Trim nails or staples??

[Ksupaul]

Have some interior trim pieces coming down. What kind and size nails or staples are best to put these things back up? I would rather not glue them but seems like the current original fasteners don’t hold up too well. Any advice? Thanks all.

[ADQ K9]

I have a piece that I need to remount I think the original fastners were brads.

[JRTJH]

The factory uses a 20 ga stapler. They're available for about $30 on Amazon and a good investment if you do any small size woodwork. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ARJX0A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Freeman also has a 23 ga pin nailer that is exceptional for securing small wood/plastic items. It's a bit more expensive at $35. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002EVPO7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I find a dot of wood glue every 12" or so and a staple where needed to keep the trim flush will usually make for a permanent repair.

[jkohler70]

It's your choice. I keep some small brass finishing nails in my RV. I add some glue and then the small finishing nail. I've found they hold better than the original staples.

[rhagfo]

I carry both an air powered brad driver and stapler, for fixes and remodel projects.

[Logan X]

I have used my pneumatic brad nailer several times for small trim pieces. It seems to make a permanent repair and the nail heads are basically invisible.

[daveinaz]

Ditto on the pneumatic nailer -- I had bought one previously for putting on some baseboards in the house. It works perfect for reattaching trim in the 5er. My little Coleman compressor runs it just fine. Just be sure to adjust the "punch" of the nailer before using it on the trim -- if it's last setting was to punch through hardwood baseboards you may get quite a dent in your trim.

If you set it up right, it barely leaves a mark -- certainly less of a mark from my missing the nail and putting a hammer mark in the trim!

[Stircrazy]

if it is somewhere when I can put support against it I will use liquid nails to glue it on. if not I use a small gauge stapler with the staples that have glue on the shanks

Steve

[chuckster57]

We use 18g brad nailers. That way if you ever have to take a piece back off to access something it’s not a battle and it doesn’t tear the piece up in the process.

[nellie1289]

Revisiting this thread on the stapler John recommended above, how big of staples do you use for this ? 9/16" Just double checking as the link above took me to a 9/16" stapler.

[dutchmensport]

My current Montana High Country is held together with Liquid Nails (the original). Don't use the one for projects or for styrofoam. These variations do not hold up to water. The "original" Liquid Nails holds through anything and everything through any kind of weather.

I once used the original liquid nails to glue a turn signal mounted in the bumper of my Chevy S-10 when it fell out and the plastic tips that held it into the bumper broke off. I was too cheap to buy another one so, I pumped it full of Liquid Nails and drove that truck for another 9 years. That light holder never came off again!

[rhagfo]

The best part of using a pneumatic Brad driver will almost never split the wood being fastened

[nellie1289]

The best part of using a pneumatic Brad driver will almost never split the wood being fastened

Mind sharing a link on Amazon or something for something like This for us novices ?

[JRTJH]

Revisiting this thread on the stapler John recommended above, how big of staples do you use for this ? 9/16" Just double checking as the link above took me to a 9/16" stapler.

That link is to a "standard T-50" size stapler. I believe the 9/16" in the Amazon description may be the length of the sample staples that come with the stapler.

You can buy "standard T-50 staples" in packs of 1000 at any hardware store. They are available in lengths from 3/8", 1/2", 9/16" (probably the longest this stapler will accept and even 5/8" and 7/8"...

The description in the Amazon title is not the same as when I posted the link a couple years ago.

If I were buying "only one tool" I think I'd prefer the "pneumatic brad nailer" over the T-50 stapler. For RV use, the brad nailer is more functional and doesn't leave the "staple head" visible when you're finished. I use the stapler more for "hidden things like under the valence, for upholstery, holding the edges of vinyl or carpet, etc. I use the brad nailer for things like trim strips, reattaching shelves in cabinets, etc.

There are several good brad nailers, the one in my post in this thread has increased to about $60. There is a comparable "lower cost alternative" made by Arrow that you can find here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBVFQFK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00MBVFQFK&pd_rd_w=YQ0zr&pf_rd_p=91afecf5-8b2e-41e2-9f11-dc6992c6eaa1&pd_rd_wg=wuI7r&pf_rd_r=A3PCY7HQV71RDN2QYE17&pd_rd_r=7cb0a757-1dfb-4974-b258-c7d05d9ada37&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyOFZJU0cyOEhMSVJJJ mVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjIyMjM0MTNZVUhRWkRTUURPTCZlbmN yeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTI3NDM4UERZWUk5R1U0QjJJJndpZGdld E5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmR vTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

If it were me, I'd buy the brad nailer first and the stapler second, if you find a need for both.

[sourdough]

I have to agree. I suppose I have all the various framing, brad, finishing, fencing, stapler type pneumatic tools. You need to be very cognizant of what you are trying to do with a stapler because it will leave that bowed (or flat) top head arching across the 2 staple legs. That may or may not be desired or of consequence - when finishing a project the staples are not very pretty if visible.

When moving to a 23ga. brad nailer, those are tiny and there is reason they put bits of adhesive on the strips when using them. But in many cases a 16 or even 18ga. brad nailer has the same issues. On most types of RV trim that 23 ga. with some drops of adhesive is probably good. In plastic trim it probably won't matter a lot moving to 18ga. but it leaves a bigger hole. In hard wood you can/will split it if not careful. You also need to watch the psi you are using with the tool. It has a specific air pressure max and depending on what you are driving and the material you can either pop it right through it or the head never sinks.