New A/C instal

[Smercer]

I have a 2018 Springdale mini 1800bh. I am doing away with the window unit that it came with and putting a rooftop unit it. Does anyone know where it's recommended to put it, over the axle, just in front? I have a spot marked just in front. Can't find anywhere to get ahold of Keystone and CW, where I bought it, wants me to bring it in for them to do it.

[fourfourto]

My camper has the same a/c unit,i find it works well and it can run with ex cord at the house.(GR8 for those hot days to clean it up.)
or have people stay in it at the house.
why spend the $$$.
also less stress on roof.

[14george]

Welcome to the fourm from Wv. Don’t know about your model need to check if roof is braced for a roof top ac unit

[Smercer]

Down here in the Texas heat and humidity the window unit just can't keep up.

[chuckster57]

Is there a roof vent?

[Smercer]

It's in the back in the restroom.

[xrated]

You really can't/shouldn't just pick out a spot for it. There needs to be a framed/braced 14" x 14" area in the roof for it to be located, which consequently is the same size as the normal roof vent opening. Obviously, you are going to need to get a 120VAC feed up to it, along with thermostat wires (if you're going to have a wall mounted thermostat) and possibly a 12 VDC feed.

[JRTJH]

If you're saying that there is NO roof vent in the main cabin, then you'll very likely find that the roof is not constructed to support the weight of a rooftop air conditioner. You will have to devise a method to run power to the area as well as reconstruct the roof rafters. On some trailers they are all constructed the same and always "engineered to support the weight" while on many, the rafters are NOT constructed to support the weight because the design does not include any option to install a rooftop unit.

Your first action should be to determine if your roof will support the 100+ pounds of a rooftop unit and the second action should be to then determine if it's possible to run power to that area.

You might find, as an alternative, determining if it's possible to install a larger air conditioner in the same location as your current 8K BTU unit. Alternatively, parking in the shade, using window coverings and starting to cool the unit early in the day might give you a "crutch" to get by while you're building an improvement plan.

[Smercer]

Finally got someone a CW to tell me the roof will hold it. They said that if it was 50amp it would be pre wired and if it was a 30amp it wouldn't. I have the 30amp so I need to run wire and change the breaker. They wouldn't tell me how far forward or backwards it needs to be mounted. The spot I'm looking at is a foot or two in front of the axle, shouldn't add too much tongue weight. And almost in the middle of the main room.

[xrated]

My personal opinion, Camping World would be the LAST place I would trust/believe for that information.

[chuckster57]

With no vent in the main cabin, I wouldn’t even think about it.

[Smercer]

It was an option to have a rooftop ac when we bought it. But the salesman being a salesman assured us it was enough and it was our 1st travel trailer. We didn't have it put on. Lesson learned! As far as the camper it's great for what we use it for, taking our son to all his BMX races and being able to stay at the tracks. It does great with the Predator generator.

[travelin texans]

Finally got someone a CW to tell me the roof will hold it. They said that if it was 50amp it would be pre wired and if it was a 30amp it wouldn't. I have the 30amp so I need to run wire and change the breaker. They wouldn't tell me how far forward or backwards it needs to be mounted. The spot I'm looking at is a foot or two in front of the axle, shouldn't add too much tongue weight. And almost in the middle of the main room.

Is this the same CW that told you the original ac would work fine?
Another question, your entry level rv with only a window unit ac would/could be wired for 50 amp?
I would most definitely find someone, besides ANYONE at CW, that could tell you that it's absolutely possible to do it, otherwise you most likely will end up with a huge opening in the roof the first pothole you hit. Chuckster said he wouldn't try it & that in my opinion that is a far better opinion than ANYONE at ANY CW.
I have one of the portable ac units in my 8×12' hobby shed that does a great job, needs a window to run the vent out of & cost 1/10 of what your trying to do.

[CaptnJohn]

My personal opinion, Camping World would be the LAST place I would trust/believe for that information.

Well, I use CW in Myrtle Beach and it would be the 1st and only place I would trust for that. For minor stuff my mobile guy is great.

[CaptnJohn]

With no vent in the main cabin, I wouldn’t even think about it.

X2 and I'd be cautious walking on the roof as well.

[Rber1234]

Before you make a BIG mistake by cutting a hole in your roof, go to a real RV dealership and talk to the service manager. Camping World is the last place you want to go. I’ve seen those window units and it looks as if there is plenty of room to replace with a larger unit. A lot easier than putting a hole in roof.

[larryflew]

Huge DITTO on not believing CW. Messed up several times for us over the years on $1000 or more opinions and repairs.

Roofing RV company might be a better choice. I also call BS on the 30 vs 50. Our winter neighbor in AZ has a Cougar with single AC and 30 amp service.

[wiredgeorge]

Huge DITTO on not believing CW. Messed up several times for us over the years on $1000 or more opinions and repairs.

Roofing RV company might be a better choice. I also call BS on the 30 vs 50. Our winter neighbor in AZ has a Cougar with single AC and 30 amp service.


Nonsense... all 21' trailers with the word "mini" in their name are required by law to be prewired for two rooftop a/c units and have 50A service! :whistling:


Seriously, you have a hole in your wall for a wall a/c. It is 8K btu. MEASURE IT and find a larger capacity compact unit. Bet the one Keystone used is not compact but is a cheapo. Check the a/c circuit breaker and you will find it is likely 20A and the only thing hung on it is the current air conditioner. I have a shop I use for media blasting. When I first started using the shop, I framed in an opening for a 6K btu unit (20 years ago or more). Since then, A/C chassis have gotten smaller and now use a 10K btu unit which will freeze your 21' trailer even in Texas sunshine. The one thing not mentioned is that your trailer insides heat heat heat from the windows. It isn't enough to keep the shades or blinds down. I used 80 percent tint on my windows and it lowers my cabin temps by about 5 degrees. I also have a portable 8K that I take along on 108F camping weekends to augment the roof a/c. I made put extensions on the exhaust frame so it fit my curved window and use some foam stick on insulation to seal it in the window frame. Also carry a big oscillating fan; I have on that sits on a stand and that helps move the cooler air around.