Determining the vehicle weight when shopping for a new TV

[MarkEHansen]

As I understand it, the tow vehicle's owner's manual will list the maximum Gross Combined Weight Rating for the TV/TT combination. I can get the empty/wet weight of the TT from the Keystone web site (with the understanding the official value is on the weight sticker on the trailer) but I think the value listed on the web site will be close enough for estimating purposes.

How do I get the weight of a prospective tow vehicle? For example, if I'm shopping for a new vehicle and going through the manufacturers "Build your Vehicle" web site, selecting features, etc. - how do I determine what will be the weight of that vehicle?

If I'm lucky, I may find the same vehicle, equipped the same way on a lot some place near by that I can go look at - but I don't think I'm going to be that lucky.

How do you figure whether or not a given truck will work if you don't have that truck to go look at it's weight sticker?

[JRTJH]

I've got a couple of suggestions that you should consider.

First, when you "go to the trailer website" don't look for the empty trailer weight. You'll only tow the trailer empty ONE time, that's away from the delivery site. After that, you'll be "at camping weight" which will be "up to the GVW"... So, rather than use the empty trailer weight, use the GVW. You'll be amazed at how much you "stuff into nooks and crannies" in your new trailer, how much your DW decides to bring along on every trip, how many pairs of shoes (and spare boots) get stored, forgotten and found, only at the end of the season when you unload the trailer to clean it for storage.

Second, you won't find an "exact tow vehicle" to compare, but you can get a very accurate idea of what to expect by looking at similar vehicles on any dealers lot. If, for example, you're looking for a F150, then find one on a dealer's lot that has the same engine, same trim level, same cab/bed configuration, same 2WD/4WD option. Look at the payload and the GVW of that truck. That will give you (by subtraction) the truck curb weight (GVW-PL=CW).

Nearly every truck with similar build options will have a similar payload. You won't find a significant difference with whether the truck has a navigation system or not, whether it has leather or fabric interior, whether it has a bench seat vs bucket seats and console. Essentially, as in this instance, all F150 Lariat trim, with 3.5l Eco Boost, crew cab 6.5' bed 4x4 trucks with a GVW of 7600 pounds will have a payload that's "close enough to the other similar trucks". If you're looking for a King Ranch trim level, then DON'T compare it to an XL trim level. There are several hundred pounds difference in "luxury options" in the upper trim level trucks. Between "similar trucks, there may be a hundred pounds difference, but certainly not 1000 pounds difference between what you want to order and a similar truck on the lot. The GCWR will also be similar.

You've got to do your homework, talk to salesmen (trust but verify) and then ask others who have similar trucks to get comparisons.

[Logan X]

This doesn’t answer your question directly but it might help. In my opinion, it depends on what kind of towing you are planning on doing. For a small trailer (around 20 feet long) you might be ok with a well equipped 1/2 ton. For a bigger trailer I would suggest a 3/4 ton or bigger. For a fifth wheel, a 1 ton and a dually would be best. Those are just general guidelines.

You should be able to find each manufacturers tow charts on line and that will tell you how much a truck can tow. These number are often inflated so leave plenty of cushion. The other number you need to be concerned with is the trucks payload capacity, which is how much the truck can carry with all occupants and cargo. You should be able to find approximate payload capacities on line and that will give you a rough number to work with. Again, I would leave plenty of cushion in the payload amount.

My rule of thumb is it is better to have a lot more capacity than I need with my tow vehicle. I would hate for something to go terribly wrong because I was unsafe or overweight.

I think the payload capacity is the most overlooked number when matching a trailer to a tow vehicle. Remember, the hitch weight of a travel trailer and the pin weight of a fifth wheel are apart of your payload capacity. The hitch weight on a travel trailer is usually around 10 percent of the weight of the trailer and the pin weight on a fifth wheel is usually very heavy, like 2000 lbs and up.

Also, use the Gvwr numbers (or the loaded numbers) when you are figuring how much you can tow.

I included a link below that might help with finding curb weights.

https://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/towing/towing-capacity/vehicle%20/curb-weight1.htm

You should be able to get a rough idea of the truck you need and once you have decided it seems like you could contact the dealer to get the sticker information on your truck to confirm it will work.

This is all my line of thinking when I was putting my truck and trailer together. I hope it helps.

[Javi]

My way is much less expensive and time consuming.... buy a F350/3500 dually and quit wasting your time and money... trying to match a trailer with a minimum TV..

[fjr vfr]

My way is much less expensive and time consuming.... buy a F350/3500 dually and quit wasting your time and money... trying to match a trailer with a minimum TV..


:iagree: You can't have too much truck.

Never mind though if you're just buying an IPod or pop-up. :lol:

[Javi]

:iagree: You can't have too much truck.

Never mind though if you're just buying an IPod or pop-up. [emoji38]Then next year it's a 40 foot 5th wheel... [emoji1787] been there, done that.

[mtofell]

As I understand it, the tow vehicle's owner's manual will list the maximum Gross Combined Weight Rating for the TV/TT combination. I can get the empty/wet weight of the TT from the Keystone web site (with the understanding the official value is on the weight sticker on the trailer) but I think the value listed on the web site will be close enough for estimating purposes.

How do I get the weight of a prospective tow vehicle? For example, if I'm shopping for a new vehicle and going through the manufacturers "Build your Vehicle" web site, selecting features, etc. - how do I determine what will be the weight of that vehicle?

If I'm lucky, I may find the same vehicle, equipped the same way on a lot some place near by that I can go look at - but I don't think I'm going to be that lucky.

How do you figure whether or not a given truck will work if you don't have that truck to go look at it's weight sticker?

Go to a dealer lot and check a few door stickers for similar trucks. The big ones that add weight are 4X4 and long bed vs short bed. Interior options won't change things that much. A bed liner adds maybe 20-30#, running boards maybe about the same. If you print out a couple window stickers and take them to lots and write the weights on them you should be able to come super close with future shopping.

[Gegrad]

I've got a couple of suggestions that you should consider.

Nearly every truck with similar build options will have a similar payload. You won't find a significant difference with whether the truck has a navigation system or not, whether it has leather or fabric interior, whether it has a bench seat vs bucket seats and console. Essentially, as in this instance, all F150 Lariat trim, with 3.5l Eco Boost, crew cab 6.5' bed 4x4 trucks with a GVW of 7600 pounds will have a payload that's "close enough to the other similar trucks". If you're looking for a King Ranch trim level, then DON'T compare it to an XL trim level. There are several hundred pounds difference in "luxury options" in the upper trim level trucks. Between "similar trucks, there may be a hundred pounds difference, but certainly not 1000 pounds difference between what you want to order and a similar truck on the lot. The GCWR will also be similar.

Interestingly enough, the RAM website gives you a "payload up to __" number when building a 2500/3500 truck on the trim selection page. And true to form, the "payload up to" number drops several hundred lbs as you move from Tradesman up to Laramie Longhorn. So at least one manufacturer is being somewhat transparent about payload numbers from the build page.

[mazboy]

Can you give us an idea on what you are talking about? tow? 5th wheel? slide in? what are you talkinga about?

[MarkEHansen]

Can you give us an idea on what you are talking about? tow? 5th wheel? slide in? what are you talkinga about?


I'm trying to determine how to figure the weight of a prospective truck so I can determine it's limits for towing. I don't know which truck/trailer at this point.

[MarkEHansen]

My way is much less expensive and time consuming.... buy a F350/3500 dually and quit wasting your time and money... trying to match a trailer with a minimum TV..


Why do you think I'm trying to match a trailer with a minimum tow vehicle? In fact, that is exactly what I'm trying not to do.


Are you suggesting that an F350 with DRW has no towing limits? I'm pretty sure that's not true :)

[rhagfo]

As I understand it, the tow vehicle's owner's manual will list the maximum Gross Combined Weight Rating for the TV/TT combination. I can get the empty/wet weight of the TT from the Keystone web site (with the understanding the official value is on the weight sticker on the trailer) but I think the value listed on the web site will be close enough for estimating purposes.

How do I get the weight of a prospective tow vehicle? For example, if I'm shopping for a new vehicle and going through the manufacturers "Build your Vehicle" web site, selecting features, etc. - how do I determine what will be the weight of that vehicle?

If I'm lucky, I may find the same vehicle, equipped the same way on a lot some place near by that I can go look at - but I don't think I'm going to be that lucky.

How do you figure whether or not a given truck will work if you don't have that truck to go look at it's weight sticker?

Well so far some good responses some not.
#1. The rated MAX trailer weight listed in the owners manual along with MAX trailer weight are fictional numbers if you are looking at staying within GVWR and max rear GAWR.
The only way you could tow the max of those listed numbers is with a very light or zero hitch weight. In other words a tow dolly to carry the hitch weight.

So the real numbers you need to be looking at is that Payload number on the yellow door sticker that list the MAX payload sitting on the lot. Then the rear GAWR the max weight that can be placed on the rear axle.

Please understand that Payload number is the curb wight of the vehicle as it leaves the factory subtracted from the vehicles GVWR. Once you have it and start adding stuff to it that payload number goes down.

One last item, ALWAYS look at the trailer GVWR as the main number to work from. About the only exception to that would be a smaller trailer with a huge payload rating, but not often seen.

To answer your last posted question, NO there are limits to what a 350/3500 DRW can carry and pull, but nowadays that is approaching about 25,000# to 30,000#.

[MarkEHansen]

I saw once such door sticker which showed the max cargo weight for the vehicle. However, all the other calculations are centered on the Gross Vehicle Weight (vehicle + cargo).

Do I then determine the weight of the vehicle using the following?

GCWR - Max Trailer Weight - Max TV Cargo Weight

where GCWR and Max Trailer Weight come from the owner's manual and Max TV Cargo Weight come from the door sticker on the TV?

In one example I looked at, I see that GCWR is 14,000lb and Max Trailer Weight is 8,100lb. Subtracting those give a max TV weight of 5,900lb. Subtracting the max cargo weight then gives a TV net weight of 4470.

Is this right?

NOTE: I'm not talking about the weight of any particular trailer here - I'm just trying to determine how to figure the weight of the tow vehicle.

[MarkEHansen]

By the way, in the videos I've seen they refer to a door sticker which includes values for gross vehicle weight, axle weight ratings for the front and rear, etc. - All I can find is one sticker with the tire loading information. This includes just the tire pressure and max cargo weight values. I've checked all the door posts. Is this 'other' sticker only included on pickup trucks? Mine is an SUV.

[66joej]

In Canada SUVs are classified as trucks and have the tire info stickers.

[MarkEHansen]

I'm in the U.S. and my sticker is titled "Tire and Loading Information". Should I have a second sticker? Where would it be located?

[meaz93*]

MarkE,.....it seems you are making this harder than it is?
Locate/download the manufacturers OEM towing specs chart for whatever particular truck you plan on using.
Do the same for the trailer you like.
Than follow the enclosed simple weight calculating charts.
Plug in the numbers.
Get out their and start camping mister!-lol19433194341943519436

[MarkEHansen]

Thanks, yes that seems simple.

However, your pictures show that the gross vehicle weight is the sum of the net/dry weight of the truck + cargo + people + hitch weight. My question is how do I get the vehicle net/dry weight?

[Logan X]

I saw once such door sticker which showed the max cargo weight for the vehicle. However, all the other calculations are centered on the Gross Vehicle Weight (vehicle + cargo).

Do I then determine the weight of the vehicle using the following?

GCWR - Max Trailer Weight - Max TV Cargo Weight

where GCWR and Max Trailer Weight come from the owner's manual and Max TV Cargo Weight come from the door sticker on the TV?

In one example I looked at, I see that GCWR is 14,000lb and Max Trailer Weight is 8,100lb. Subtracting those give a max TV weight of 5,900lb. Subtracting the max cargo weight then gives a TV net weight of 4470.

Is this right?

NOTE: I'm not talking about the weight of any particular trailer here - I'm just trying to determine how to figure the weight of the tow vehicle.

I believe it is the opposite. the GCWR of your tow vehicle minus the GVWR of your tow vehicle equals the maximum size trailer you can tow. But, as already mentioned, you have to stay within your payload capacity and not exceed the GVWR or GRAWR of your tow vehicle when you are fully loaded.

[meaz93*]

I got mine from the Ford Towing Spec Chart for 2014.19437

[wiredgeorge]

I'm trying to determine how to figure the weight of a prospective truck so I can determine it's limits for towing. I don't know which truck/trailer at this point.

I can't help much with the math stuff (I played football and number crunching wasn't required) BUT I can tell you that if you listen to everyone here who will give differing opinions and divide the total by the number of opinions you will probably still be confused. Best to ask an RV salesman... that way you can tow the Queen Mary with a 1/2 ton. There are sooooo many towing guides out there; all with different numbers that you can just search till you find one that tells you what you want.

I will agree that the sturdiest TV you can find will likely be the best choice but then you have to pay for this TV and not the folks telling you to drop a zillion bucks for the dually so just keep in mind the wallet and if you are married, the missus cause it ain't always easy to justify a new one ton. I have a 96 F250 for that reason (I could pay cash for the clunker!) and I then bought a teeny tiny 5ver I could afford for cash so camping is still a hobby and not a major line item payment.

[Frank G]

I can't help much with the math stuff (I played football and number crunching wasn't required) BUT I can tell you that if you listen to everyone here who will give differing opinions and divide the total by the number of opinions you will probably still be confused. Best to ask an RV salesman... that way you can tow the Queen Mary with a 1/2 ton. There are sooooo many towing guides out there; all with different numbers that you can just search till you find one that tells you what you want.

I will agree that the sturdiest TV you can find will likely be the best choice but then you have to pay for this TV and not the folks telling you to drop a zillion bucks for the dually so just keep in mind the wallet and if you are married, the missus cause it ain't always easy to justify a new one ton. I have a 96 F250 for that reason (I could pay cash for the clunker!) and I then bought a teeny tiny 5ver I could afford for cash so camping is still a hobby and not a major line item payment.

That is a 5 Star post!

[Javi]

These are the two sitckers you are looking for...


P.S. see my pm

[Javi]

I can't help much with the math stuff (I played football and number crunching wasn't required) BUT I can tell you that if you listen to everyone here who will give differing opinions and divide the total by the number of opinions you will probably still be confused. Best to ask an RV salesman... that way you can tow the Queen Mary with a 1/2 ton. There are sooooo many towing guides out there; all with different numbers that you can just search till you find one that tells you what you want.

I will agree that the sturdiest TV you can find will likely be the best choice but then you have to pay for this TV and not the folks telling you to drop a zillion bucks for the dually so just keep in mind the wallet and if you are married, the missus cause it ain't always easy to justify a new one ton. I have a 96 F250 for that reason (I could pay cash for the clunker!) and I then bought a teeny tiny 5ver I could afford for cash so camping is still a hobby and not a major line item payment.

Don't know what you consider a fortune.... But I paid $38,000 out the door for my '15 F350 Dually at Covert Ford in Hutto, TX... including spray-in bed liner and OEM 5th wheel hitch installed... brand new with 28 miles on it.. But being cheap, I don't buy all them gee jaws a lot of folks consider must haves...

OH yeah... "0% interest"

[spade117]

However, your pictures show that the gross vehicle weight is the sum of the net/dry weight of the truck + cargo + people + hitch weight. My question is how do I get the vehicle net/dry weight?


Not sure why the curb weight of tow vehicle matters so much to you, but usually the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) minus payload equals curb weight.

GVWR-Payload(sticker)=Curb Weight

[wiredgeorge]

Don't know what you consider a fortune.... But I paid $38,000 out the door for my '15 F350 Dually at Covert Ford in Hutto, TX... including spray-in bed liner and OEM 5th wheel hitch installed... brand new with 28 miles on it.. But being cheap, I don't buy all them gee jaws a lot of folks consider must haves...

OH yeah... "0% interest"

My ol' F250 would be pretty much maxed out trying to pull your bigger 5ver but I suspect I could (I know it would be a tad oversized for my truck). That is why I bought a 7K lb 5ver (dry) at 27'. I paid $1700 for my old truck and only use it for towing. I put new heavy duty shocks, new brakes with new rotors in front, new vacuum lines, a few gaskets, new 10 ply tires and probably a few other things. PO already had put in a new A/C compressor and radiator. I spent a lot of time when I first got the truck as the PO had first tried to used some radiator stop leak which is about the most stupid product ever sold. FLUSHED AND FLUSHED and all is clear now. I have spent a couple thousand doing what was needed to be 100 percent as reliable as possible. Truck pulls strong and runs good. I personally would NEVER spend $38K on any vehicle as I am cheap and btw, have the XLT model! :lol:

[SummitPond]

These are the two sitckers you are looking for...
P.S. see my pm

Javi (and others) - as a matter of education for me, why is it important to hide the VIN?

What can someone do with it if they have it? After all, it is displayed in the front window of the vehicle. I have followed convention as demonstrated in this forum and when I did post something that showed the VIN I blanked it out also. I'm just curious as to the possible dangers of broadcasting this number.

Thanks.

Ken

[ctbruce]

This is one of the best videos on your questions out there. I hope it helps.
https://rvsafety.com/rv-educat...on/matching-trucks-to-trailers

Here is a second one as well. Also very good and helpful.
https://youtu.be/qwFLOBrADBs

[notanlines]

The first video won’t fly, but the second is a very good listen!
The first link might not be current.

[ctbruce]

https://rvsafety.com/rv-education/matching-trucks-to-trailers

This one will work now.

[JRTJH]

Javi (and others) - as a matter of education for me, why is it important to hide the VIN?
...
Ken

Any "internet crook" who has your complete VIN (and access to look up the registration for that vehicle) can obtain your private information such as address, employment, insurance company, lien status of the vehicle, bank, etc. With that information, should you make an "innocent post" that you're going to be at "XYZ campground for Christmas" and wonder if anyone else has been there, then anyone monitoring your posts and armed with that information could, at their leisure, empty your home while you're away, knowing that you won't be home until the day you posted as the last day of your "Christmas vacation"....

Seem "far-fetched" ??? It happens every day. Go to the bottom of this forum "home page" and click on the tab: CURRENT ACTIVE USERS. Right now there are 414 users. 41 are members and 373 are guests. If you click on those "guests" you'll see that they range from Google Spiders (that's where your ads come from when you use the internet) to unknown monitors from Russia, China, Iraq, Iran, Pakistan, Germany, Nigeria and a host of other locations. I assure you, nobody from China, Russia, Iran or Nigeria is interested in a furnace problem with a Keystone trailer. They are on this site monitoring it for "slip-ups" in people who post private information that they can "use later for personal gain".....

Marking out the VIN, not posting your phone number, address, credit card number, etc are all "best practices" in keeping yourself safe from "internet crooks"......

CAUTION IS WARRANTED on any public site where private information can be posted and stolen by unknown crooks.....

[Logan X]

Any "internet crook" who has your complete VIN (and access to look up the registration for that vehicle) can obtain your private information such as address, employment, insurance company, lien status of the vehicle, bank, etc. With that information, should you make an "innocent post" that you're going to be at "XYZ campground for Christmas" and wonder if anyone else has been there, then anyone monitoring your posts and armed with that information could, at their leisure, empty your home while you're away, knowing that you won't be home until the day you posted as the last day of your "Christmas vacation"....

Seem "far-fetched" ??? It happens every day. Go to the bottom of this forum "home page" and click on the tab: CURRENT ACTIVE USERS. Right now there are 414 users. 41 are members and 373 are guests. If you click on those "guests" you'll see that they range from Google Spiders (that's where your ads come from when you use the internet) to unknown monitors from Russia, China, Iraq, Iran, Pakistan, Germany, Nigeria and a host of other locations. I assure you, nobody from China, Russia, Iran or Nigeria is interested in a furnace problem with a Keystone trailer. They are on this site monitoring it for "slip-ups" in people who post private information that they can "use later for personal gain".....

Marking out the VIN, not posting your phone number, address, credit card number, etc are all "best practices" in keeping yourself safe from "internet crooks"......

CAUTION IS WARRANTED on any public site where private information can be posted and stolen by unknown crooks.....

This is very good information, thank you.

[Gegrad]

Marking out the VIN, not posting your phone number, address, credit card number, etc are all "best practices" in keeping yourself safe from "internet crooks"......


John- You are correct, but just by posting your first name and city, an "internet crook" could easily go to your county tax assessor's site, look up all the "John's" in the county and go through them, cross referencing the addresses (and we know you have a house, not an apartment, so that narrows it) with Google Earth to find the aerial image with the pole barn to find your address. Point is, it would be time consuming, but a determined individual could still easily find you, even without addresses or VINs present. Just my 2 cents.

[JRTJH]

John- You are correct, but just by posting your first name and city, an "internet crook" could easily go to your county tax assessor's site, look up all the "John's" in the county and go through them, cross referencing the addresses (and we know you have a house, not an apartment, so that narrows it) with Google Earth to find the aerial image with the pole barn to find your address. Point is, it would be time consuming, but a determined individual could still easily find you, even without addresses or VINs present. Just my 2 cents.

Which is all the more reason to be vigilant with what is posted on an open forum. Remember, right now, 423 people viewing the forum, 40 members and 383 "unknown guests"..... I trust (for the most part) those 40 members. It's the 383 other "monitors of the forum" that I'm unsure of..... YMMV

[Gegrad]

Which is all the more reason to be vigilant with what is posted on an open forum. Remember, right now, 423 people viewing the forum, 40 members and 383 "unknown guests"..... I trust (for the most part) those 40 members. It's the 383 other "monitors of the forum" that I'm unsure of..... YMMV

Yep, agreed 100%

[SummitPond]

Any "internet crook" who has your complete VIN ....


John

That is fascinating information to know. I wouldn't have guessed. One really has to be cautious about everything these days.

As for viewers, I never thought about clicking on that link - in fact, I didn't even know it was a link.

Thanks for the info.

Ken

[JRTJH]

John

That is fascinating information to know. I wouldn't have guessed. One really has to be cautious about everything these days.

As for viewers, I never thought about clicking on that link - in fact, I didn't even know it was a link.

Thanks for the info.

Ken

We are in a "lull period" right now, but routinely we have about 8-20 new members join the forum daily. In the past, we've intercepted and banned a large number (sometimes up to 3 or 4 a day) with IP addresses that originated in Pakistan, China, North Korea, Egypt, Iran, Russia, and various other countries where people typically have no interest in RVing. With the new "IP shadowing technology" the really knowledgeable hackers no longer use IP's that can be traced to their physical location. They "assume an IP identity" in New York, Charleston or any other location in the US or Canada and "shadow" the forum without us being able to readily or easily detect where they are really located.

So, as careful as we are to protect your identity and your information, several times a week, moderators will "edit out personal information" from posts (usually phone numbers and addresses in the classified section) to eliminate as much "data theft" as we can. Even then, it still happens and I've no doubt that of the "unknown guests" currently on the forum, some of them are monitoring everything posted with the hope of finding something "useful".....

[sourdough]

We are in a "lull period" right now, but routinely we have about 8-20 new members join the forum daily. In the past, we've intercepted and banned a large number (sometimes up to 3 or 4 a day) with IP addresses that originated in Pakistan, China, North Korea, Egypt, Iran, Russia, and various other countries where people typically have no interest in RVing. With the new "IP shadowing technology" the really knowledgeable hackers no longer use IP's that can be traced to their physical location. They "assume an IP identity" in New York, Charleston or any other location in the US or Canada and "shadow" the forum without us being able to readily or easily detect where they are really located.

So, as careful as we are to protect your identity and your information, several times a week, moderators will "edit out personal information" from posts (usually phone numbers and addresses in the classified section) to eliminate as much "data theft" as we can. Even then, it still happens and I've no doubt that of the "unknown guests" currently on the forum, some of them are monitoring everything posted with the hope of finding something "useful".....

Thanks to you John and the other moderators for trying to "take care of us". I was on the "front end" of technology and a lead tech person.....in 1979. It was great. Things have changed so drastically it is unbelievable.

I'm not sure how we fix what is happening but I guess the best we can do is try to be aware. The problems we have on the web are mirrored with the problems we have with unwanted calls to our cells, home phones etc. We now get calls daily from "local" land lines, cell numbers that appear to be someone we might know....not hardly. They come from all over the country/world. They "spoof" numbers. It should be, and I think is, illegal, but I've not come up with a way to zap these "terrorists". One day.....

[Gegrad]

We are in a "lull period" right now, but routinely we have about 8-20 new members join the forum daily. In the past, we've intercepted and banned a large number (sometimes up to 3 or 4 a day) with IP addresses that originated in Pakistan, China, North Korea, Egypt, Iran, Russia, and various other countries where people typically have no interest in RVing. With the new "IP shadowing technology" the really knowledgeable hackers no longer use IP's that can be traced to their physical location. They "assume an IP identity" in New York, Charleston or any other location in the US or Canada and "shadow" the forum without us being able to readily or easily detect where they are really located.

So, as careful as we are to protect your identity and your information, several times a week, moderators will "edit out personal information" from posts (usually phone numbers and addresses in the classified section) to eliminate as much "data theft" as we can. Even then, it still happens and I've no doubt that of the "unknown guests" currently on the forum, some of them are monitoring everything posted with the hope of finding something "useful".....

Wow, thanks for giving us some "behind the scenes" information as to what goes into maintaining the site. I had not thought that much about all of the work conducted by the mods!

[Logan X]

Yes, thank you to everyone who works on the site to keep it running smoothly and protect everyone!

[JRTJH]

Wow, thanks for giving us some "behind the scenes" information as to what goes into maintaining the site. I had not thought that much about all of the work conducted by the mods!

First, be aware that the moderators do not receive any compensation for what we do. It's all volunteer (read: FREE) work from each of us.

Just a part of what we do: Every new member application is reviewed, IP address checked (even though often it may be shadowed), every post is read by at least one moderator, usually by 3, 4 or all 5 of us, obvious misspellings in thread titles are corrected (to help make searching easier): It's tough to find "How do I tow my Kerpstine trairler" when someone goes looking for their thread 3 months from now. We help with "how do I" questions, PM's and posts, keep threads organized and with some exceptions (like this one), try to keep them on topic. I think all the mods get PM's daily asking for help or advice on a topic a member doesn't want to post publically. When there's a questionable post, we don't just "shut things down" rather we "behind the scenes" discuss the situation in group PM's. We all offer input and then come up with a "consensus" on how to correct the problem or how to address a situation. There is very little "cowboy approach" to how we communicate with members. Usually all 5 of us are well aware of the situation and have agreed to the course of action, so when one moderator sends you a PM informing you that your post was removed, it's not "just that mod's idea" but typically all 5 of us have already agreed that there's a problem and how to address it.

Very little on the forum is "a one person decision" and even though, if you're on the receiving end, it may come across as "pushing your buttons" none of what we do is intended to be a personal confrontation.

We think we've got a "good little forum" filled with great advice and help, available for a wonderful price (free) and it's all, for the most part, because of the members who contribute by posting advice, personal experiences and problems/solutions they have encountered, hoping to prevent someone else from walking in the same steps... So far, I think we're all (as members) doing a super job and I know I speak for all the moderators when I say that we appreciate every member who helps us keep this forum the best place to get information about Keystone RV's.

Thanks to all of you for making our job easier.

OK site team, do I get my raise now ???? :whistling:

[sourdough]

First, be aware that the moderators do not receive any compensation for what we do. It's all volunteer (read: FREE) work from each of us.

Just a part of what we do: Every new member application is reviewed, IP address checked (even though often it may be shadowed), every post is read by at least one moderator, usually by 3, 4 or all 5 of us, obvious misspellings in thread titles are corrected (to help make searching easier): It's tough to find "How do I tow my Kerpstine trairler" when someone goes looking for their thread 3 months from now. We help with "how do I" questions, PM's and posts, keep threads organized and with some exceptions (like this one), try to keep them on topic. I think all the mods get PM's daily asking for help or advice on a topic a member doesn't want to post publically. When there's a questionable post, we don't just "shut things down" rather we "behind the scenes" discuss the situation in group PM's. We all offer input and then come up with a "consensus" on how to correct the problem or how to address a situation. There is very little "cowboy approach" to how we communicate with members. Usually all 5 of us are well aware of the situation and have agreed to the course of action, so when one moderator sends you a PM informing you that your post was removed, it's not "just that mod's idea" but typically all 5 of us have already agreed that there's a problem and how to address it.

Very little on the forum is "a one person decision" and even though, if you're on the receiving end, it may come across as "pushing your buttons" none of what we do is intended to be a personal confrontation.

We think we've got a "good little forum" filled with great advice and help, available for a wonderful price (free) and it's all, for the most part, because of the members who contribute by posting advice, personal experiences and problems/solutions they have encountered, hoping to prevent someone else from walking in the same steps... So far, I think we're all (as members) doing a super job and I know I speak for all the moderators when I say that we appreciate every member who helps us keep this forum the best place to get information about Keystone RV's.

Thanks to all of you for making our job easier.

OK site team, do I get my raise now ???? :whistling:

Thanks John and site team. In fact I am submitting a RFPR for every site team member (request for pay raise). I know that previously those services were provided for free, but now, under my guidance, you will be compensated at 4 times your normal fee!!

Silliness aside, I will tell you now that this is the best site I belong to; and I belong to many. It actually feels like "family" - guess that comes from when you get this age and you aren't really "tied" to folks like you used to be. I appreciate everything the site does for us, lets us post relevant issues and discuss those things that are important right now.

This is a "good little forum", probably the best I belong to. Of course I don't get to hear all the f words and junk that you would on other, more lively, forums....thank goodness.

And here we are....nothing like a great spot to just talk about what we love...camping and RVs!! Plus, It's Merry Christmas Time....Wishing it to one and ALL!

[66joej]

I also am a member of quite a few forums. Things I like about this one is the wealth of knowledge and the acceptance of my poor attempt at humour, But we do have some real "Bob Hopes" on here and that does lighten up some tense situations. Moderators keep doing what you do it is appreciated.

[cookinwitdiesel]

Good notes on internet etiquette and being safe with your information. I work in cyber-security and cannot emphasize how easy it is for people to get personal information and use it maliciously. Hint, it is very easy.

Back to the original topic, the OP had asked about determining the vehicle dry weight. I would counter that if you just focus on the payload and staying within that spec, then you do not need dry weight. Just plan on max GVWR for the TV (which will imply that you are max payload). Combine that with making sure your trailer is under the max rating for the TV (should be 2 different numbers provided - traditional trailer/bumper pull, and gooseneck/fifth wheel) and you will have the GCWR for the TV. As an added consideration, if you are looking at a fifth wheel, rear axle rating is also important. A large and high-end 5er can easily have a tongue weight over over 3000# on its own. That is weight that is pretty much 100% on your rear axle and tires.

Hope this helps some!

[brodiegg]

Open the driver side door and look for the Max payload. that will tell you how much weight you can add. I had a 1/2 ton that would pull my TT but my payload was 1,000 pounds. So the tongue weight was 850 and if my wife and I got in we were 150 lbs over, an we are thin. You do not want to haul over payload, for safety and legal reasons

[itat]

The sticker payload number is a one time measurement. After buying my truck, I added Line-X bed liner, a tonneau cover and few other mods so IMO, you're best to go to a scale with a full tank of fuel and all your passengers on board and get an actual weight if you want the true available payload number. CAT scales are the best for this since you get individual axle weights.

In the KYD video linked earlier, he assumed some weight for cargo in the bed of the truck but it looks like he didn't account for the weight of the fifth wheel hitch which can be 150# - 300# depending on the model, plus any rails (above bed or below). If you went with the Andersen Ultimate aluminum hitch you'd have to account for the underbed gooseneck hitch unless you have the OEM prep package.

Personally, my goal is to stay under the GVWR, RAWR and GCWR for my truck. I could live with being over the GVWR by maybe 200# but that would be as much risk as I'm willing to take. I know the Engineers build in a safety factor, but I want to enjoy the benefit of the entire safety factor and not compromise my safety in an emergency stopping situation.

[NevadaRich]

John, just hit it on the head about information on sites....I used to work for a large Police Dept. in CA and had a case where the Police Dept. web site was good, but the City payroll site wasn't good....A young girl who got into drugs and was very good on the computer, would stay up all night just looking, got into the city webpage, and was able to get over 60 Officers total information, she sold the info. for big money and made it a living hell for these Officers from car loans to home loans....After she was caught, I interviewed her and she said once your in, she could get everything on a person....she just started or could have hit 2,000 more Officers and who knows how many other City Employees....when she was high, she would stay on the computers for days....LOOKING...Please check your Credit every couple months and your Credits Cards monthly...