Truck opinions...

[Sandals 123]

Hello all, I am looking for opinions on a TV for my new 29RKS.

When we bought the 5th, we had a beautiful 2011 F150 but realized that we needed more truck. I traded it for a 2010 F350 with the 6.4ltr. It is a full load beautiful truck.... But...

I commute to work with my Ford CMax which leaves the F350 as a "run around" vehicle for my wife. The problem is that she is not getting the diesel engine up to temperature on her short trips, then, when I take it out, it goes into the "cleaning exhaust" mode and SMOKES so bad that I get embarrassed to be behind the wheel.

We are new to RVing and for the next couple of years are only planning weekend, local trips.

Should I be looking for a gas engine truck? Are the newer Ford 6.7 better? Other options?

Thanks for your help.

Alan

[hornet28]

If your wife is only running around local why not just buy a cheap car for her?

[Sandals 123]

Interesting idea.... Hadn't thought of having 3 cars in the driveway...

[LouieT]

It looks like the 29RKS gvwr is about 10,500 so a F250 6.2 gas would be perfect for your application. And get the 4:30’s instead of the 3:73’s for extra pulling power. Also that would be a great “run around” vehicle for your wife. Dump the 6.4 turd before she blows and makes you cry.

[Ranchhand]

The new 6.7 are better then the 6.4 but they are also not perfect. My truck that I drive at work is a 2012 F350 cab and chassis with a service body on it. As of today it has about 70000 miles on it with no EGR or DPF issues and it does a fair does a fair amount of idle time. Probably its saving grace is that it is about 15000 lbs loaded up so I think it gets warmed up enough to compensate for the idle time.

[Cbrez]

I’ve had two 6.7 diesels and had great towing performance from both. The F250 towed my 16000 GVW 5er like a champ through the Canadian Rockies, but I finally had to admit I was too overweight to continue towing with it. Now towing with an F350 DRW and hardly notice the 5er. Even DW is comfortable towing. 6.7 Will give you all the power you need.

[Sandals 123]

It looks like the 29RKS gvwr is about 10,500 so a F250 6.2 gas would be perfect for your application. And get the 4:30’s instead of the 3:73’s for extra pulling power. Also that would be a great “run around” vehicle for your wife. Dump the 6.4 turd before she blows and makes you cry.

OMG... I just spit my coffee out when I read your reply. A little "pre purchase" poking around would have made all the difference and I would have bought a 2011 or newer to get away from the Turd... Lol

I will watch for a 6.2 gas, but seem to be rare up here.

[MarkEHansen]

What's the harm in you driving the truck for your daily commute? We just upgraded to the truck in my sig and when I can't ride my M/C to work, I take the truck.

[Sandals 123]

What's the harm in you driving the truck for your daily commute? We just upgraded to the truck in my sig and when I can't ride my M/C to work, I take the truck.

That is another option too, thanks Mark. I commute with the electric so I can feel better about driving my truck.. Lol.

[vampress_me]

The problem is that she is not getting the diesel engine up to temperature on her short trips, then, when I take it out, it goes into the "cleaning exhaust" mode and SMOKES so bad that I get embarrassed to be behind the wheel.

I understand. Our 2009 F-350 would smoke on me during a certain part of the regen if I would step on the gas pedal at that time, like from a stop. It was crazy.

What about just designating one day (or two) a week that you take the truck to work so it gets a longer drive. This way, most of the time you can commute with your electric car, but the truck still gets out for more than a short drive at least one day a week. Hopefully that would help solve the issue without buying another vehicle.

[Sandals 123]

I understand. Our 2009 F-350 would smoke on me during a certain part of the regen if I would step on the gas pedal at that time, like from a stop. It was crazy.

What about just designating one day (or two) a week that you take the truck to work so it gets a longer drive. This way, most of the time you can commute with your electric car, but the truck still gets out for more than a short drive at least one day a week. Hopefully that would help solve the issue without buying another vehicle.

Hi Vamp, thanks for the reply. Your suggestion probably makes the most sense as I will not be out of pocket for the upgrade cost.

[Sandals 123]

Does anyone have an opinion on the 6.2 gas Vs the 6.4 diesel? Is the Duramax a better engine?

Thanks
Alan

[66joej]

Does anyone have an opinion on the 6.2 gas Vs the 6.4 diesel? Is the Duramax a better engine?

Thanks
Alan

Had a 2011 F250 6.2 gas and traded it for 2011 6.7. We, at that time, were towing a 11000# GVW 5er. Difference was night and day going up any hills the diesel was far and away the better truck. JMHO

[JRTJH]

IMHO (for what it's worth) ALL diesels need to be run for extended periods of time and they all do poorly if operated for "a mile or two and shut down"... It doesn't matter if it's a 6.0, 6.4, 6.7 (RAM or Ford) or a Duramax in any of their sizes. All diesels need to be run long enough to fully warm up and to "run through the regen cycle at highway speeds".

As for the Ford 6.2L, we had a F250 XLT supercab long bed with 3.73 axles and towed our 10K GVW Cougar XLite with a 18' bass boat behind the trailer and never had any problems feeling "underpowered". I will readily admit that there were a number of tanks that averaged 8-9 MPG, especially when towing in a headwind. Power, on the other hand, we never experienced any problems.

Back to the diesel, it's "abuse" to not get it fully warmed up and allow a complete regen cycle regularly. I'd either plan more camping trips or plan longer weekend use to keep that diesel happy.

[Ken / Claudia]

Here's my opinion, after having a 2008 6.8 4x4 CC work truck for about 40,000 miles. After I got home and parked it next to my 2001 7.3. I then drove my 7.3 at times minutes later and really the power was nearly the same, fuel mileage not so much.
The 7.3 has enough power at 275 hp and 525 lb torque, but that 6.8 at up to 360 hp and 457 lb of torque on the newer models is not far behind.
Either buy a older vehicle to use daily, keep the truck in the driveway as much as possible. That's what I do, I am not upset driving a old vehicle to/from work. Or test drive a 6.8 and form your own opinion.

[rhagfo]

Hello all, I am looking for opinions on a TV for my new 29RKS.

When we bought the 5th, we had a beautiful 2011 F150 but realized that we needed more truck. I traded it for a 2010 F350 with the 6.4ltr. It is a full load beautiful truck.... But...

I commute to work with my Ford CMax which leaves the F350 as a "run around" vehicle for my wife. The problem is that she is not getting the diesel engine up to temperature on her short trips, then, when I take it out, it goes into the "cleaning exhaust" mode and SMOKES so bad that I get embarrassed to be behind the wheel.

We are new to RVing and for the next couple of years are only planning weekend, local trips.

Should I be looking for a gas engine truck? Are the newer Ford 6.7 better? Other options?

Thanks for your help.

Alan

Well the way I look at it you have already made one mistake, the Ford 6.4, was not much better than the 6.0. Don't make a second mistake and go back to a gaser. You just bought a 10,400# GVWR 5er with only a 1,600# payload capacity.
The next 5er will likely be over 13,000# GVWR, a big load for a gas engine. Find your self a good 6.7.

[travelin texans]

[QUOTE=Sandals 123;330090] Is the Duramax a better engine?

In "my opinion" HELL YES! My '13 I never knew when it went into regen, no smoke or noticeable decrease in fuel mileage & it was our daily driver for 6 years.
Also in "my opinion" the Dmax/Allison is the #1 combo & Cummins/Aisin is #2, then that other one.

[FlyingAroundRV]

OMG... I just spit my coffee out when I read your reply. A little "pre purchase" poking around would have made all the difference and I would have bought a 2011 or newer to get away from the Turd... Lol

I will watch for a 6.2 gas, but seem to be rare up here.
We bought a 2015 6.2 gasser 250 and so far it seems to do a fine job. It pulls our Outback 272UFL just fine and when solo, it's not too rough or thirsty.
I went for the gasser because I read some not so great things about some of the diesels. Among other things, the existence of a whole "bulletproofing" industry to fix up some of the design faults put me right off. But in addition, we have a generator that runs on gas, so the truck and the genny run on the same fuel. Comes in handy if I ever run the truck too low I can get the genny gas out of the back to get me to the station ... Although I usually fill up at 1/4 tank.

[JRTJH]

[QUOTE=Sandals 123;330090] Is the Duramax a better engine?

In "my opinion" HELL YES! My '13 I never knew when it went into regen, no smoke or noticeable decrease in fuel mileage & it was our daily driver for 6 years.
Also in "my opinion" the Dmax/Allison is the #1 combo & Cummins/Aisin is #2, then that other one.

When comparing diesel engines, you failed to mention that the OP's experience with diesels is limited to the "previous era regen technology" and is not the same as your '13. You're comparing a DEF engine technology with a "pre-DEF" technology. Our engines, (your '13 GM and my '15 Ford) are apples and oranges different than the OP's "pre-DEF regeneration technology" His will smoke and let you know it's in regen, which is the reason for the advances in technology that our "DEF diesels" use. Ours are "designed to regen seamlessly" His isn't.....

[Fishsizzle]

I’m not overly familiar with the 2011-2016 Ford 6.7, but the current 17+ Generation has a manual regen you can have the dealer bring up as a selectable option. Higher end packages (platinum etc) its already in the menu. Come home, turn on manual regen and walk away I’m told. I haven’t programmed my truck to do it yet.

[JRTJH]

I’m not overly familiar with the 2011-2016 Ford 6.7, but the current 17+ Generation has a manual regen you can have the dealer bring up as a selectable option. Higher end packages (platinum etc) its already in the menu. Come home, turn on manual regen and walk away I’m told. I haven’t programmed my truck to do it yet.

That option is also available in the 2011-2016 Ford 6.7L diesels. It must be turned on by the dealer by using the Ford Rotunda update/reconfiguration software.

[MarkEHansen]

A Ford truck can really do the re-gen just sitting in the driveway? On my GMC, it says the truck must be at operating temperature - driving down the highway (for example).

[JRTJH]

A Ford truck can really do the re-gen just sitting in the driveway? On my GMC, it says the truck must be at operating temperature - driving down the highway (for example).

Yup. If the computer system is set to enable "operator commanded regeneration" then all you do is "click the buttons" and it starts. It'll do it while parked or while driving. Here's a bit of the explanation from the owner's manual:

"Once operator commanded regeneration starts, engine speed increases to
approximately 2000 rpm and the cooling fan speed increases. You will hear a
change in audible sound due to engine speed and cooling fan speed increases.
It is not necessary to open the hood on the engine compartment. Once operator commanded regeneration completes, the engine speed returns to normal idling. The exhaust system remains very hot for several minutes even after regeneration is complete. Do not reposition the vehicle over materials that could burn until the exhaust system has had sufficient time to cool. Depending on the amount of soot collected by the diesel particulate filter,
ambient temperature and altitude, operator commanded regeneration lasts
approximately 30 minutes."

[zoro58]

wait and by a 2020 chevy HD 3500 single wheel short box gasser wife will love it

[5J's]

I'm a diesel fan but, I've got no experience with a gas engine since the late 90's. I've owned two Ford 7.3's currently own a Ford 6.0 and drive one for work. The work truck has been within a couple of hundred pounds of GVWR its whole life. I've had very few problems with either of the 6.0's but I really like that 7.3. At work we rid our entire fleet of the 6.4's due to the problems we were having. I've heard the 6.7's are supposed to be great. I'm not a Dodge fan but, the Cummins is probably the best engine on the market. Before I bought my 6.0 I was really looking for a Dmax/Allison combo. I didn't want to deal with the DEF but, also didn't like the earlier body style of the Chevy line. I think if I were in your shoes I'd try to off the 6.4 and look for a Dmax or a 6.7. If that's not an option I'd look for a third vehicle. This is just my opinion Good luck.

[Wyldfire]

A Ford truck can really do the re-gen just sitting in the driveway? On my GMC, it says the truck must be at operating temperature - driving down the highway (for example).

Yeah a great thing to do early morning when the neighbors keep you up half the night partying.

[Laredo Tugger]

For the OP.
Where did "half ton tow-able" come from? My version,while not verified is,one day a lonely RV salesman was staring out his office window at vehicles passing on the adjacent interstate. He is counting every pick-up truck that drives by as a missed sale. Realizing he is not counting the half ton trucks, the light bulb above his head goes poof! And half ton tow-able is born. He now has a whole new market strategy.
So along comes Mister Half Ton Owner answering the ad for "half ton tow-able" and the games begin. Trying to find the correct TT or 5er to hitch up to and take to the road. Yes,some models exist and comply. That tilt point is the moving target on here.
I will admit that a half ton frame pick up truck is much more economical and comfortable than the larger frame 3/4 and one ton models. And when not towing it would be nice to have your TV double as a comfortable.efficient commuter. But after you put an RV of substantial size behind the half ton and load it with all of the items mentioned in previous (many previous on other threads as well) comments you are knocking on the door of limits for safe and efficient towing. I see it time and time again and I just hope nothing "gives" in the equation while this humble family travels down the road.especially in front of me on the highway.
What is my point? I believe I saw in these threads that your half ton is a Platinum model. That is the top of the line Ford package for pick-ups if I am not mistaken. In short the value of your 2017 should translate into the purchasing power for a F250 with less trim (and more payload) without taking to much of a loss. Maybe even a nice used diesel.
No I am not an expert in vehicle trade or towing combinations. But after seeing this problem (half ton towing) appear on the pages over and over I thought I would just offer another opinion.
RMc

[wiredgeorge]

Does anyone have an opinion on the 6.2 gas Vs the 6.4 diesel? Is the Duramax a better engine?

Thanks
Alan


The 6.4L diesel is widely recognized as one of the most problematic engines ever put together by Ford as it shares most all the issues of the 6.0L and parts are a bunch more expensive. This is why you see Super Duty models with this engine going for what appears to be great pricing compared to the older 7.3L or new 6.7L. I would prefer a gas engine due to less complication and would go with the 6.2L but that flies against the majority opinion of folks on this board. If you plan on towing A LOT and have the extra cash, the diesel might make sense but if you camp once a month and the engine is up to the task, gas seems to me a better choice.

[spicercars]

Make sure you buy something big enough to handle the weight.

[labman]

This ought to do it. https://www.kenworth.com/trucks/t800/

[ADQ K9]

The T800 might be a little overkill make sure it has an air ride 5th wheel or the pin box will come off the trailer.

[Sandals 123]

This ought to do it. https://www.kenworth.com/trucks/t800/

Hahaha... In the long run that is probably the best option!

While struggling with finding an affordable replacement for the 2010 6.4, I contact a client of mine who runs a diesel specialty shop. He has suggested completing a EGR delete and a DPF delete. He said they do these all the time and it makes the engine last longer, inceases power and eliminates the horrible "smoke" issue.

Anyone on here have any experience with this process?

Thanks
Alan

[Fishsizzle]

Hahaha... In the long run that is probably the best option!

While struggling with finding an affordable replacement for the 2010 6.4, I contact a client of mine who runs a diesel specialty shop. He has suggested completing a EGR delete and a DPF delete. He said they do these all the time and it makes the engine last longer, inceases power and eliminates the horrible "smoke" issue.

Anyone on here have any experience with this process?

Thanks
Alan

Yep, my 6.4 was insane after EGR and DPF delete. Even in tow Tune it would just roast the tires. Had soooo much power. Other problems are still around.

Oil cooler: ford gold coolant clogs the cooler. Best to flush with fleet rite system. Did it to mine and could not believe the gunk that came out. Took a couple days to complete. I’d throw on a coolant filter to catch the gunk. I had big wads of Alge in mine. Had a CTS2 to monitor the oil vs coolant temps. Need to stay within a set amount of degrees between them.

Rocker arms. The arms do double duty. They are bridged and therefor take a lot of punishment. The worst thing part is the tips. They are a separate piece and come off. Thus they break and can be sucked in if they break down small enough. They are cheap to buy and somewhat easy to install.

Radiator: Bad Bad Bad. Plastic ends warp with flex of body and they come apart, Mishimoto makes an awesome replacement and a stronger core support brace that fixed it,

I put on new radiator pipes. Earlier builds (08) had bad o-rings. Intercooler boots blow, riffraff diesel makes great reaplcements. I put on new Intercooler tubes as cold side is smashed flat from factory.

I had a lot of fun with my 6.4 I was sad when it met its death.

[Sandals 123]

Awesome, thank Fish! Too bad about your truck :(

The reason I am considering these upgrades are that my truck only has 70,000 km, and it is a beautiful truck. To replace it would make me out of pocket another $20-30k.

This diesel shop is so knowledgeable and focused on fixing factory issues that I am sure that they will know about the other issues.

[Fishsizzle]

Awesome, thank Fish! Too bad about your truck :(

The reason I am considering these upgrades are that my truck only has 70,000 km, and it is a beautiful truck. To replace it would make me out of pocket another $20-30k.

This diesel shop is so knowledgeable and focused on fixing factory issues that I am sure that they will know about the other issues.

Sweet truck! I miss mine a lot. I have a new 6.7, but don’t dare delete with warranty in place. You will love it deleted and tuned.

At the very least, I strongly recommend the coolant flush and replace with long life antifreeze. There are many articles and sites showing how it’s done. Search for clogged oil coolers 6.4 and you’ll see pics of what Ford Gold antifreeze does to the cooler.

Report back and let me me know how you like it. I’ll Live vicariously through your truck

Justin

[travelin texans]

The best upgrade to the 6.0 or 6.4 Powerstroke is a Duramax wrapped in a GMC/Chevy or Cummins wrapped in a Ram.

[Javi]

The best upgrade to the 6.0 or 6.4 Powerstroke is a Duramax wrapped in a GMC/Chevy or Cummins wrapped in a Ram.The 6.7 Ford is just fine..

[Fishsizzle]

The 6.7 Ford is just fine..

Agree. 6.7 has been a big win for Ford. It was a great move for them to take their engines “in house” and build them themselves.

[labman]

humbug. wish I had gone with gm, now i'm stuck with a 6.7

[Roscommon48]

don't think that buying a 6.7 will solve your issues. I have a 2015 that regens all the time. and so far I've had to have the def container cleaned out because of it being 'dirty'.
just use 'manual' and run your truck once a week at 2000rpm, 3rd gear for about 20 minutes...that may help.


I will probably go back to GMC on my next truck.

[Javi]

I'm pushing 60K on my '15 F350 dually and I've never had a problem with excessive regeneration and use 2 1/2 gallons of DEF per 3K on average.

I drive this truck daily to and from work a total of 14 miles a day round trip. Most weekends we'll average 100 miles on the highway.

In the 4 years I've owned this truck I've seen the DRIVE TO CLEAN EXHAUST warning twice and both times a twenty minute drive on the highway took care of it.

I'm 70 years old and work 50 hours a week but I'm not put out by having to spend 20 minutes every two years driving to clean the exhaust system..

Hope I never get that busy...

[fable081]

I just did what Laredo Tugger referenced. I had a 2017 F 150 Lariat loaded with everything including retractable running boards but the problem with having a loaded truck was the cargo capacity was not near enough for the pin weight and passengers (including dogs) and traded it in for a less equipped 2017 F250 6.7l . Have only had it for 1 week but the mileage is slightly better with the 250. I now have more power and a significant increase in cargo capacity (7070 lbs to 9900) and to be honest feel much safer.

[JRTJH]

I just did what Laredo Tugger referenced. I had a 2017 F 150 Lariat loaded with everything including retractable running boards but the problem with having a loaded truck was the cargo capacity was not near enough for the pin weight and passengers (including dogs) and traded it in for a less equipped 2017 F250 6.7l . Have only had it for 1 week but the mileage is slightly better with the 250. I now have more power and a significant increase in cargo capacity (7070 lbs to 9900) and to be honest feel much safer.

That's the GVW of the truck and has only a little to do with ability to carry payload. A F150 with a curb weight of 4500 pounds and a GVW of 7070 pounds (payload of 2570) can carry significantly more than a F250 diesel that weighs 8100 pounds with a GVW of 9900 pounds (payload of 1800 pounds).

You've got to "run all the numbers" and not just look at the GVW.

[77cruiser]

That's the GVW of the truck and has only a little to do with ability to carry payload. A F150 with a curb weight of 4500 pounds and a GVW of 7070 pounds (payload of 2570) can carry significantly more than a F250 diesel that weighs 8100 pounds with a GVW of 9900 pounds (payload of 1800 pounds).

You've got to "run all the numbers" and not just look at the GVW.


What would you rather pull a 14K trailer with?

[MarkEHansen]

If you're over the payload, then you're into the "test pilot" zone. I would rather have a truck that can accommodate my trailer safely.

[Laredo Tugger]

Fortunately I do not think the trailer fable081 has is too much for the TV he selected. Yes there is a differential in payload,but overall his frame,brakes and power are well suited for his trailer. Not that is is right, but I have seen many 250/2500 diesels pulling way more trailer than that down the highway. Way more!
If you look at the signatures of different post on here, you will see combinations very similar to yours. So is he OK?
RMc

[Sandals 123]

It does appear that there are common issues with the use of a diesel engine in a non-commercial truck, these engines are meant to be put to work and are less efficient as domestic run-around units.

Because my truck is definitely off warranty, I am going to have the Deletes done and I will report back. My goals are slightly better fuel economy and FAR less smoke (added Horsepower a bonus too). I will report back once I get the work done and some miles logged.

Thanks
Alan

[JRTJH]

What would you rather pull a 14K trailer with?

I'd first question: PULL or TOW ????

As for me, I'd prefer to TOW a 14K trailer with a truck that's rated in ALL categories, GVW, Payload, RAWR, FAWR, GCWR. As for "PULL" you can do that with a 2005 Ranger V-6.

I was simply stating that "just because the GVW is greater doesn't mean that the truck is "better suited to tow". ALL of the ratings need to be considered, not just GVW.

I tow a 27RKS, a smaller version of the 28RKS that's smaller, has less "empty pin weight" and is 1000 pounds lighter. I tow with a F250 diesel and can tell you that if I'm not careful I can easily exceed my truck payload and GVW.

To answer your question: I'd prefer to tow with an adequately rated tow vehicle, not one that's "bigger than my last truck so it must be OK".... Many "bigger trucks" are still "too damned little for the job".... YMMV

A F250 diesel (heavily optioned model) can easily be overloaded with a "half ton fifth wheel". In fact, the 28RKS "empty pin weight" of 1745, by the time you add propane and batteries will approach the payload of a 2016 King Ranch F250 and if you add a passenger to the 2017 King Ranch model, you'll be "at GVW" and that's before adding any cargo to the truck or the trailer. So, I'd prefer not to tow that 10K fifth wheel with a F250. As for a 14K trailer, well, the answer should be obvious. Again, YMMV

[77cruiser]

I don't push it except when backing up, mostly pulling on it.:rolleyes:

[JRTJH]

I don't push it except when backing up, mostly pulling on it.:rolleyes:

Half the world's comedians are looking for work and your audition, well, don't quit your day job....Obviously you've completely missed the entire point, so, there's certainly no need for me to continue wasting any more time. I hope you figure it out, eventually..... :facepalm::

[77cruiser]

Wasn't trying to be funny. Don't have a day job did my duty days & nights. Got it figure out I'm fine.

[fable081]

Tried to post around noon today but obviously it did not take.

JRTH I agree with your comments ref the GVW and I should have expanded my post to clarify.
My 150 Lariat had a Curb Weight of 5600 lbs and a GVW of 7070 which only gave me a payload off 1,470 bs. I was overweight by 850 lbs.

My 250 was a special order XLT bare bones but with the 6.7l and is 6477 Curb with a GVW off 9900 for a 3,423 payload. And you are also correct that the weight in the 28 RKS sneaks up really fast if you are not watching what you are doing . My last Pin weight was 1973 lbs and the RV was 9500 lbs which is 20%.

I do appreciate the comments received especially from senior members who have been doing this for a long time. I have reaped more than I have sown from this site and hopefully someday I will be in a position to return the solid advice.

Thanks everyone for the input and my apologies if the original post may have been hijacked a bit with my original post.
Regards
Chuck

[HitFactor]

How did this turn into the forum weight police thread? Complete with a temper tantrum?

[rhagfo]

What would you rather pull a 14K trailer with?

Tried to post around noon today but obviously it did not take.

JRTH I agree with your comments ref the GVW and I should have expanded my post to clarify.
My 150 Lariat had a Curb Weight of 5600 lbs and a GVW of 7070 which only gave me a payload off 1,470 bs. I was overweight by 850 lbs.

My 250 was a special order XLT bare bones but with the 6.7l and is 6477 Curb with a GVW off 9900 for a 3,423 payload. And you are also correct that the weight in the 28 RKS sneaks up really fast if you are not watching what you are doing . My last Pin weight was 1973 lbs and the RV was 9500 lbs which is 20%.

I do appreciate the comments received especially from senior members who have been doing this for a long time. I have reaped more than I have sown from this site and hopefully someday I will be in a position to return the solid advice.

Thanks everyone for the input and my apologies if the original post may have been hijacked a bit with my original post.
Regards
Chuck

What would I rather tow a 14,000# 5er with? I would chose at minimum a 350/3500 SRW, with some nice options.

To Fable081, why not just order a nicely optioned F350 SRW, that can have a max GVWR of 11,500#? I will for the life of me not understand peoples obsession with buying a 3/4 ton Diesel for towing a 5er, they just don't have the payload.
In addition Fable081, is 3,423# the payload listed on the payload sticker on the new truck? I know that Ford uses a lot of aluminum in their trucks, but 6,477# seems very light for a F250, even bare bones.

[CaptnJohn]

If never going to tow over 10,000# a gasser will struggle on big hills but will work. The 6.0 and 6.4 engines Ford bought from others were never a good idea. A delete is expensive if complete and done correct, not really worth it in fuel savings (about 0). That money would be better spend on a newer engine. When it comes to trade no dealer will take it unless nearly free to send to auction. The emission items are required by federal law. In at least CA deleted will not pass the smog test, not a test in many states.
I had the chore of driving my neighbors 2018 GMC 3500 pulling 12,700# over 1650 miles. I'd not trade him for my 2016 F350 with over 80,000 miles on the odometer. The GMC got a very little better mileage single, my F350 gets better towing 2000# more weight ~ also a full profile vs mid profile. The GMC did seem to have a little stronger engine brake but nothing else was impressive.

[ADQ K9]

As a commerical driver I will throw in my 2 cents. If I were to get a Fiver I would have a DRW truck. A heavier tow vehicle will always be the safer option IMO Yes you can do it with a SRW if you are within the weight limits of the truck, you just gotta do the math.

[Whit66]

What is the ride like with your DRW compared to the SRW?

[rhagfo]

What is the ride like with your DRW compared to the SRW?

Well the ride of our 2016 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW, is about the same as our 2001 2500, maybe a bit softer.

[Whit66]

Thanks for that info, I have a 2014 F250 6.7 I would love to be able to manually regen

[Whit66]

I thought I had to be driving down the road at about 40 mph... or so,,, this is good news

[Fishsizzle]

I thought I had to be driving down the road at about 40 mph... or so,,, this is good news

Will regen at any speed going down the road. Just need 55+ to get temps hot enough to blow filter out