Need advice on tow vehicle/trailer

[Rosendale]

Is my tow vehicle a good match for my travel trailer. I have a GMC Sierra 1550, 5.3L V8, 8 speed, with enhanced towing package, axle ratio 3.42, max trailer weight 10,800, GCWR 16,700, my trailer is a Hideout 21FQWE, dry 4650, cargo 2350, hitch 514. I did the math and think it's okay, but as I'm new to this, any advice is appreciated.

[MarkEHansen]

To be safe, you should always use the GVWR on the trailer as your numbers. For example, you say the dry weight is 4650 and the cargo capacity is 2350. That's 7000 lbs GVWR.

The tongue weight reported by the manufacturer is based on the dry weight, which is not very useful. You should figure on 12-15% of the GVWR for the trailer. That comes out to 840 lbs to 1050 lbs.

Next, have a look at the yellow payload sticker on your driver's door pillar. It will say something like "Cargo and Passengers must not exceed ... lbs".

From your payload comes all of the following (and perhaps more): People, cargo, WD hitch, trailer tongue weight, luggage, bikes, generator, etc.

Add up all the truck cargo (including trailer tongue weight and WD hitch weight) and subtract that from your payload capacity.

My guess is you'll be over your payload capacity.

There are other considerations too, like the max weight on the front and rear axles, the maximum weight on the tires, etc. Start with the numbers above and see how you feel about it.

Have you already purchased both truck and trailer? What will you do if the trailer is too heavy?

This seems like a lot of weight for a 1/2-ton truck.

[GMcKenzie]

Is my tow vehicle a good match for my travel trailer. I have a GMC Sierra 1550, 5.3L V8, 8 speed, with enhanced towing package, axle ratio 3.42, max trailer weight 10,800, GCWR 16,700, my trailer is a Hideout 21FQWE, dry 4650, cargo 2350, hitch 514. I did the math and think it's okay, but as I'm new to this, any advice is appreciated.

Assuming by enhanced towing package, you mean the NHT glove box code. In which case you should have around 2K payload.

Do as MarkEHansen suggests and look at the yellow payload sticker on your doorframe, but assuming you have the NHT, you will most likely be under your payload rating.

I've got a similar truck, older with a 3.73 axle and a 6 speed. I tow 8,200 gross and am fine. You will have an easier time than I do.

[Rosendale]

To be safe, you should always use the GVWR on the trailer as your numbers. For example, you say the dry weight is 4650 and the cargo capacity is 2350. That's 7000 lbs GVWR.

The tongue weight reported by the manufacturer is based on the dry weight, which is not very useful. You should figure on 12-15% of the GVWR for the trailer. That comes out to 840 lbs to 1050 lbs.

Next, have a look at the yellow payload sticker on your driver's door pillar. It will say something like "Cargo and Passengers must not exceed ... lbs".

From your payload comes all of the following (and perhaps more): People, cargo, WD hitch, trailer tongue weight, luggage, bikes, generator, etc.

Add up all the truck cargo (including trailer tongue weight and WD hitch weight) and subtract that from your payload capacity.

My guess is you'll be over your payload capacity.

There are other considerations too, like the max weight on the front and rear axles, the maximum weight on the tires, etc. Start with the numbers above and see how you feel about it.

Have you already purchased both truck and trailer? What will you do if the trailer is too heavy?

This seems like a lot of weight for a 1/2-ton truck.

Mark

Here's my math - Curb weight is 5216 lbs plus payload sticker 1786 lbs = 7100 (my cargo is always less than that), take that from my GCWR 16,700 leaves 9,600 for towing capacity. My Hideout is GVWR 7000. Leaves me 1600 (about 1000 taken as suggested added to dry weight) leaves me about 500.

Does this seem right to you? As to your question, yes I have purchased both already, used for some last season also. Both the truck sales and the trailer sales said that they would work together, (:), I am a newbie). Not sure what to do if the trailer is too heavy, may have to upgrade the truck. The reason I went with the 1/2 ton is I wanted the best bet for fuel economy. I had a GMC 3500 and it was a killer.

This seems to haul the trailer fine but after seeing all the discussion on the forum here, thought I'd better double check. Thanks.

[MarkEHansen]

Your cargo now needs to include the weight of the WD hitch as well as the tongue weight of the trailer. Work on your payload capacity first. You say the sticker says 1786 lbs. Subtract all the cargo from that (people, WD hitch, tongue wt, etc., as previously listed). What does that leave you with?

Next, have a look at the front and rear axle weight ratings. The weight you're putting on your axles can be computed (roughly) but it would be best to load everything up as if your going camping and then hit the CAT scales.

Once you have the weights on each axle, you can double-check the max load ratings for your tires.

All the limits mater, but I would take them one (or a few) at a time. In my option, the order should be payload limits, then axle limits, then tire limits, then combined limits - but others may have other priorities.

Good on you for checking. Even if you're over - it's better to know than not know. Once you know you can do things like plan for a larger truck, if that's called for.

[Gegrad]

If your yellow sticker payload is 1786 lbs you shouldn't be anywhere close to that unless you carry tons of stuff and/or your FW tank full and it is in front of the axles.

[busterbrown]

That trailer should be a good fit for your TV. You have a nice hefty payload package on your GMC. The tongue weight is relatively light compared to many trailers we see being pulled by many 1/2 tons. And the overall trailer length is respectably safe for the TV.

A trip to a CAT scale all loaded up will give you confirmation on this. But I don't see any evidence that you'll be overweight on any of the vehicle specs.

Since you've been using the trailer for a few trips, how does the rig perform? Are you experiencing any white knuckle drives? Is your WDH dialled in? Is braking adequate?

[MTBlazer89]

Yeah you should be good. Assuming your trailer is maxed out at 7k with 1050 lbs of tongue weight that leaves you 736 lbs of payload left, but as others said it doesn't hurt to spec each limit out to verify.

[Rosendale]

I will do a quick trip to the scale when I go that way next, thanks for the help.

[Rosendale]

That trailer should be a good fit for your TV. You have a nice hefty payload package on your GMC. The tongue weight is relatively light compared to many trailers we see being pulled by many 1/2 tons. And the overall trailer length is respectably safe for the TV.

A trip to a CAT scale all loaded up will give you confirmation on this. But I don't see any evidence that you'll be overweight on any of the vehicle specs.

Since you've been using the trailer for a few trips, how does the rig perform? Are you experiencing any white knuckle drives? Is your WDH dialled in? Is braking adequate?

It pulls really well, not a lot of power loss on grades, breaking is fine (truck has a built in brake controller), equalizer hitch works fine, bought it used so not sure of brand, hardly any sway, nothing white knuckle for sure. I keep my speed at 90 kph because my trailer tires are the cheaper ones that came with the trailer, those will be replaced soon. I'm pretty confident about the towing capability now but plan a stop at the scales next time out. Thanks.

[Rosendale]

I just got back from holiday and was able to weigh the TT at a commercial scale. Good news and some a bit of a worry. I have a GMC Sierra 1550, 5.3L V8, 8 speed, with enhanced towing package, axle ratio 3.42, max trailer weight 10,800, GCWR 16,700, curb weight is 5216 lbs, payload sticker 1786 lbs. My trailer is a Hideout 21FQWE, dry 4650, cargo 2350, hitch 514.

Actual weights at scale -

Truck/all cargo/hitch = 7084 lbs (truck = 5214 lbs, (cargo 858 lbs + hitch 1012 lbs = 1870 lbs)

Trailer = 5016 lbs (4650 lbs dry, 366 lbs cargo).

So looks like the trailer weight is well below what I can tow, BUT the payload weight on the truck is over what I am allowed, by about 100 lbs.

I'm hoping I can carry less fresh water and that will make the difference on the hitch, but for the life of me can't find a diagram showing where the storage tanks are located on my TT and if they have any bearing on the hitch weight?

Any suggestions most appreciated.

[MarkEHansen]

Just look for the port used to fill the fresh water tank. The tank will be in the same general position. If it is ahead of the axles, then the water will add to the tongue weight. Otherwise, it takes away from it.

[Rosendale]

Thanks Mark, yes the tank is upfront, so will affect the tongue weight, next time we take the trailer out, I'll leave it almost empty, and weigh again, the tank is 60 gallons, so about 375 lbs., hopefully that will solve the overweight, also plan on re-arranging and de-cluttering the truck box.

[travelin texans]

Thanks Mark, yes the tank is upfront, so will affect the tongue weight, next time we take the trailer out, I'll leave it almost empty, and weigh again, the tank is 60 gallons, so about 375 lbs., hopefully that will solve the overweight, also plan on re-arranging and de-cluttering the truck box.

Water is 8.34 lbs per gallon = 500+ lbs for 60 gallons.

[Rosendale]

Water is 8.34 lbs per gallon = 500+ lbs for 60 gallons.
Even better, thank you

[ctbruce]

Travel with a few gallons in the tank for potty breaks. Then fill when you arrive or at least closer to destination.

[Rosendale]

Yes, that's going to be the plan ,thanks