Very little braking from my camper?

[Campy]

Trying to track down an brake issue I have had with my Cougar for awhile now and looking for help or insight. Could never get full braking power even when new, dealer said it will take time to "bed" in the shoes but the stopping power never did improve. Now I"m looking for a reason? At first we thought it was the built-in controller in the truck so I installed a Prodigy controller, slightly better. When applying full manual power to the brakes the rig will barely slow down. I'm thinking it's a wiring issue on the camper itself, appears to have 14g wiring for the brake wire. I have larger wire on my speakers!

[Tbos]

I’d think a very thorough inspection of each wheel and the brake assembly on it. Maybe you’ve had some leaking seals from day one. I’ve always been able to lock up the RV tires as a test. Hope you are able to get it resolved.

[ADQ K9]

Ditto on what Tom said. If you can't lock them up, something is wrong.

[JRTJH]

I would urge you to not consider the wiring. EVERY trailer that Keystone produces uses essentially the SAME wiring, so if it was wiring, we'd all be having the same problems... We aren't and it's not the size of the wire. There may be a loose or disconnected wire somewhere, but the size is sufficient for our trailers, it is for yours too.

First, pull the hubs, inspect the brakes carefully. My guess is that someone, somewhere has used the EZ Lube system to inject some grease into the hubs, blown a seal and you'll find the brakes saturated with grease.

Let us know what you find when you do the visual inspection. Photos would be helpful.

[gearhead]

Try this first....drive around town using the brakes normally. Find a safe place to pull over. Check the temps of the outer edge of the drums with a infrared temp gun. You will at least discover if just one or two is working. From there I would check the wiring. I had the same problem and just replaced with 4 complete brake assembly with eTrailer.com parts. I used marine butt connectors heat shrink with heat shrink sleeves over that.

[HitFactor]

Take it to a mechanic. One you already have a relationship with is best.

Forget about the dealership, you know, the idiot that said the shoes have to bed.

[Campy]

Still checking but been through each wheel and no grease leaks on any. My trailer does have the EZ-lube axles but I refuse to use them, I pack the old fashion way,... by hand.

[Javi]

Still checking but been through each wheel and no grease leaks on any. My trailer does have the EZ-lube axles but I refuse to use them, I pack the old fashion way,... by hand.I just have to ask... what are you considering FULL stopping power?

I test my Cougar 333MKS brakes when rolling at approximately 5 mph. I apply the paddle and if the rig stops, I'm good.

I want the trailer brakes to provide drag to assist with stopping, not to stop the complete rig.

[HitFactor]

Is that what the owners manual specifies for checking the trailer brakes? My manual is different from that, but there could be differences.

I would only recommend following the manual for testing.

This is a huge safety issue. If he was driving overweight this forum would come down on him like a ton of bricks. It's been going on since new, 5 seasons.

Guess what, without proper braking he is overweight.

New computer, wire gauge, grease contamination, no, no, and no. Quit guessing and driving unsafely.

Take it to a mechanic.

[nellie1289]

So I find on my trailer that there is little stopping power when I first hook up but after towing around a while they work much better. Is this normal. I still think they are weak no matter how much I adjust the gain even to like 7-8. When I hook up my 8k lb cargo trailer they lock up instantly even at 3-4.

[roadglide]

Mine came. From the dealer with wires rubbed through by the tire . I expect that caused the magnet on the left side to score the drum . I check my trailer brakes slightly down hill truck in natural and set at 7 when it stops 23000 lbs that's good for me .

[RCW]

The brakes do need to "bed in". All brakes have a break in period when installed before they become fully effective. This is even more of an issue on drum brakes. The other issue is that our trailers sit for long periods without the brakes being used. This allows rust to build up on the surfaces. So you way need to apply the brakes several times to clean them off.

To the original OP, the first thing I would do is pull the emergency break away cable out. This should apply the brakes hard enough that you will skid the trailer tires while pulling with your TV. This should isolate the problem between the Trailer and the TV

[German Shepherd Guy]

I dunno guys but Campy says this has been a problem from day 1. Packs bearings the old fashioned way by hand and an inspection shows no grease. I agree with Hitfactor, this is now a job for a good mechanic as safety is involved. NOT the dealer who basically refused to admit a problem. I live very rural, far from RV guys but my local mechanic is really good and also knowledgeable about electric drum breaks. So I am guessing (of course we all know what assume stands for :angel:) that Campy should be able to find someone close who can troubleshoot the brakes.


So why don't TT's come with disc brakes standard now? Not that there is an answer to this that doesn't come down to $, but after the initial change over it is hard to believe that cost would be much different. :confused:


Campy, good luck, I will be interested to hear the final resolution to this just for my own benefit if nothing else so please keep up the thread.
Oak. :cool:

[RCW]

I could not agree more that this is a serious safety concern. It sounds as though the OP mentioned the issue to the dealer when the trailer was new. The initial thought that it was just a break in issue is reasonable. By the way the break in period could be shortened dramatically if the shoes were cam ground to match the drums by the manufacture. But I think that is a lost art.

The recommendation I made was not a repair. It was just to help isolate which one was at fault. Ultimately a qualified tech needs to check the system out.

[HitFactor]

The brakes do need to "bed in". All brakes have a break in period when installed before they become fully effective.

That was five years ago, hardly relative in the context of this thread.


The dealer was deflecting responsiblity.

[RCW]

That was five years ago, hardly relative in the context of this thread.


The dealer was deflecting responsiblity.

The original post states that he ask the dealer about it when he first got the trailer. How would it not be relative if the OP stated it in his first post to explain the situation? As I stated before there is a break in period for brakes and even more of one for drum brakes. Since neither one of us were apart of the OP's conversation with the dealer, I don't think we would be qualified to determine the intent of the partys involved.

[rjrelander]

We had our brake controller installed at the RV dealer. I didn't really know what trailer brakes were supposed to feel like at the time but they seemed weak. Finally bothered me enough that I checked the wiring only to find that the ground wire to the controller under the dash was hanging by a thread. Rewired the controller and has worked great ever since. Luckily, our trailer is light enough that I could stop it by putting out my foot. I have some pictures sitting on my phone that I should upload at some point.

[HitFactor]

The original post states that he ask the dealer about it when he first got the trailer. How would it not be relative if the OP stated it in his first post to explain the situation? As I stated before there is a break in period for brakes and even more of one for drum brakes. Since neither one of us were apart of the OP's conversation with the dealer, I don't think we would be qualified to determine the intent of the partys involved.

It's not relative. The dealer was shirking his responsibilities.

Are you saying that new brakes are unsafe as the new owner pulls off the lot? Do we have to wait for brakes to bed before they are safe? I doubt that's what you are saying.

[JRTJH]

The OP lives in Preble County, Ohio. That's 175 miles (give or take) from Goshen. The trailer "somehow" got from the factory to the dealer's lot. I'd suspect being towed ???? I'd also suspect that the brakes would have "bed in" in that distance. So IMHO the dealer was blowing smoke saying they needed "further wear in" before working properly. At any rate, that was 5 years ago and the OP is currently concerned with his braking action. Whether it "never worked properly" or "There was improvement with the Prodigy controller" or some other cause, the fact remains that "after 5 years of towing, is it really an emergency now?"

Granted, the trailer should have adequate braking, and the brake system needs to be checked by someone who can competently inspect and repair the system. But, for us, with no knowledge of how far the trailer has been towed in the past 5 years and whether the brakes have ever (EVER) been properly adjusted, or even if they ever worked properly, well, there's really little "assurance" that things are good or bad, worn or in OK condition, operating properly or not, magnets adequately applying brakes or slipping, glazed drums or worn brake shoes.... In other words, on a 5 year old trailer that has been consistently used with the current brakes in the condition they are currently in (from new to now), well, there's really no way on this green earth that anyone can "diagnose from 500 miles away" or "offer accurate advice on repair" The only "accurate advice" is, IMHO, find someone who knows how to repair trailer brakes and hire them to get your system working the way it should. My guess would be that will include new brake shoes, magnets, backing plates and having the drums turned as well as repacking the bearings and replacing the seals.

[RCW]

There sure has been a lot of finger pointing at the dealer for something that's not "relative".

How many times do you think they stopped that trailer on the way over to the dealer?

I also live in Ohio. And I just took delivery of a new trailer in Jan. Because our first trip with it was to Savannah Ga. I took the brakes apart and checked them along with packing the brg's. The shoes were not even close to being bed in. The brakes worked but as our trip went on, I found that I had to make several adjustments to the controler because of them beding in.

I also believe that there is something else wrong with the OP's rig and that would be the reason why I sugested that he pull the emergency pin on the trailer brake system to help isolate the problem.

[roadglide]

I installed 4 complete sets of Dexter self adjusting brakes I kept applying the rig breaks on my hill , I have to admit it took several attempts befor the rig came to a hult . In my experience with Dexter brakes the adjustment was trouble free.

[goducks]

OP, have you manually adjusted the brakes through the backing plate? Or are the self adjusting?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Tf1Bc526zE

[Campy]

First off some of the insinuations are kind of insulting guys,... You think I have been dragging this thing around with no brakes, weak brakes yes. The camper has only been used 5 times since new and only two of those trips were more than 100 miles away. The brakes do work but not properly and yes this has been an ongoing problem since new. After the dealer told me they needed time to bed in I accepted that and gave them some time. On my part I have checked and adjusted the brakes at the wheels several times with no improvement. Everything looked good the time I packed the bearings, the wiring going through the axles for the brakes is really flimsy like speaker wire. I thought it was in my truck at first because we changed trucks right at the time of purchase and the new truck had the "built-in" controller and I did not like it anyways. There was some improvement after I installed the Prodigy controller but very little. I'm sure it has to be a wiring issue but the belly skin is making it hard to get in there. Life and other issues have kept us from even using it last year at all. Currently its still tied up in its indoor storage and I can't get to it, should be able to soon.

[Ken / Claudia]

Sure sounds to me a shop and an hour or so of labor is in order. Going on the fact you say the brakes are fine and you have used 2 brake controllers. My guess is only a guess if you really have adjusted the brake controllers correctly, you have an electric issue somewhere on the trailer. For me it does not matter how far or how little you pull the trailer not having correct functioning trailer brakes is a danger to everyone on the road. Here improper safety equipment will earn a careless driving cite, if it leads to damage or injury it moves up to a crime of reckless driving.

[sourdough]

Campy, there are a lot of things that could cause "degraded" trailer brake performance - from mechanical to electrical. Since it sounds like you've checked the brake components and adjusted them properly, that would leave the controller or wiring to me. You've replaced the controller so it would seem you may have a wiring issue. What kind of shape is the connector from the truck to trailer in? It could be as simple as a bad connector/connection, rust etc. Just thinking out loud.

Edit: I was just thinking about taking it to be checked out vs a RV dealership. I had a tandem axle boat and trailer that the brakes were acting up on and it was recommended to take it to a "trailer" repair shop. They repaired all kinds of trailers I suppose and had a huge inventory of axles, hubs, brakes etc. along with several big bays. Took it in and one of the guys took a quick look at it and gave me the assessment which included replacing most of the brake components and all the hoses (hydraulic). They knew EXACTLY what to look for, where and what to do about it without blinking. Left it for 2 days and it was like a new trailer and cost far less than I thought it would. Just throwing that out there about the "trailer" shop vs dealership and the benefit of having a pro look it over.

[BadmanRick]

Hay Campy I had a similar problem with my Toyota Tundra when it came with the factory Break controller. I had a prodigy on my old tundra which works totally different than the Factory controller. The factory controller works directly with the breaks of the truck. They are calibrated to make a smooth stop with the trailer. I had to have Toyota reprogram my controller to work properly. Now they work great.
The prodigy controller feels different because it uses a pendulum and is a LOT MORE SENSITIVE than the factory controller. It can be Jerky sometimes. The factory controllers usually use a slight time delay to give the smooth stop. I would have your truck dealer check and see if they have an update for your factory controller. You should still be able to get a manual lockup on your factory controller. If not have truck dealer check output of the break controller. I purchased my own test equipment for the trailer connector and breaks. I found a dirty plug made a big difference in the breaks. I check mine before I go camping so I have no problems.
Hope this helps.

[msp2jxr]

I have had many new trailers many of them Keystone. I have had two trailers and now the current one from DAY ONE with weak brakes and was told the same thing from the dealer they will get better. They work and function properly but would only slow the rig down and would not even drag the wheels on gravel even after burnishing. The issue of the wiring being thin is not far fetched in my mind. If you watch the way the trailers are wired you may understand why. They have spools of wire hanging from the ceiling and pull down what is needed. If someone grabs the wrong spool or replaced the spool with the wrong gauge wire the brakes will be weak because the wire can not supply enough amperage or will bleed off the amperage due to heat build up. Trailers that go down the SAME assembly line are not even wired the same. Running new wire for the brakes maybe a cheap, safe, and easier fix. Just my 2$.

[bigrockk]

If you are comfortable doing some electrical troubleshooting it should be fairly simple to do a little testing to at least point you in the right direction.

To make this easy you really should have a meter with a DC amp clamp such as the UNI-T UT210E. This is an excellent meter for the price and super handy for testing DC circuits, just Google it, you will find it on eBay or Amazon for around 50 bucks.

The first thing I would do is plug the trailer into the truck. Then find the easiest place to get the “amp clamp” around the wire that supplies current to the trailer brakes. (I think it is the #2 pin on the 7 pin connector but you can Google to confirm)

Now the magnets at the brakes vary somewhat in the current that they draw depending on the model so you can look that up for your particular model, but I think on average they draw between 3-4 amps per wheel.

So with the truck running, brake controller set to max have someone step hard on the truck brakes and hold them there while you read the DC current at the meter, if the current is slowly rising keeping reading the meter until the current stabilizes. If the reading stabilizes at around 12-16 amps chances are the electrical is ok and the braking problem is mechanical.
Keep in mind this doesn’t rule out an intermittent electrical problem 100% but it’s a good starting point to figure things out. If the current is well below the combined rated values of your braking magnets then it is very likely the problem is electrical.

All of this isn’t conclusive but it’s a good starting point to knowing what is going on. Hope this helps and makes sense. Good luck and post back your results and maybe we can help some more if need be.

[jsb5717]

Trying to track down an brake issue I have had with my Cougar for awhile now and looking for help or insight. Could never get full braking power even when new, dealer said it will take time to "bed" in the shoes but the stopping power never did improve. Now I"m looking for a reason? At first we thought it was the built-in controller in the truck so I installed a Prodigy controller, slightly better. When applying full manual power to the brakes the rig will barely slow down. I'm thinking it's a wiring issue on the camper itself, appears to have 14g wiring for the brake wire. I have larger wire on my speakers!

I had a similar issue with mine. I had a 5er that I pulled with an older truck and everything worked and stopped great. Then I got a 2012 RAM with the OEM controller and had stopping issues. I replaced my OEM controller with the Tekonsha Prodigy 2 that I had used before and everything works fine. Since I knew the trailer stopped before the truck change I figured it was the truck.

Do you have any previous experience with the trailer or the truck to know that one of them worked before? If not then you're stuck trouble-shooting everthing. I might be inclined to check the output of the brake controller at the controller vs the plug at the end of the truck to see if there's any signficant loss that might be due to a loose or worn wire.

[bbells]

Hay Campy I had a similar problem with my Toyota Tundra when it came with the factory Break controller. I had a prodigy on my old tundra which works totally different than the Factory controller. The factory controller works directly with the breaks of the truck. They are calibrated to make a smooth stop with the trailer. I had to have Toyota reprogram my controller to work properly. Now they work great.
The prodigy controller feels different because it uses a pendulum and is a LOT MORE SENSITIVE than the factory controller. It can be Jerky sometimes. The factory controllers usually use a slight time delay to give the smooth stop. I would have your truck dealer check and see if they have an update for your factory controller. You should still be able to get a manual lockup on your factory controller. If not have truck dealer check output of the break controller. I purchased my own test equipment for the trailer connector and breaks. I found a dirty plug made a big difference in the breaks. I check mine before I go camping so I have no problems.
Hope this helps.

When did you get your firmware update for your Tundra? My dealer did the update on mine and it did nothing. They had me put it on electric/hydraulic and it caused me to get into an accident on icy roads. I couldn't touch my brakes while I was spinning with the trailer until I changed the controller to electric. Electric/hydraulic isn't proportional - All or nothing. It feels like it is working, but isn't safe. You can't test integrated electronic brakes unless a trailer is connected and you are moving - The computer adjusts output per your speed, braking, etc. Otherwise at the plug it will test ok. I am hoping you got your update in the last few months and that there is a new one out.

[fjr vfr]

If you are comfortable doing some electrical troubleshooting it should be fairly simple to do a little testing to at least point you in the right direction.

To make this easy you really should have a meter with a DC amp clamp such as the UNI-T UT210E. This is an excellent meter for the price and super handy for testing DC circuits, just Google it, you will find it on eBay or Amazon for around 50 bucks.

The first thing I would do is plug the trailer into the truck. Then find the easiest place to get the “amp clamp” around the wire that supplies current to the trailer brakes. (I think it is the #2 pin on the 7 pin connector but you can Google to confirm)

Now the magnets at the brakes vary somewhat in the current that they draw depending on the model so you can look that up for your particular model, but I think on average they draw between 3-4 amps per wheel.

So with the truck running, brake controller set to max have someone step hard on the truck brakes and hold them there while you read the DC current at the meter, if the current is slowly rising keeping reading the meter until the current stabilizes. If the reading stabilizes at around 12-16 amps chances are the electrical is ok and the braking problem is mechanical.
Keep in mind this doesn’t rule out an intermittent electrical problem 100% but it’s a good starting point to figure things out. If the current is well below the combined rated values of your braking magnets then it is very likely the problem is electrical.

All of this isn’t conclusive but it’s a good starting point to knowing what is going on. Hope this helps and makes sense. Good luck and post back your results and maybe we can help some more if need be.




What he said! Use a meter. It will tell you what you need to know in order to eliminate or identify whether electrical is the problem. I'd also go to each wheel and get those readings. Good luck

[BadmanRick]

Hi bbells - I have a 2017 platinum tundra I purchased in July of 2017. On 8/28/2017 I took the truck and trailer to the Toyota dealership and they installed update t-sb-0231-17. They may have a newer update you will need to check with Toyota. This solved my problems
I purchased an Inovative products of America IPA 9107A Electric Brake Force Meter with Dynamic Load Simulation and Circuit Testing meter. This tests the truck 7pin trailer lights and any break controller. I Hooked it up and tested my break system. It does apply full break voltage during a panic stop and increase voltage as you apply the breaks. I am running my IBC at 9 and it works well. This will not give you the same breaking as The tekonsha p3, but now the factory controller does work.
Do not use electric/hydraulic if you do not have that type break system. Very bad information form dealer.

[Local150]

I have mine set quite a bit hire than that,, but on my previous th I had a friend hitting the brakes while I rolled around under the trailer,, I could hear the magnets coming in on only two wheels,not four,, found a wiring problem at the wheel

[Campy]

Thanks guys thats some useful input on what to check. I'm hoping that the storage building will clear out soon so I can get to it to start working on it. We are finally planning a big trip and I dont want to go that far with marginal brakes. I really do believe its a wiring issue, my last camper (Coachman) had wiring twice the size of what's on this bigger camper and would lock up the wheels using the manual lever on the controller.

[geeman]

What he said! Use a meter. It will tell you what you need to know in order to eliminate or identify whether electrical is the problem. I'd also go to each wheel and get those readings. Good luck

Start by checking ground wiring. Many times the ground between truck and trailer is a good start.

Good luck.

[Tinman97423]

I have been researching that same breaking problem with my 2015 Ram 2500 with built in break control pulling my 2016 Cougar 303RLS with the 350 horse Cummings.
This thread is about RAM trucks so I don’t care if your Ford, GMC or Chevy trucks work or don’t work. THIS IS ABOUT RAM TRUCKS that have a problem:banghead:. First of all, I have not been able to find a Ram dealer who knows anything about the built-in break control. All they say is “If it does not show up on the computer there is nothing wrong.
I just came back from a 2400-mile trip and if it wasn’t for the diesel exhaust break, I don’t know what I would have done. Now what follows is what I am going to try first.
This is what I was told to do by a big trailer/RV repair near Palm Springs Cal. First. Using a small bottle jack, jack up just one tire at a time (DO NOT JACK UP THE TRAILER) till it can spin freely (put the jack so it will be between the u-bolts on just one tire at a time). Now with the one tire clear off the ground go and pull the emergency break cord switch (MUST HAVE TRAILER BATTERY HOOKED UP) also having the trailer plugged in to 120 supply would keep the battery charged up while you do this to all wheels with breaks one at a time. I was told to readjust breaks so that they would still spin just a little while you try to turn them using a lot of your body force to turn them. I was told you want the trailer to help stop the truck without just locking up the breaks and just skidding.
If all of the breaks on the trailer work that means nothing wrong with the trailer.
My second idea came from my own little brain. (no smart remarks needed). 😊 My truck has two trailer hook up plugs. One in the bed and one on the rear bumper. I’m thinking on connecting the trailer to one and a jumper from the other (break plug pin only) bringing the wire into the cab through the rear window and plugging it into a volt meter to see how much break voltage is getting to the trailer while on the road using the breaks. On the return drive I will switch the trailer plug and reinstall the jumper in the second plug to see if both truck plugs are getting voltage and how much.
Also, any one with the RAM diesel join the Cummings Diesel Forum. There is a lot of threads covering the break problem with many just adding a completely separate trailer break controller. Doing that will be my last resort. HOPE THIS WILL HELP and please let me know how it works out for you. I have not done any of this yet but will do this by the end of April…… Good Luck… Also, if you live in Southern Oregon send me a PM and we could help each other. I have indoor parking for up to a 60-foot trailer under 14 foot high. No rain problems….

[JRTJH]

Tinman,

One part of adjusting your brake controller in your RAM truck I didn't see addressed in your post. That is the "level adjustment". There are 3 "level adjustments" Light/Medium/Heavy. Many people consider that their adjustment consists of only the 10 numbers from 1-10 on the screen.

If you haven't set the "brake level adjustment" to medium or heavy, chances are you're only operating in the "bottom 1/3 of your controller capacity"....

I can't tell you how to access that feature in your brake controller adjustment software, but it's there and if you haven't addressed it, that may be your "only problem"....

If you've already done that, then disregard or maybe it'll help someone else. Good Luck with your problem.

[Tinman97423]

Tinman,

One part of adjusting your brake controller in your RAM truck I didn't see addressed in your post. That is the "level adjustment". There are 3 "level adjustments" Light/Medium/Heavy. Many people consider that their adjustment consists of only the 10 numbers from 1-10 on the screen.

If you haven't set the "brake level adjustment" to medium or heavy, chances are you're only operating in the "bottom 1/3 of your controller capacity"....

I can't tell you how to access that feature in your brake controller adjustment software, but it's there and if you haven't addressed it, that may be your "only problem"....

If you've already done that, then disregard or maybe it'll help someone else. Good Luck with your problem.

THANKS for the reply..... I did forget and I have it set for electric/heavy. Maybe I should try all? One just might work!!

[JRTJH]

The "cost to try" makes it worth the effort. It likely won't make a significant difference, but if you haven't tried everything, well.... You know how that goes... Good Luck !!!

[Ken / Claudia]

Just to add a comment about skidding tires, any tries. When a tire skids it has lost all rolling fiction, right?. With that in mind a skidding tire travels at a faster speed than a tire on another axle that is still rolling. That's why vehicles spin out with a single tire skidding and why a trailer with skidding tires jack knives.
Many cannot get that idea, it seems wrong that a skidding/sliding tire would travel faster than a rolling one on the same vehicle.

[gkainz]

Tinman,
In the middle of your post you said "if all of the breaks (sic) on the trailer work, then there's nothing wrong with the trailer".

That's "mostly" correct. You still could have a failure/fault in your wiring between the trailer connector plug to the junction box (I assume your trailer has one) where the emergency brake 12VDC(+) connects.

[24vctd]

Campy I had a 2015 cougar tt I could not get the brakes to lock on a test no matter how high I had the controller set. I finally adjusted the brakes up by backing the trailer up a few times applying heavy broke it made a huge difference.

[Campy]

We just now got the storage cleared out so I can get to my camper. Going to start at the front and work my way back till this is solved. That camper should have more brake power than it does.

[sourdough]

Keep us posted Campy.

[Campy]

Well we found two separate issues. First the camper is wired from the front to the axles with 14 gauge wire! Pretty sure for the length is should be at least 10 gauge wire. It starts out as 10 until it gets to the junction box under the pin box and from there its 14.
Second issue which is really stupid on the builders part and partially stupid on my part (for not catching it while doing the bearings) one axle is installed backwards! The left and right brakes simply need to be swapped around to get them working in the RIGHT direction. Currently waiting on new wiring from etrailer and already have the brake assemblies swapped. Pretty sure this will solve my weak brake issues.

[sourdough]

Good news! I know it was a lot of work and irritation but hoping this gets you squared away. Glad you found the problem.

[chuckster57]

There is an open recall for “cruiser” brand products for “backwards” axles. We just did both axles on a trailer.

[Bostongone]

From post#36 I have to jump in here and say that this is not the correct way to adjust brakes!
This is what I was told to do by a big trailer/RV repair near Palm Springs Cal. First. Using a small bottle jack, jack up just one tire at a time (DO NOT JACK UP THE TRAILER) till it can spin freely (put the jack so it will be between the u-bolts on just one tire at a time). Now with the one tire clear off the ground go and pull the emergency break cord switch (MUST HAVE TRAILER BATTERY HOOKED UP) also having the trailer plugged in to 120 supply would keep the battery charged up while you do this to all wheels with breaks one at a time. I was told to readjust breaks so that they would still spin just a little while you try to turn them using a lot of your body force to turn them. I was told you want the trailer to help stop the truck without just locking up the breaks and just skidding.
Yes, you should raise each tire individually but the adjuster should be rotated to the point that wheel starts to drag and then the adjuster should be backed off until the drag stops with no voltage applied to the wheel. Then the brake controller can be the judge of how much voltage to apply to the magnets to provide the correct and necessary braking. If done the recommended way in post #36 the brake controller would have to apply full power and only get minimal (using a lot of your body force to turn them) stopping force.

[Campy]

Follow up report,... We took the 5er out to Branson and back and while brakes worked they did indeed get better the more they was used. They were a lot stronger when we got back towards Ohio than when we left. Going to check adjustment again before our next trip but I'm pleased they are now working properly!

[MarkEHansen]

Drum brakes have a break-in procedure you are supposed to follow to get the shoes to "seat" properly. If you google, you'll find a link to eTrailer.com which has a nice write up on this topic.