Gray "T" handle/control replacement

[Tafakot]

Hi, hello and I'm having a great day.
My "Q" is on replacement or repairing the "T" cable/valve for my Gray tank.
It has gotten "spongey" and doesn't seem to want to close all the way.
I'm a fulltimer and have open and closed both black/Gray a gazillion times and I've flushed both fairly well and pretty often.
Other RVers have suggested theres most likely particulates in the blade grove preventing it from complete closure or...the cable has stretched.
Either way, I'm going to have to open The Belly of the Beast and trace the cable and/or replace it or the mechanism itself.
Not being able to receive blueprints/schematic or even a cartoon drawing from Keystone in order to remedy the issue, I would appreciate some professional (or semi-professional) knowledge on the best way to go about this.
Also, I've been told..."cut the belly pan and tape it up when done" which doesn't play well in my mind.
Having been under the rig numerous times, the thought of dropping the pan is slightly this side of a nightmare.
Ok people...1...2..l3...GO

[Tbos]

Never had to go into the belly on this rig. On my last TT I had to once right below the black tank. I cut a square hole on 3 sides with the hinged side toward the front. I used aluminum tape and gorilla tape to seal it back up. Worked well. A friend just removed the screws and replaced with new ones when he added extra insulation to his 5th wheel. Good luck.

[Ken / Claudia]

It's not that hard to replace or get to the valve. The cut should be 2 sided as mentioned. You can even add a nylon tie through the material in addition to the tape. The dealer only used the nylon ties on a repair for heat duck rips. I added the tape and it's still there after 3 years.

[JRTJH]

The cable actuated dump valves are easy to replace, easier to repair and even easier to adjust/lubricate.... Easy for me to say, mine isn't doing what yours is doing....

That said, the Bowden cable system is exactly the same as the throttle actuator on your lawn mower. A "spring sheath with a steel wire in the middle". Replacements are available, but you may not need to replace it, rather to lube the cable and clean the rubber seals.

If you have (or know someone) that has a motorcycle, they probably have a Bowden cable lube tool, a "hypodermic looking device to inject oil into the Bowden cable. I'd start there, then if possible, reach into the 3" pipe and clean the seals while the valve is open. If you can't reach it, flush the tank well, operate the valve while rinsing the tank (NEVER close it while the tank is emptying waste or you'll push toilet paper and other solids into the groove between the two seals).

If you can't reach the valves through the 3" pipe, you'll need to either drop the coroplast belly or cut it. Sometimes, depending on where the valve is located, you can pull 4 or 5 screws, pull down a part of one side of the coroplast and access the valve. If that won't work, cut a 3 sided flap over the area where the valve is located. Leave the FORWARD "cut" intact and use it as a hinge. Pull the flap down, do your repair/replacement of the valve and then use Gorilla Tape to seal the 3 sides. Be sure to clean the coroplast with alcohol so the tape will stick properly.

Here are a couple of pictures (and a cartoon) of the valve assembly.

[chuckster57]

Easy? Yeah, if it’s a new trailer with clean water during the PDI.

Still easy with “not new” tanks, just a bit nastier.

[Tafakot]

The cable actuated dump valves are easy to replace, easier to repair and even easier to adjust/lubricate.... Easy for me to say, mine isn't doing what yours is doing....

That said, the Bowden cable system is exactly the same as the throttle actuator on your lawn mower. A "spring sheath with a steel wire in the middle". Replacements are available, but you may not need to replace it, rather to lube the cable and clean the rubber seals.

If you have (or know someone) that has a motorcycle, they probably have a Bowden cable lube tool, a "hypodermic looking device to inject oil into the Bowden cable. I'd start there, then if possible, reach into the 3" pipe and clean the seals while the valve is open. If you can't reach it, flush the tank well, operate the valve while rinsing the tank (NEVER close it while the tank is emptying waste or you'll push toilet paper and other solids into the groove between the two seals).

If you can't reach the valves through the 3" pipe, you'll need to either drop the coroplast belly or cut it. Sometimes, depending on where the valve is located, you can pull 4 or 5 screws, pull down a part of one side of the coroplast and access the valve. If that won't work, cut a 3 sided flap over the area where the valve is located. Leave the FORWARD "cut" intact and use it as a hinge. Pull the flap down, do your repair/replacement of the valve and then use Gorilla Tape to seal the 3 sides. Be sure to clean the coroplast with alcohol so the tape will stick properly.

Here are a couple of pictures (and a cartoon) of the valve assembly.
Good to know the options and fixes
Now...not having a diagram, schematic or X-Rays of the underside layout, and having a 46gal Gray tank, 46gal black, 100gal fresh plus (2) 30gal gasoline tanks (1-gen, 1-toys)...just where under the rig is anything located?
I'll drop one side of the pan, and see what I find.
Thanks for getting me started

[scottz]

Why is everyone so eager to cut holes in the coroplast? Just remove the fasteners and take it down. If a dealer every cut a hole in mine, we would have some serious issues.

[Theoldroaddog]

I have a Impact 361 and the black and gray tanks were having issues. I even had the cable come off the black take because the set screw backed out. I cut the belly pan and replaced both valves with Valterra’s electric activated valves. Never had an issue since.

[flybouy]

Good to know the options and fixes
Now...not having a diagram, schematic or X-Rays of the underside layout, and having a 46gal Gray tank, 46gal black, 100gal fresh plus (2) 30gal gasoline tanks (1-gen, 1-toys)...just where under the rig is anything located?
I'll drop one side of the pan, and see what I find.
Thanks for getting me started

Just follow your nose. No smell, fresh water. Smells like the pumps at the gas station, fuel. Smells like the sink, gray water. Smells lie the gas station restroom, bing go! :lol: Seriously, the black tank should be under the toilet or very close to it.

[PARAPTOR]

I had an issue with one of the Gray tanks where the value was not closing all the way, Thought it was a bad or clogged valve/seal. Ended up being the stretched spring sheath around the cable connected to the valve. the stretched section was right at the pull handle connection, Still had to drop the pan to install a new cable. Valve happened to be about 3-4 feet off the street side so only had to remove a few screws and drop the pan enough to reach valve. Really did not expect to find a stretched cable sheath.

Had a split on the top of other gray tank , which was replaced by the dealer under the extended warranty. I specifically directed them to not cut the pan and to just drop it which they did.

[Tafakot]

So far, your ideas are making sense, however, with a toyhauler...theres another half bath in the "garage" area and a separate "dual holding tank (black/gray).
The "pipage" is long from both ends and gather mid rig to the final exit point.
Figuring out which is which, isn't hard to do, its more about access.
Interestingly, the valves are not even close to being in line with cables which cause uneven pulling.

Thanks to everyone for your ideas

[JRTJH]

Tanks on both ends of a trailer is definitely not exclusive to toyhaulers with an extra half bath. The contents (black and gray) may be different, but my Cougar XLite has the galley tank in the back with the black and bathroom gray tanks in the front. There's "pipeage" to the center from both ends, very similar to your arrangement. I've no idea how long the Bowden cables are on my tanks, but I'd guess they are 3'+ on the front two and the back is a 18" solid rod. The two valves with Bowden cables are "not in line with the handles" and the one valve that is "in line with the handle" has a solid rod actuator.

There's nothing "exclusively different" in your tank arrangement (other than contents of the tank) and my Cougar. They all "work the same way, regardless of tank location and "distant tanks" are very common.

[ctbruce]

First check if they are moving freely and closing correctly. Then look at your cables and see if the need to be anchored down a little to restore leverage to the system. If your cable is flopping it might not have enough oomph to close well. Lubing them would also be a good idea.

[huhhhhh]

So far, your ideas are making sense, however, with a toyhauler...theres another half bath in the "garage" area and a separate "dual holding tank (black/gray).
The "pipage" is long from both ends and gather mid rig to the final exit point.
Figuring out which is which, isn't hard to do, its more about access.
Interestingly, the valves are not even close to being in line with cables which cause uneven pulling.

Thanks to everyone for your ideas

I have a Fuzion with the 2nd bath by the garage. That 2nd toilet drops right down into the galley tank so as soon as someone does their business in the 2nd toilet it turns the galley grey tank into a black tank.:banghead: I really wish Keystoned would stop hiring their employees from under bridges. Shame on you Keystoned.:hornets:

[Phil Saran]

I’ve got a new 2019 Keystone Cougar 30 RLS 5th wheel trailer and the black and the one grey tank releases are miss marked.

[Irv gates]

Rinse the tank with soap and water, Drop the pan under it and you should be good to go. My last trailer I didnt drop the tank, because I had access to the valve on the side of the tank. Hope yours is that easy also. Happy trails

[rbrdriver]

In regards to cutting the "belly" I've done that many times on mine doing minor repairs and mods. No big deal. Gorilla tape works just fine on sealing it back. The way the coraplast is installed on mine you really don't have much choice.

[chuckster57]

There is a tape called scrim tape made specifically for coroplast. Gorilla tape is ok for a while but it eventually peels. Scrim tape stays put for years.

[rbrdriver]

There is a tape called scrim tape made specifically for coroplast. Gorilla tape is ok for a while but it eventually peels. Scrim tape stays put for years.

Thanks for that info! I will look for some now!:cool:

[sourdough]

Thanks for that info! I will look for some now!:cool:


Here is the stuff I bought for repairs if/when they arise. I've not had to use it but just carry it with me. It's supposed to be good stuff and I believe about the same, if not the same, as scrim tape. I got my Flex Mend on Amazon.

https://americansupplyandairproducts.com/product/flex-mend-4-x-100/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMItKmzzPfM3wIV2FqGCh1ZDAMuEAQYAyA BEgKXGPD_BwE

[chuckster57]

Looks the same. I never have looked at the roll I keep to see if maybe scrim isn’t a brand name, kind of like Kleenex is to tissue.