OK, now I'm going to need to put in a driveway to my RV shelter.

[Miles65]

OK, guys and gals, now I'm going to need to put in a driveway back to my RV shelter, or I'll have very limited opportunities to take my RV out, because of the mud, after it rains, that keeps me from backing up, to hook up my rig. I'm thinking I'll go with gravel. The run will be about 120' x 10' x 1/3'. I'll get about 15 yards of gravel/decomposed granite for around $500, delivered, ground cloth for about $100, and rent a bobcat for about $250. Total project estimate:around $1000.

Tell me what you know about putting in your own gravel/decomposed granite driveway. Thanks!

[Carrottop]

I think I would use Road crush. it drains well and for the most part will not sag when driven on wet. The other plus is the more you drive on it the more compact it becomes and should stand the test of time.

[Miles65]

I think I would use Road crush. it drains well and for the most part will not sag when driven on wet. The other plus is the more you drive on it the more compact it becomes and should stand the test of time.

I have no idea what road crush is, nor do I find it on the internet. Please explain exactly what it is. Thanks.

[66joej]

I have no idea what road crush is, nor do I find it on the internet. Please explain exactly what it is. Thanks.

It's the material they put down before asphalt. Also known as driveway gravel I believe.

[Local150]

It's the material they put down before asphalt. Also known as driveway gravel I believe.
Crushed limestone,, road rock,, ca- 6 a lot of different has just enough fines in it to compact the rock,, it sounds like there are no fines in what you are talking about

[66joej]

Crushed limestone,, road rock,, ca- 6 a lot of different has just enough fines in it to compact the rock,, it sounds like there are no fines in what you are talking about

No crushed limestone in this part of BC so you are right. It's basically unwashed crushed gravel hence the crappy roads up here.

[Gegrad]

As a geologist who conducts remedies on old landfills, I would recommend #57 stone. It is a crushed rock, typically granite, that is more coarse than gravel, which is smooth from weathering. It has a nominal size of 3/4" -1" and perfect for making driveways that remain permeable. Our contractors use it almost exclusively for temporary haul roads. Use the bobcat to smooth it out and compact it some and you should have along lasting driveway. Too much larger and you will destroy tires; too much smaller and it will always be washing away or your rig sinking in.

[vampress_me]

It kind of depends on what you can get in your area. Around here, Class 5 is very common for a gravel driveway. If able to afford, it’s nice to top that with either a recycle mix or limestone.

For the actually making of the driveway, just make sure and scrape away the top layer first with any fine dirt/plant material in it so there is a better base to layer your gravel on.

[notanlines]

I might add that your drive needs to be 12 feet wide, not 10 feet wide. There is no comfort zone backing 120 feet in a 10 foot drive.

[kksfish]

If you have a quarry near you check the availability of “pit or quarry fines” yup it is almost a dust which after it gets rained on a few times and compacted gets almost as hard as concrete!
Another advantage to fines over 57 or crush and run is it won’t just keep sinking in the mud and have to keep reapplying and it’s usually cheaper........

Just my opinion after using it and lots of other material for construction lay down areas in Virginia clay/mud

[flybouy]

I might add that your drive needs to be 12 feet wide, not 10 feet wide. There is no comfort zone backing 120 feet in a 10 foot drive.

I can attest to this. We store our unit at our daughters house. Private drive about 300' long with 2 bends. Must back down as no room to turn around. Rarely do I make it in one shot and I have a camera on the back of the trailer.

Also my BIL's contractor used a product that is ground up asphalt. It was a lot less expensive and the more it's compacted the harder it gets.

[kfxgreenie]

ground cloth for about $100

Use good geotextile fabric, it will save you on your gravel expense and keep your materials separate, also prevent the rock from sinking away into the mud and having to keep adding more gravel. Preferably you want a base of some more coarse rock followed by some smaller gravel 3/4" to top dress it.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/WF200-6-ft-x-300-ft-Polypropylene-Black-Woven-Stabilization-Underlayment-200-6-300/206604907 l

[Carrottop]

I have no idea what road crush is, nor do I find it on the internet. Please explain exactly what it is. Thanks.
You have gotten some good advice from people more qualified than me on what product to use, but to answer your question this is the product I was referring to. It is inexpensive and drains well. It will get ruts over time where you would have to add more product.

"25mm (1") Crushed Gravel is a compaction material also known as 'road crush' which is comprised of sand & rock. It is best used as a base under asphalt, concrete, & paving stones."

Good luck with your driveway project.

[flybouy]

I've always called it crush and run. https://www.homedepot.com/p/13-16-cu-ft-Crush-N-Run-133517/202521207

[Miles65]

Spoke to the major gravel supplier in town. She told me to lay down decomposed granite, first, then compact it, then put the coarser granite over that. This goes against what I've read, online, but perhaps some of you have laid down a granite driveway, before, and can join in, here. Thanks.

[Local150]

That would work well, the findings are from asphalt that has been milled off a road,, great stuff to use

[LuvsPalmTrees]

We have what they call #8 Slag Stone. It worked in a very muddy alley that turned into our property and this is where we park our TT. The slag gets hard like concrete and there is very little mud now.

[Mikendebbie]

Miles65 - I PM'd you with my work email address. I can tell you what I did at my place. Austin "dirt" is a tale of two cities due to the Balcones Fault...east of IH35 is highly plastic black clay, and west of the interstate tends to be limestone rock. What you need to do depends on where you live. I have been in commercial construction here since 1984...email me a note and I'll give you my two cents worth of advice for what to do and what material to use.

[sourdough]

I can attest to this. We store our unit at our daughters house. Private drive about 300' long with 2 bends. Must back down as no room to turn around. Rarely do I make it in one shot and I have a camera on the back of the trailer.

Also my BIL's contractor used a product that is ground up asphalt. It was a lot less expensive and the more it's compacted the harder it gets.

The stuff above really works. I found my neighbor behind my house one day with a big trailer of the ground up asphalt he had picked up for nothing from a highway project and spreading it with a little skid steer with a bucket (he owns a sand/gravel/concrete business). I thought he was just trying to get rid of some "junk" so ragged on him a bit but he told me it was good stuff. Well, he covered the alley and as the ground up asphalt was driven over by traffic it set up and became an asphalt alley drive, literally. Now, years later, it's like it was when he spread it with the exception of a strip where the gas company came in and dug it up trying to work on a gas line.

[Miles65]

I might add that your drive needs to be 12 feet wide, not 10 feet wide. There is no comfort zone backing 120 feet in a 10 foot drive.

I have to add, here, that an existing three foot wide sidewalk will run alongside the driveway, giving me thirteen feet of width. At the end of the run, where the sidewalk does not exist, it will be twelve feet wide.

[Miles65]

The more I get into the logistics and cost of this driveway installation, the less I'm inclined to go for it. That being the case. let me ask another question, here: Since the only part of the run where I lose traction, in the mud, is the last 50' of the back-up, do you think I can simply put tire chains on one of my trucks and make a go of it? The incline is probably about 10º. I would tow my RV to a campsite with my nice, new F-150, then, on my return, drop it in the street, hook up my Ram 2500 Diesel, with chains on the rear tires, and back it in. Yeah, lots of hassle, to be sure, but it will save me a bundle of cash and mega-hours of driveway work. Weigh in, if you feel like it. Thanks! (I don't like using my 2500 for vacations since it's my work truck, and looks it. I also wouldn't want to drive all over the place with chains. That being the case, I'd install the chains on the 2500 before I left for camping, so it'd be ready when I got back, if I needed it.)

[66joej]

The more I get into the logistics and cost of this driveway installation, the less I'm inclined to go for it. That being the case. let me ask another question, here: Since the only part of the run where I lose traction, in the mud, is the last 50' of the back-up, do you think I can simply put tire chains on one of my trucks and make a go of it? The incline is probably about 10º. I would tow my RV to a campsite with my nice, new F-150, then, on my return, drop it in the street, hook up my Ram 2500 Diesel, with chains on the rear tires, and back it in. Yeah, lots of hassle, to be sure, but it will save me a bundle of cash and mega-hours of driveway work. Weigh in, if you feel like it. Thanks! (I don't like using my 2500 for vacations since it's my work truck, and looks it. I also wouldn't want to drive all over the place with chains. That being the case, I'd install the chains on the 2500 before I left for camping, so it'd be ready when I got back, if I needed it.)

I think the method you are describing would get old real fast. Building the driveway is more expensive now but in the long run you will appreciate the convenience.
Is the Ram not a 4x4? No need for chains if it is.

[sourdough]

I think the method you are describing would get old real fast. Building the driveway is more expensive now but in the long run you will appreciate the convenience.
Is the Ram not a 4x4? No need for chains if it is.


I agree with Joe. For a one time thing that might be OK but if that is the plan for every time you use the trailer it will be extremely annoying IMO. Can a dump truck get into that 50' that is problematic? We have the gravel road to our house in the mountains re-graveled periodically and it's not too expensive to have them come in and just drop/spread it with the truck - I usually like to get about 4" down. The larger gravel (1" +) just moves around and won't pack but the smaller gravel with chat in it compacts and gets hard. I don't know what a dirt/gravel contractor would charge in your area but I think (been a while and poor memory) we pay about $300 a truck load. They just drive up, start at one end and slowly open/lift the bed. Wider areas require a 2nd pass. If needed, we spread/level with rakes. I would far, far rather do that than place/remove snow chains for a small muddy area. Plus, after a few rounds through the mud spinning those chains they will have to come out and repair the holes/ruts with something anyway. JMO

[Local150]

I agree with Joe. For a one time thing that might be OK but if that is the plan for every time you use the trailer it will be extremely annoying IMO. Can a dump truck get into that 50' that is problematic? We have the gravel road to our house in the mountains re-graveled periodically and it's not too expensive to have them come in and just drop/spread it with the truck - I usually like to get about 4" down. The larger gravel (1" +) just moves around and won't pack but the smaller gravel with chat in it compacts and gets hard. I don't know what a dirt/gravel contractor would charge in your area but I think (been a while and poor memory) we pay about $300 a truck load. They just drive up, start at one end and slowly open/lift the bed. Wider areas require a 2nd pass. If needed, we spread/level with rakes. I would far, far rather do that than place/remove snow chains for a small muddy area. Plus, after a few rounds through the mud spinning those chains they will have to come out and repair the holes/ruts with something anyway. JMO
I have to agree with sourdough

[Miles65]

I think the method you are describing would get old real fast. Building the driveway is more expensive now but in the long run you will appreciate the convenience.
Is the Ram not a 4x4? No need for chains if it is.

No, not 4x4. I needed the higher towing capacity of the rear-wheel drive. I haul 12K with it, at times. It hates the mud, though.

[JRTJH]

Let's look at the "whole picture" not just the drive or pulling through the mud.

First, there's the PVC frame on a 15'+ tall structure that's covered with a tarp. That may (or may not) survive the "winter winds" and the "summer sun". If it were me, I'd not install a $1000 drive to a $1000 building until I knew the building is going to survive the weather.

So, this is just a suggestion, but something to consider. You're concerned with pulling the trailer through the wet grass/mud. That happens only a short while, otherwise, there's no real problem with getting the trailer in and out.

Putting chains on a truck and hitching to a 4 ton trailer to pull it through the mud is going to make a "helluva" mess in the back yard. You are assured of having ruts at least a foot deep, provided you can even pull through the ruts.

I'd look at the weather forecast, and if you're expecting to use the trailer and rain is coming, I'd pull it out before the mud starts and park it somewhere you CAN get it out. Then, when the mud dries, put it back in the building.

Then, if in a year or so, the building is working as planned, that's the time to start building an expensive rock drive. If you invest in the gravel/limestone/granite now and find the building doesn't work as hoped, you're stuck with a lot of "stuff the lawn mower doesn't like".....

I'd slow down a bit and look at alternatives to the gravel drive for this year, then see if it's really needed once you know the building is going to still be there, "next year"......

[Miles65]

Let's look at the "whole picture" not just the drive or pulling through the mud.

First, there's the PVC frame on a 15'+ tall structure that's covered with a tarp. That may (or may not) survive the "winter winds" and the "summer sun". If it were me, I'd not install a $1000 drive to a $1000 building until I knew the building is going to survive the weather.

So, this is just a suggestion, but something to consider. You're concerned with pulling the trailer through the wet grass/mud. That happens only a short while, otherwise, there's no real problem with getting the trailer in and out.

Putting chains on a truck and hitching to a 4 ton trailer to pull it through the mud is going to make a "helluva" mess in the back yard. You are assured of having ruts at least a foot deep, provided you can even pull through the ruts.

I'd look at the weather forecast, and if you're expecting to use the trailer and rain is coming, I'd pull it out before the mud starts and park it somewhere you CAN get it out. Then, when the mud dries, put it back in the building.

Then, if in a year or so, the building is working as planned, that's the time to start building an expensive rock drive. If you invest in the gravel/limestone/granite now and find the building doesn't work as hoped, you're stuck with a lot of "stuff the lawn mower doesn't like".....

I'd slow down a bit and look at alternatives to the gravel drive for this year, then see if it's really needed once you know the building is going to still be there, "next year"......

I agree with you. I'm just jonesing to get into another project. I am going to give it a break, for now.

[hondapro87]

I agree with you. I'm just jonesing to get into another project. I am going to give it a break, for now.


If you want projects to do come to my place I can find lots of things for you to do. LOL :)

Really though good luck with your driveway project.

[Bnrc73]

If the last 50 feet is the problem, why put in a 120' driveway? Start with the 50' at a third of the cost and add on as needed.

[Lymey]

With years of experience in building roads I would suggest the following
1. Work in dry weather if possible
2. Excavate a minimum of 6” for the drive way, preferably 8”. More is better.
3. Compact sub grade with vibratory tamper or small roller.
4. Apply fabric on sub grade, staple in place.
5. If possible find a local source for crushed concrete (usually construction companies that do road work) and place in two lifts compacting each with the vibratory tamper.

I suggest the crushed concrete as in my experience it packs in and sets better than most stone. If you want to try to keep your lawn I have actually used this method excavating an extra 4” then covering the area with more filter fabric and placing top soil over the stone to grade then seeding. That way you have a green driveway.

[Andymil]

I am a fan of the milled asphalt if you can get it. I put down a base of #3 slag (2” - 3”) and at least 4” of ground asphalt on top. We used to be able to get slag from the steel mills in our area. I’ve bought millings from a paving company but I got some for free when the state was resurfacing a road a couple of miles from my house. I was happier than a pig in... well, you know. :D

The only maintenance I do is to spray a round-up type weed and grass killer on the weeds that pop up in the spring.

[NevadaRich]

I have a 43 ft Toy Hauler which is over 20k, I placed 3/4" Gravel on the driveway where it is parked, I have added rock every 5 years, but I have been able to drive in and out over the Gravel, I have rain and snow in the winter.....