Maintenance after first year

[RagingRobert]

We had a great first year of camping in our 2018 22Rbs. It's been in outdoor storage since mid Oct. for the long cold winter. Thinking about what things I should do/have done in the spring. There's a recall about a furnace pipe that needs to get fixed by the dealer. Also I've switched vehicles so my hitch ball needs to be lowered and the WDH set up again. I may attempt this myself? Apart from caulking and lubricating, what other things should be done. I'm thinking maybe a brake inspection, grease job, and tire rotation. I heard slide out rooms need to be adjusted after a while. Anything I'm missing or other suggestions?
Thanks

[sourdough]

I always inspect the roof thoroughly and apply Dicor as needed. I do this after I take it in and have the roof cleaned and sealed at the dealership (I don't/can't do the roof any longer). I inspect, clean and apply 303 to all the slide seals. I check the grease in the wheels by pulling the rubber cap and making sure everything is full/fresh and every 2 years pull the wheels, repack the bearings and check the brakes (this is dependent but I put <5k a year on the trailer). Next year will be different and I will start doing the process yearly. Check the tires for even wear and anything else. Look at the suspension and check for wear. I leave mine hooked up to power pretty much year round so I run by and make sure the batteries are full of water occasionally - at the same time clean and seal the battery terminals, check the fuse block, wiring connections etc. on the frame. Mine stays in an enclosed storage facility so I use the winter months to clean it, buff/wax it if required and apply another coat of 303. Check all the running lights. The list is almost endless. If I fail to go out specifically for one of those items I will go out and just wander around it and seems like something always comes to mind that needs to be checked or fixed.

Edit: I failed to mention the WDH and slides. You COULD set up the wdh yourself if you have the instructions and tools. I don't know about your hitch but the Equalizer requires some large sockets and even larger torque wrench so it may be easier, and cheaper, to let someone else do it. As far as the slides, I would just inspect them (assuming cable) and check for play etc. as the instructions say. Trying to adjust them can be tricky if you're not careful, but on the other hand, it is apparently tricky for a dealership. I opted to let the "pros" do mine and wound up with a nightmare I had to correct so just be aware.

[travelin texans]

If inspecting the brakes just as well pack the bearings while you have it apart.
-Didn't mention what you've done with the battery? Either remove it & take home or at the very least disconnect the negative cable from it.
-Definitely inspect the roof & all the caulking, reapply caulk as needed.
-The slides if they're working now then don't mess with them & if so let someone that knows what they're doing handle it. I'd recommend treating all the seals with a good coat of Pledge furniture polish.
-A good bath & wax job to begin the season is a good idea.
-You could do the WDH just follow the installation instructions or ask a friend for help.
If you're physically able you can do all of these things yourself & if not you need to get it into a shop yesterday if you plan to use it THIS upcoming spring.

[Logan X]

I set up my hitch and weight distribution myself. I purchased this torque wrench so I could make sure all of the bolts were torqued to the specs. The ball on my set up needs 420 foot lbs of torque. I carry it with me in the trailer so I can adjust or tighten the hitch while I’m on the road.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200627236_200627236?cm_mmc=Housefile-_-RECEIVED-_-707-_-CONF

I also purchased a special thin wall socket for the hitch ball. 1 7/8 I think.

As for tire rotation, I have heard that you should and also that you shouldn’t. Since the wheels on the trailer don’t turn independently, I don’t rotate my trailer tires.

I repack the wheel bearings and adjust the brakes every year.

I drain and flush the water heater and change the anode rod.

Also, I sand and repaint any part of the frame and tongue that has rust.

Every six months I wash and wax the trailer and I treat the fresh water tank with bleach.

I hope that helps, cheers!

[JRTJH]

There is a very comprehensive maintenance chart on page 83 of the Keystone Owner's Manual. It details nearly every component that requires inspection and maintenance as establishes a time frame for when each should be completed. The one item that is not specifically addressed is the wheel bearing/axle maintenance which is annotated with a *. The annotation instructs to comply with the maintenance schedule in the axle manufacturer's owner's manual.

I use the chart in the owner's manual and find that it's an easy way to stay up with almost all the maintenance requirements.

[Frank G]

A couple of things, I question the disconnecting of the battery when in storage if you have 15A 110 V power available. The on board converter will do it's job and maintain the battery. Check the electrolyte level in the battery a couple times a year.

I ran across these digital torque adapters a while back, 3/4" 147 to 750 FtLb for under $70.00.

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjR4t672obfAhXejbMKHYVXCbUYABAaGgJxbg&sig=AOD64_2qTXgXgRX2uarVKWIKsFjeOAe3CA&ctype=5&q=&ved=0ahUKEwiju9e72obfAhWFhOAKHchAAOEQ9aACCDQ&adurl=

[RagingRobert]

Wow, I'm kinda sorry I asked the question :) Kidding of course...great info you guys. I'm gonna copy and paste this into my RV folder. I like doing stuff myself if I can. My battery is being tendered in the garage. I do have a 1 1/6" socket for the hot water tank plug which so happens to fit the bolts on my Husky Centre line WD hitch. I purchased a torque wrench for the tires so I think I'm good to go...maybe I can't even undo the friggin bolts:) Interesting about the tires, to rotate or not. I think it's good to rotate for even wear and longer life just like our vehicle tires.

[PARAPTOR]

Over the last 6+ years I have never removed the batteries during the winter storage months. The first 4 years I did not have the Raptor hooked to power using a 15 Amp connection but ran the generator once a month under load around 45 minutes. during this time the on board converter charged the battery during that time with no issues.

The last 2+ years in storage I have had the Raptor hooked to power with an extension cord and rely on the on board converter to take care of the batteries. Same generator procedure, of course when the gen fires up the transfer switch transfers power from the 15 Amp service to the Gen.

I have always made a practice of running that generator at least once a month as part of my Gen maintenance program along with changing the oil and filters . Pa requires that we get a yearly inspection on the trailers which covers checking brakes, tires, lights, suspension, etc

Knock on wood over all these years I have had no battery or Generator issues

[Frank G]

It's tool sale time at the big box stores. Last Christmas my better half got me a Ridgid 18V 1/2" Impact driver for Christmas. What a great tool for changing tires and doing hitch modifications, even changing balls. This thing is rated for 450 foot lbs.

Caution; use torque sticks to prevent twisting off wheel studs.