Torn roof

[HIDE-EE]

So I just got back from a trip and was getting ready to take the fifth wheel back to storage when I looked up and noticed the corner of the roof on the right side looked different. I got on the roof to find I apparently got too close to a tree and it tore the rubber roof right on the corner. About 2 or 3 feet is torn. I don’t see any other damage it was on the right side closer to the front but no damage to the cap or awning. I didn’t hear anything and really don’t even know when it happened. I’m calling the dealership and insurance tomorrow but wondering how it might get fixed? Can they patch it or am I getting a new roof?😐

[chuckster57]

It can be patched with eternabond tape. Easy and inexpensive compared to a new roof. Eternabond tape is less than $100.00 for a roll, new roof is in the $5,000.00-$7,000.00 range.

[flybouy]

Get the eterabond cleaner if you get the tape. I had a similar experience six years ago on the curb side in the back that's about 8"long. I used the eterabond cleaner and tape. Also sealed the edges of the tape with dicor self leveling. It's been good for 6 + years so far.

[sourdough]

I have to chime in that the Eternabond tape is probably the answer. Not expensive and easy to apply....clean thoroughly before applying.

[HIDE-EE]

So will the eternabond work on the corner? There isn’t much of the roof material going down the side so I’m wondering if it will have enough to seal to.

[chuckster57]

As long as you clean it and then seal the edges. If your tape will be on a vertical surface at all use non self leveling Dicor.

[Wing-in-it]

Eternabond will stick and probably never come off again....so make sure when you’re gonna put it down it’s where you want it to be!

Great stuff!

[mazboy]

chuck, up above said it all. the tape or a new roof.....

[roadglide]

My experience is I got a mystery rip and fixed it 2 days before I went on Oregon trip this year that didn't hold . I redid it on the road that didn't didn't hold . The rip was along the ac . I'm thinking the cap let air in and ballooned the rubber . I had some 3/32 4×8 sheets of aluiumn and bought 12 tubes of decor and rool of edaibond tape from Amazon 1 gallon of edaibond paint from Amazon lots of screws sealed and painted the aluiumn. If your lucky the wind didn't balloon the roof . And seal the cap good . I had havoc trying trying to seal under the tear with industrial spray contact , luckily the roof didn't get wet . Hopefully you have better luck then I. On the bright side I'll have more support for my 250 watt solar panels .

[travelin texans]

If you need the new roof check out RV Armor roof coating. It's a spray on similar to truck bed liners except designed for rvs. They come to you to do the install & it's garranteed for life. I would do this long before I'd have a dealer just replace the roof membrane, cost is close to the same, but much more durable.

[TLB]

It can be patched with eternabond tape. Easy and inexpensive compared to a new roof. Eternabond tape is less than $100.00 for a roll, new roof is in the $5,000.00-$7,000.00 range.

Once again chuckster57 is the person with the answers ;)

[JRTJH]

Once again chuckster57 is the person with the answers ;)

I agree !!! If the tear is "too close to the edge "rollover" and there's not enough along the side to adhere, just remove the "gutter molding" in that area, apply the Eternabond tape "all the way to the edge of the TPO", reinstall the "gutter molding" over the Eternabond and then seal with DICOR self leveling sealant on "horizontal surfaces" and DICOR non self leveling sealant on "vertical surfaces"....

No need to make it any more "painful to talk about than to perform the repair"....

On the other hand, if the insurance company opts to replace the roof and your deductible is less than the "Eternabond repair" then you've got to either "flip a coin" or "make a decision".... Otherwise, Eternabond and DICOR seem the most logical (as well as economical) repair choice.

[66joej]

I agree !!! If the tear is "too close to the edge "rollover" and there's not enough along the side to adhere, just remove the "gutter molding" in that area, apply the Eternabond tape "all the way to the edge of the TPO", reinstall the "gutter molding" over the Eternabond and then seal with DICOR self leveling sealant on "horizontal surfaces" and DICOR non self leveling sealant on "vertical surfaces"....

No need to make it any more "painful to talk about than to perform the repair"....

On the other hand, if the insurance company opts to replace the roof and your deductible is less than the "Eternabond repair" then you've got to either "flip a coin" or "make a decision".... Otherwise, Eternabond and DICOR seem the most logical (as well as economical) repair choice.

Also take into consideration the increase in insurance premiums which will surely happen. Save the claim for a total write off. I wish I had done that.JMO

[wiredgeorge]

If you need the new roof check out RV Armor roof coating. It's a spray on similar to truck bed liners except designed for rvs. They come to you to do the install & it's garranteed for life. I would do this long before I'd have a dealer just replace the roof membrane, cost is close to the same, but much more durable.

RV-Armor tech comes to your trailer and performs the work. First, they go over every inch and clean and repair what needs fixing. Then 2 part epoxy type stuff (not sure what it is but it is two part) to allow bonding of their top coat product to the rubber roof. Then they ROLL their product on the roof. Two coats and it is thick and tough and guaranteed forever. The guarantee papers have your VIN and it is FULLY transferable to the next owner. Contact me via PM if you need more info or tips on this product. Just ripped my roof and the insurance company bought me an RV-Armor roof. Was also a lot cheaper than a new rubber roof.

There are other products out there that are sprayed on and some of them are really good but you have to take your trailer to an install facility and leave it for the work to be done.

[wiredgeorge]

Also take into consideration the increase in insurance premiums which will surely happen. Save the claim for a total write off. I wish I had done that.JMO

I think it depends on the insurance company. We insure our 5ver (and several bikes) through Progressive and have never had our rates go up after a claim. period. Other insurance companies may be different in that regard.

[HIDE-EE]

Thanks for the input. I called my insurance and they are going to send someone to give me a quote. I also called my dealer and they told me to send them pictures so they have some idea of the damage, but also then told me they can’t take on a roof job until January. So I definitely have to do something in the meantime. I will check out the rv armor roof if replacement is needed and in the meantime I’m going to get the eternabond and see what I can do. One thing the dealer said that made sense to me was that if they were to patch it they wanted to pull the wall out and get the eternabond behind the wall to make sure it sealed well. It’s a good thing camping is so much fun because otherwise it might make you crazy

[fatjack22]

Just to chime in we had something hit us on the interstate that tore our roof this year, I have Progressive and they covered everything. New PVC roof and my rates have not increased. The whole process was super easy. One thing the repair guy suggested was acceptable damage to reduce my 1k deductible essentially I accepted the scratches on the AC cover all were superficial.

[Tatanka Ob Waci]

Research Flexarmor. Insurance pays for it and you will never have to do any maintenance to your roof again. Lifetime warranty that transfers with sale of trailer.

[JRTJH]

We've had several threads that discussed using "Line-X" as a roof coating. When you look at the chemical properties of Flex Armor or Roof Armor, they are essentially the same (or very similar) as Line-X.

Poly-urea coating is the "base product" for most "spray on roof coatings" and Poly-urea is the "base product" for Line-X.

Seems the local Line-X dealer that spray coated a couple of RV's in this area several years ago was a "front runner" to the Flex Armor industry LOL

I'd say that if it lasts 10 years or more in a pickup bed without damage, it should survive almost anything (short of a falling tree) on an RV roof.

Who knows, it may even replace TPO (wishful thinking) as a Keystone standard feature or optional item......

[travelin texans]

We've had several threads that discussed using "Line-X" as a roof coating. When you look at the chemical properties of Flex Armor or Roof Armor, they are essentially the same (or very similar) as Line-X.

Poly-urea coating is the "base product" for most "spray on roof coatings" and Poly-urea is the "base product" for Line-X.

Seems the local Line-X dealer that spray coated a couple of RV's in this area several years ago was a "front runner" to the Flex Armor industry LOL

I'd say that if it lasts 10 years or more in a pickup bed without damage, it should survive almost anything (short of a falling tree) on an RV roof.

Who knows, it may even replace TPO (wishful thinking) as a Keystone standard feature or optional item......

I think the biggest difference would be the "flex", the rv coatings spray over the original roof material so therefore has to have a good amount of flex. The Line X seems to be much harder & sprayed onto surfaces that do not flex. The Rhino lining may be better to try on a roof as it's more rubbery, softer, less hardner than Line X.

[JRTJH]

I think the biggest difference would be the "flex", the rv coatings spray over the original roof material so therefore has to have a good amount of flex. The Line X seems to be much harder & sprayed onto surfaces that do not flex. The Rhino lining may be better to try on a roof as it's more rubbery, softer, less hardner than Line X.

Maybe so maybe not.... I think when it gets down to the "one is more flexible than the other" (when applied to a OSB base over a 30' span), it becomes a discussion similar to "blue Dawn is better/not better than Dawn Ultra or Dawn Platinum".... They're the same chemical composition with less carrier agent, much like Line-X is the same poly-urea as Flex Armor, just a different color and less "curing agent" so it sets up "more rubbery". If you go to a Line-X dealer, take a look at their samples, it's a "thinner coating" that's half as thick as Rhino Liner, but not quite as flexible, although you can easily fold it in half without breaking. They're essentially the same coating material, applied with slightly different techniques and chemical carriers, which gives a slightly different outcome. Essentially, it looks like one is marketed for truck beds, one is marketed for RV roofs. Similar to "semi gloss latex" and "satin latex", one is marketed for bathrooms and one is marketed for bedroom, but both essentially the same latex paint....

[msp2jxr]

[QUOTE=HIDE-EE;315166]So I just got back from a trip and was getting ready to take the fifth wheel back to storage when I looked up and noticed the corner of the roof on the right side looked different. I got on the roof to find I apparently got too close to a tree and it tore the rubber roof right on the corner. About 2 or 3 feet is torn. I don’t see any other damage it was on the right side closer to the front but no damage to the cap or awning. I didn’t hear anything and really don’t even know when it happened. I’m calling the dealership and insurance tomorrow but wondering how it might get fixed? Can they patch it or am I getting a new roof?😐[/QUO

I did the same thing to the corner of my rubber roof. It will be a new roof to the tune of $6,100 . I patched it while we were on the road that was guaranteed for 25 years. The dealer did not recommend leaving the patch because it was on the corner. I think yours will be the same as mine.