Anderson Hitch vs Pullrite Superlite

[Kojak]

Any thoughts on these two fifth wheel hitches? I currently own a Curtis 24K on a Ram 3500 factory pick system but its getting to be a pain in the *** when I want to remove it so I’m looking for something light weight. I can’t decide between the Anderson hitch or the Pullrite Superlite. Any thoughts?

[Canonman]

I can only speak for the Anderson. It has worked well for us. No issues what so ever. Plus, their customer service folks are great. They answer the phone and have always taken the time to help with any questions. I'd be happy to provide details if needed.
Anderson was first to market with their design. The Pullrite model came along much later. That means there are many more of the Anderson's installed and in use. NO noise, no chucking, no problems.
Finally, the idea of being able to easily remove the hitch so the truck bed is fully available for regular use works exactly as advertised. No Problem! You simply loosen three bolts pull a pin and lift the whole hitch out. 5 minutes tops. By yourself.
Bottom line: 100% satisfied!

[chuckster57]

I have seen both in person, don't have a preference. The pull rite will mount to the puck system but the Anderson requires the ball.

[idcruiserman]

Loved the Andersen, especially since it's from Idaho ��. No experience with the other one.

[Getn off]

No experience with these two, but I wanted a lighter option to remove when not used. I went with the Demco 21k. Absolutely love it. Top weighs about 50, and the base around 75. Easy to use, and fairly light.
Troy

[roadglide]

I have seen both in person, don't have a preference. The pull rite will mount to the puck system but the Anderson requires the ball.
The puck system is extremely heavy 2 part system , I think Chevy and dodge interchange ball for Anderson hitch maybe the puck system as well.

[chuckster57]

The puck system is extremely heavy 2 part system , I think Chevy and dodge interchange ball for Anderson hitch maybe the puck system as well.

We have installed the puck system in lots of new trucks that didn’t have the factory system. It’s essentially 4 holes in the bed that the hitch sets into. The Pull Rite used these 4 holes to “mount” the hitch. The gooseneck version uses a 4” hole in the center of the bed just forward of the rear axle. Often times it’s the B&W “turn ball”.

[roadglide]

We have installed the puck system in lots of new trucks that didn’t have the factory system. It’s essentially 4 holes in the bed that the hitch sets into. The Pull Rite used these 4 holes to “mount” the hitch. The gooseneck version uses a 4” hole in the center of the bed just forward of the rear axle. Often times it’s the B&W “turn ball”. the wheel roller adapter is heavy and goes into the puck system . I have the factory installed system you mention. I had to Google that appartus made by curt.

[chuckster57]

the wheel roller adapter is heavy and goes into the puck system . I have the factory installed system you mention. I had to Google that appartus made by curt.

I think your talking about the Pull Rite super GLIDE auto slider. The OP is asking about the Pull RIte super LITE.

[roadglide]

I think your talking about the Pull Rite super GLIDE auto slider. The OP is asking about the Pull RIte super LITE. I cant find any Anderson except the ultimate hitch and tow bars. I think he is talking about the ball king pin and pull rite lite hitch . Wheely roller adapter from curt sets into the puck system.

[chuckster57]

I cant find any Anderson except the ultimate hitch and tow bars. I think he is talking about the ball king pin and pull rite lite hitch . Wheely roller adapter from curt sets into the puck system.

Not Anderson. Pull Rite

http://www.pullrite.com/products/superlite-series

[KOZKO]

ANDERSEN! I never have any issues or noises, etc.

[RoscoeV]

I have the Anderson Ultimate hitch and Love it. It's very quiet, can easily be removed from the truck bed, weights ~39 lbs, and very easy to hitch and unhitch the 5er.

[gearhead]

I've got the PullRite SuperLite and really like it. I switched from a Curt Q20 with factory puck. I considered the Andersen, but I got a pretty good deal on the PullRite. If I remember it was at least $100 cheaper than Andersen. It is easy to remove by myself. But it is about 10-15 pounds heavier than Andersen. My perception is that the PullRite has a smaller "footprint" in the truck bed. It is steel vs. aluminum of the Andersen. They both work the same but are opposite in that the PullRite has the ball on the 5th pinbox and Andersen has the ball in the truck. The Andersen has a cable operated release that you will have to attach to the underside of the 5th, the PullRite release is in the truck bed and is operated with a supplied hook.
Either one would be an improvement over the conventional type hitch. Both should be equally easier to hitch up to and to unhook.
Edit add: If you have anything other than the bare bones pin on the 5th you should check with both manufacturers to be sure their hitch is compatible. It seems PullRite required a certain brand of pin hitch to be "locked down". That may have been a MoreRyde slider. I have a 5thAirborne and it works fine.
If you have the factory puck system you just need to buy a gooseneck ball and you're good to go.

[Kojak]

I've got the PullRite SuperLite and really like it. I switched from a Curt Q20 with factory puck. I considered the Andersen, but I got a pretty good deal on the PullRite. If I remember it was at least $100 cheaper than Andersen. It is easy to remove by myself. But it is about 10-15 pounds heavier than Andersen. My perception is that the PullRite has a smaller "footprint" in the truck bed. It is steel vs. aluminum of the Andersen. They both work the same but are opposite in that the PullRite has the ball on the 5th pinbox and Andersen has the ball in the truck. The Andersen has a cable operated release that you will have to attach to the underside of the 5th, the PullRite release is in the truck bed and is operated with a supplied hook.
Either one would be an improvement over the conventional type hitch. Both should be equally easier to hitch up to and to unhook.
Edit add: If you have anything other than the bare bones pin on the 5th you should check with both manufacturers to be sure their hitch is compatible. It seems PullRite required a certain brand of pin hitch to be "locked down". That may have been a MoreRyde slider. I have a 5thAirborne and it works fine.
If you have the factory puck system you just need to buy a gooseneck ball and you're good to go.

I currently have the Curt 24K. No issues with the ride but it is a pain to get in and out by myself. I plan on using the single point connection since my truck came with the factory pick system. I called Pullrite yesterday but I guess I do have to by the ball connection that goes in the bed separately. I’m liking the smaller footprint of the Pullrite.

[gearhead]

Yeah, you will have to buy the gooseneck ball with either PullRite or Andersen, so that's a wash. I think I bought a Curt ball off Amazon.
You might check Tweetys RV parts for their price, and maybe Amazon.
I bought a engine puller from Harbor Freight to get my Curt in and out. Total pain in the rear.

[PKONolan]

I have been using an Anderson No-Sway with an adjustable drop hitch to tow a Keystone Passport 2400BH behind a Toyota Tacoma 4 Door (yes, a half ton six cylinder) with load rating E tires and a Toytec Add-a-Leaf 2.5 inch lift in back with a comparable lift in front. The total camper weight, as pulled is around 5,500 pounds. The Anderson works like a charm even when I have been buffeted by side winds that outflow from our summer storms here. It is very easy to set up and install each time. Furthermore, you don’t have to remove it to back into a space.

It has a milled aluminum housing and ball which makes it pretty light. The ball rides on a brake material that helps minimize sway (and the chains provide weight distribution and sway control). Don’t let the aluminum ball sway your decision, though. It is an incredibly strong alloy which is corrosion proof and the ball turns with the trailer hitch (inside the braking material) so there is zero abrasion to the surface of the ball.

The ease of adjustability is my favorite feature. My trailer and truck are so well lined up, a side shot on level ground makes them look as if they are one unit. And as others have said, Anderson has the best customer service in the business.

The one draw back is you have to back your unit in at approximately the same angle that it was when you uncoupled since the chain bracket needs to be close to perpendicular to the trailer to get the chains to reach and there is no way you are moving the bracket by hand because the ball friction in the braking material is pretty intense. However, you can move it a little with the bolts and nuts on the chains so, if you raise up the trailer jack after attaching it to the ball so that the distance is reduced, even if you just catch a few threads on the short side of the chains, you can crank it into alignment with the socket. With a quick mental note of what angle I am at before I uncouple, I always hit it on the first try. Only the first few times using it did I need a couple shots.

I’m very glad I opted for this fairly new technology 4 years ago. The braking material is also warranteed for life (as is the whole hitch, I believe). I haven’t had to replace mine but I have checked it a couple times. I just turn the hitch upside down in the receiver, take the lock ring out and tap the ball out with a small sledge hammer hitting a 2x4 on the backside of the ball with a shipping blanket on the ground to protect the ball from damage.

[chuckster57]

PKONolan: the OP is asking about 5Th wheel hitches not bumper pull.

[Dieselpump]

I own the BW 5th wheel hitch and I love it. Easy to put in the truck and easy to remove. It will also work with the Puck system.

[alpo]

I will be upgrading to a 5th wheel in the future and one of these seems to way to go to save Pin Weight. However Only having an “uneducated” opinion I would think that a 4 point attachment (PullRight using the Factory Puck System) would possibly be more solid and stronger than the Single point attachment (Anderson using the Bed Hitch Ball). When reviewing the Anderson instructions the Hitch is “Torqued” down onto the Bed Ball which in turn presses the Hitch Frame down onto the Bed of the Truck. Does anyone else see how this might be less strong that using the Pucks, or how the Frame might do some damage to the Surface of the Bed while towing with the radial and axial forces being exerted on the Anderson Hitch Frame being transmitted down through the outer edges of Hitch Frame to the Bed.

[zuley]

Correct me if I am wrong here please. I've been researching both hitches for when we pull the trigger and order our new 5th wheel. I've got an 18 2500 Ram with the Cummins. Ordered the truck with the factory 5th wheel prep pkg. Doing my reading it appears as though the Pullrite mounts and lines up directly over the ball mount whereas the Andersen has about a 6 inch offset moving the pin towards the rear of the truck therefore eliminating the need for a slider when used in a 6 foot box.

Asking for verification here please.

.

[alpo]

Keep in mind the further the actual Hitch Point is moved toward the Rear of the Truck, the more Weight it places on the Rear Axle. Think of it like your arm, hold your arm out and place some weight on it close to your elbow - then move it further and further out, it gets heavier and heavier. Having a 3/4 Tom Ram with a Cummins myself I bet Available Pin Weight is a LARGE concern and our most limiting factor regarding 5th Wheels.

[skdooman2004]

I have the aluminum one , 39 lbs. no clanking or banging. buying a small pull behind thou, so I thought about selling it. excellent cond , not sure where you're at I'm in Pennsylvania,

[Bobmueller]

I have an aluminum Anderson hitch in my 1 ton GMC standard bed. I’m pulling a 36’ Montana (by Keystone).
You can pretty much carry the hitch to the bed with one hand if you wanted to.
It installs on just minutes. Just flip the ball to the up position, lay your hitch over the top of the ball, put in the cotter pin, tighten the three bolts to 40 PSI and you’re ready to haul your fifth wheel.
When you get to where you’re going (Aguanga Ca. And Yuma for us) just pull your Anderson hitch out by loosening the bolts, pull the cotter pin and lift out ( one handed if you’re showing off) flip the ball over and put back into the bed, lock it in place with the spring release catch that was installed at inititial installation above the left rear tire, put the rubber hole cover over the pin. You are now the guy that gets to haul all the golf clubs to the course.

[Bobmueller]

It helps but you still can’t turn 90 degrees. I found out the hard way. Although with that in mind I’m careful on tight back ins. And have no problems.

[rmhaney]

I have the Anderson and enjoy pulling with it. However, I still consider it a hassle having to pull it out to hook up to a gooseneck cattle trailer. I am switching to the Reese Goosebox for my 5th wheel with a LIPPERT1116 pin box.

[alpo]

I have seen a “Gooseneck” adapter for RVs as well. It gets Bolted the 5th Wheel in place of the Stock Reciever - you hookup just like a Cattle/Farm Trailer. It also weighs FAR less than the Standard Hitch Assemblies that are being used. I’m actually surprised that Goodenecks aren’t more prevalent in 5th Wheel use. They have to be pretty strong considering the loads you see using them, all the while consisting of far less mass.

[SteMax]

I love my Andersen! Lightweight easy to use no bucking no chucking just a solid connection.
Buuuuuutttttttt the Reese gooseball is a replacement pin box it doesn’t void warranties and all you have in the bed is the ball.

[chuckster57]

I love my Andersen! Lightweight easy to use no bucking no chucking just a solid connection.
Buuuuuutttttttt the Reese gooseball is a replacement pin box it doesn’t void warranties and all you have in the bed is the ball.
And the Goosebox has an internal "air bag" that helps even more for a smooth ride. Just installed one Friday.

[alpo]

Reese Gooseball is the one I saw. The biggest Drawback I see is it may void any warranty on your Trailer (actually pretty likely), which to me is pretty important. I also don’t see the associated weight, but I assume it to be measurable, making it a pretty attractive option.

[chuckster57]

Reese goosebox does not void the lippert frame warranty.

[Bnrc73]

Just a word of advice on this style of hitch. Make sure you carry the tools needed to remove the hardware from the pinbox. If your TV breaks down not to many good Samaritans will have the hitch to get you rig to a safe location.

[ancha71]

I have the SuperGlide hitch and have been most disappointed with it. The hitch itself is solid and has performed admirably, however hooking up and disconnecting have been most challenging to the point where I am considering trading in my 5th wheel for a TT. You have about a 3/8 inch window to engage the hitch mechanism when connecting and you have to be aligned exactly with truck bed and hitch pin. Unhooking has its challenges as well. sometimes you have to "bump" the truck to get the hitch mechanism to release so you can disengage the handle.

Positive is I can turn almost 90 degrees with my short bed as the hitch mechanism moved up and down the rails.


While camping in New Mexico, a neighbor showed me his Pullrite that all you had to do was get the hitch pin at the bottom of a bowl like structure where it locked in place.

Good luck in your endeavor to find a hitch.

[Kojak]

I have the aluminum one , 39 lbs. no clanking or banging. buying a small pull behind thou, so I thought about selling it. excellent cond , not sure where you're at I'm in Pennsylvania

Thank you but I’m in Los Angeles, Ca.

[Erin Barr]

Love my Aluminum Anderson Hitch!

[krisbc1]

Had a B&W fifth wheel hitch, just too heavy to handle it by myself.
I have since changed to "The Andersen Ultimate" it's a pleasure to be able to remove and install effortlessly by my lonesome.

[SR71 Jet Mech]

Have been using the Anderson hitch for 2 years now and love it. I have the aluminum model. Very easy to install and remove. Very easy to couple the trailer to also. Can’t speak for the other but as long as I have a fiver it’ll be an Anderson for me.

[Bnrc73]

I have the SuperGlide hitch and have been most disappointed with it. The hitch itself is solid and has performed admirably, however hooking up and disconnecting have been most challenging to the point where I am considering trading in my 5th wheel for a TT. You have about a 3/8 inch window to engage the hitch mechanism when connecting and you have to be aligned exactly with truck bed and hitch pin. Unhooking has its challenges as well. sometimes you have to "bump" the truck to get the hitch mechanism to release so you can disengage the handle.

Positive is I can turn almost 90 degrees with my short bed as the hitch mechanism moved up and down the rails.


While camping in New Mexico, a neighbor showed me his Pullrite that all you had to do was get the hitch pin at the bottom of a bowl like structure where it locked in place.

Good luck in your endeavor to find a hitch.

If I could offer you a tip for an easy hookup. Glue a paint stick or something similar to a magnet, place this on your ball and back up to the trailer. This makes it very easy to put your hitch pin exactly on center. When you get about a 45 degree tilt on your stick just lock it in with your emergency brake and you should have a perfect alignment for t h at easy hookup. This hack is a lot cheaper than changing out your hitch. Happy Camping

[sfem192]

I have the Anderson hitch and it has performed great. It is very easy to hookup. It has a funnel shaped receiver and you can be off more than two inches in any direction and still be able to get the ball inside the receiver. Then just push the cable in and it is locked in place. I was skeptical when I first got it but it has performed extremely well. I have the rail system in the bed and just pull out four pins and off it comes. It is also easy to put a long hasp lock on it for security. Someone mentioned about if you had a breakdown with TV. To convert bag to king pin just loosen 4 Allen head screws and remove 1bolt and you are back to 5er.

[JBrophy]

Any thoughts on these two fifth wheel hitches? I currently own a Curtis 24K on a Ram 3500 factory pick system but its getting to be a pain in the *** when I want to remove it so I’m looking for something light weight. I can’t decide between the Anderson hitch or the Pullrite Superlite. Any thoughts?
I personally have a Demko 18K auto-slide hitch that I attach to under bed rails I installed in our Chevy 2500 HD but it is a heavy hitch that I can't remove without help...I too was thinking of the Anderson Hitch.. but here is a recent post on a RV Facebook post of an Anderson Hitch..not saying this is a bad hitch, or what caused the failure...but no matter what hitch you use...caution, common sense and safety all need to remain paramount.

[Bobmueller]

If I could offer you a tip for an easy hookup. Glue a paint stick or something similar to a magnet, place this on your ball and back up to the trailer. This makes it very easy to put your hitch pin exactly on center. When you get about a 45 degree tilt on your stick just lock it in with your emergency brake and you should have a perfect alignment for t h at easy hookup. This hack is a lot cheaper than changing out your hitch. Happy Camping
That is a good tip. Using a paint stick or ruler and glueing it to a magnet. Then attaching to the ball. I use an “Eye Ball” camera while hooking up to my Anderson hitch and it works okay. But the paint stick idea will only make it easier. Thanks for the tip.

[Jerry S]

Anderson and never looked back. About 5 minutes to set up and remove. coupled with the B&W Gooseneck hitch, this setup is a dream to use. When you unhook and take the Anderson off you turn over the Gooseneck ball and have a flat bed in your pickup. I do keep a torq wrench in my pickup for torquing the 3 bolts that hold the Anderson to the Gooseneck ball. The Anderson weighs 39lbs and this old 72 year can install and remove with one hand tied behind my back. :-)


\Any thoughts on these two fifth wheel hitches? I currently own a Curtis 24K on a Ram 3500 factory pick system but its getting to be a pain in the *** when I want to remove it so I’m looking for something light weight. I can’t decide between the Anderson hitch or the Pullrite Superlite. Any thoughts?

[sponge60]

Absolutely love the Andersen Ultimate.

[Wing-in-it]

i love my Q24 hitch....it’s on a slider too...So I’ll keep it.

A cheaper fix for me was to buy a used 5x10 landscape trailer for $400.00

No need to ever pull my hitch now. Plus my hitch, air ride compressor and aux fuel tank stay under a flip tonneau cover and never sees bad weather.

Just one fix...

[7Iron]

Correct me if I am wrong here please. I've been researching both hitches for when we pull the trigger and order our new 5th wheel. ... Doing my reading it appears as though the Pullrite mounts and lines up directly over the ball mount whereas the Andersen has about a 6 inch offset moving the pin towards the rear of the truck therefore eliminating the need for a slider when used in a 6 foot box.

Asking for verification here please.

.

I can't find an answer to zuley's question....I think he is correct, but I am an extreme 5er rookie (have not yet purchased) but will within the next few months and will settle for either the Anderson or Pullrite....

But don't understand the pros and cons of either

....if the Pullrite puts the weight directly over axle that seems to be a better configuration...than shifting weight a half foot aft.....???? yes / no ??

[travelin texans]

IIRC to be called a fifth wheel the hitch should be directly over or slightly forward of the rear axle, behind the axle it's a trailer, technically the same as a travel trailer.

[roadglide]

I have the Anderson ultimate hitch designed for fuel cell mine sets 9 1/2 . The connection on the trailer box is setting forward center 5 inches . With the fuel cell my hitch sets back further . I suppose the hitch box is added into the the extended Leingh. I think with short bed you would have to keep eye on the truck cab . I have the standard bed 79 inches anderson hitch I have 88 inches . With my previous 69 inchshort bed I had to watch the cab close . I had no experience towing with short bed and Anderson hitch. I would order the fuel cell hitch there is more Room for fuel tank. Call Anderson direct and talk with sale rep they match Amazon price and answer all your questions.

[Jerry S]

You will not be able to tell if the hitch is right over the axle or 6" behind it. I tow with a short bed Dodge Ram 2500 and have never even come close to the cab even when doing some sharp turns backing up. Most later model 5th wheel trailer have front caps designed to allow more room when turning sharp. The Anderson hitch advantages so out weigh any disadvantages. Just today I removed my Hitch from the bed of my pickup and had it done in less than 3 minutes and carried it out one handed and that time included getting the socket out to loosen the three bolts....
You have probably already watched this video but it explains just how simple this is to set up. https://youtu.be/SkjTuq_kc9M

[roadglide]

Most of rams short bed are 76 inches that would be called standard bed on a Chevy. Dodge is calling 74 to 76 inch a short bed . What is your TV 7iron?

[7Iron]

Most of rams short bed are 76 inches that would be called standard bed on a Chevy. Dodge is calling 74 to 76 inch a short bed . What is your TV 7iron?

Yesterday I just purchased a 2018 6.7PS F350 SRW LB(176") CB...getting prep'd for a 5er, we currently have a TT

What I am struggling with is the impact on Rear Axle wt when you add a 6" aft lever (offsetting the pin 6 inches to the rear) . I am certain there is some physics at play, I just haven't noodled what.

To mentally test if impacted, I imagined a 60ft rear lever....(offset the pin 60ft), there would be a substantial reduction to frnt axle load and a significant increase to the rear axle load....what does 6" do? (what is the math...is it closer to 6lb, 60lb or 600lb impact)

[gearhead]

With the Pullrite Superlite you have the choice of how you mount the ball on the trailer. A bit forward for more truck to 5th cap clearance, or swing it around 180 degrees for less clearance. It's not much difference, maybe 3-4 inches.

[ctbruce]

Yesterday I just purchased a 2018 6.7PS F350 SRW LB(176") CB...getting prep'd for a 5er, we currently have a TT

What I am struggling with is the impact on Rear Axle wt when you add a 6" aft lever (offsetting the pin 6 inches to the rear) . I am certain there is some physics at play, I just haven't noodled what.

To mentally test if impacted, I imagined a 60ft rear lever....(offset the pin 60ft), there would be a substantial reduction to frnt axle load and a significant increase to the rear axle load....what does 6" do? (what is the math...is it closer to 6lb, 60lb or 600lb impact)One of the engineer guys will have to respond on this, but I'm pretty sure you dont have a 60 ft fulcrum. It will be at the axles, so closer to 40ish foot. If you move the connection point back, maybe that causes a second fulcrum? The Anderson guys should be able to answer this. I'd call them.

[dbear]

The fulcrum is actually the truck rear axle. The formula to calculate the resulting force at the front axle is F1*D1 = F2*D2, where F1 = FA unloading, D1 = truck wheelbase, F2 = trailer pin weight (downward force), and D2 = hitch to RA distance. Solving for F1 = (F2*D2)/D1. Guessing a 5er weight of 15K# with a 3K# pin weight. Using your truck wheelbase (176”) and hitch 6” aft of RA, the resulting unloading of the front axle would be around 102#.

[ctbruce]

The fulcrum is actually the truck rear axle. The formula to calculate the resulting force at the front axle is F1*D1 = F2*D2, where F1 = FA unloading, D1 = truck wheelbase, F2 = trailer pin weight (downward force), and D2 = hitch to RA distance. Solving for F1 = (F2*D2)/D1. Guessing a 5er weight of 15K# with a 3K# pin weight. Using your truck wheelbase (176”) and hitch 6” aft of RA, the resulting unloading of the front axle would be around 102#.And there you go. Thanks.

[roadglide]

I'll string line the bed pin later on to the center axle , the hitch looks near center . I know the goose box adapter extends 5 inches center to center forward . That extends the turning radius. Where is the weight being distributed with extended goose box?

[andyrad]

With the Pullrite Superlite you have the choice of how you mount the ball on the trailer. A bit forward for more truck to 5th cap clearance, or swing it around 180 degrees for less clearance. It's not much difference, maybe 3-4 inches.

I tried the Pullrite and with the offset ball thingy it ended up messing with my Trailair rubber isolating pad on the pinbox. Crushed it at the front to the point that I was uncomfortable towing with it. Pullrite offered up a steel tubing spacer solution but all it did was nullify the rubber isolation pad. Stick with a good 5th wheel hitch and get some sort of truck crane attachment for your rear hitch to remove the 5th wheel hitch.

[rfpete5287]

What kind of truck cab clearance do you have on tight turns.

[rhaney]

I had about 10" of clearance but I had my pinbox adapter pointed forward. Be careful though with contacting the bed side rails with your pinbox. That might be your only limiting factor. BTW, I just sold mine. I loved the ride I got with it and it was relatively easy to take out and install but I had two mitigating factor as to why I had to sell it. First I installed a very large transfer tank and the two would not fit the bed. Second, I pull a goose neck cattle trailer so I had to go with the Reesebox. Now I pull the cattle trailer and my RV off the goose ball in my bed. I still get a good ride because pulling off a ball is smoother than pulling on a pin. The Reese Goosebox is the only goose neck adapter that will not void the Lipert frame warranty.