When to buy a new Hitch system?

[AbbyinTN]

We have the Fastway E2 (Equalizer) Weight Distribution w/ 2-Point Sway Control with round bars. Had it for about 6 years. Didn't know about taking off the sway bars when backing up until halfway through. If there was damage would it be blatantly obvious? I have noticed some minor wear where the metal on metal has rubbed. The "L" brackets are a little bent...more like they are trying to straighten out. But I can buy replacements for those. We have been lubricating the areas that are recommended.

How could I do a good visual inspection to determine the condition? Is there a guideline that says hitch system should be replaced after so many years regardless?

BTW: It has been pulling fine without any complications. But I have learned from this forum it is better to be proactive and DO something BEFORE there is a problem!

[Kylemcmahon1]

We have the Fastway E2 (Equalizer) Weight Distribution w/ 2-Point Sway Control with round bars. Had it for about 6 years. Didn't know about taking off the sway bars when backing up until halfway through. If there was damage would it be blatantly obvious? I have noticed some minor wear where the metal on metal has rubbed. The "L" brackets are a little bent...more like they are trying to straighten out. But I can buy replacements for those. We have been lubricating the areas that are recommended.



How could I do a good visual inspection to determine the condition? Is there a guideline that says hitch system should be replaced after so many years regardless?



BTW: It has been pulling fine without any complications. But I have learned from this forum it is better to be proactive and DO something BEFORE there is a problem!



I had the e2. Worked fine. Upgraded to the Anderson wdh. Works great. A lot easier to use and adjust when need. No breaking the back lifting the hitch and bars. When on a hill a lot easier to hook and unhook the bars.

[Ken / Claudia]

I don't know of any time frame for replacement. Inspections should be done on the hitch parts as all other items on the RV and TV. My inspection on the hitch is cracked/bent/loose parts. If I was to bend a bar I would buy another.
What I do is remove the anti sway bar and WDH bars some where in the campground before backing. Other times is traveling on rough gravel/dirt roads to dry camp. Both of those is slow speed travel and I have a bigger TV that will not drag the bumper while towing. Here the dirt roads are mainly old logging roads with no care about grade and curves through big timber, on some hills have cuts across the road which is a big ditch instead of a steel covert (pipe) under the road. I want all the ground clearance and easy in turning.

[sourdough]

I'm not aware of any set replacement time per se. I think you just make visual inspections of all the components and replace as needed. If you L brackets are bent replace them. I use the Equalizer 4 point and put the plastic? bushings on the L brackets. I lube per instructions but there is going to be some metal to metal wear regardless if you are torqued down to spec. If you use your tongue jack to raise/lower the tongue to install/remove the sway bars you don't have to "break" you back to perform that function.

[NorskeBob]

I replaced my Husky fifth 16K wheel hitch after 14 years of use. Parts were worn somewhat and the new one was an improvement. The new one, same model with improvements, comes with a zerk fitting for greasing the hitch. Also, I now apply a small amount of "ball grease" to the pin in the hitch to reduce wear on the locking jaw on the fifth wheel hitch.

[JimQ]

I have the Equilizer 4 point WD system. You do not need to remove anything to back up your trailer. That's one of the benefits of the Equilizer. That includes the E2 also.

[MarkEHansen]

I've not heard that you need to remove the spring bars when backing up using the E2 hitch. Do you have a reference to this from the manufacturer? I'm fairly new to the E2 so perhaps I just missed this, but I've been all through the manual. In fact, in the FAQ section of the E2 owner's manual, it specifically states that you do not have to remove the bars to back up.


Thanks,

[Ken / Claudia]

I am not sure that any hitch requires you to disconnect spring bars or anti sway bars to back up. Although it makes it easier and with less noise.

[JRTJH]

I am not sure that any hitch requires you to disconnect spring bars or anti sway bars to back up. Although it makes it easier and with less noise.

I agree. Removing the WD bars is "not required"... That said, on "SOME" (not all) hitches, the bars are attached in such a way that backing at an excessive angle can damage the bars or the hitch head if the trailer is positioned at an extreme angle. You "can't" typically get to such an extreme angle going forward, but backing is a different situation. So, most people who have been towing for any length of time remove the bars for several reasons, one: to not have to endure the screeching/howling of the bars when backing, two: to prevent getting the hitch "in a bind" that could bend or damage a bar or the attachment to the trailer A frame, three: to make it easier to back without putting the stress on the anti-sway brackets and possibly damaging them or causing premature wear.

While it's not "in the manual" the advice of many "hitch experts" such as the tech department at e-trailer will suggest removing the bars. Here's what they suggest: https://www.etrailer.com/question-55066.html

Now, if you have a "bolt on sway control" (the sliding steel plate type with balls on each end) if you leave that in place while backing and angle the trailer too much, you will either snap a ball on the hitch head (expensive), snap a ball on the trailer A frame (even more expensive) or destroy/bend the sway control so it won't work any more..... BTDT and learned the hard way.....

[Ken / Claudia]

Thanks John for that infor. I have only used the old style chain and round bars. I realize there has been newer styles coming out. So, like I said I was not sure.
Removing them does help me and there not needed to back up anyway.

[BadmanRick]

As far as I can see the Fastway E2 wd hitch has a 10 year warranty. Why would you think you need to change your hitch with this kind of warranty? There are newer type hitches like the Anderson wd hitch which have a lifetime warranty. If you take care of your wd hitch it should last longer than the trailer. Unless you are overloaded at the front of the trailer.
As far as removing the bars I have not heard that before. You don’t remove the bars until after you are backed in and ready to setup. If you have a separate friction sway control you can take it off if you need the extream angle to park.

[Cpap]

I have had my basic Eaz lift Elite for ~6 years with plenty of use and am replacing it with an equalizer because I am getting a new, bigger trailer and wanted 4 point sway control and am sick of the greasy bars and the chains. I would have had to replace the load bars on my current hitch so it wasn't worth it to me.

That being said my hitch didn't give me any reason to replace it due to age. I used to unhook my sway bar (sliding metal plate) when backing up until I forgot a couple of times with no problems...I just quit unhooking it and have not had any problems. I actually jack-knifed my trailer backing it up a couple of weeks ago, dented the bumper of my truck but the hitch and trailer were fine.

[Jseitz]

I have a Husky Center Line WD hitch. No need to remove bars when backing. The piston system does help control sway. Husky has three sizes up to 14000lb TT.