Fresh Water Tank Fill Problem

[Steve Martin]

We just took delivery of a 2011 Avalanche 290RL. Try as we might, we can't get the fresh water tank to fill above 1/3 using a standard garden hose. When it hits the 1/3 mark the water begins gushing back out. We've leveled the rig, raised the front, tipped it to the off side and nothing works. We even resorted to a funnel and bucket, but no luck. Any suggestions or comments? Thanks!

[Me.Bikes.Dogs]

Hi, How are you determining it is only 1/3 full. The tank guage? This sounds like an issue with the gauge light and not with the tank itself. This is something your dealer should be able to remedy for you.

[Festus2]

It sounds to me as though your problem is with the gauge rather than a plumbing issue. Usually, when water starts gushing out the filler cap, it is a sign that the tank is full.
Might be a long process but after "filling" the tank with a funnel and bucket, count the number of buckets you pour into it. Then open the drain/petcock on the FW tank and see how many buckets come out. If water keeps coming out after you reached the same number of buckets, then you know that there is still water remaining in the tank.
If you are close to your dealer, take it back to him and let him solve the problem - if it is still under warranty.

[Idaho Avalanche]

I had the same problem on my 2011 Avalanche 290RL. Gauge indicated 1/3 full. Drained tank into a 5 gallon bucket, only 26 to 28 gallons in the tank. I did this twice just to be sure. Removed the covered panel in the pass-through storage to obtain access to the tank vent line. Blew a mouthful of air into the line several times. That solved the problem. Not sure why the vent line was blocked. The tank had been filled (full on the gauge) before. Hope that solves your problem.

[geo]

Steve -

I had a similar problem in an Alpine 3640. In the Modifications section, I posted the problem and my fix late last summer with pictures. Look for an elevated water fill line or a vent line that has a right angle kink. When the fill water would weight the line, it would slowly pull the right angle to almost close and I would get an unwanted outside shower.

Ron

[gkainz]

something like this Water Meter (http://www.taylorgifts.com/item/WATER_USAGE_METER/33267?src=SHPZLS46) can help you know just how much your hose has dispensed. I found one for less a few years ago at some drip irrigation online web page, which I can't find now.

[stevemartin]

I'll try all the suggestions and be sure to post when I've got the problem fixed. Thanks for all the help.

[stevemartin]

Took the access panel off in the storage compartment and found that the fresh water line is pinched by a piece of wood used as bracing. I fed a fresh water hose down the line and was able to open the kink and successfully fill the tank fully. I'll leave the hose in the line until I have time to get it repaired. Again, thanks for all the help and suggestions.

[gkainz]

Good find, and thanks for posting what you found back here - it may help others!

[Seagull]

I have a 2011 Avalanche with the same fill problem. What I have found is everytime I fill the tank until water comes out of the vent, the next fill only fills to about 1/3rd. If I blow back into the vent and remove all of the water from the vent the tank will fill. It appears that due to the saggs in the line the water is trapped and prevents the air from venting from the tank.

[SteveC7010]

I have a 2011 Avalanche with the same fill problem. What I have found is everytime I fill the tank until water comes out of the vent, the next fill only fills to about 1/3rd. If I blow back into the vent and remove all of the water from the vent the tank will fill. It appears that due to the saggs in the line the water is trapped and prevents the air from venting from the tank.

Water alone trapped in the vent line will not cause this problem. If you use some kind of hose fitting in the fill line that pretty much makes it a bit of a snug fit, as you fill the tank, there will be way more than enough air pressure built up to push water out of the vent line.

As the OP and several others have remarked, it has to be a real physical obstruction to cause this situation.

My suggestion is to open up what panels, etc. that you can and visualize as much of the fill and vent hoses as possible. I suspect you will find a kink or other physical obstruction.

It is also possible that there is a bug, cocoon, or something else in the vent line. Take the cover off the fill, and the apply some real air pressure, maybe 35 psi or so, to the vent line and see if that clears things out.

[SteveC7010]

If you have a fresh water fill that looks similar to this, it is pretty easy to remove it and look for problems.
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-pumps-water/gravity-water-hatch-2.jpg

You can see the screw holes in the edge of the hatch. Remove the screws, and then make sure that any surface caulk between the outside of the hatch frame and the skin of the trailer is removed.

Typically, RV manufacturers use a butyl putty tape about 3/4" wide as a seal between things like this and the body of the trailer. In cooler weather, the putty tape is nigh on impossible to separate, but some gentle heat will soften it enough to pull the fixture away from skin. I like DW's hair dryer. You have to keep it moving so that no one spot gets too hot, but if you can get the temp of the putty tape up to "really warm to the touch", it gets nice and soft. I use a plastic putty knife to help separate things.

Once the hatch assembly is loose from the trailer, there are two hoses attached to it. One is about 1.25" in diameter and the other is pretty small. They should be held in place with clamps which can be loosened. If they use some kind of hard to deal with clamp, I always replace them with standard stainless steel worm clamps.

It is possible that one of the hoses is twisted, causing the obstructions we are talking about. Loosen the clamp, twist as necessary, and tighten.

Once the hatch is separated from the trailer body, you should be able to look in the hole with a flashlight and see quite a bit of the hoses.

To reassemble, clean the hatch and tt surfaces well, and then get some new butyl putty tape from the RV shop, warming it gently so it is easy to work with. Place it all around the edge of the hatch and work it into place so there are no gaps. Try to keep it to its original thickness.

Line up the holes in the hatch with the holes in the trailer, gently press together, and then insert all of the screws. Tighten them sequentially a little bit at a time so that the plastic hatch doesn't deform and is pressed equally against the tt skin. If the screws are loose in the holes, you can go up one size or tuck a wooden tooth pick in the hole before inserting the screw. If you use new screws, use stainless or painted aluminum.

Again, you may have to use the hair dryer to keeps things warm enough for the putty to be soft enough.

The putty will squeeze out around the edges. Don't tighten the screws so much that the fixture is tight to the skin of the TT. As long as there is a good seal all around, it can be 1/16" or more away.

I like to use that plastic putty knife to remove all the putty that squeezes out, and then dress the edge between the TT skin and the fixture with caulk on the top and sides. The bottom really does not need surface caulk as water generally won't flow up into that seam.

One other tool that you may not have for this job is the #2 square head driver which fits almost every screw in an RV. I special ordered one 30+ years ago when they weren't commonly available and paid a whole bunch of bucks for it. Now you can buy a #2 square bit that will fit in any 1/4" drive tool system for just a dollar or two. And you can find them almost everywhere.

[hankaye]

Howdy All;

Before I left on my Seeking the warm oddessy, I attempted to fill my freshwater tank. Only got about 2/3drs full (according to the lights), Had to hold the hose in the hole really hard. when I let go water would spray-out about 5 or 6 feet. Nice! However not the goal.
Asked a tech at CW about it and was told they'd have to remove the;
1.) pull-out bumper
2.) drop the cloroplast cover
3.) pull out the insulation
4.) Drop the tank ... because...

the fitings ar located in the top of the tank.
Said it would take a full day to do the fix (at $125.00 an hour!).
He also told me it was a regular thing to have happen. The vent hose is to long and kinks like a garden hose shutting off the air from venting properly or at all.

Told him thanks but I'll figure a way to do it myself...

hankaye

[therink]

I had a similar problem on my fiver when it was new. Turned out to be a kinked vent line. Fixed under warranty. Hasn't been a problem since.

[Festus2]

Hankaye:
Since we have the identical 5th wheel, I will keep my fingers crossed that your FW filling problem doesn't also become mine at some point. When (not if) you find a solution to the problem that doesn't cost $150 per hour, I would be interested in hearing about it (at a somewhat cheaper rate!).
Good luck with this.

[hankaye]

Festus2, Howdy;

As I only require it for emergencies, or on the road. I'll probably just do it my self during the summer. That way if/when (who am I trying to fool???), I get splashed it will feel good...:rolleyes:

I'll post the how's and what's when i'm done...

hankaye

[SteveC7010]

We dry camp for 10-14 days at a time up the the northern Adirondacks so our fresh water tank is pretty important. Back when we had the Sunline with a 25 gallon tank, I had to watch it carefully to make sure we had enough water.

With 60 gallons of fresh in the Cougar, it may be less of a daily concern, but I still like to fill it all the way up when I do drag out the hose for a refill.

Guess I'll be finding out if mine has "issues" and if it does, I'll be fixing it in camp and will let you all know how it goes.

[hankpage]

Festus2 and hankaye, My 290RKS is set up the same as yours. (just 2' longer "Daah" ) When you remove the access panel for the water pump you should be able to see the back of your fresh water fill and be able to remove any kinks or shorten the vent line from there. I would suspect that it may be clogged with "construction debris" just like every other cavity in RVs today. :rolleyes: Removing the vent from the back of the filler and blowing back should clear it until the next time the tank was over-filled and the wood chips floated up into the vent.

To the OP, Even if you can't access from inside, removing the outside filler, as mentioned before, is no big deal and easy to seal back up with the right caulk. Blowing the vent tube back from there should work and is worth a try.

[hankaye]

hankpage, Howdy;

Been in there a few times, nice 2" hole down to the tank. Tugged on it a few times. No happiness :( .
The kink is under the floor ... somewhere.....:confused:
I'll find it this Summer. ;)

hank

[RAR]

Water flowing and filling into toilet instead of holding tank? have no idea what is causing it? any ideas?