Adding switch bank to control exterior lights

[firsttt]

I am the proud owner of a well used 2008 Sprinter 26BHS.

For this season's upgrades, I will be adding rock lights (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IP8W254/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

Ideally, I would like to install a switch bank ("upfitter switches" for those of us from Ford-Land ;) ) in the interior of the trailer to control the lights (something like a few of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0129K2RUY/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )

I'm completely comfortable with the electrical part, but the part about how to route the wire from the exterior of the trailer to the interior is a mystery. Ideally, I'd like the switches to be in the center console where the TV is , but am open to suggestions if there is anything easier (like coming in through the basement), and having the switches in the front bedroom. This is an all season trailer, so the bottom is completely coroplast-ed and insulated.

Any sage words of advice on wire routing from exterior to interior? Any tricks?
Thanks!
--Brendan

[ADQ K9]

Welcome,
Not sure on your floor plan but as a starting point I would say drop an edge on the chloraplast and see where your regular lighting goes to the tail/ running light etc. Is there room on the main switch panel for another switch I am sure some one with a lot more expirence will chime in soon.

[firsttt]

This is the floorplan (sorry, should have posted originally)https://spec.dlrwebservice.com/sb-rv/floorplan/2008_Keystone_Sprinter_264BHS.jpg

[JRTJH]

You should be able to access the bottom of the entertainment center by cutting a "3 sided flap" in the coroplast. Cut the sides and REAR of the coroplast square, leaving the front as a "hinge" and fold the coroplast down. From that flap you can access the floor of the entertainment center and both side rails of the frame. You "should" find existing holes in the frame through which to route your wires. It won't be a difficult job. The most challenging part is getting up the courage to make the initial cut in the coroplast. I'd suggest about an 18" square if you're not "super accurate with measuring". Don't cut deeply until you ABSOLUTELY KNOW what is under/above the coroplast. You don't want to cut into the bottom of a tank, a power line to the slide motor, etc....

Secondly, you provided a photo and a link to a single switch. Have you considered a panel of switches? There are multiple "RV décor related" switch panels available, many with "pilot lights" to indicate the powered status of each switch. Here's a link to some panels, a few of which will also provide 12 VDC and USB powered capability. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=RV+switch+panel&i=automotive&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

[firsttt]

You should be able to access the bottom of the entertainment center by cutting a "3 sided flap" in the coroplast. Cut the sides and REAR of the coroplast square, leaving the front as a "hinge" and fold the coroplast down. From that flap you can access the floor of the entertainment center and both side rails of the frame. You "should" find existing holes in the frame through which to route your wires. It won't be a difficult job. The most challenging part is getting up the courage to make the initial cut in the coroplast. I'd suggest about an 18" square if you're not "super accurate with measuring". Don't cut deeply until you ABSOLUTELY KNOW what is under/above the coroplast. You don't want to cut into the bottom of a tank, a power line to the slide motor, etc....

Secondly, you provided a photo and a link to a single switch. Have you considered a panel of switches? There are multiple "RV décor related" switch panels available, many with "pilot lights" to indicate the powered status of each switch. Here's a link to some panels, a few of which will also provide 12 VDC and USB powered capability. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=RV+switch+panel&i=automotive&ref=nb_sb_noss_2
Awesome, thanks! You are are correct that, despite my best "measure twice, cut once", I miss >50% of the time, so point taken about cutting.
I was thinking I'd do at least 2 switches, but, if I'm opening up the bottom and pulling conduit, I will just go for a full panel as outlined in your amazon link.

[JRTJH]

If you do decide to "go the flap route", then the "ideal, recommended" procedure to close the flap is "SCRIM TAPE". Clean the area with alcohol, let it dry and use Scrim tape to seal all cut areas. Some people use a couple of zip ties threaded through small holes at the corners of the flap to add to the security, others don't feel it's necessary.

Alternatively, Gorilla Tape works "almost as well" as Scrim tape, so if you can't find the Scrim tape (located at EVERY mobile home service center) you can use Gorilla Tape with the expectation that you may have to replace it every couple of years if it dries and separates.

Your modification sounds interesting and I look forward to seeing (photos) and hearing about your progress...

GOOD LUCK !!!

[firsttt]

If you do decide to "go the flap route", then the "ideal, recommended" procedure to close the flap is "SCRIM TAPE". Clean the area with alcohol, let it dry and use Scrim tape to seal all cut areas. Some people use a couple of zip ties threaded through small holes at the corners of the flap to add to the security, others don't feel it's necessary.

Alternatively, Gorilla Tape works "almost as well" as Scrim tape, so if you can't find the Scrim tape (located at EVERY mobile home service center) you can use Gorilla Tape with the expectation that you may have to replace it every couple of years if it dries and separates.

Your modification sounds interesting and I look forward to seeing (photos) and hearing about your progress...

GOOD LUCK !!!
Thank you (again). I was just googling "tape coroplast", believe it or not, but I will just cut to the chase and go with your recommendation for scrim tape (at my local Camping World). I will post pics of work in progress/completed, but it will be a few weeks at least as I'm just ramping up for this project and it's still raining here and I don't have a garage to work in. Thanks!

[JRTJH]

If the local Camping World doesn't have Scrim tape, any mobile home service center would have it on hand... By "mobile home service center" I mean an "house trailer/manufactured home" dealer's service department....

[firsttt]

If the local Camping World doesn't have Scrim tape, any mobile home service center would have it on hand... By "mobile home service center" I mean an "house trailer/manufactured home" dealer's service department....

There also seems to be good supply on Amazon, for instance: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MSKK8S/ref=sspa_dk_hqp_detail_aax_0?psc=1

[JRTJH]

I would strongly recommend at least 2" wide, preferably 3 or 4" wide Scrim tape. The 3/4" stuff is just too narrow to get a good 'grip" on the sides of the cut.