Mystery beeping sound

[Alaskaman]

Purchased a new Carbon 417 last fall, never been on the road yet. Today while shoveling snow at the front of the unit there is an audible beep every ten seconds. I can hear it clearly in the LP cabinet and battery compartment but cannot find the source.


I called the dealer, he thought perhaps the batteries were low....I keep it plugged into AC power full time, except for perhaps the last week it was left unplugged for about a week. I disconnected the battery + jumper, the beep continues.


the only thing on in the 5er is a fuel station warning that it's low on fuel, I cannot figure out how to disable it, pulled fuses in the main panel, it stays lit.


Any thoughts on the beep and how to turn off the low fuel level light in the control panel?


The documentation that came with this brand new toy hauler is next to worthless. Talking to the dealer he says that's it, there is no serious documentation on these, only for the fridge and AC units.


Thanks

[Steveo57]

So there's no power at all to the trailer now? No battery and no shore power? The Propane leak detectors will beep if the battery is low but if there's no power the only thing I can think of is a 9 volt battery powered smoke or CO detector.

And not sure how you could have a low fuel light on a panel if there's no power?

[Alaskaman]

The trailer is plugged into shore power. the low fuel light is on when the batteries are connected.


When I noticed the beeping, the shore power was disconnected and had probably been for a week.


It has been plugged back into shore power for about 8 hours, the beeping is still happening and I cannot locate the source. It's dark and butt cold outside right now to checking voltage will have to wait for daylight.



If I can't find a reason here I'll remove the batteries (2-12V), bring them in the house and charge them. I don't know if my trickle charger will charger them both while they're connected.

[chuckster57]

I’m thinking it’s the smoke alarm.

[Alaskaman]

I Know, I felt the same way, except this beep is definitely in a comparrment heard from outside. Inside you can barely hear the beep. It’s loudest in the LP soace and batteey compartment up front.

Thanks

[hankpage]

Smoke or CO alarms for sure. I removed mine during storage because the extreme cold would weaken the batteries. One is 9v and the other is AAs, both act up under 30F. Since the trailer is not occupied there should be no problem leaving them laying on the entrance floor with batteries out. This way you remember to reinstall them before occupying the trailer. JM2¢, Hank

[Steveo57]

I'm going with the propane leak detector. I think the batteries are dead and we all know those detectors will beep when the voltage is low.

[Alaskaman]

Thanks Hank, problem is rhe beep cam barwly be heard inside the coach in all spaces, and it’s loud outside and in rhe two outside compartments

[Steveo57]

If you had it unplugged for a week the batteries most likely went dead. If you're in Alaska they may have frozen then and not going to charge back up very well. If you get them inside you'll be able to check that out, get them defrosted and check the voltage. Don't know how well a frozen battery recovers.

[Alaskaman]

Looks like the problem was with the Level UP system. Batteries were fully charged. The Level Up screen was lit but no text and no button functions. In the compartment I found two inline fuses, upper left corner, pulled them both, they were good. When inserting the last one, a 7.5A, the level up module started flashing red on all four corners, the screen came on with text, now all seems fine.


We've had a couple of power outages recently, so thinking the module had a hiccup or something. Why it would have a lighted screen with no text or functions is beyond me.


Thanks to every one for your input, great site. :)

[daveinaz]

Glad you figured it out!

[ChuckS]

I’ve had the same problem occur when plugged into shore power and we experience a power surge at the house...

You may find next time you use your six point level up it won’t auto level correctly...if so just level manually and then recalibrate the auto level.

Also..in your front compartment located up high you will find the control module to the Lippert system...you can simply disconnect the single red wire connection on the control module “indicated with yellow arrow” and wait a minute and plug back in..

This will reset both the control module and the control panel...power to everything comes from this single red wire that is wired directly to battery and will have an inline fuse near the batteries as well..

One more issue you may experience when you go to use the RV when weather permits is your thermostat may not function right...If so simplly do a reset on the thermostat..

If you have the in command system that also may have issues and require a BCM reset..

Pic of level up control module and power wire location.....

[Jseitz]

Ditto on the glad you figured it out. I am amazed at how much knowledge is shared by all of the great folks on this forum! I learn something new and helpful every day!

[JRTJH]

Power surges while plugged into shore power causing the leveling system to "blank out" ??? Any chance there's an EMS in either of those RV's ??? If not, you're looking at substantially more cost (replacement control boards, TV's, microwave and converter than the $200 cost of a quality EMS. DON'T BUY A CHEAP SURGE DEVICE, rather look for a quality electrical systems monitor device (EMS). If you don't have one, you're very lucky that no permanent damage was done..... this time.... With the quality of the electrical grid these days, you may not be as fortunate next time there's a lightening storm or a power surge/brownout while you're plugged into shore power.....

[HitFactor]

...With the quality of the electrical grid these days...

The quality of the grid is much higher than it used to be. A lot was learned from the blackout in the northeast, cyber security, and the Fukushima disaster.

Projects to increase the reliability of the grid are coming to an end. The benefits are real and in place. The cyber security is better everyday.

[JRTJH]

The quality of the grid is much higher than it used to be. A lot was learned from the blackout in the northeast, cyber security, and the Fukushima disaster.

Projects to increase the reliability of the grid are coming to an end. The benefits are real and in place. The cyber security is better everyday.

None of that has anything to do with protecting your delicate RV electronics from a brownout, a power surge, spike in voltage or a lightening strike. EMS protection is a "first mod" for many who buy a new RV. If you don't have one and you suspect a "power surge caused your leveling system to blank out"... well, enough said about the reliability of the grid......

[HitFactor]

... from a brownout, a power surge, spike in voltage ....

It does exactly that.

There are hazards, I'm not denying that at all. Just trying to help with accurately describing where the hazards are.

[Old Mustanger]

I always use a portable EMS (SurgeGaurd) but when connected to 15A at home using a pigtail that has the 50A female receptacle that plugs into the trailer and the 15A male plug that connects to the cord from the house on the other, I can't figure a way to use it. Any suggestions :ermm:

[ChuckS]

I too have an RV that uses 50 amp service..when at home I am using a pigtail adapter to provide AC t9 unit to run just the converter.

My level up system blanked out and started beeping due to a POWER flicker.. it’s what caused the issue and nothing else..

I have and use a darn good EMS for 50 amp service...not the hard wired style..

I will look into an in expensive EMs for use at home.. but after six years of keeping it this way at my house when not in use I’m not gonna spend $200 for an EMS just at the house...

And yes..l we had a flicker and then blackout for about 4 hours when my issue arose... was it caused by that? YES

[Furb]

Purchased a new Carbon 417 last fall, never been on the road yet. Today while shoveling snow at the front of the unit there is an audible beep every ten seconds. I can hear it clearly in the LP cabinet and battery compartment but cannot find the source.


I called the dealer, he thought perhaps the batteries were low....I keep it plugged into AC power full time, except for perhaps the last week it was left unplugged for about a week. I disconnected the battery + jumper, the beep continues.


the only thing on in the 5er is a fuel station warning that it's low on fuel, I cannot figure out how to disable it, pulled fuses in the main panel, it stays lit.



Any thoughts on the beep and how to turn off the low fuel level light in the control panel?


The documentation that came with this brand new toy hauler is next to worthless. Talking to the dealer he says that's it, there is no serious documentation on these, only for the fridge and AC units
Thanks

Lp detector. Same problem, ordered new on amazon and problem fixed.

[Furb]

Lp detector, usually hardwired. My Northernlite camper just did the same thing. The detectors only last about 4 yrs according to the manufacturer. Ordered a new one on amazon and problem fixed. Just make sure to order the same model number.

[Genek]

Yes...it’s the Level Up system. You can hear the beep in the storage compartment since the beeper is on the backside of the LCI Level Up unit. Been there.

[Travelinlou]

I know what you mean. Keystone only supports the frame, every item is from a separate vender with little or no documents to reference.

That said, on my Impact 311 toy hauler, the LP GAS alarm goes off (beeping) when the batteries drop voltage after a week in storage by my shop. If it’s like mine, it’s black and you only see the light and hear the alarm because it’s atfloor Level. I had to get down on the floor with a good flashlight to see the reset button. It is flush to front of unit and has to be pressed to stop the alarm. You would think they would at least highlight the alarm reset instructions and button in white, but they do not. I used white paint and carefully highlighted these areas. Hopefully this is what is making the alarm beeping.

[sourdough]

The quality of the grid is much higher than it used to be. A lot was learned from the blackout in the northeast, cyber security, and the Fukushima disaster.

Projects to increase the reliability of the grid are coming to an end. The benefits are real and in place. The cyber security is better everyday.


Sorry, I missed this. Remember that the "grid", when in a campground, includes the facilities in the campground as far as the RVer is concerned; some maintained by professionals, many ran by the "seat of the pants" owners.

[HitFactor]

Sorry, I missed this. Remember that the "grid", when in a campground, includes the facilities in the campground as far as the RVer is concerned; some maintained by professionals, many ran by the "seat of the pants" owners.I work at a power plant, my view of the grid is different. I didn't really think about what happens after the meter.

[JRTJH]

I work at a power plant, my view of the grid is different. I didn't really think about what happens after the meter.

What happens after the meter (and from posts on this and most other RV forums) can destroy an RV electrical system in just a couple of seconds. Plugging in a 120 VAC, 30 amp RV plug into a 240 VAC 30 amp dryer plug can literally burn your trailer to the ground. There are members of this forum who have "suffered the consequences" of such a situation.

Then there's the "missing neutral", the reverse wired plug, the hot skin, overloaded wiring (voltage drop) that burns up an air conditioner compressor, power surges that destroy solid state electronic devices, lightening strikes to systems that aren't protected because the campground owner "cheaped out" when wiring his campground system.... There is a real need for most RV'ers to protect their $20K+ investment, although in most cases, if you do burn it to the ground, your insurance will pay to replace it, minus your deductible, which in most cases is at least double or triple the cost of a quality EMS system which would have prevented the problem and the loss.

[HitFactor]

What happens after the meter (and from posts on this and most other RV forums) can destroy an RV electrical system in just a couple of seconds. Plugging in a 120 VAC, 30 amp RV plug into a 240 VAC 30 amp dryer plug can literally burn your trailer to the ground. There are members of this forum who have "suffered the consequences" of such a situation.



Then there's the "missing neutral", the reverse wired plug, the hot skin, overloaded wiring (voltage drop) that burns up an air conditioner compressor, power surges that destroy solid state electronic devices, lightening strikes to systems that aren't protected because the campground owner "cheaped out" when wiring his campground system.... There is a real need for most RV'ers to protect their $20K+ investment, although in most cases, if you do burn it to the ground, your insurance will pay to replace it, minus your deductible, which in most cases is at least double or triple the cost of a quality EMS system which would have prevented the problem and the loss.

Got it, the grid isn't the culprit, it's all the other things you listed.

Standard surge protectors won't help with low voltage. Some are available with brownout protection, it cuts power to the appliance when voltage drops. In RV context that's usually the air conditioner. Anything with an electric motor is prone to overheat when voltage is lower than specified .

I recommend a surge protection device that provides diagnostic information. Read the indicators when the connection is made. If anything is abnormal, immediately disconnect. Head up to the office and let them know about the problem.

[JRTJH]

Got it, the grid isn't the culprit, it's all the other things you listed.

Standard surge protectors won't help with low voltage. Some are available with brownout protection, it cuts power to the appliance when voltage drops. In RV context that's usually the air conditioner. Anything with an electric motor is prone to overheat when voltage is lower than specified .

I recommend a surge protection device that provides diagnostic information. Read the indicators when the connection is made. If anything is abnormal, immediately disconnect. Head up to the office and let them know about the problem.

That device is called an EMS and what I initially suggested that every RV owner should install in his/her RV.....

[Genek]

That’s exactly what I had installed before I left the lot after purchasing the Montana 5r. There’s a 2 minute delay and a read out of voltage and errors on the wall. Worth every penny and it won’t ever get stolen, forgotten or lost in the storage area,