Bullet 2200BH Electric Water Heater Problem

[Bechard]

Hi folks,

It's our maiden trip out, and it seems like the electric water heater isn't working. The breaker is fine, and the gas heater does work, which fortunately still gives us water for showers.

Is there anything else I can check or troubleshoot? This is my first trailer, and this is still a learning experience. Everything else has been perfect!

Just to be clear, the only time I've turned on the electric water heater was when we arrived and hooked up the city water and shore power lines.

[chuckster57]

Some water heaters have a switch for the electric element on the outside, lower left corner. The switch is upside down on purpose, so if you turn it “on” your turning it “off”. What brand is yours?

[Bechard]

Just took a look, it's a Dometic gas/combo, no buttons on the outside at all.

Inside the breaker is fine, and the electric water heater has been on from the control panel.

[wiredgeorge]

In 2017 it appears Atwood hot water heaters were bought up by Dometic so folks might be more familiar with the Atwood name if they wanted to answer your questions. I have a Suburban and have never had an Atwood/Dometic so can't help technically.

[flybouy]

Just took a look, it's a Dometic gas/combo, no buttons on the outside at all.

Inside the breaker is fine, and the electric water heater has been on from the control panel.

Can you provide a model lnumber from the HWH?

[chuckster57]

If there is no switch on the exterior of the water heater, then there will be a junction box on the back side. Check all the connections, common for one or more wires to be loose. If they are all secure and your getting 110VAC to the board, then you’ll need to check the element. It’s also on the back side.

[flybouy]

Hi folks,

It's our maiden trip out, and it seems like the electric water heater isn't working. The breaker is fine, and the gas heater does work, which fortunately still gives us water for showers.

Is there anything else I can check or troubleshoot? This is my first trailer, and this is still a learning experience. Everything else has been perfect!

Just to be clear, the only time I've turned on the electric water heater was when we arrived and hooked up the city water and shore power lines.

:ermm:ASPDI ( Another Successful Pre Delivery Inspection).

[Bechard]

Model number is GC6AA-10E.

I'll check voltage and such when I get home, don't have a multimeter in my camp kit.

I've checked all of the connections, and everything appears to be tight.18820

[sourdough]

Model number is GC6AA-10E.

I'll check voltage and such when I get home, don't have a multimeter in my camp kit.

I've checked all of the connections, and everything appears to be tight.18820

That is an Atwood model number and the same as I have in mine. That should make it easier trying to research anything. It's obviously a 120vac issue so just chase it from the breaker to the hwh to the element. Put a VOM in your camping supplies; cheap and come in handy all the time ...sometimes "required" to repair a camping issue.

[slow]

There is a connector for the 120Vac if similar to mine on the backside (inside of TT) of the water heater. Check to make sure the connector is seated properly.

[Bechard]

Thanks, I'll check this today.

[Bechard]

I just checked the connector, and everything seems secure.

I just hooked up water again and switched on the electric water heater at lunch. I did notice an electronic whining sound coming from the back of the water heater, perhaps the relay or transformer or something?

I did notice that after 45 minutes, the water in the tank was warmer than the cold water. By warm I mean not as cold as cold water, but not even close to lukewarm.

Could this mean the element is bad and needs replacing?

[sourdough]

When I kick mine to electric only it makes a tiny bit of sound; sort of like a tiny whine. Did I miss it...what year is your trailer? How old is the element? I'm thinking you may want to check that out.

[Bechard]

Trailer is new 2018, this was the first trip out. I spoke with the inspection guy, and he also remembers us going over it, and it was tested. Perhaps that testing was the last time the electric worked properly. Is it possible that the element was left on during a demo previously, but worked during inspection (or failed but was missed as it may have worked when started)?

I'll check the water temp when I get home in a few hours, but I'm pretty sure it's still going to be just slightly warmer than the cold water. Is this typical of a blown element?

[sourdough]

If it's a 2018 and this is the first use I would not think the element is out unless something happened as you described. As far as I know the element isn't turned on by the dealership except to do a PDI to assure that it works and then if the new buyer wants to do a post purchase inspection/walk through. Now, did someone leave it on and burn it out accidentally? Who knows? It does sound like you have power to the heater (whine) so I would start checking power with a vom.

[66joej]

Trailer is new 2018, this was the first trip out. I spoke with the inspection guy, and he also remembers us going over it, and it was tested. Perhaps that testing was the last time the electric worked properly. Is it possible that the element was left on during a demo previously, but worked during inspection (or failed but was missed as it may have worked when started)?

I'll check the water temp when I get home in a few hours, but I'm pretty sure it's still going to be just slightly warmer than the cold water. Is this typical of a blown element?

If there was no water in the HWT the element will be burned out in less than 30 seconds. Ask me how I know.

[Bechard]

I can't imagine one of my kids could have switched it on, as they would have left it on. The only time I had it on prior to this trip was at the PDI. The tech confirmed that it was working, and was showing me the gas/electric water heater switches.

I was the first one in the trailer when we arrived, and last out and the power was off on everything each time.

This evening (after tyke football) I'll get under the bunk with the multimeter and get a read on the A/C at the relay, and at the element. Besides these test points, anything else I should look for? I am getting a slight warming, it really is warmer than the cold water, which is why I assumed the element was bad.

I really appreciate the help, this forum is the best.

[Bechard]

I can't imagine one of my kids could have switched it on, as they would have left it on. The only time I had it on prior to this trip was at the PDI. The tech confirmed that it was working, and was showing me the gas/electric water heater switches.

I was the first one in the trailer when we arrived, and last out and the power was off on everything each time.

This evening (after tyke football) I'll get under the bunk with the multimeter and get a read on the A/C at the relay, and at the element. Besides these test points, anything else I should look for? I am getting a slight warming, it really is warmer than the cold water, which is why I assumed the element was bad.

I really appreciate the help, this forum is the best.

This is what I'm worried about, I just have no idea when it would have happened?

[B-O-B'03]

Measure ohms across the connections of the element it should be fairly low, if not it is most likely bad.

As part of my shutdown procedure, after a trip, I flip the breaker for the water heater off, since I have 30 amp service at the parking pad and would hate for someone to flip on the heater, with no water in the tank.

-Brian

[Bechard]

Good call on turning the breaker off post-trip.

I'll measure resistance tonight while I check the AC.

[Mrmiata]

Measure ohms across the connections of the element it should be fairly low, if not it is most likely bad.

As part of my shutdown procedure, after a trip, I flip the breaker for the water heater off, since I have 30 amp service at the parking pad and would hate for someone to flip on the heater, with no water in the tank.

-Brian

Sounds like a great idea to add to my to do list.. !

[Bechard]

Well folks, I just spoke with the dealership and they just said not to bother poking around with my meter because I'm under bumper to bumper warranty. I'll be dropping it off Friday evening, and they estimate they'll get to it Tuesday or Wednesday at the latest, as they already have every possible replacement part for the Atwood water heater.

I should be picking up Wednesday next week to bring home and winterize.

The service manager did tell me that Dometic has changed suppliers for the water heater control boards recently due to quality issues, and they do have the newer version of the board in stock, which is what they suspect to be the issue.

I'll get back with an update when I pick it up next week. Thanks for all of the help and troubleshooting!

[Bechard]

Update time folks!

It turns out that one of the AC wires wiggled out of it's crimp and was still contained inside the plastic connector on my water heater. Prior to bringing the trailer in under warranty I did take a good look, and did see a male/female connector for the AC side of the water heater. I didn't bother taking the meter to it, as I'm still under bumper to bumper warranty.

I should have taken a photo while I had the compartment open to open the hot water bypass last night, but I didn't think to do so. Repair was recrimping the wire on this quick disconnect, and it fired right up. The technician checked other similar crimps and didn't find any problems.

I'm so very happy we took the new trailer out within a few weeks of purchase for a maiden break in voyage. The dealership was quick in fixing the issue and showed me the repair.

I just finished winterizing last night, dot it looks like we should be all ready for our next trip in March! I did take some of the advice here and turned the water heater breaker off to prevent accidental dry tank running.

Thanks folks, you're all an amazing source of insight and help, especially for this green travel trailer camper!

[lcarver02]

I thought the gas heaters were defective and not working properly on two trailers. Now I know it is my expectations that were wrong.

If you are hooked up to 120V use the Electric Heater. It pulls about 30 amps and warms pretty quick.

If you are on gas power only use the gas (don't have a choice). You may need to switch the ON/OFF switch inside the outer door (bend down to see it). I usually leave it off for a minute. Then it lights and works on Gas.

Replacing the sensors, switches, gas gap will make no difference if you try to make the heater work on gas and electric.

[flybouy]

I thought the gas heaters were defective and not working properly on two trailers. Now I know it is my expectations that were wrong.

If you are hooked up to 120V use the Electric Heater. It pulls about 30 amps and warms pretty quick.

If you are on gas power only use the gas (don't have a choice). You may need to switch the ON/OFF switch inside the outer door (bend down to see it). I usually leave it off for a minute. Then it lights and works on Gas.

Replacing the sensors, switches, gas gap will make no difference if you try to make the heater work on gas and electric.

30 Amp water heater? Wow, mine only has a 1,000 watt element. Where did you get that water heater ?

[skids]

30 Amp water heater? Wow, mine only has a 1,000 watt element. Where did you get that water heater ?

My Bullet’s stock element tested at 10.2 ohms.

If volts supplied are 120, and the resistance is constant (not changing with temperature), the current draw is I=v/R, 11.76 amps.

Power is current x voltage = 120 x 11.76, 1412 watts.
Power is voltage squared / resistance = 120^2/10.2, 1412 watts.