Stabilizing 38 foot travel trailer

[gbjax95]

We have a 2019 keystone outback 328rl with auto level. I have noticed that once the auto leveler is done and the stabilizer jacks are done the camper still movers alot. Any recommendations to better stabilize the camper.

[linux3]

I have a much smaller TT but...
The longer the stabilizer jacks are extended the more movement. I carry 4 hunks of 6X6 and put them under the jacks to shorten them.
If we are staying somewhere for more than a day or 2 I also use X chocks which help a lot.

[gbjax95]

Will give that a try. Our 21 foot wasnt this bad.

[14george]

We got a Cougar 32 RLI with auto level and use the x chalks works fine

[ajk170]

Gbjax95- we have a 316RL and it’s only a few feet shorter but we use pads I made out of 4x4s for the stabilizer and front land leg plus we have the JT Sring arms in the rear and we use the xchocks. All of that said, and I still feel movement. Realizing I can’t eliminate all of the movement we’re still going to install the Bal stabilizer bars on the front as well. The more I can “tie” the stabilizers together with the frame the more solid it will feel.

[JRTJH]

All I can say is, "Don't spend a night on a boat"......

That "attempt at humor" aside, any RV is built on a "cantilevered frame". If you've ever looked closely at an empty "18 wheeler flatbed" you'll see that it "arches in the middle" when empty and "sits flat" when loaded. That "cantilevered frame" is built to allow for the normal bending (spring loading) that occurs when metal is stressed with weight.

RV's are built in a similar fashion, but the cantilever is "upside down". In other words, the 18 wheeler flatbed trailer contacts the ground at the front and rear, the RV contacts the ground in the middle. So in RV's, the weight on the front/rear forces the frame to "push down on the ends" to level the frame rails.....

All the above to "explain" that the RV frame is a "giant spring" that rests on the middle "4 wheel suspension". It's naturally going to "spring when added weight is felt".... Many (most) 4 point auto level systems are located in the front landing gear and "about mid-point" between the rear axle and the bumper. Those two areas "eliminate much of the chassis rail spring" but not all of it. which is the reason for 6 point and 8 point leveling systems on larger RV's. The tires/axles/springs still impart a "bounce" to the bow in the frame rails and is extremely difficult to eliminate. You can stop much of the bounce, but you'll never eliminate "all" of the spring bounce caused by the frame rails. Consider that if the frame didn't "spring" it would probably be twice as heavy, not allow flexing/shock absorption and likely would "shake the RV apart" as you towed it down the road.

So, back to the opening statement, "try sleeping on a boat"... You'll appreciate your "very solid footed RV"..... YMMV

[meaz93*]

I have a 2018 328RL and absolutely live it....auto level system is the best.
I don't use the chokes that I had from my ole Springdale.
I don't need them. What I found is that after I pull into my camp spot; unhook my trailer and hit autolevel....I than re-auto level the trailer after all the slides are out.
The trailer is stable and doesn't move around.
But I always carry them with me, yet never had to use them.
Great trailer....Congrats!!20241

[meaz93*]

Insert love!....not live although that would work-lol

[gbjax95]

I am retired navy so i have slept on many boats/ships...

[ajk170]

gbjax95- I like meaz93's suggestion to level once and then again when the slides are out and it seems to make sense due to the weight being redistributed once the slides are deployed. I'm still an advocate for the stabilizer bars but those (JT Strong Arms or Bal ) are probably the most expensive and time consuming (for installation) option. Chocks are much easier but probably equally expensive whereas the wood option is pretty inexpensive but the level/re-level is certainly the cheapest! Good luck and let us know what you do and your thoughts are after doing it a few times!