Bathroom Exhaust Leaking

[Nomadicchefs]

I have noticed water dripping from around the inside flange of the bathroom exhaust unit. Around the edges of the flange it is discolored slightly. I took the flange off and noticed this white sheeting used. In the corners where it falls short or wasn't cut properly to fit together, that water either from outside or condensation is dripping into those gaps and running down inside the walls. In the pictures you can't see the dark spots, which I don't believe is mold but rather saturated wood. However, my question is what is this sheeting? I contacted keystone and they give me the run around, stating they can't divulge info over the phone due to liability. Seems insane they can't tell me where to get it, sell me some or what it actually is called. Any thoughts? It's winter with loads of snow here at the moment. No cracks on the outer dome, the seals are all good which is what makes me think it's condensation getting trapped in between the flange and wall somehow.

[Steveo57]

I have noticed water dripping from around the inside flange of the bathroom exhaust unit. Around the edges of the flange it is discolored slightly. I took the flange off and noticed this white sheeting used. In the corners where it falls short or wasn't cut properly to fit together, that water either from outside or condensation is dripping into those gaps and running down inside the walls. In the pictures you can't see the dark spots, which I don't believe is mold but rather saturated wood. However, my question is what is this sheeting? I contacted keystone and they give me the run around, stating they can't divulge info over the phone due to liability. Seems insane they can't tell me where to get it, sell me some or what it actually is called. Any thoughts? It's winter with loads of snow here at the moment. No cracks on the outer dome, the seals are all good which is what makes me think it's condensation getting trapped in between the flange and wall somehow.The white sheeting you are referring to is the roof membrane. I'd check the roof area again because there's a leak somewhere up there around that vent or it could be coming from another area on the roof nearby.

If there's snow on the roof it's most likely coming in somewhere around the vent where the snow is piled up and melting. Can you clear the roof area around the vent?

[Nomadicchefs]

The white sheeting you are referring to is the roof membrane. I'd check the roof area again because there's a leak somewhere up there around that vent or it could be coming from another area on the roof nearby.

If there's snow on the roof it's most likely coming in somewhere around the vent where the snow is piled up and melting. Can you clear the roof area around the vent?
I will check again. I should mention that we rarely use the exhaust in the shower simply because the lid that lifts up is very thin. We are in a valley, next to the river where the wind is constantly blowing. Not slightly either, it BLOWS. And I'm afraid it will rip that little lid right off. We do use a dehumidifier daily however.

[Steveo57]

I will check again. I should mention that we rarely use the exhaust in the shower simply because the lid that lifts up is very thin. We are in a valley, next to the river where the wind is constantly blowing. Not slightly either, it BLOWS. And I'm afraid it will rip that little lid right off. We do use a dehumidifier daily however.Are you staying in the trailer right now?

[travelin texans]

Once you've found/fixed the leak, if it's not just condensation, put a Maxx Air cover over the vent. With the cover you'll not worry about the flimsy vent & be able to open or slightly open the vent to prevent the condensation.
I would recommend the covers over all the vents on any rv, they make the vents more useful in any kind of weather.

[Nomadicchefs]

Are you staying in the trailer right now?
Yes we are full timing, working away from home.

[jeff57]

Once you've found/fixed the leak, if it's not just condensation, put a Maxx Air cover over the vent. With the cover you'll not worry about the flimsy vent & be able to open or slightly open the vent to prevent the condensation.
I would recommend the covers over all the vents on any rv, they make the vents more useful in any kind of weather.

Nomadicchefs,
Not to get ahead of your leak issue, but if you decide to install vent covers these are the covers that I used. I am very happy with the result and installation was pretty easy (during the summer). I expect it would be more challenging during the cold weather months.

https://www.amazon.com/Maxx-Air-00-933073-MaxxAir-Cover/dp/B002OW5J44

[Nomadicchefs]

Nomadicchefs,
Not to get ahead of your leak issue, but if you decide to install vent covers these are the covers that I used. I am very happy with the result and installation was pretty easy (during the summer). I expect it would be more challenging during the cold weather months.

https://www.amazon.com/Maxx-Air-00-933073-MaxxAir-Cover/dp/B002OW5J44
Thanks to you guys. I'll look into those for sure. We haven't had the camper but just over a year. This just started recently, or to our knowledge of being able to see an issue that is

[Steveo57]

Yes we are full timing, working away from home.Oh, I think I remember you. I think you were trying to figure out why your heater vents were burning the floor.

If you're living in it then it could be condensation I guess. Do you have a problem with condensation in the trailer anywhere else?

[jsmith948]

As stated above, the water is either coming into the camper where the roof vent is attached, or it is coming in through/around the vent lid itself. Possibly from snow piled up around the vent.
If you have had the trailer a year, there is a good chance the Dicor sealant around the flange of the vent has shrunk and/or cracked, allowing water to enter. It doesn't take much of a void to allow water in.
Clean the area around the vent. Inspect with a strong light. You will probably have to re-caulk with self leveling sealant suitable for rubber roofing.
I've never tried to caulk anything in really cold conditions. You may want to research that aspect. Good luck.:)

[Nomadicchefs]

Oh, I think I remember you. I think you were trying to figure out why your heater vents were burning the floor.

If you're living in it then it could be condensation I guess. Do you have a problem with condensation in the trailer anywhere else?

That's me. We ended up simply taking the screws out of the floor vents so they werent so tight against the flooring. No more darkening, etc. The furnace man came out and tested it all, other than a little dust in the unit, it was running in top shape and still under the max temp it should be. Other than the spot above the shower, we have some condensation around the normal spot like windows and the front door. Not much just a little since we run the dehumidifier.

[JRTJH]

To me, based on the photos posted, this is probably condensation from "shower steam" condensing on the colder vent lid. It doesn't look like the typical "roof leak" but rather condensation.

There is a "ton" (not literally but figuratively) water inside an RV when humans live in it full time. With two people inside, just breathing introduces about 2 gallons of moisture into the air, add showers, cooking, any pets breathing and it's easy to visualize water condensing on anything cold, especially the windows, roof vents, and more "hazardly" behind any cushions/mattresses that touch an outer wall. I'd suspect that if you pull the head of the mattress away from the wall, you'll find it's also damp, maybe even wet, where it sits against the trailer outer wall. If you've got a dinette booth, the cushion edges that touch the outer wall are also likely to be wet as is the area behind the sofa. Look inside cabinets that are mounted on the outer walls and you may even find moisture or "condensation stains" on the back walls of those cabinets.

What to do? Either get a humidifier or stop breathing and cooking..... Yeah, one is kind of hard to do. The alternative is to leave the bathroom vent open and turn on the fan when showering, endure the "cold rush of air on naked, wet skin" and try to keep the interior air moving.

We have vent covers on all our vents, open the bathroom vent about 1/2" all the time and also crack a window in the rear kitchen to set up some fresh air circulation. We NEVER shower or cook without the bathroom vent fan on and when cooking, we also always turn on the range hood vent fan. Even with that much ventilation, we still have some condensation on windows on really cold evenings and almost always wake up to condensation on them.

Installing vent covers right now with snow on the roof may be difficult, but opening a roof vent to allow "fan forced moisture" to escape (or be pushed out of) the bathroom is the key to what you see in those photos.

I don't think it's a leak, rather it's water from your showers.

[Nomadicchefs]

To me, based on the photos posted, this is probably condensation from "shower steam" condensing on the colder vent lid. It doesn't look like the typical "roof leak" but rather condensation.

There is a "ton" (not literally but figuratively) water inside an RV when humans live in it full time. With two people inside, just breathing introduces about 2 gallons of moisture into the air, add showers, cooking, any pets breathing and it's easy to visualize water condensing on anything cold, especially the windows, roof vents, and more "hazardly" behind any cushions/mattresses that touch an outer wall. I'd suspect that if you pull the head of the mattress away from the wall, you'll find it's also damp, maybe even wet, where it sits against the trailer outer wall. If you've got a dinette booth, the cushion edges that touch the outer wall are also likely to be wet as is the area behind the sofa. Look inside cabinets that are mounted on the outer walls and you may even find moisture or "condensation stains" on the back walls of those cabinets.

What to do? Either get a humidifier or stop breathing and cooking..... Yeah, one is kind of hard to do. The alternative is to leave the bathroom vent open and turn on the fan when showering, endure the "cold rush of air on naked, wet skin" and try to keep the interior air moving.

We have vent covers on all our vents, open the bathroom vent about 1/2" all the time and also crack a window in the rear kitchen to set up some fresh air circulation. We NEVER shower or cook without the bathroom vent fan on and when cooking, we also always turn on the range hood vent fan. Even with that much ventilation, we still have some condensation on windows on really cold evenings and almost always wake up to condensation on them.

Installing vent covers right now with snow on the roof may be difficult, but opening a roof vent to allow "fan forced moisture" to escape (or be pushed out of) the bathroom is the key to what you see in those photos.

I don't think it's a leak, rather it's water from your showers.
Thanks, I dod find some dicor self leveling at the rv shop nearby. I noticed when I was in the stall inspecting earlier, there's a 1/2" seam around the inside of the actual vent that has some loose spots. Not sure if this dicor is what I need to fix that, but i bought some anyways. I'll work on it this weekend and let you know how it goes.

[Steveo57]

I agree with the above comment. I'd check the roof really good but if you're taking showers and living in it full time it probably is condensation. A lot of moisture from the shower and it's gotta go somewhere. It wouldn't surprise me to find the moisture getting up into the ceiling and condensing on the underside of the roof around the shower area since it's not sealed up good around that vent skylight if you have one.

I wonder if it would be wise to try to seal up the inside of the vent and skylight openings under the trim to keep the moisture from sneeking up into the ceiling area? It's similar to what we did around the AC vents in the ceiling that weren't sealed well and would let the cool air escape into the ceiling.

[sourdough]

I agree that it's more than likely condensation but I would also check all the seams if that is possible. If you can't raise the vent covers I would get a "good" dehumidifier and run in both the living area of the trailer and in the shower when showering.

The MaxxAir covers are worth every penny. No snow buildup, rain intrusion etc. and you can raise the vent for humid air to escape at any time.

We run a HiSense dehumidifier 24 hours a day when it is humid. It's pretty large (50 pint? 35 pint? - don't remember) and it's amazing how much water comes out of the air. At times the bathroom will still get a very small amount of condensation on the ceiling when we shower if we forget to open the vent. If we do open it we have no issues at all.

[JRTJH]

Thanks, I dod find some dicor self leveling at the rv shop nearby. I noticed when I was in the stall inspecting earlier, there's a 1/2" seam around the inside of the actual vent that has some loose spots. Not sure if this dicor is what I need to fix that, but i bought some anyways. I'll work on it this weekend and let you know how it goes.

DO NOT seal the INSIDE of the vent expecting to prevent outside water leaks !!!!! That you'll do is mask the symptom and hide the outcome (until the roof rot is unavoidable).....

ONLY seal voids in DICOR self leveling sealant ON THE ROOF !!! NEVER attempt to seal from the inside !!!!!

The only means to seal or reseal DICOR is to get on the roof, clean the area well, pull away any loose/damaged sealant, apply a new coat that extends at least 1" beyond the old sealant in any/all of the damaged areas. Allow the new sealant to set up for a few hours, then visually (don't touch it) inspect the application and, if needed, reapply/touchup the areas you think need additional DICOR. If you don't see any, climb down, put away the ladder and have an adult beverage.....

Chances are that what you're seeing on the inside of the bottom of the roof vent structure is the butyl/clay putty tape that's used under the roof vent. That isn't the primary means of waterproofing the vent/roof surface and the DICOR will remove any potential for voids in that area to be a concern. I wouldn't even address a void in the clay putty that's seen from the inside with the flashing removed from the roof vent.

[rhagfo]

I agree that it's more than likely condensation but I would also check all the seams if that is possible. If you can't raise the vent covers I would get a "good" dehumidifier and run in both the living area of the trailer and in the shower when showering.

The MaxxAir covers are worth every penny. No snow buildup, rain intrusion etc. and you can raise the vent for humid air to escape at any time.

We run a HiSense dehumidifier 24 hours a day when it is humid. It's pretty large (50 pint? 35 pint? - don't remember) and it's amazing how much water comes out of the air. At times the bathroom will still get a very small amount of condensation on the ceiling when we shower if we forget to open the vent. If we do open it we have no issues at all.

Well I think Sourdough has hit the nail on the head!!
We full time and have vent covers, the last set were cheap Camco after four year they became brittle, lost the one over our bed in a strong wind storm.
Even with a dehumidifier running 24/7 I noticed light condensation on that vent before I got the cover replaced latter that week.
We keep our dehumidifier located under our kitchen table, all air flow vents are clear and not blocked at all, that is where it lives and works very well!
These conditions are on the Oregon Coast, so yes it is wet! Currently outside humidity is 98% and inside is 42%.
I will add bathroom vent gets opened and the fan is on during showers. We also replaced tiny fan with a Vortex fan, yes a Fantastic would be better and quieter, but the Vortex is installed from the inside, so can be installed easily in winter.

[Nomadicchefs]

I'm ordering the vent covers this evening.
JRTJH: I'm not using the dicor on the inside. I knew it's for outside, I just meant it was cheaper and actually available at this little shop so I got it to have it just in case.
Sourdough & Rhagfo: I'll keep running the dehumidifier as usual. Once I get the vent covers, I'll be able to tell a difference I'm sure.

[Nomadicchefs]

DO NOT seal the INSIDE of the vent expecting to prevent outside water leaks !!!!! That you'll do is mask the symptom and hide the outcome (until the roof rot is unavoidable).....

ONLY seal voids in DICOR self leveling sealant ON THE ROOF !!! NEVER attempt to seal from the inside !!!!!

The only means to seal or reseal DICOR is to get on the roof, clean the area well, pull away any loose/damaged sealant, apply a new coat that extends at least 1" beyond the old sealant in any/all of the damaged areas. Allow the new sealant to set up for a few hours, then visually (don't touch it) inspect the application and, if needed, reapply/touchup the areas you think need additional DICOR. If you don't see any, climb down, put away the ladder and have an adult beverage.....

Chances are that what you're seeing on the inside of the bottom of the roof vent structure is the butyl/clay putty tape that's used under the roof vent. That isn't the primary means of waterproofing the vent/roof surface and the DICOR will remove any potential for voids in that area to be a concern. I wouldn't even address a void in the clay putty that's seen from the inside with the flashing removed from the roof vent.

Here's some pics of the seam I was meaning. Butyl tape etc

[MerlinB]

Here's some pics of the seam I was meaning. Butyl tape etc

What you are seeing in those pics is the rubber gasket that sits on the top edge of the metal flange and the plastic vent lid seals against that gasket. That may be where your leak is coming from.
That one definitely needs to be replaced. I had to replace those on my old trailer and I believe I ordered them online somewhere but I just don't have that information available right now. You should be able to get one at any RV parts place.

[JRTJH]

Here's one of probably hundreds of sources. It's probably a special order item at any local "small RV parts house" as they likely don't sell enough to keep it in stock. https://www.rvplus.com/hengs-roof-vent-dome-seal-universal-90121.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq6jC_KO84AIVD7nACh3_X QSOEAYYCCABEgIKg_D_BwE

[CrazyCain]

:popcorn:
I agree with he condensation gang...when we are at the TT in the winter, we keep the bath vent open and fan running, use hood vent when we cook, have dinette window cracked slightly and 2 small fans running all the time, one in front, one in back. Very little condensation on the windows or anywhere. We also use 2 electric 360 space heaters, one in front and one in back..Comfy 66' at night!
:popcorn:

[Nomadicchefs]

Nomadicchefs,
Not to get ahead of your leak issue, but if you decide to install vent covers these are the covers that I used. I am very happy with the result and installation was pretty easy (during the summer). I expect it would be more challenging during the cold weather months.

https://www.amazon.com/Maxx-Air-00-933073-MaxxAir-Cover/dp/B002OW5J44
There was another keystone owner near us that got these and they didn't lay flush as expected. Did you have any trouble mounting yours to your existing fan? I hate to have to drill and be sprawled out on the roof anymore than I need to be.

[Steveo57]

Tho ones I installed are attached to brackets which are attached to the vent frame. They don't sit tight to the roof but it's a small gap.

You might be able to just sit them over the vent covers temporarily until better weather. Maybe tape them down temporarily or set a weight on them.

Maxxair 00-933067 Smoke Vent Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000A3GK4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Nt1zCb8J4CBBX

[Nomadicchefs]

Alright gang, after much work on this awful vent opening, I have found the culprit. In the corners where the roofing membrane has been cut too short, the corners are actually under the butyl tape. The main water damage has come into the roof at all 4 corners. It has ran down the "framing boards" and then drips onto the ceiling panel, then runs out from under the exhaust flange. I used a small pen camera and can see water damage about 2-4 inches out from the actual hole cut into the panel. I have the products to seal it from the roof and to fix it from the inside.

My traumatic question is, how in the world do I fix the damage? I know I can take the ceiling panel down, but what do I use to do this? Also, in order to take it down I have a flush mount light that I have no clue how to take it down/out. Luckily, the water has stayed right there within that space. Once I get the panel down I will be able to tell more about it. I can put the dehumidifier in there and dry it out and then better assess the mold. It's moldy, but I'm not so much concerned that it's the deadly mold, but more that the wood is possibly to far gone to repair. I can get my hands on wood rot chemicals, but I just need more guidance from you pros.

I feel confident in doing these repairs myself. If it's major I will call in a repair service, but I want to see it for myself before I decide to drop a boatload of money on someone else doing the work. So....I'm ready to take notes. What now??

[Steveo57]

So the mold is on the ceiling panel inside the ceiling? If it all seems solid I'd just seal it up good on the roof to stop any further leakage and spray the moldy area with a bleach mixture then get it dried out good and call it quits!

[Nomadicchefs]

So the mold is on the ceiling panel inside the ceiling? If it all seems solid I'd just seal it up good on the roof to stop any further leakage and spray the moldy area with a bleach mixture then get it dried out good and call it quits!

Yea, it's the roof membrane then a sheet of ply, then the 2x4 framing boards, then a gap semi filled with insulation and wiring. Below the gap, on the under side of the boards are the ceiling panels. I guess I'm wanting to take it down to guarantee there's no damage I can't see. Like if it ran down into the wall, because the wall separating the shower and living room has all the wiring for the tv, surround sound, dvd, etc. And for some reason, it all comes in and is wrapped around a stud that is exposed under that vent.

[rhagfo]

The butyl tape isn’t the final seal, in fact there isn’t any under my vents on my 2005 Copper Canyon. The real seal is the self leveling sealant over the edge and screws holding the vent cover in place. I would check the exterior self leveling sealant, and repair as necessary.
Check for rot with knif if none found use bleach water solution to kill, let dry and put bac together.

[Nomadicchefs]

The butyl tape isn’t the final seal, in fact there isn’t any under my vents on my 2005 Copper Canyon. The real seal is the self leveling sealant over the edge and screws holding the vent cover in place. I would check the exterior self leveling sealant, and repair as necessary.
Check for rot with knif if none found use bleach water solution to kill, let dry and put bac together.
Is there an easy way to take these panels down? The staples are tiny but the panel is such flimsy material I'm afraid I'll tear it up. I want to make sure I kill the mold and find it all.

[JRTJH]

When your trailer was constructed, the large components were placed on the floor, the sidewalls were built around them, then the inside ceiling panels were placed in position from sidewall to sidewall. Next the rafters were installed, the inside panels were then stapled to the rafters and after wiring runs, ducting and insulation, the "top OSB roof decking" was installed and stapled in place.

ALL of your interior ceiling panels span the entire trailer width, from sidewall to sidewall. You can't "remove the bathroom ceiling panel" without cutting it at the bathroom wall/ceiling points. While it's not "impossible" it does take some significant pre-planning and thought to make sure you can remove the ceiling molding, cut along the edges, pull/pry the ceiling panel off the rafters and gain access to everything "above the panel. Realize that there are lights, A/C duct vents, skylights and that powered roof vent as well as hidden 12 VDC and 120 VAC wiring, radio/TV cable, insulation and rafters that will all "come tumbling down on your head" as soon as you start pulling the interior luan panel from the rafters.

Based on what you're describing, I'd question whether you really have a "roof leak" or not. The ENTIRE vent is sealed from the top flange to the TPO roof membrane. The ENTIRE vent is sealed between the flange and the TPO under the flange with clay/butyl putty. There is always a "possibility" of a leak, but based on how you describe not using the vent while showering and seldom/never opening the vent to allow condensation to escape. I really don't think you're facing an "active rooftop leak".

I'd suspect that you've got considerable moisture from condensation that originated by showering/cooking/breathing in the "closed up trailer" and that is the source of your "water damage". Before attempting to remove the ceiling panels in an RV that you're living in during the winter, I'd first begin a regimen of "active ventilation, dehumidification and get things dry, for now. You really don't want to start tearing things apart in a 200 square foot box that is your "home" while the weather is not acceptable for being outside during the renovation.

[Nomadicchefs]

When your trailer was constructed, the large components were placed on the floor, the sidewalls were built around them, then the inside ceiling panels were placed in position from sidewall to sidewall. Next the rafters were installed, the inside panels were then stapled to the rafters and after wiring runs, ducting and insulation, the "top OSB roof decking" was installed and stapled in place.

ALL of your interior ceiling panels span the entire trailer width, from sidewall to sidewall. You can't "remove the bathroom ceiling panel" without cutting it at the bathroom wall/ceiling points. While it's not "impossible" it does take some significant pre-planning and thought to make sure you can remove the ceiling molding, cut along the edges, pull/pry the ceiling panel off the rafters and gain access to everything "above the panel. Realize that there are lights, A/C duct vents, skylights and that powered roof vent as well as hidden 12 VDC and 120 VAC wiring, radio/TV cable, insulation and rafters that will all "come tumbling down on your head" as soon as you start pulling the interior luan panel from the rafters.

Based on what you're describing, I'd question whether you really have a "roof leak" or not. The ENTIRE vent is sealed from the top flange to the TPO roof membrane. The ENTIRE vent is sealed between the flange and the TPO under the flange with clay/butyl putty. There is always a "possibility" of a leak, but based on how you describe not using the vent while showering and seldom/never opening the vent to allow condensation to escape. I really don't think you're facing an "active rooftop leak".

I'd suspect that you've got considerable moisture from condensation that originated by showering/cooking/breathing in the "closed up trailer" and that is the source of your "water damage". Before attempting to remove the ceiling panels in an RV that you're living in during the winter, I'd first begin a regimen of "active ventilation, dehumidification and get things dry, for now. You really don't want to start tearing things apart in a 200 square foot box that is your "home" while the weather is not acceptable for being outside during the renovation.
Agreed it would be quite a task to try and take on, I dont feel comfortable just ignoring the mood I can see but can't reach.
As for the leaking I am seeing when I got everything removed and just have the membrane and attached vent. In the corners where the roofing membrane has been cut too short, the corners are actually under the butyl tape. The main water damage has come into the roof at all 4 corners. It has ran down the "framing boards" or trusses, whatever you want to call them, and then drips onto the ceiling panel, then runs out from under the exhaust flange.

[JRTJH]

Agreed it would be quite a task to try and take on, I dont feel comfortable just ignoring the mood I can see but can't reach.
As for the leaking I am seeing when I got everything removed and just have the membrane and attached vent. In the corners where the roofing membrane has been cut too short, the corners are actually under the butyl tape. The main water damage has come into the roof at all 4 corners. It has ran down the "framing boards" or trusses, whatever you want to call them, and then drips onto the ceiling panel, then runs out from under the exhaust flange.

Where the corners were cut too short, IF the butyl tape is sealed along the vent flange/TPO membrane, there is no way "OUTSIDE" water can migrate through that butyl seal. So, all the moisture you describe "running down the framing boards" would be moisture that was created INSIDE the trailer. I agree, you have mold and that's evidence of moisture, but I really don't think it's moisture that's coming INTO your trailer, rather it's moisture that's collecting from showering/cooking and it's ORIGINATING inside your trailer, not leaking INTO your trailer.

ADDED: Even if the roofing membrane were "cut too short" the DICOR sealant on the outside would prevent it from seeping into the interior of the trailer AND the butyl putty tape would serve as a "second barrier" to "back up" the DICOR.

[Steveo57]

Where the corners were cut too short, IF the butyl tape is sealed along the vent flange/TPO membrane, there is no way "OUTSIDE" water can migrate through that butyl seal. So, all the moisture you describe "running down the framing boards" would be moisture that was created INSIDE the trailer. I agree, you have mold and that's evidence of moisture, but I really don't think it's moisture that's coming INTO your trailer, rather it's moisture that's collecting from showering/cooking and it's ORIGINATING inside your trailer, not leaking INTO your trailer.



ADDED: Even if the roofing membrane were "cut too short" the DICOR sealant on the outside would prevent it from seeping into the interior of the trailer AND the butyl putty tape would serve as a "second barrier" to "back up" the DICOR.I would agree with JRTJH. I doubt it's cut too short. They lay the roofing membrane over the whole trailer and then just cut the holes where needed. The chances of leakage uniformally at each corner are slim. The roof vent frame being all metal is going to get covered in condensation and then run down into the ceiling.

Take a shower with the trim off and the vent closed as you have been and see what it looks like.

[Nomadicchefs]

Ok, I'll do the shower test, and check the roof seals. But as for the mold, what can I do to kill it without damaging all the wiring? There are 3 sets of wiring that run through that wet wood at the opening. I'm only afraid of what I can't see continuing to grow.

[rhagfo]

I would agree with JRTJH. I doubt it's cut too short. They lay the roofing membrane over the whole trailer and then just cut the holes where needed. The chances of leakage uniformally at each corner are slim. The roof vent frame being all metal is going to get covered in condensation and then run down into the ceiling.

Take a shower with the trim off and the vent closed as you have been and see what it looks like.

I agree CONDENSATION that frame is aluminum closed up trailer condensation!!!!
#1 get an electric dehumidifier run it at a setting of less than 40%, open vent and run the entire time you shower, dry off and dress.
Does your range hood vent outside? Do you run it the entire time you are cooking?? Cooking creates a lot of humidity.

[JRTJH]

Ok, I'll do the shower test, and check the roof seals. But as for the mold, what can I do to kill it without damaging all the wiring? There are 3 sets of wiring that run through that wet wood at the opening. I'm only afraid of what I can't see continuing to grow.

There are several "commercially available" mold elimination products. WalMart, Lowe's and Home Depot will have them on the shelf. Any commercial janitorial store will also have them available as will Amazon and EBay. You can also use either white vinegar or hydrogen peroxide in a spray bottle. Spray either (don't mix them together) into all the areas you can see and access. Allow them to dry and your mold should be gone. Remember that the stains will probably remain, but the mold (actually a fungus) will be dead. Bleach is effective to kill mold, but does not penetrate the surface, so it will only kill mold "on contact". Any mold that's grown into cracks or crevices will remain and continue to grow. In other words, bleach will "remove the stain and make it "look like the mold is gone" but it often times returns as soon as the "ideal growing season" (dark and warm) return.

I'd make a trip to WalMart, pay $5 for a spray bottle of mold eliminator, buy a dehumidifier, learn to take showers with the vent OPEN and let things dry out. Leave the plastic trim off the vent so things can dry out rather than closing it all up and having a bigger problem in the spring.

[Nomadicchefs]

Thank you all for the replies.

[sourdough]

I have to agree with the rest. I have difficulty thinking the dicor, butyl tape and any seal that came with the vent ALL started leaking all around the vent. The uniformity of the leaks sure sounds like it's collecting inside. If you follow the previous suggestions (be sure and let the wet wood dry after you kill the mold) I'm thinking (hoping) you will be on the way to recovery.

[Steveo57]

There are several "commercially available" mold elimination products. WalMart, Lowe's and Home Depot will have them on the shelf. Any commercial janitorial store will also have them available as will Amazon and EBay. You can also use either white vinegar or hydrogen peroxide in a spray bottle. Spray either (don't mix them together) into all the areas you can see and access. Allow them to dry and your mold should be gone. Remember that the stains will probably remain, but the mold (actually a fungus) will be dead. Bleach is effective to kill mold, but does not penetrate the surface, so it will only kill mold "on contact". Any mold that's grown into cracks or crevices will remain and continue to grow. In other words, bleach will "remove the stain and make it "look like the mold is gone" but it often times returns as soon as the "ideal growing season" (dark and warm) return.



I'd make a trip to WalMart, pay $5 for a spray bottle of mold eliminator, buy a dehumidifier, learn to take showers with the vent OPEN and let things dry out. Leave the plastic trim off the vent so things can dry out rather than closing it all up and having a bigger problem in the spring.I never knew that about bleach. I've always used it and it seems to work okay from the looks of it but I didn't know it couldn't penetrate into porous materials.

[JRTJH]

I never knew that about bleach. I've always used it and it seems to work okay from the looks of it but I didn't know it couldn't penetrate into porous materials.

If you believe Service Master, here's some good "background info" :
https://www.servicemasterrestore.com/blog/mold-damage/mold-myths-will-vinegar-kill-mold/

After Katrina, I became an "unwilling expert" on mold control. My relatives around New Orleans were literally "chest deep in mold" and they bought all the Clorox they could find. It made for some "very pretty white and beige mold" but it wouldn't kill it. On the other hand, a buddy of mine who has a Service Master franchise told me to get some plain white vinegar and try that. BOOM it was gone in a week. Lesson learned.

[jeff57]

There was another keystone owner near us that got these and they didn't lay flush as expected. Did you have any trouble mounting yours to your existing fan? I hate to have to drill and be sprawled out on the roof anymore than I need to be.

I did not have any trouble mounting mine to any of the 3 vent covers I installed them over. The only one that has a fan is in the bathroom and it works great during my camping season (April-October). It has been my experience that the colder it is outside, the more condensation we have inside. You are getting some great advice and I hope you're able to solve your issue soon.

[scalimag]

Electrical Problem::
I have a Keystone Fifth wheel model 3791. I had a problem with my electrical pluglet where the my power cable plugs into the camper . First I notice that the plug got really hot started to melt. Thinking it was just the plug I replace it. Camp for a couple of month and we had a big problem. Our washer shorted out and smoke filled the room, I cut off all of the breaker to investigate the problem. I had figured out that I had smoke the control board on the washer. Further investigation I check the plug again to make sure that I had a good connection ,but I did not. I took everything apart and found out the Pluglet on the camper the terminal got real hot the neutral wire terminal was never tight from the factory. So when I lost the neutral it back fed and smoke the control board in the washer and also the vacuum system that is all that I can find so far. You can look at the pluglet on the camper and check the prong to see if there are loose, if they are I would remove the 4 screws to check the terminal connection. I hope this help some else in the future. Happy camping!!!!