Brake wiring problem?

[Hey Louie]

Today I was taking our 5th wheel to the dealer for some warranty work. The dealer is about 2 hours away from home. When I got about 1 mile from the dealer a ding came from the dash of my truck and every warning light related to the brakes was lit. The red light that comes on when the parking brake was on the ABS light, brake system warning light and Stabilitrak off light. Also the message to service the Stabilitrak and the service trailer brake message appeared. When I unhitched the warning. lights stayed on. Once I drove not even a mile down the road all the lights and messages cleared.

Once I got home I took the truck to the dealer, told them what happened. They checked it out and said everything appears to be fine with the truck. I then called the RV dealer and let them know so that they could check out the brakes/wiring system.

The truck is a 2016 Silverado 3500 with only 10k miles and the 5er is a 2019 Alpine 3700 purchased last spring.

My question would be has anyone had a similar experience? Would plugging in another camper to the truck verify if the problem is with the truck or the camper? Is it possible for either of the dealers to fix the problem without both of the vehicles present?

[Hey Louie]

I guess not

[Javi]

Not uncommon for the plug to wiggle a little bit, setting off the alarm.. check the fit and use a little dielectric grease.

[chuckster57]

Not uncommon for the plug to wiggle a little bit, setting off the alarm.. check the fit and use a little dielectric grease.



Yup!! Sometimes the blades in the umbilical cord will spread causing issues too. Easy to check trailer wiring, I have an “emulator” that I can plug into the TV.

[Hey Louie]

Update
Picked up the camper from the dealer today. They checked out the pigtail and said it was fine. Chevy dealer said everything seemed fine with the truck. Drove home about 100 miles and anything worked fine. I'm guessing the plug must have been a bit loose and caused the barrage of alerts.
Thanks for the help guys.

[+Ruff Rider]

The plug is the first place I look when things like this happen. Glad it was simple for you.

[Salt Life]

Hey Louie, hope it is fixed 4 good. I have brake problems too. In my case, I don't get a bunch of lights turning on just a couple messages. Check trailer brake wiring, trailer brake disconnected etc. It's sporadic. Can happen at any time. Drove thru Nashvillie w/o trailer brakes once. Fun times.

Worked fine from WI to the Gulf. Coming home they went
out in Montogmery AL. Was fine after all the way home.

Truck checked out fine. But it's a crapshoot if nothing is acting up. I carry a test light in hopes I can check the truck when I have issues.

Crossing my fingers 4 you....

Ps. I changed both plugs...

[Hey Louie]

Thanks Salt Life, we have a short trip this weekend that's close to home so we'll give it another test.
On my last truck , a 2004 Silverado, we blew some brake lines and used the trailer brake to make the last few miles to the campground. When the pedal goes to the floor it really gets the adrenaline flowing.

[Salt Life]

That is scary.....
It's been crazy how I can drive for hrs just fine and out of the blue it starts in.

[JRTJH]

I don't know whether the members with problems are using a silicone di-electric grease on the terminals or not. I've found over the years that corrosion and moisture are the two most common reasons for electrical connection problems with the 7 pin umbilical. A LIBERAL coating of di-electric grease applied often and maintained throughout the year (both when the trailer is being used and when it's in storage) will significantly reduce the "trailer disconnected" error message.

On Ford trucks, there have been some issues regarding the brand of connector on the truck not being compatible (different pin sizes) with Pollak umbilical sets, which are typically used by Keystone. So, on a few trailers (towed by Ford trucks) where the di-electric application hasn't worked, changing out the umbilical to a different brand has often solved the problem. I can't say it's the same situation with RAM or GM trucks, but I do know the di-electric compound has been a "tried and true fix" for many people with the error message problem.

[Salt Life]

Before I left the Gulf I did use dielectric grease. Maybe I need to use more. My RAM came from the factory 5th wheel equipped. I have 2 plugins, one in the box...

[JRTJH]

Before I left the Gulf I did use dielectric grease. Maybe I need to use more. My RAM came from the factory 5th wheel equipped. I have 2 plugins, one in the box...

I do not know what brand RAM uses for their OEM wiring. Ford uses a brand that has slightly larger contacts than are in the Pollak 7 pin connector. While they work "much of the time" moisture, corrosion and road vibrations can cause a "disconnect situation". The connectors are still "physically plugged together" but the electrical contacts inside stop making good electrical contact. Having two connectors, one inside the bed and one on the rear bumper is common with most fifth wheel options in all brands. My Fords have had them for years. It doesn't matter "where" the connector is located as much as "whether the two plugs, one on the truck and one on the trailer" are making good electrical contact. Often times they don't, and if cleaning, removing corrosion and using di-electric grease doesn't fix the problem, you may find that replacing the umbilical plug on the trailer is a solution. Why the trailer plug and not the truck plug? For me, it's easier to replace one (trailer) than two (truck) and much less actual labor involved in changing the plug while sitting on a stool under the trailer overhang rather than laying on a creeper under the truck bumper and then kneeling on my knees on the corrugated bed in the truck.

If you haven't used a brass brush (think 22 cal gun cleaning brass wire brush) to clean and remove the corrosion on the umbilical, followed by a "overly liberal big gob" of di-electric grease, I'd try that first, if you still have problems, cut to the chase and replace the trailer umbilical plug. I think those two processes will fix your problems "permanently".

[66joej]

As far as grease goes I think you want a product like Noalax which is a conductive grease. Dielectric grease does not help to conduct electricity. YMMV

[JRTJH]

As far as grease goes I think you want a product like Noalax which is a conductive grease. Dielectric grease does not help to conduct electricity. YMMV

If you use a conductive grease, be careful NOT to "glob it on" if you do, you'll have "bells and whistles" everywhere as things short out when you turn on the lights, a turn signal or apply the brakes..... BTDT. If a conductive grease is used, apply "very sparingly" and only inside the "holes" in the female receptacle......

ADDED: The last part of this article: https://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm discusses "conductive greases" and gives the rationale for where to use them, where NOT to use them and the "why" for both. A good read to support my position. Of course, I found it on the internet, so take that into account in whether you believe that electrical engineer or whether you choose not to believe him. IOW: YMMV

[Salt Life]

I dont think the plug is vibrating loose since the cap on the truck has a hook which holds the trailer plug in place.

I did replace the plug on the trailer. Maybe I need more grease....

[JRTJH]

I dont think the plug is vibrating loose since the cap on the truck has a hook which holds the trailer plug in place.

I did replace the plug on the trailer. Maybe I need more grease....

Corrosion inside the plug????? I'd clean things well and reapply a good glob of di-electric grease and see what happens. Also, it's possible that you bought the same brand "trailer connector"... If the connectors were too small and you replaced them with the same size..... Well, you get the idea, I'm sure.....

[66joej]

You are right John. A conductive grease is used to help fill the small voids between contacts and is not meant to be a sealer. That is what dielectric grease and vaseline is used for. As always read manufacturer's instructions.
I thought the problem here was a lack of conductivity. Sorry if I misled anyone.

Actually I speak from experience. Shortly after I received my trade certificate in the late 1960s I hired on with DHO (Dept of Hwys Ontario). My job because I was the "new kid on the block" was to overhaul the salt/sander units used for winter maintenance. Did this all summer. I learned a lot about 12 volt electricity. JMHO

[Salt Life]

Corrosion inside the plug????? I'd clean things well and reapply a good glob of di-electric grease and see what happens. Also, it's possible that you bought the same brand "trailer connector"... If the connectors were too small and you replaced them with the same size..... Well, you get the idea, I'm sure.....

No corrosion. I'll try more grease...

[Salt Life]

@hey louie
Didn't mean to hijack. Hope this is helping u too...