seem to find mine on a 246 bhsl

Welcome to the forum! The post is almost 2 years old. The member hasn’t posted anything since last May it looks like.. he may respond or someone else may chime in..good luck