Tire upgrade

[waltheraustin]

So I had another blowout today. This is the 2nd in 3 trips. Thinking about swapping all of the tires for a better load rating tire but I hear that the wheel may not be up for more psi. Where do I find out wheel info? There are small generic steel tires without any info listed.

What are your recommendations for better tires?

Changing tires next to a busy highway isn't a good time. Damn thing gets pushed when something goes by at 80! Little nerve wracking!

[Tbos]

Blowouts are no fun. Been there done that. When I upgraded the tires on my previous TT I went with Carlisle Radial Trail HD and increased the load rating but stayed with the same size. If you do that make sure your rims can handle the extra load and air pressure too.

[MarkEHansen]

As mentioned in a previous thread, the load rating of the wheel should be stamped on the back-side of the wheel. What size wheels are they" 14", 15", 16"?

[waltheraustin]

As mentioned in a previous thread, the load rating of the wheel should be stamped on the back-side of the wheel. What size wheels are they" 14", 15", 16"?I'll look again but I don't recall seeing any wording. I think they are 14s

[JRTJH]

Most aluminum wheels are have markings cast on the back of the spokes. On steel wheels, it's not quite that easy to find. Sometimes there's markings on the edge of the rim, often near the valve stem. Unfortunately, on many steel wheels, all the information is INSIDE, on the wheel rim, and the tire must be removed to view it. Why? you ask??? Seems it's to make it harder for the owner, but that's not the reason. It has more to do with rust/corrosion on steel wheels making the ID markings hard to see, or even rusting away, and the inside of the wheel is the "safest place" to preserve markings.... Hard to find, but last a long time.......

[waltheraustin]

Perfect, with my blown out tire I should be able to find it. Thanks! Hopefully the rim is good. I believe the last one had me riding on it for a bit and it was fine. Those things are tough!

Thanks again!

[The John]

Blowouts are no fun. Been there done that. When I upgraded the tires on my previous TT I went with Carlisle Radial Trail HD and increased the load rating but stayed with the same size. If you do that make sure your rims can handle the extra load and air pressure too.

I have these tires on my outback and have liked them so far (2 years).

[ken56]

My Laredo came with Trailer Kings. I put about 3k miles on them before I noticed the sidewall bulges. Went as soon as I could to Discount Tire and had Goodyear endurance put on. Upped the load rating but stayed with the same size seeing it was available. I noticed the Endurance were more stable when towing very quickly, less sidewall flex.

[waltheraustin]

My Laredo came with Trailer Kings. I put about 3k miles on them before I noticed the sidewall bulges. Went as soon as I could to Discount Tire and had Goodyear endurance put on. Upped the load rating but stayed with the same size seeing it was available. I noticed the Endurance were more stable when towing very quickly, less sidewall flex.The sidewalls look kinda bad so a new set it is!

[Northofu1]

I'm not sure how many miles my trailer had seen before my purchase, I put 8k km's on the Trailer King C rated in a single trip and they lost no air. They still look perfect, but, this is the 5 yr mark and I am replacing them with the Carlisle Radial Trail HD D's.
Spring is around the corner :D

[waltheraustin]

I'm not sure how many miles my trailer had seen before my purchase, I put 8k km's on the Trailer King C rated in a single trip and they lost no air. They still look perfect, but, this is the 5 yr mark and I am replacing them with the Carlisle Radial Trail HD D's.
Spring is around the corner :DThat would be great to not lose any air. I'm constantly topping them off before going or coming.

[Northofu1]

I used the trailer a fair bit, I did not have to add air all summer / early fall. Guess I was lucky?

[acooper1983]

Hi guys, this is my first post here. i made an account to post in this thread. A good friend of mine owns a very large tire shop, i was talking to him about trailer tires for my large TT. He recommended Gladiator Qr25-ts He's got hotshot guys that have 100,000mi on a set of them. They're also N speed rated, so (87mph) The best part is, for my size (225/75/15) theyre VERY inexpensive, less than 90$ a tire. I asked him how they fair vs something like the goodyear endurance, His comment was, that he would take the gladiator every day and twice on sunday, They are an offshore tire, but their quality is phenomenal apparently. Just thought that i would let you know about a good quality tire for a honest price.

[CWtheMan]

Hi guys, this is my first post here. i made an account to post in this thread. A good friend of mine owns a very large tire shop, i was talking to him about trailer tires for my large TT. He recommended Gladiator Qr25-ts He's got hotshot guys that have 100,000mi on a set of them. They're also N speed rated, so (87mph) The best part is, for my size (225/75/15) theyre VERY inexpensive, less than 90$ a tire. I asked him how they fair vs something like the goodyear endurance, His comment was, that he would take the gladiator every day and twice on sunday, They are an offshore tire, but their quality is phenomenal apparently. Just thought that i would let you know about a good quality tire for a honest price.

They have a full line-up including many of the new sizes.

Warranty; 2 years from date of manufacturer.

http://gladiatortires.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/Gladiator_ST_Nov_2018_Web.pdf

[waltheraustin]

Picked up Goodyear endurance d rated tires at discount tire. Drive home was nice! Very smooth and didn't feel any sway for the most part at 65. I saw these tires are rated for faster speeds but 65-70 will be where I stay probably the lower end of that

[goodellj]

I struggled with the E-rated tires that came on my Montana 3750RL 5th wheel. I was getting about 8 thousand miles on each tire and couldn't understand why they were wearing out. Fortunately I invested in a tire pressure monitoring system which gave me some warning for slow leaks, which were happening every time belts started to break. A tire would lose a couple of pounds pressure over 24 hours, and if I looked hard enough I could find a bulge on the sidewall or a worn out spot on the tread surface, both indicating broken belts and future blowout.

The fully loaded camper was under it's GVWR, but only by about 10%. The tires were rated for 3,750lbs and when you deduct the tongue weight I thought I was well under the weight limit for the tires. I kept asking advice from tire shop managers every time I bought a new tire. I started carrying 2 extra unmounted tires on every trip, which for us included a 6,000 mile round trip from CT to AZ each winter. I was using one tire on the trip out and the other on the trip back for 2 years in a row.

Finally a tire guy said that I should have a bigger 'reserve', meaning that I was running too close to the weight limits for the tires. I could switch from the E rated 3,750lb tires to G rated 4,000lb tires without replacing the wheels. The actual tires were Gladiators model G4 ST235/85R16. It may not be a lot more weight capacity but it has made a huge difference. I switched in August 2016 and haven't had a problem since. I still watch my pressures closely and do a thorough inspection for wear and bulges before every trip.

A lot of these postings explain the problem they are having with their tires but they are leaving out the weight of the trailer and the ratings of their tires. Every time I read these I think that rather than talk about cheap brands and China-bombs, we should be talking about weights, ratings, and inflation pressures.

[efrulla]

Not sure what is on my 2017 Cougar X-Lite but I am putting a set of Goodyear Endurance Tires on it as soon as it is out of winter storage. Have not had any problems yet and plan on not having any.

[crk112]

My Hideout came with Karrier Load Stars. 205/75R14 load range C, two axles. If I use 625lbs tongue weight then all four tires are within 15lbs of GVWR of the trailer which is 7650. I have about 2000mi on them. I’m very careful with pressures and speed.. my understanding is they are speed rated at 65mph. I don’t really have a need to tow faster than that anyway. They don’t normally lose a whole lot of pressure, the spare loses quite a lot though.

This year I plan on upgrading to the Goodyear Endurance load range D -same size- and adding TPMS with temp. I’m not sure I want to put many more miles on the Load Stars and we have a lot of miles planned this summer!

[JRTJH]

My Hideout came with Karrier Load Stars. 205/75R14 load range C, two axles. If I use 625lbs tongue weight then all four tires are within 15lbs of GVWR of the trailer which is 7650. I have about 2000mi on them. I’m very careful with pressures and speed.. my understanding is they are speed rated at 65mph. I don’t really have a need to tow faster than that anyway. They don’t normally lose a whole lot of pressure, the spare loses quite a lot though.

This year I plan on upgrading to the Goodyear Endurance load range D -same size- and adding TPMS with temp. I’m not sure I want to put many more miles on the Load Stars and we have a lot of miles planned this summer!

You might want to look at the Goodyear Endurance ST215 75R14 LRD. Price is $1 more than your current size and you'll gain an additional 640 pounds of tire capacity (160x4) for four bucks.

[waltheraustin]

So is it advisable to stay at the size the trailer came with? What are advantages or disadvantages with going up? I have 205/75 14 so should I move up to a 15 with bigger tires?

[FlyingAroundRV]

We managed to get 11,000 miles out of our china bombs last year (from new). I won't be trusting them again this year. When we pick up the TT in May, it's straight off to Discount tires for a new set of boots, most likely the GY Endurance.
I've seen the damage a blowout can do to the flimsy undersides of these trailers and I don't need that kind of aggro.

[JRTJH]

So is it advisable to stay at the size the trailer came with? What are advantages or disadvantages with going up? I have 205/75 14 so should I move up to a 15 with bigger tires?

Disadvantages of "going up in size": The tires may not fit if you go up too big

Advantages of "going up in size": You gain increased load rating. That means greater "safety margins" as the tires age. Typically ST tires "degrade" about 10% of their capacity per year, so the more "initial reserve" you have, the longer the tires will "stay above the actual axle weight". At a price of $1 per tire ($4 total) between 205 75R14 LRD and 215 75R14 LRD tires, the decision (at least for me) is clear. YMMV

[Snoking]

We took our brand new 2019 Laredo 225 MK with Goodride ST225/75R15D tiresto the tire store and installed Goodyear Endurance ST225/75R15E tires. Sold the Goodrides in less than a day on CL. One can not have to good of a tire on their trailer. Our 2017 Bighorn 5th wheel has Sailun ST235/85R16G tires on it OEM.

We are going on a little side trip with the Laredo down to Tucson in March and will be checking tire pressure when we get out of storage, I will let you know if they have lost air pressure since we left Washington back in late September. Chris

[CWtheMan]

So is it advisable to stay at the size the trailer came with? What are advantages or disadvantages with going up? I have 205/75 14 so should I move up to a 15 with bigger tires?

It’s very difficult for me and others like me that want to keep in prospective what’s supposed to be done as opposed to what can be done.
There are other factors to consider. Those being warranty coverage and extended warranty coverage.

Technically, when the vehicle manufacturer won’t authorize options for original equipment items, there not going to be responsible when an unauthorized item is used and it fails for any reason. Anything on the axle and the suspension the axle is connected to is in play when an unauthorized tire is used. There are no standardized documents to go to that will give any relief from the responsibility in recommending something that is outside of standard procedures.

Keystone, being a vehicle specific builder (RV trailers), has set numerous precedents. They set axle centers 32” apart for a reason. It limits the OEM tire outside diameter sizes which limits tire designated size selections. But, was that the primary reason? Maybe they already knew about tire sheer dangers? That’s just an example of where they might go when pushed.

RV trailer manufacturers spend tens of thousands of dollars publishing the parameters for the safe operation of the product they build for consumers. As owners of the vehicles they build for us, it’s our responsibility to operate them within the parameters they were built to withstand. Read and abide the information in the vehicle owner’s manual and all the equipment manuals provided to you when you purchased the trailer.

Weights, wheels, tires and their recommended inflation pressures are top priority items on the vehicle safety list. So important they’re displayed on the vehicle federal certification label. If or when you dispute that information you first must determine if the information on the label is correct. If so, there is no scenes complaining to the vehicle manufacturer. They have met their obligation to “the field”. The next stop is NHTSA.

These quotations come from the 2019 Keystone generic owner’s manual.

“To maintain tire safety, purchase new tires that are the same size as the vehicle’s original tires or another size recommended by the manufacturer.”

“The recommended tire inflation pressure that vehicle manufacturers provide reflects the proper psi when a tire is cold.”

When the OEM tire size is at its maximum load capacity there are three things to do; get an optional replacement size approval from the vehicle manufacturer, off-load some weight or buy a new trailer.

When a designated tire size is installed that can be replaced by that same designated size but having a higher load capacity, do it. It violates nothing by doing so. Exceptions; OEM Wheels and valve stems may be limited to he OEM tire's specifications.

[Snoking]

In many cases one can look at the wheels on Tredit's site and match that to your wheels to learn about their ratings. I was able able to do that on both our current 5th wheel and bumper pull. Yes we have two trailers.
Chris

[cliff]

We have had six blowouts in eight years on our 2008 Montana. What we learned from this is:
Buy a TPMS. You won't feel the blowout. You may save the rim.
When the first blowout occurs replace all four because the others are not far behind.
All Chinese tires are created equal. They blow in two to three years.
We are trying Goodyear Endurance this time. At least they are made in America.

[crk112]

You might want to look at the Goodyear Endurance ST215 75R14 LRD. Price is $1 more than your current size and you'll gain an additional 640 pounds of tire capacity (160x4) for four bucks.

Hi John, that seems like a slam-dunk to me I'll definitely look closely at that.. thank you!!

[notanlines]

Cliff, I heartily disagree with your statement " All Chinese tires are created equal. They blow in two to three years." Few things could be further from the truth. You seem to have have jumped on the 'Built in America' bandwagon throwing support to Goodyear, maker of the Marathon tire, arguably one of the worst offenders on the RV blowout scene.
RV'ers in the know, from board to board, will put Sailun at the very top of the list when dependability and costs are all considered. I might add that Maxxis and Carlisle are also towards the top.
Your Endurance tires have been around about two years and so far have received favorable reviews. And nobody pushes Buy American more than me. But keep in mind that Goodyear hasn't a perfect record.

[Snoking]

Cliff, I heartily disagree with your statement " All Chinese tires are created equal. They blow in two to three years." Few things could be further from the truth. You seem to have have jumped on the 'Built in America' bandwagon throwing support to Goodyear, maker of the Marathon tire, arguably one of the worst offenders on the RV blowout scene.
RV'ers in the know, from board to board, will put Sailun at the very top of the list when dependability and costs are all considered. I might add that Maxxis and Carlisle are also towards the top.
Your Endurance tires have been around about two years and so far have received favorable reviews. And nobody pushes Buy American more than me. But keep in mind that Goodyear hasn't a perfect record.

At least Goodyear stepped up to the plate FINALLY. Carlisle has tried, yet you still hear of failures. Maxxis when made in Thailand were pretty good, however still had dry rot issues. Check where they are made now. Maxxis is hardly ever stocked and needs to be ordered.

The new Endurance is widely stocked across the country.

There are now some 15" all steel ply tires showing up on the market. Cal linked to one a while back. I have been a firm believer in all steel ply tires for years on heavier trailers. Have had great results with XPS RIBs, R250s and Sailun S637s.

Also remember the the best tire a tire dealer has according to him is the one he has on his tire rack, NOT! You have to do your homework and demand what you want and not except a tire dealers compromise offering. Being on the road and not able to wait for a replacement Maxxis or Carlisle has a lot of people buying a get home tire or two.

[Tireman9]

So I had another blowout today. This is the 2nd in 3 trips. Thinking about swapping all of the tires for a better load rating tire but I hear that the wheel may not be up for more psi. Where do I find out wheel info? There are small generic steel tires without any info listed.

What are your recommendations for better tires?

Changing tires next to a busy highway isn't a good time. Damn thing gets pushed when something goes by at 80! Little nerve wracking!


What has been determined as the cause of the tire failure? Have any pictures?
Was it a Run Low Sidewall flex or was it a Belt/ tread separation? Did you get a thorough "Cut Tire Inspection" completed?


Most wheels are load limited not psi limited (in a normal range for their application)

[Tireman9]

We took our brand new 2019 Laredo 225 MK with Goodride ST225/75R15D tiresto the tire store and installed Goodyear Endurance ST225/75R15E tires. Sold the Goodrides in less than a day on CL. One can not have to good of a tire on their trailer. Our 2017 Bighorn 5th wheel has Sailun ST235/85R16G tires on it OEM.

We are going on a little side trip with the Laredo down to Tucson in March and will be checking tire pressure when we get out of storage, I will let you know if they have lost air pressure since we left Washington back in late September. Chris


Don't forget to look up the info on factory that made those Sailun tires.

[travelin texans]

Ok! I think I've got it now!!
If I've every hit a pothole or curb, if I've exceeded the stamped speed rating or ever ran over/under inflated the tires must be replaced as that's the major cause of blow outs regardless of country of origin.
Without expressed written permission from the manufacturer I can not increase size or load rating for fear of voiding the rv warranty.
I need to weigh each tire location individually so that pressures can be adjusted for each tire according to the individual weights on each.
Whatever tire that has a long history of blowing up can not/should not be called "China bomb" as that's politically incorrect.
Still not understood if LT or ST tires are the best??
Well so far I'm batting a 1000 on all of the categories!!

[waltheraustin]

What has been determined as the cause of the tire failure? Have any pictures?
Was it a Run Low Sidewall flex or was it a Belt/ tread separation? Did you get a thorough "Cut Tire Inspection" completed?


Most wheels are load limited not psi limited (in a normal range for their application)It shredded the thing so no idea. I had just inflated them to 50 maybe 10 min before the blowout. I spend time before hooking up to check tires and air up accordingly before hitting the road including checking lug nuts and the bolts on my equilizer. Definitely wasn't due to being lazy. I didn't notice any bulges but this is the 3-4th year on the "China bombs". I wasn't going to risk another blowout especially since one tire was carrying the weight on that side for Lord knows how long. I never felt it go and after when I was on one tire.

[Tireman9]

Ok! I think I've got it now!!
If I've every hit a pothole or curb, if I've exceeded the stamped speed rating or ever ran over/under inflated the tires must be replaced as that's the major cause of blow outs regardless of country of origin.
Without expressed written permission from the manufacturer I can not increase size or load rating for fear of voiding the rv warranty.
I need to weigh each tire location individually so that pressures can be adjusted for each tire according to the individual weights on each.
Whatever tire that has a long history of blowing up can not/should not be called "China bomb" as that's politically incorrect.
Still not understood if LT or ST tires are the best??
Well so far I'm batting a 1000 on all of the categories!!


Not what I said. RE Manufacturer permission. That is not my position but appears to be the position of some others who are not actual Tire Design Engineers. IMO once the tire warranty has expired the RV company has effectively washed their hands of any responsibility and at the same time washed their hands of any authority.


You only weigh each tire position to confirm none are overloaded. If you simply get the weight for both axles and divide by 4 you might be OK and you might also have one or more tire hundreds of pounds overloaded. Trailers should run tire sidewall inflation to try and lower the Interply Shear forces. See GOOGLE results HERE (https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=RV+tire+Interply+Shear).

My objection to "China Bombs" is no more about being politically correct than if I were to talk about Indiana junk RVs. It's an easy jump to a conclusion which does nothing to help you or others understand the reason for the failure.



The tire you select must be capable of supporting at least 110% of the actual load on that tire. This is RVIA position.
It does you no good to have the RF 500# lower than tire capacity if the RR is 500# overloaded.


LT vs ST. Well LT tires have to pass DOT testing that is significantly more challenging than the ST tire tests, so I would think it could be argued that that makes them "better". BUT you have to select a replacement that has equal or greater load capacity than the OE tire.

[Tireman9]

It shredded the thing so no idea. I had just inflated them to 50 maybe 10 min before the blowout. I spend time before hooking up to check tires and air up accordingly before hitting the road including checking lug nuts and the bolts on my equilizer. Definitely wasn't due to being lazy. I didn't notice any bulges but this is the 3-4th year on the "China bombs". I wasn't going to risk another blowout especially since one tire was carrying the weight on that side for Lord knows how long. I never felt it go and after when I was on one tire.


Tires, even "China Bombs" do not go instantly from OK to shreaded. A TPMS would give the driver warning so the RV can be stopped before the evidence is destroied. Also may allow you to stop before damage to the RV is done. In some instances you might even be able to stop before the tire is trunedinto scrap.

[bigbluejmc]

I don't come on the forum often to post, but I do read it all the time. This subject is interesting to me because is very relevant. I was blowing, destroying and changing tires every trip after our first year on the road. Someone suggested to get rid of the original china bombs that came with my Cougar 327RES and since it was under warranty I could not (without just loosing all the refunds). So one more year of tire coming apart another person suggested axle alignment. Took it to the shop and they aligned the rear axle as it was a bit out. Back on the road and more tire problems...got rid of the original tires and now took two fully mounted spares as several times I lost two tires on a trip.

I did always had a Tire Minder and started to pay more attention to tire pressures and temperatures. Noticed that the rear tires ran hotter and that increased pressure. But the front also climbed so I was confused and thought it was normal for summer temps of 95+F. Winter came and same issues with temp and pressure.

Tired of doing dangerous side of the road tire swap and having had several tire brands I decided to go back and look at the axle. This time I went to a shop that only deals on trailer axle repairs. This guy got under the trailer and measure everything in several ways and said, this rear axle has something wrong I just can't figure it out. He asked that I leave my RV for a day or two. On the second day he called me to come over and showed me how the right (passenger side) rear wheel hub (what hold the wheel and contains the bearings) was just a couple of 10th of an inch longer on the front than the rear attachment point as it enters the axle. If you look at the axle on a manufacturer schematic, you will see that the hub only goes in a few inches and it is pressured seated. as we found out, this one did not go in straight and was just slanted enough that was causing the RV to track at an angle (I did have a lot of thread wear uneven on multiple tires on both axle) causing temp rise and pressure gain.

Very long story short, changed axle and happy to say we had two long trips now with reasonable temp increase and uniform on all tires and reasonable pressure changes. Most importantly, no tire changes and no visible tire wear. We still have one Power King, Carlisle and 2 Marathons...yes, I still carry two spares....

Take it for what is worth, but if you are having constant tire problems it may not be the tires fault, look else where...

[sourdough]

I don't come on the forum often to post, but I do read it all the time. This subject is interesting to me because is very relevant. I was blowing, destroying and changing tires every trip after our first year on the road. Someone suggested to get rid of the original china bombs that came with my Cougar 327RES and since it was under warranty I could not (without just loosing all the refunds). So one more year of tire coming apart another person suggested axle alignment. Took it to the shop and they aligned the rear axle as it was a bit out. Back on the road and more tire problems...got rid of the original tires and now took two fully mounted spares as several times I lost two tires on a trip.

I did always had a Tire Minder and started to pay more attention to tire pressures and temperatures. Noticed that the rear tires ran hotter and that increased pressure. But the front also climbed so I was confused and thought it was normal for summer temps of 95+F. Winter came and same issues with temp and pressure.

Tired of doing dangerous side of the road tire swap and having had several tire brands I decided to go back and look at the axle. This time I went to a shop that only deals on trailer axle repairs. This guy got under the trailer and measure everything in several ways and said, this rear axle has something wrong I just can't figure it out. He asked that I leave my RV for a day or two. On the second day he called me to come over and showed me how the right (passenger side) rear wheel hub (what hold the wheel and contains the bearings) was just a couple of 10th of an inch longer on the front than the rear attachment point as it enters the axle. If you look at the axle on a manufacturer schematic, you will see that the hub only goes in a few inches and it is pressured seated. as we found out, this one did not go in straight and was just slanted enough that was causing the RV to track at an angle (I did have a lot of thread wear uneven on multiple tires on both axle) causing temp rise and pressure gain.

Very long story short, changed axle and happy to say we had two long trips now with reasonable temp increase and uniform on all tires and reasonable pressure changes. Most importantly, no tire changes and no visible tire wear. We still have one Power King, Carlisle and 2 Marathons...yes, I still carry two spares....

Take it for what is worth, but if you are having constant tire problems it may not be the tires fault, look else where...


I agree completely with your assessment. With the kind of tire failures you were having it would have been a stretch to think all of your fails were due to defective tires. In that case you must go beyond thinking "tire" as the cause. Thankfully ,many, if not most, resolve the problem by either going to a higher load rating or switching to a more reputable brand. I'm glad you found the problem and got it resolved.

[sourdough]

Tires, even "China Bombs" do not go instantly from OK to shreaded. A TPMS would give the driver warning so the RV can be stopped before the evidence is destroied. Also may allow you to stop before damage to the RV is done. In some instances you might even be able to stop before the tire is trunedinto scrap.


I have to agree with you, BUT, although they may be failing it may not be visible to the eye when you are looking at your tires daily. You might do a search on the issues JRTJH found on his tires (he posted pics). Thankfully he saw the issues, developing INSIDE the tire, and was able to replace them. I am certain when they failed, as they would have, they would have looked just fine on the outside. As a side note; I personally have had a very good tire go from OK to "shredded" so it actually does happen.....unfortunately, it was a 1/4" set of steel plate chocks used on a pulling rig that had fell off in the road that could not be avoided at the speed I was traveling....:lol: BTW, it then flew up, hit the driveshaft and bent it as well (1/2 ton truck). I didn't know about "China bombs" then but I bet that was the cause.:thumbsup:

[waltheraustin]

Running the American gems now and feel much more stable than before! Sway has minimized more with the trailer tires (endurance) truck tires( bfg e rated tires) and tomorrow I replace the rear shocks with bilstein 5100s. Hoping the shocks seal the deal as the other 2 have made an inprovement.

Now just need to keep coolant temps at Bay, then I'm truly set!

[JRTJH]

I have to agree with you, BUT, although they may be failing it may not be visible to the eye when you are looking at your tires daily. You might do a search on the issues JRTJH found on his tires (he posted pics). Thankfully he saw the issues, developing INSIDE the tire, and was able to replace them. I am certain when they failed, as they would have, they would have looked just fine on the outside. As a side note; I personally have had a very good tire go from OK to "shredded" so it actually does happen.....unfortunately, it was a 1/4" set of steel plate chocks used on a pulling rig that had fell off in the road that could not be avoided at the speed I was traveling....:lol: BTW, it then flew up, hit the driveshaft and bent it as well (1/2 ton truck). I didn't know about "China bombs" then but I bet that was the cause.:thumbsup:

Here's the photos of the "INTERNAL TREAD SEPARATION" that I had on my trailer king (china bombs) that was not visible when the tires were mounted on wheels and aired up to 65 PSI (recommended pressure for LRD tires). There is no way to know through any "user inspection" that these tires were going to "blow at any moment" so the name: CHINA BOMB.... (made in China and going to fail)