Battery Disconnect and Auto Leveling Not working

[OldKingKibitzer]

Brand spanking new to RVing!

2013 Keystone Fuzion 310. Not realizing I had to have it plugged in to keep the batteries from dying...I let the battery die. I currently have it plugged into my house GFCI outlet. I unplugged it last night so that I could close the door and I clicked off the factory battery disconnect. This morning I go out (Not yet plugged in) to check to check the battery level and the disconnect button does not work- It used to click when I pressed it. It will not turn back on! I plugged the RV back into my house, the inside lights work however the Auto leveling (Where it will read the battery voltage) does not work and it will not allow me to turn on my generator.

Help!! Any thoughts? Is there a fuse specifically for the battery disconnect? Why won't the Gen turn on or prime? It seems nothing is getting any battery power. I don't have any blown fuses in my fuse box...So I'm fairly baffled on how to proceed!

[OldKingKibitzer]

I just checked- my slide do not go in either- they say battery hookup required for operation. So clearly nothing is getting power from the battery. But the battery disconnect switch isn't working. It used to click and I'd hear something but right now when I press it nothing happens.

[chuckster57]

Welcome to the forum :wlcm:

First thing, since the unit is a 2013, how old is(are) the battery(s).

[travelin texans]

If they're 2013, 5year old batteries, that were completely drained for any length of time, they are toast. A trip to the store for new batteries is on your agenda before you'll get anything to work but the lights, which are being powered by the converter when plugged in.
The only true disconnect is to disconnect the battery cables or rewire the factory disconnect to shut off everything.

[OldKingKibitzer]

So the battery is from 2017- Per the date code on the battery and the owner telling me.

What I'm not getting is there is no longer any sound when pressing the battery disconnect. Any thoughts of what that might be? I feel like if I can isolate that problem that I'll fix the bigger issue.

[flybouy]

If the trailer's battery is dead and defective, then the battery won't charge or operate any dc connected device. Buy an inexpensive VOM and learn how to use it as it will help you in the future as well. If that's beyond your comfort level then pull the battery and take it to most any place that sells batteries and have it tested. Every time a lead acid battery is totally discharged damage is done.

[OldKingKibitzer]

If the trailer's battery is dead and defective, then the battery won't charge or operate any dc connected device. Buy an inexpensive VOM and learn how to use it as it will help you in the future as well. If that's beyond your comfort level then pull the battery and take it to most any place that sells batteries and have it tested. Every time a lead acid battery is totally discharged damage is done.

Would a dead battery create the issue with the battery disconnect switch? Would that explain why I'm able to use the lights when it's plugged into a house outlet but once that's unplugged nothing works.

[Salty25]

Would a dead battery create the issue with the battery disconnect switch? Would that explain why I'm able to use the lights when it's plugged into a house outlet but once that's unplugged nothing works.

Yes, a dead battery can create that issue.

If the battery is toast then you will only have power when you plug it into your house, or other electrical source. If you don't have a volt meter I would also suggest taking the battery down and having it tested.

[JimMach1]

Check connections coming from battery . I had mine loosen over time there’s a junction may be a max fuse haven’t looked that close . Also on ag equipment have replaced a lot of battery disconnects. All that being said most places if you take the battery in to them will check for free.

[flybouy]

I see your question has been answered. If your battery is defective the converter, while plugged into shore power, will provide 12v dc but not enough to power heavy loads such as slides and jacks/stabilizers. Word of caution, if you remove battery don't do it while plugged into shore power. If the positive cable hits the ground (or metal frame) you will blow the fuses on the converter.

[ChuckS]

I’d remove shore power... remove four screws that hold battery disconnect switch panel on and remove two cables on backside of that switch and connect together and temp insulate with electrical tape.

Then I’d see if my Lippert level up panel was alive. Should read DC voltage

If so plug in shoe power and measure DC voltage at batteries and see if you have at least 13.4. If so now you are charging batteries , converter was working before since you had interior lights.


Let batteries charge from converter for several hours.


Also while on shore power look at level up control panel and DC voltage should be at least same as what you measured at batteries with multi meter.

You can take hat disconnect switch out now since it’s bypassed and trouble shoot or replace it

Also your slides and landing gear are separately directly wired to battery thru resettable DC breakers usually located in battery compartment.

The CO2 detector and emergency brakes are also directly wired to battery.

[JRTJH]

There are two ways to wire the "solenoid operated battery disconnect switch". One way is to wire the solenoid to the converter power. That way when the trailer is plugged into shore power, it will hold the solenoid closed, keeping the battery connected. Problem with this method is that when you disconnect the trailer from shore power, the solenoid opens, causing the battery to disconnect.

Typically, the switch solenoid is connected to the battery. When you press the button, battery power flows through the solenoid, closing it and holding it closed. The "problem" then becomes trying to close the switch with a dead battery. Simply stated, you can't..... So, if your batteries are dead, you won't hear a click and the battery cutoff switch won't activate (connecting the batteries to the converter system), so you can't use the converter to charge the batteries. Catch 22 ??? Yup.

The easiest way to check is to just use a stand alone battery charger to charge the batteries for a couple hours, then push the battery cutoff button and see if it clicks. If it was "dead batteries and they charged a bit" then it should connect and you should be "back in business"....

If it still doesn't work, I'd first suspect bad batteries, loose wiring to the switch or a bad solenoid/switch assembly.

[ChuckS]

I don’t think he has a solenoid type battery disconnect switch. I don’t. It’s mechanical

His rig has this from the factory. ...

http://www.trekwood.com/products/78133/Switch-Battery-Disconnect-w-Plt-Key-Chain

[ChuckS]

I see they are using a solenoid type disconnect switch in many RVs. Why they would be so stupid to install a switch that needs DC holding power is beyond me.

And the battery disconnect switch is really useless in most rigs because you still have current draw fro CO2 detector. A wasted additional potential problem source.

Takes less than a few minutes to simply disconnect main DC power cables from battery.

[JRTJH]

Some of the "newer, so it must be better improvements" on today's RV's make sense to the engineers and are "bling" to new owners, but prove themselves to be a PITA once the "newness wears off"....

With the newer "remote systems" being installed, mechanical switches just seem "outdated" and are being replaced by a "button on an I-phone screen". Those types of battery control devices bring with them a panel in the RV with two buttons to control the function (as a backup). Only problem is that the backup only works if the device still works. So, if you can't "turn on the RV" from your I-phone and you go to the panel to push the button to turn on the battery, if it's the solenoid (mechanical switches don't work with I-phones) that's failed, the entire system is down.....

Sometimes "a better idea" may seem better, but in the end, it bites you: "in the end"......

It's not just Keystone that's doing this, seems everything has remotes, from window air conditioners to cooking ovens.... Hmmmm

And, to add "insult to injury" You can't completely disconnect the battery or the monitor circuit that talks to the I-phone would be disabled.... Yeah, I know, but apparently, for some "bling seekers" it's important..... YMMV

[ChuckS]

So true with all the new stuff coming our in the RVs. The Jensen In Command system looks nice but everything is tied int9 the BCM and if it has issues or looses its Bluetooth link you can’t do squat. My 2014 has all mechanical switch’s. The next model up in our year had the new I’m command system.

I can’t even begin to count the issues folks in other sites are having. With mechanical separate switches for all my systems I can easily trouble shoot and isolate a problem... Wth the BCM and the limited user access to certain menu functions you are screwed if... for example the BCM data gets scrambled for what resistance value your holding and water tank probes should be set at... try getting that info from Keystone of Jensen.

[flybouy]

Yup, just ask any "young'n" about their latest and greatest new phone. After telling you how it takes great pictures, embeds video into text messages, does live video chats, has super fast internet and will push emails and oh yes, almost forgot, you can use it as a telephone too.

[flybouy]

There are two ways to wire the "solenoid operated battery disconnect switch". One way is to wire the solenoid to the converter power. That way when the trailer is plugged into shore power, it will hold the solenoid closed, keeping the battery connected. Problem with this method is that when you disconnect the trailer from shore power, the solenoid opens, causing the battery to disconnect.

Typically, the switch solenoid is connected to the battery. When you press the button, battery power flows through the solenoid, closing it and holding it closed. The "problem" then becomes trying to close the switch with a dead battery. Simply stated, you can't..... So, if your batteries are dead, you won't hear a click and the battery cutoff switch won't activate (connecting the batteries to the converter system), so you can't use the converter to charge the batteries. Catch 22 ??? Yup.

The easiest way to check is to just use a stand alone battery charger to charge the batteries for a couple hours, then push the battery cutoff button and see if it clicks. If it was "dead batteries and they charged a bit" then it should connect and you should be "back in business"....

If it still doesn't work, I'd first suspect bad batteries, loose wiring to the switch or a bad solenoid/switch assembly.
Wouldn't it be quicker to connect the umbilical to the truck and activate the switch?

[OldKingKibitzer]

Wouldn't it be quicker to connect the umbilical to the truck and activate the switch?


I was thinking of doing this. Would this provide me charging of the battery and 12V to see if the 12v appliances work?

I ordered a Multi-meter- I will check voltage and report back! My suspicion is that the battery is toast...Which sucks however I was going to add a second battery and would have had to purchase two at the same time to make sure that all worked correctly!

[OldKingKibitzer]

I don’t think he has a solenoid type battery disconnect switch. I don’t. It’s mechanical

His rig has this from the factory. ...

http://www.trekwood.com/products/78133/Switch-Battery-Disconnect-w-Plt-Key-Chain

That is actually not the switch I have. Mine is a black switch in the control panel right inside the door- Seeing that mechanical one leads me to believe mine is indeed a solenoid type.

[flybouy]

I was thinking of doing this. Would this provide me charging of the battery and 12V to see if the 12v appliances work?

I ordered a Multi-meter- I will check voltage and report back! My suspicion is that the battery is toast...Which sucks however I was going to add a second battery and would have had to purchase two at the same time to make sure that all worked correctly!

Before doing anything check the water level in the battery. If it's low top it off, preferably with distilled water. Charging using the truck would be very slow. It should however provide enough power to test the fridge on propane and the hot water heater on propane as well as lights. The wire from the truck is probably not heavy enough for a large amperage draw such as slides or levelers. If you jump from one battery to another with good heavy jumper cables (like jump starting a car) then you should be able to run anything that operates on 12 v dc. Charging would still take some time. If the battery solenoid works when connected to the truck in either method then I would let it charge about 10 or 15 minutes and disconnect the truck and try it. If it has enough charge to work then plug in the shore power. I wouldn't recommend connecting the truck and shore power (110V) at the same time as there is a possibility of damaging the truck's alternator or the trailer's converter. Let us know how it goes.

[OldKingKibitzer]

Alrighty- SO checked the battery's voltage...and it's a whopping 2.25 volts...Soooo she dead. I'm planning on taking it to a battery store to be load tested and charged and then go from there. What would be my next course of action if that does not work?

[mazboy]

forget a battery test. buy a new battery!

when you store the trailer take of the negative wire.
and never run your battery down sooooo low again.