Solar Panel Setup

[DKStewish]

I have a Keystone Passport 171 LTE.

Can I just plug in a solar panel to the port or do I need a solar panel controller?

[Steve/]

Anything bigger than a 40 watt panel I would install a controller with 2 battery.
A 40 watt panel is not going to be much help.
I would start will a 100 watt and a controller and add more panels as needed.

[German Shepherd Guy]

I am curious about this too. So my 26rbpr has a solar plug right up front, built into the trailer. Steve, are you saying that the trailer/converter has no charge controller built in with that plug? I would need to add a controller into the system to keep my solar panel from frying my batteries?
Thanks,
Oak

[HeadShed]

Always use a controller, so when the battery is charged the controller will only let it float. It will save your battery and prevent risk to battery boil.

If you RV is prewired, you can buy branded panels meant to plug and play and are already wired to your battery - those panels have individual charge controllers inside each panel. Places like Zamp can provide custom panel setups with controllers that will be plug in play.

[Steve/]

The solar plug, is just a 12 volt plug that is wired to the battery. So a solar panel with a controller can be connected to the 12 volt system.
Now about the controller, I do not worry about the damage to the battery with high voltages, ( bring out the popcorn ) what I worry about is the equipment connect to the 12 volts/battery, some could only be rated to 15/16 volts max, (lights, CO Detector, smoke Detector, radios, refrigerator control boards, ect..... ). Most 12 volt solar cell/panels are rated at around 20 volts, so without a controller you have the possibility of blowing up a lot of equipment.
I do NOT recommend this but I have run 200 watts panel into the plug without an controller after a night of camping and battery voltage down around 11.7 volts, 2 battery, I know the voltage will be less then 14.2 volts after 2 hours, I will have a digital voltmeter to show me voltage so I act as the controller. I know the risk and willing to take them. All that said I have a 100 watt panel on the trailer roof that is connected to a controller that runs 24/7 so when the trailer is in storage the battery stays charged, I adjust the voltage down on the controller when not camping. I also have another 100 watt panel with a second controller that I plug into the plug that I can move around.

Hope that helps
Steve

[Bisjoe]

Be careful when selecting the panel, because the Zamp is wired the opposite of the other brands. Typically, like on my Springdale the plug is labeled "Solar Ready" while if it's a Zamp plug it will say something like "Warning - use only Zamp charging systems." You can still use another solar panel, but need an adapter to change the polarity.








https://www.zampsolar.com/polaroty-adapter/

[German Shepherd Guy]

Steve, and Bisjoe, Thank you very much. Great explanation Steve,:hpyclp: I think you might have saves me some grief. And thank you Bisjoe, did not realize that difference.
Oak

[djac13]

@bisjoe, how do you know if you need to switch the polarity or not? Will the charge not work or are there other worse symptoms that might happen?

[MXRacer]

@bisjoe, how do you know if you need to switch the polarity or not? Will the charge not work or are there other worse symptoms that might happen?

If you have a Zamp "solar ready" or full OTG system, the SAE connectors will be reversed in polarity for most, if not all, non-Zamp solar panels. Also, most other solar panels will have MC4 connectors rather than the Zamp/SAE connectors. I added Renogy panels to my Cougar Zamp OTG system, so I ran MC4 to SAE connectors, then had to add the SAE reverse polarity connectors to maintain correct polarity. Verify your connections with a multi-meter. It can be a bit confusing to convert connectors and switch polarity all at the same time.

[djac13]

Thanks @mxracer

Zamp are expensive panels, does anyone have some? Or what brand does everyone have and like?

[Cheesehead4Life]

are you saying that the trailer/converter has no charge controller built in with that plug? I would need to add a controller into the system to keep my solar panel from frying my batteries?

On my 2020 Outback, that Zamp inlet on the side of the trailer is basically just an "extension cord" that is routed up toward the battery. And in fact on mine, the wires don't run all the way to the battery, but only to a junction where other wires are combined on a fuse block. The solar leads are just hanging loose - NOT connected from the factory. Make sure to take a look on yours before you use it.

[Summergirl]

Or if like mine that was solar ready the plug in the front of the trailer wasn’t wired to anything. Unscrewed it from the front and removed only to find the wires hanging there. The wires from the battery were just tucked into the loom on the frame. That being said I wired in a controller in the pass through.

[MXRacer]

Thanks @mxracer

Zamp are expensive panels, does anyone have some? Or what brand does everyone have and like?

I added the Zamp OTG upgrade kit for my roof that contained one 175 watt panel from the factory. After installing that one and learning a bit more about solar panels in general, I bought two more Renogy panels at half the cost of the Zamps. The Zamp panels are made in Bend, OR, so I didn't mind the additional cost for buying American. But when I wanted more, $500+ each was getting really expensive.

What I saved by getting the two Renogy panels allowed me to nearly pay in full for a LiFePo battery. And the Renogy panels appear to be performing as good as the two Zamp panels. Just remember that you will be buying MC4 to SAE connectors and the polarity reverse connectors to add non-Zamp panels (if you are installing them on the roof and going through the Zamp roof port.)

Of course, if you plug into the port on the side of the trailer that goes straight to the battery, just buy a portable solar kit that contains a charge controller. Renogy and others make some decent kits. As you can see in the pic, my factory Zamp charge controller and wiring was on the driver's side of the pass thru. I dropped in a Victron MPPT charge controller and added a Xantrex remote panel.

[djac13]

Well noted on verifying if the plug is even hooked up. I’ll do that first. I’m looking at this kit Renogy 100 Watts 12 Volts Monocrystalline Solar Starter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BFCNFRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3DXNWB0CFW7DAG8H3J0G?_ encoding=UTF8&psc=1

For start

[jasin1]

Well noted on verifying if the plug is even hooked up. I’ll do that first. I’m looking at this kit Renogy 100 Watts 12 Volts Monocrystalline Solar Starter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BFCNFRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3DXNWB0CFW7DAG8H3J0Gt? _encoding=UTF8&psc=1

For start

I have the renogy 200 watt suitcase. Seems like a good quality unit

[guitarboy52]

I have a 2018 Passport 2520RL. Someone said I couldn't run over 200 w of solar? I have nothing right now but interested in getting hooked up with as much as logical. Hoping to do plenty of boondocking in the future.

[JRTJH]

I have a 2018 Passport 2520RL. Someone said I couldn't run over 200 w of solar? I have nothing right now but interested in getting hooked up with as much as logical. Hoping to do plenty of boondocking in the future.

This is "just a guess" but your trailer may have some OEM components installed that are rated "maximum 200 watts"... What those components are or which ones (if any) are rated as such is something you'll need to research.

On the other hand, if nothing is currently installed in your trailer, and if you're installing a "free standing solar system" (not one relying on existing installed stuff with questionable ratings) then you can purchase and install a system rated much higher than 200 watts, just by purchasing a system designed to work together with any rating you're willing to "pay enough for"... The higher the rating, the more expensive the system gets, so it's more "pocketbook limited" than "wattage limited"....

[MarkEHansen]

I think John means Watts where he was typing Amps. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

[JRTJH]

I think John means Watts where he was typing Amps. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

You're right. I corrected my post.... Amps, watts I know they aren't the same, not even in a apple and orange salad.... :o Thanks for catching it.

[MarkEHansen]

So many people cross those terms, I wondered if it was even worth pointing it out :)

[JRTJH]

So many people cross those terms, I wondered if it was even worth pointing it out :)

5 years from now when someone posts that they "burned up their 16 gauge inverter supply wire on their 400 watt inverter because the 200 amp fuse didn't blow, yep, it'll be "important then" LOL

As an "excuse" I guess I suffered from "momentary intra-cranial flatulence"....